TS switch was multi- up/down to start; now runs in ON or OFF position

I do not have access to an air hose, but I have a couple other options. 1
immediate alternative is my decent leaf blower, but I am not sure if this is
at all appropriate. I could modify the leaf blower with a paper cone
possibly. Or I could buy a can of compressed air designed for computer
parts, etc.. Are either of these gonna work?



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isn't it called a single pole, zero throw (SDZT) switch?



On Nov 13, 10:35 pm, "bent" <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=...
>
> is my Canadian Tire TS.
>
> The switch started acting up after I had owned it for 6 mos. I would have
> to flick the switch up/down dozens of times, even hundred to get it to
> start. Once on, it stayed on until I shut it off again. While quickly
> repeatedly flicking it, it seemed the power was getting through at any point
> along the throw of the switch. It was getting a minor spark to the motor
> with minor partial rotation during many non-contiguous times flicking. I
> had a premonition which has just now come true. Now when plugged in and
> running, the OFF position does not stop rotation. I have to unplug the
> cable to stop rotation. I can plug it in to start it while it is in the OFF
> position. The switch does have an integral plastic safety "key", which
> pulls out, but probably isn't any part in the problem. The key used to work
> properly; now, in or out, it doesn't matter.
>
> My local CT may be the type of place I could likely take the switch, or
> other faulty component, and get another one, but I wouldn't know what or if
> I could do anything about it myself; not knowing how the switch would
> connect to the motor, or the motor to the switch, etc.. I haven't looked. I
> may need to revisit this post after this initial consultation.
>
> Is it the switch, or could it be the motor or anything else?
>
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Tue, Nov 14, 2006, 1:35am [email protected] (bent) doth posteth:
<snip>The switch started acting up after I had owned it for 6 mos.
<snip>
My local CT may be the type of place I could likely take the switch, or
other faulty component, and get another one, but I wouldn't know what or
if I could do anything about it myself; not knowing how the switch would
connect to the motor, or the motor to the switch, etc.. I haven't
looked. I may need to revisit this post after this initial consultation.
<snip>

My first thought was this is a troll. But then I checked, and
you've posted here before, so I wan't say more.

That should have been your first hint something is wrong with the
switch. You've already been told about cleaning the switch. If you've
got to replace the switch, it ain't rocket science. You take the wires
off the old switch, attach the wires to the new switch, in the same
places - ff you need to, take notes first on where the wires go You
might want to stick your head in and take a look - you'd best unplug the
saw first. Or maybe just call in an electrician.



JOAT
Democratic justice. One man, one rock.

"bent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I do not have access to an air hose, but I have a couple other options. 1
>immediate alternative is my decent leaf blower, but I am not sure if this
>is at all appropriate. I could modify the leaf blower with a paper cone
>possibly. Or I could buy a can of compressed air designed for computer
>parts, etc.. Are either of these gonna work?
Better the exhaust end of your vacuum cleaner.

Dollars to donuts you could get a replacement for six-eight bucks.

"bent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443277381&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672971&bmUID=1163483739505
>
> is my Canadian Tire TS.
>
> The switch started acting up after I had owned it for 6 mos. I would have
> to flick the switch up/down dozens of times, even hundred to get it to
> start. Once on, it stayed on until I shut it off again. While quickly
> repeatedly flicking it, it seemed the power was getting through at any
> point along the throw of the switch.

First, clean the switch. Get some compressed air in there to get the dust
that might be bleeding voltage out of the way. Then, with power off, throw
the switch a few times, shoot some more air to clean the carbon off the
contact bars. Tap the switch a few times on each of its four corners and
get some more air in there to redistribute what you knocked loose.

If it doesn't work, go get another switch. Wouldn't hurt to get a "motor
rated" switch, because it's heavier to take the startup load of an inductive
motor, even though yours is a universal.

While you're under there, get a little air in and around the carbons and
commutator.

I'm sure the OEM specified a price point, and if they could save a dime on
the switch and get marginal copper, they did.

"bent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443277381&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672971&bmUID=1163483739505
>
> is my Canadian Tire TS.
>
> The switch started acting up after I had owned it for 6 mos. I would have
> to flick the switch up/down dozens of times, even hundred to get it to
> start. Once on, it stayed on until I shut it off again. While quickly
> repeatedly flicking it, it seemed the power was getting through at any
> point along the throw of the switch. It was getting a minor spark to the
> motor with minor partial rotation during many non-contiguous times
> flicking. I had a premonition which has just now come true. Now when
> plugged in and running, the OFF position does not stop rotation. I have
> to unplug the cable to stop rotation. I can plug it in to start it while
> it is in the OFF position. The switch does have an integral plastic
> safety "key", which pulls out, but probably isn't any part in the problem.
> The key used to work properly; now, in or out, it doesn't matter.
>
> My local CT may be the type of place I could likely take the switch, or
> other faulty component, and get another one, but I wouldn't know what or
> if I could do anything about it myself; not knowing how the switch would
> connect to the motor, or the motor to the switch, etc.. I haven't looked.
> I may need to revisit this post after this initial consultation.
>
> Is it the switch, or could it be the motor or anything else?
It was the switch; hopefully it still is.

Remove it and take it to a home center, or maybe CT. If they don't have a
replacement (or if the clerk is too ignorant to know what you are showing
him) go to an electrical supply house.
Or, try Grizzly; they have replacement switches, but are expensive.

My jointer switch broke. I bought a replacement for $4 at Home Depot. It
was a little small and I had to make a new front cover, but that wasn't a
big deal.