Best way to trim round window?

"Slowhand" <I'm@work> writes:
>A tenant in my building has a round nautical type window in his door and
>asked if I could trim it out for him.
>
>Beans I've never done this before, I humbly come before you to ask the best
>of the best to offer considerations for said project.
>
>The window is about 12" round by 2" deep. The trim thickness will be 3/8".
>
>I will be using oak to match the door if it makes any difference.
>
>Also, how do I explain this. Let's see, the trim will be on the inside (not
>on the face). Although I will need to trim the face once the inside is
>done. Does that make sense? I can draw a picture I think if it needs more
>clarification.

You can kerf the back of the 12"x2"x3/8" piece and finish nail it in
place. Then cover the edge of that trim with the face trim. Experiment
with distance between kerfs (and depth of kerf) to get a smooth inside.

You can also laminate thinner stock into the appropriate curve for
the inside trim, but that's much more work.

Cut the face trim with a router circle cutting jig, then mould with
a bearing bit/cutter.

scott

>
>Thanks,
>
>SH
>
>

"Slowhand" <I'm@work> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> I will be using oak to match the door if it makes any difference.

Is the door painted or is it stained or polyurethaned oak?
If it's painted, you can get resin (a.k.a. plastic :-) moulding that
is extremely flexible. We're used it for basecaps for our stairway
which has curved baseboard moulding.


ken

Slowhand wrote:
> A tenant in my building has a round nautical type window in his door and
> asked if I could trim it out for him.
>
> Beans I've never done this before, I humbly come before you to ask the best
> of the best to offer considerations for said project.
>
> The window is about 12" round by 2" deep. The trim thickness will be 3/8".
>
> I will be using oak to match the door if it makes any difference.
>
> Also, how do I explain this. Let's see, the trim will be on the inside (not
> on the face). Although I will need to trim the face once the inside is
> done. Does that make sense? I can draw a picture I think if it needs more
> clarification.

The classic way to get a round wooden frame is to glue up an octagon and
then go to work with a router on a circle jig.

Does that help?

Lew

On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 08:50:04 -0700, "Slowhand" <I'm@work> wrote:

>A tenant in my building has a round nautical type window in his door and
>asked if I could trim it out for him.
>
>The window is about 12" round by 2" deep. The trim thickness will be 3/8".
>
>I will be using oak to match the door if it makes any difference.
>
>Also, how do I explain this. Let's see, the trim will be on the inside (not
>on the face). Although I will need to trim the face once the inside is
>done. Does that make sense? I can draw a picture I think if it needs more
>clarification.

I'm guessing what you need is a 2" jamb extension and then trim on top
of that. I've done a lot of half round windows but all with a much
larger radius.
If the door is solid and the hole for the window is a good round one
(with the window centered) I might try just using thin strips of oak
and build up inside the hole. With the larger radius windows we see I
have to make a jig and bend and clamp my strips. That might be pretty
difficult on such a small window.
As far as the trim piece goes, I would use a circle jig on the router
to make a pattern. Rough cut the trim piece and clean it up with the
pattern and pattern bit. Your trim will probably need to be made in
two or three pieces (if it's made of stock) depending and the width
of the stock you have. Make your pattern accordingly.

Mike O.