I have a kitchen cabinet with 2 doors, one obviously darker than the
other. Is there a way to darken the light oak finish on the lighter
door, without removing the factory finish?
I have read about applying a tinted polyurethene or a gel stain over
the original finish. Has anyone successfully tried this?
Also, a long time ago I worked at a furniture store where I saw the
touch-up guy completely darken an oak pedestal with some kind of toner
spray.
If anybody has any info on any of these or other ideas, I would
appreciate it.
On 20 Jan 2005 20:04:24 -0800, the inscrutable [email protected]
spake:
>Good question. I have very limited experience in finishing, so if
>there's any easy way, I'd also like to know.
>JPS wrote:
>> Would you recommend any products off the shelf?
About the only one you're likely to find on the shelves is Minwax
PolyShades. I haven't used it, nor am I ever likely to do so, but it
might work for you guys.
-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
http://diversify.com
[email protected] wrote in news:1106074634.828280.42840
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:
> I have a kitchen cabinet with 2 doors, one obviously darker than the
> other. Is there a way to darken the light oak finish on the lighter
> door, without removing the factory finish?
> I have read about applying a tinted polyurethene or a gel stain over
> the original finish. Has anyone successfully tried this?
> Also, a long time ago I worked at a furniture store where I saw the
> touch-up guy completely darken an oak pedestal with some kind of toner
> spray.
> If anybody has any info on any of these or other ideas, I would
> appreciate it.
>
>
Yep, it's called glazing or toning. I've done the glazing thing, using a
homemade glaze of boiled linseed oil with artist's oil paint color.
Both techniques are covered in most of the basic finishing books ... by
Flexner, Jewitt, etc.
"JPS" <[email protected]> wrote in news:1106240479.718236.44950
@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:
> Would you recommend any products off the shelf?
>
I've only done it a few times, using artists oil pigments and boiled
linseed. Worked okay for me but the drying time was long. I was using it
in conjunction with shellac (more or less universally compatible).
There are several commercially available glaze finishes at
www.homesteadfinishing.com. Behlens, McCloskey, etc. Also some FAQs and
instructions for applying. They pretty much all have to be mixed with some
kind of color medium like japan colors etc.
Glazing is intended to create a color layer that is buried between other
finish layers. So it's really intended for use with finishes that build
(lacquer, shellac, etc -- not oils or most oil/varnish blends). Most of
the commercial mixes seem to be compatible with most oil or water based
finishes.
Check it on a scrap or inconspicuous area before committing of course ;-)
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 20 Jan 2005 20:04:24 -0800, the inscrutable [email protected]
> spake:
>
>>Good question. I have very limited experience in finishing, so if
>>there's any easy way, I'd also like to know.
>>JPS wrote:
>>> Would you recommend any products off the shelf?
>
> About the only one you're likely to find on the shelves is Minwax
> PolyShades. I haven't used it, nor am I ever likely to do so, but it
> might work for you guys.
>
>
> -
> Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
> http://diversify.com
Minwax PolyShades? Ohmygod that's a scary thought.
Whatever you do, be sure what you choose is compatible with the underlying
sealer coat (e.g., you don't want it to attack the sealer coat).
Jeff Jewitt's newer book, "Finishing," contains a pretty good writeup in
chapter 8. As JOAT would say, it's cheap to borrow at the library.