When performing leg tapers, which do you prefer? I think I prefer to do
these at the TS, but on my last project I made my tapers (albeit small
tapers) at the BS. They required a little sanding after, but so do my
tapers at the TS.
Which machine do you turn to for tapers most often and why?
Thanks for your input
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 19:25:41 -0400, "GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>
>When performing leg tapers, which do you prefer? I think I prefer to do
>these at the TS, but on my last project I made my tapers (albeit small
>tapers) at the BS. They required a little sanding after, but so do my
>tapers at the TS.
>
>Which machine do you turn to for tapers most often and why?
I do it at the tablesaw, with a shop-made taper sled and a good rip
blade. The stop blocks are simply screwed to the sled as needed,
pictures of fancy versions with T-track and laminate are all over the
web. Repeatability is brainless and perfect.
With the sled, it's really obvious where the taper will land, the sled
supports the work for a clean cut, and the operation is very safe. As
a bonus, sides 3 and 4 are easily double-stick taped back to the work
for perfect results.
I own a good bandsaw, and find the above method far better.
Aluminum tablesaw taper jigs should be outlawed. <G>
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
Sleds are the way to go for tapered legs. If you don't want to use the
double-stick tape, put a 1/4" dowel in the center of the stop block and
drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of each leg. Cutting the tapers on all
4 sides is just a matter of cutting a taper, pulling the leg off of the
dowel, rotating it 1/4 of a turn and plunking it back on the dowel. I
do a lot of tapered legs and find this to be the fastest cleanest way
of doing it.
Legs that are tapered on two sides and straight on the other two can be
made by offsetting the dowel. I have a series of stop blocks that offer
various kinds of tapers. Calculating the offset of the dowel is left as
an exercise for the reader. :-)
In article <[email protected]>, B A R R Y
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 19:25:41 -0400, "GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>
<snip>
> With the sled, it's really obvious where the taper will land, the sled
> supports the work for a clean cut, and the operation is very safe. As
> a bonus, sides 3 and 4 are easily double-stick taped back to the work
> for perfect results.
>
> I own a good bandsaw, and find the above method far better.
>
> Aluminum tablesaw taper jigs should be outlawed. <G>
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> ** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
> ---------------------------------------------
--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
"GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> When performing leg tapers, which do you prefer? I think I prefer to do
> these at the TS, but on my last project I made my tapers (albeit small
> tapers) at the BS. They required a little sanding after, but so do my
> tapers at the TS.
>
> Which machine do you turn to for tapers most often and why?
>
> Thanks for your input
I like the bandsaw and jointer cleanup. If you're tapering four ways,
doublestick your cutoffs for stability or shim the end. Makes things more
stable, though you can do without.
Of course, a hand plane or spokeshave works instead of a jointer if you're
into hand work.
"GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> When performing leg tapers, which do you prefer? I think I prefer to do
> these at the TS, but on my last project I made my tapers (albeit small
> tapers) at the BS. They required a little sanding after, but so do my
> tapers at the TS.
>
> Which machine do you turn to for tapers most often and why?
>
> Thanks for your input
>
> --
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
I make a template, rough them out on BS, and use the template and router to
get to final shape.
In article <[email protected]>, marc rosen <[email protected]> wrote:
>I use my table saw for all leg tapering, utilizing a few home made
>jigs. I don't trust my skill level on the bandsaw for any significant
>straight cuts.
I use a sled for all taper cuts. Anything under about 2-3/4" thick gets cut on
the table saw; over that, on the band saw, with the surface cleaned up on the
jointer. Same sled works on both saws, and I don't need to worry about
freehanding a long cut through thick lumber on the BS.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
On Sun, 21 Oct 2007 08:36:50 -0600, Vince Heuring
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Sleds are the way to go for tapered legs. If you don't want to use the
>double-stick tape, put a 1/4" dowel in the center of the stop block and
>drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of each leg. Cutting the tapers on all
>4 sides is just a matter of cutting a taper, pulling the leg off of the
>dowel, rotating it 1/4 of a turn and plunking it back on the dowel. I
>do a lot of tapered legs and find this to be the fastest cleanest way
>of doing it.
>
>Legs that are tapered on two sides and straight on the other two can be
>made by offsetting the dowel. I have a series of stop blocks that offer
>various kinds of tapers. Calculating the offset of the dowel is left as
>an exercise for the reader. :-)
Hadn't heard of the dowel. THANKS!
That's why I love this forum!
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 19:25:41 -0400, "GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>
>When performing leg tapers, which do you prefer? I think I prefer to do
>these at the TS, but on my last project I made my tapers (albeit small
>tapers) at the BS. They required a little sanding after, but so do my
>tapers at the TS.
>
>Which machine do you turn to for tapers most often and why?
>
>Thanks for your input
Table saw. It's easy and probably more accurate (and certainly
faster) than using a band saw.
On Sun, 21 Oct 2007 06:37:47 -0400, B A R R Y <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I do it at the tablesaw, with a shop-made taper sled and a good rip
>blade.
I forgot to mention...
My taper sleds use the miter slot, not the fence, for guidance.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------