I picked up one of the digital angle gauges from Lee Valley last Thursday.
It comes with rare earth magnets both sides and is solid and relatively
heavy. It can be set to relative zero and fully recalibrated if for any
reason that it loses it's settings. It runs on a 9v battery, so you wouldn't
have to worry about being gouged for some expensive little watch type
battery should you need a new one.
My only complaint is that the magnets don't hold as well as they could the
closer you get to a vertical surface, but it's situation one is not likely
to encounter very often.
LV also sells a non-digital compass type version of an angle gauge, but
considering the cost difference is only $11, the digital one gets my
preferred vote. Another toy to add to the pile. :)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=57056&cat=1,240,41064
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I picked up one of the digital angle gauges from Lee Valley last Thursday.
> It comes with rare earth magnets both sides and is solid and relatively
> heavy. It can be set to relative zero and fully recalibrated if for any
> reason that it loses it's settings. It runs on a 9v battery, so you
> wouldn't
> have to worry about being gouged for some expensive little watch type
> battery should you need a new one.
>
> My only complaint is that the magnets don't hold as well as they could the
> closer you get to a vertical surface, but it's situation one is not likely
> to encounter very often.
>
> LV also sells a non-digital compass type version of an angle gauge, but
> considering the cost difference is only $11, the digital one gets my
> preferred vote. Another toy to add to the pile. :)
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=57056&cat=1,240,41064
>
>
OK, I looked at the Lee Valley link again. I noticed that the gauge is
supposed to have "Rare Earth' magnets. You may have a defective unit, it
should be very resistant to slipping or falling. I'd give LeeValley a call
and have it exchanged.
Slipping is a problem if you use it to return your TS blade back to a 90
degree setting.
On Jun 19, 9:44=A0pm, Tom Veatch <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 17:35:06 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >You want as much accuracy as possible when cutting
> >parts for jigs or fixtures.
>
> I certainly won't argue against that point.
>
> But agonizing over the Tilt Box deflecting the blade something on the
> order of 0.025=B0 (inverse sine of .002/4.5) when the accuracy of the
> box is such that the tolerance on the measured angle is almost 10
> times that amount? It just seems to me that agony could be put to
> better use elsewhere.
>
> Tom Veatch
> Wichita, KS
> USA
I just use whatever square or bevel is handiest. Dim
the overhead lights, set a lamp on the saw table,
and try to kill the peep of light between the blade
and the gauge. According to Starrett's engineers,
if you have good eyes, that puts you within 50 millionths
of an inch of spot-on.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> OK, I looked at the Lee Valley link again. I noticed that the gauge is
> supposed to have "Rare Earth' magnets. You may have a defective unit, it
> should be very resistant to slipping or falling. I'd give LeeValley a
call
> and have it exchanged.
As you've mentioned (and Sheldon), it's possible the canopy pole I quickly
tested it on was partially a non-magnetic alloy of some type. That was the
only place I tried it because at the time, there wasn't anything else close
by. I'll test it on a more reliably metal ferrous object and let you know
what I find out.
On Jun 15, 6:19=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I picked up one of the digital angle gauges from Lee Valley last Thursday=
.
> It comes with rare earth magnets both sides and is solid and relatively
> heavy. It can be set to relative zero and fully recalibrated if for any
> reason that it loses it's settings. It runs on a 9v battery, so you would=
n't
> have to worry about being gouged for some expensive little watch type
> battery should you need a new one.
Accuracy typically claimed at what, 1/10 degree?
How heavy is "relatively heavy?" Heavy enough to
deflect a tilted blade a few tenths of a degree?
On Jun 15, 6:19=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I picked up one of the digital angle gauges from Lee Valley last Thursday=
.
> It comes with rare earth magnets both sides and is solid and relatively
> heavy. It can be set to relative zero and fully recalibrated if for any
> reason that it loses it's settings. It runs on a 9v battery, so you would=
n't
> have to worry about being gouged for some expensive little watch type
> battery should you need a new one.
>
> My only complaint is that the magnets don't hold as well as they could th=
e
> closer you get to a vertical surface, but it's situation one is not likel=
y
> to encounter very often.
>
> LV also sells a non-digital compass type version of an angle gauge, but
> considering the cost difference is only $11, the digital one gets my
> preferred vote. Another toy to add to the pile. =A0:)
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3D1&p=3D57056&cat=3D1,240,41064
I have the same gauge. I have to prevent it from smacking into a
vertical surface.... I suspect the surface you are testing is an alloy
that is fairly non-metallic
shelly
P.S. I love the thing. Couldn't cut a good miter before using it. The
onlt hitch is that it can't be used for a CMS
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 12:06:58 -0500, "basilisk" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>when I worked in a furniture plant, many years ago,
>we used flat machined plates, 1/4 inch thick, mounted on the arbors
>to do our initial setup and that eliminated blade runout and problems
>avoiding the teeth during setup.
>
>basilisk
>
>
>"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>On Jun 17, 6:40 pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > Accuracy typically claimed at what, 1/10 degree?
>>
>> They claim accurate to 0.2°.
>>
...
>
>Gotta be real careful whenever I'm using a dial
>indicator on a blade (1/8" kerf, standard, thick
>plate). Seems like a pound force against the
>side will flex it a good 10 thou or better.
>
.010 (ten thousands at the end of a 5" radius equates to about 0.1°.
That's within the claimed accuracy of the gauge.
Generally when I use the gauge, the blade is near it's full elevation,
the tilt angle is never more than 45°, and the gauge CG is more like
about 2.5 inches from the arbor. So instead of a pound acting normal
to the blade at the outer edge, the worst case would be a pound acting
at 45° to the blade 2.5 inches from the center. That's only about 35%
of the bending moment generated by 1 pound normal to the blade at the
outer edge.
Haven't ran an experiment to measure the deflection, and I may do it,
but I don't think it's going to cause any serious error in the
location or angle of the cut - unless, of course, you're one of the
woodworkers who works wood to tolerances the rest of us can only dream
about.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
On Jun 16, 3:01=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > OK, I looked at the Lee Valley link again. =A0I noticed that the gauge =
is
> > supposed to have "Rare Earth' magnets. =A0You may have a defective unit=
, it
> > should be very resistant to slipping or falling. =A0I'd give LeeValley =
a
> call
> > and have it exchanged.
>
> As you've mentioned (and Sheldon), it's possible the canopy pole I quickl=
y
> tested it on was partially a non-magnetic alloy of some type. That was th=
e
> only place I tried it because at the time, there wasn't anything else clo=
se
> by. I'll test it on a more reliably metal ferrous object and let you know
> what I find out.
Try a refrigerator. ;-)
"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Accuracy typically claimed at what, 1/10 degree?
They claim accurate to 0.2°.
> How heavy is "relatively heavy?" Heavy enough to
> deflect a tilted blade a few tenths of a degree?
I figure close to a pound. I suppose under the right conditions (or wrong
conditions in this case) the weight could have an effect on degree angle,
but considering all the possible variations one is going to encounter when
working with wood, I'd guess any deflection effect is going to be negligible
in the grand scheme of things.
On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 17:19:51 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>...
>My only complaint is that the magnets don't hold as well as they could the
>closer you get to a vertical surface, but it's situation one is not likely
>to encounter very often.
>
I agree with Shelley's comment. I have the same device (Beall Tilt
Box) and it has absolutely no tendency to slip when it grabs a
vertical saw blade. If yours does, and it shouldn't, talk to Lee
Valley about it. They have one of the best customer service
reputations in the business.
Mine is used often to set/check/verify the blade tilt angle (even 0°
tilt) on almost all tablesaw cuts where the correct angle is critical.
Beall makes some pretty useful shop accessories.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
On Jun 19, 2:54=A0pm, Tom Veatch <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 12:06:58 -0500, "basilisk" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >when I worked in a furniture plant, many years ago,
> >we used flat machined plates, 1/4 inch thick, mounted on the arbors
> >to do our initial setup and that eliminated blade runout and problems
> >avoiding the teeth during setup.
>
> >basilisk
>
> >"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >On Jun 17, 6:40 pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> > Accuracy typically claimed at what, 1/10 degree?
>
> >> They claim accurate to 0.2=B0.
>
> ...
>
> >Gotta be real careful whenever I'm using a dial
> >indicator on a blade (1/8" kerf, standard, thick
> >plate). =A0Seems like a pound force against the
> >side will flex it a good 10 thou or better.
>
> .010 (ten thousands at the end of a 5" radius equates to about 0.1=B0.
> That's within the claimed accuracy of the gauge.
>
> Generally when I use the gauge, the blade is near it's full elevation,
> the tilt angle is never more than 45=B0, and the gauge CG is more like
> about 2.5 inches from the arbor. So instead of a pound acting normal
> to the blade at the outer edge, the worst case would be a pound acting
> at 45=B0 to the blade 2.5 inches from the center. That's only about 35%
> of the bending moment generated by 1 pound normal to the blade at the
> outer edge.
>
> Haven't ran an experiment to measure the deflection, and I may do it,
> but I don't think it's going to cause any serious error in the
> location or angle of the cut - unless, of course, you're one of the
> woodworkers who works wood to tolerances the rest of us can only dream
> about.
That depends on the job.
You want as much accuracy as possible when cutting
parts for jigs or fixtures. Other than that, allowing
yourself fair tolerances speeds work.
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 12:36:58 -0600, Chris Friesen
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Edward A. Falk wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Might as well post all 180 of them for 1/2° steps between 0° and 90°.
>>> Then, you only need to build a new one if you want something other than
>>> 1/2°.
>>
>> I think the idea is that you only need one, at 90 degrees. Once you have
>> the blade at 90, slap the angle gauge on it, zero the gauge, then adjust
>> the saw to the angle of choice. See the photo in the Woodcraft ad.
>
>If you've got the gauge you don't need the setup block. Set the angle
>gauge on the table saw table, zero it, then set it on the blade and
>adjust the saw to the desired angle.
>
>Chris
I got one and it is really easy and fast to use. Now I have the
precison I did not have before. Mostly use it on my table saw, but it
is handly for jointer fence, drill press, and bandsaw tables. I
made a little wooden box to store the angle gauge.
Upscale wrote:
> I picked up one of the digital angle gauges from Lee Valley last Thursday.
> It comes with rare earth magnets both sides and is solid and relatively
> heavy. It can be set to relative zero and fully recalibrated if for any
> reason that it loses it's settings. It runs on a 9v battery, so you wouldn't
> have to worry about being gouged for some expensive little watch type
> battery should you need a new one.
>
> My only complaint is that the magnets don't hold as well as they could the
> closer you get to a vertical surface, but it's situation one is not likely
> to encounter very often.
>
> LV also sells a non-digital compass type version of an angle gauge, but
> considering the cost difference is only $11, the digital one gets my
> preferred vote. Another toy to add to the pile. :)
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=57056&cat=1,240,41064
>
>
I've got the Wixley that I picked up on sale for $24.00 at Woodcraft.
The magnets hold well even when vertical.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=147281&FamilyID=5894
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Might as well post all 180 of them for 1/2° steps between 0° and 90°.
>> Then, you only need to build a new one if you want something other than
>> 1/2°.
>
> I think the idea is that you only need one, at 90 degrees. Once you have
> the blade at 90, slap the angle gauge on it, zero the gauge, then adjust
> the saw to the angle of choice. See the photo in the Woodcraft ad.
If you've got the gauge you don't need the setup block. Set the angle
gauge on the table saw table, zero it, then set it on the blade and
adjust the saw to the desired angle.
Chris
"Upscale" wrote:
>I picked up one of the digital angle gauges from Lee Valley last
>Thursday.
Personally, I'm not a believer in layouts using angle measurements.
There is simply too much chance for error.
Rather use trigonometry and layout the line lengths using a compass
and intersecting arcs.
Then use a router /w/ a bearing and a straight edge to clean up the
lines.
I use 1/2 (9 ply) for these angle guides which is also handy if you
need to do the setup again in the future.
Lew
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> How heavy is "relatively heavy?" Heavy enough to
>> deflect a tilted blade a few tenths of a degree?
>
> And, I forgot to mention one other consideration. For a woodworker, this
> digital angle gauge has immeasurable toy value. I figure there's hours and
> hours of play potential incorporated into it. :)
>
>
I like the way you think.
"Jack Stein" wrote:
> If you use Lews method, you would need one template for each
> different angle you might set. Ergo, if you are building templates
> as Lew said, you would need 180 templates to have one for each .5°
> between 0 and 90°'s.
It's bargain day, you get two(2) for one(1).
When you lay out the base angle, you automatically get the
complementary angle for a right tringle, thus 0-45 is the only range
of interest.
Lew
"Jack Stein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Edward A. Falk wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Might as well post all 180 of them for 1/2° steps between 0° and 90°.
>>> Then, you only need to build a new one if you want something other than
>>> 1/2°.
>>
>> I think the idea is that you only need one, at 90 degrees.
>
> You don't need any of Lews templates if you have the gauge?
>
>> Once you have the blade at 90, slap the angle gauge on it, zero the
>> gauge, then adjust
>> the saw to the angle of choice. See the photo in the Woodcraft ad.
>
> I think you zero out the gauge on the table surface. After the gauge is
> zeroed out to the table surface, then you can stick it on the blade and
> adjust the blade to any angle you want, including 90°. If you use Lews
> method, you would need one template for each different angle you might
> set. Ergo, if you are building templates as Lew said, you would need 180
> templates to have one for each .5° between 0 and 90°'s. You would still
> need more templates for steps less than 1/2°, although few woodworkers
> would need more than 180 templates, most, other than Lew, would just spend
> a few bucks on an angle gauge of some sort.
Then there is the question, how do you cut an accurate angle block to start
with? Spend the $30-40 and be done with it.
"J. Clarke" wrote:
> That is not a picture of the device you made and used being used to
> set the
> blade on a table saw.
You are dumb as a fucking stone.
My apologies for not recognizing your limitations earlier.
Unfortunately for you, I'm not in the picture business, but somehow,
don't think a picture would solve your basic comprehension problem.
Lew
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I picked up one of the digital angle gauges from Lee Valley last Thursday.
> It comes with rare earth magnets both sides and is solid and relatively
> heavy. It can be set to relative zero and fully recalibrated if for any
> reason that it loses it's settings. It runs on a 9v battery, so you
> wouldn't
> have to worry about being gouged for some expensive little watch type
> battery should you need a new one.
>
> My only complaint is that the magnets don't hold as well as they could the
> closer you get to a vertical surface, but it's situation one is not likely
> to encounter very often.
>
> LV also sells a non-digital compass type version of an angle gauge, but
> considering the cost difference is only $11, the digital one gets my
> preferred vote. Another toy to add to the pile. :)
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=57056&cat=1,240,41064
>
>
I have had a similar one of these for a year or so now, they are very handy
for determining angles also. I use mine for much more than setting up my
equipment.
I spect your magnets would hold on to vertical surfaces better if the unit
used a "watch battery" instead of a heavy 9 volt battery. ;~)
But then the magnets don't do squat on wood surfaces. LOL
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Jun 16, 3:01 am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > OK, I looked at the Lee Valley link again. I noticed that the gauge is
> > supposed to have "Rare Earth' magnets. You may have a defective unit, it
> > should be very resistant to slipping or falling. I'd give LeeValley a
> call
> > and have it exchanged.
>
> As you've mentioned (and Sheldon), it's possible the canopy pole I quickly
> tested it on was partially a non-magnetic alloy of some type. That was the
> only place I tried it because at the time, there wasn't anything else
> close
> by. I'll test it on a more reliably metal ferrous object and let you know
> what I find out.
Try a refrigerator. ;-)
Perhaps not a stainless steel cased one.
"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> That depends on the job.
> You want as much accuracy as possible when cutting
> parts for jigs or fixtures. Other than that, allowing
> yourself fair tolerances speeds work.
A little transfixed about this aren't you? It's wood. From minute to minute
it's affected by expansion and contraction.
I've cut what I'd consider to be really tight tolerances in wood, but the
most I've ever needed has been 1/64" exactness. Maybe you don't consider
that very exact, but it's worked well for me as I suspect with most people.
On Jun 22, 8:46=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Father Haskell" wrote:
> >I just use whatever square or bevel is handiest.
>
> Think a custom cut triangle qualifies as a bevel, doesn't it?
>
> The "line of light" technique is quite accurate, but my preference is
> to compare freshly cut scrap piece against the complementary angle on
> the table as opposed to the gauge angle against the blade.
>
> If there is an error, it creates a "line of light" you could drive a
> Mack truck thru.
>
> (OK, a Peterbilt for the Texans)<G>
Be sure to use a violet light, since it has the shortest wavelength
still visible to human eyes.
Press both halves of the joint together and measure the dihedral
along both pieces. That'll multiply the error lots more.
On Jun 17, 6:40=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > Accuracy typically claimed at what, 1/10 degree?
>
> They claim accurate to 0.2=B0.
>
> > How heavy is "relatively heavy?" =A0Heavy enough to
> > deflect a tilted blade a few tenths of a degree?
>
> I figure close to a pound. I suppose under the right conditions (or wrong
> conditions in this case) the weight could have an effect on degree angle,
> but considering all the possible variations one is going to encounter whe=
n
> working with wood, I'd guess any deflection effect is going to be negligi=
ble
> in the grand scheme of things.
Gotta be real careful whenever I'm using a dial
indicator on a blade (1/8" kerf, standard, thick
plate). Seems like a pound force against the
side will flex it a good 10 thou or better.
On Jun 16, 4:01=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > OK, I looked at the Lee Valley link again. =A0I noticed that the gauge =
is
> > supposed to have "Rare Earth' magnets. =A0You may have a defective unit=
, it
> > should be very resistant to slipping or falling. =A0I'd give LeeValley =
a
> call
> > and have it exchanged.
>
> As you've mentioned (and Sheldon), it's possible the canopy pole I quickl=
y
> tested it on was partially a non-magnetic alloy of some type. That was th=
e
> only place I tried it because at the time, there wasn't anything else clo=
se
> by. I'll test it on a more reliably metal ferrous object and let you know
> what I find out.
Lee valley also sells a strap-on level for posts - not metal, but you
could rig something
it also works well
shelly
"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> How heavy is "relatively heavy?" Heavy enough to
> deflect a tilted blade a few tenths of a degree?
And, I forgot to mention one other consideration. For a woodworker, this
digital angle gauge has immeasurable toy value. I figure there's hours and
hours of play potential incorporated into it. :)
On Jun 16, 1:36=A0am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "J. Clarke" wrote:
> > So tell us how you use that technique to set your table saw blade
> > for a
> > bevel cut.
>
> Make a gauge block first, then set to it.
>
> Basic 101.
>
> Lew
good idea - I'll give it a whirl
shelly
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Upscale" wrote:
>
>> I picked up one of the digital angle gauges from Lee Valley last
>> Thursday.
>
> Personally, I'm not a believer in layouts using angle measurements.
>
> There is simply too much chance for error.
>
> Rather use trigonometry and layout the line lengths using a compass
> and intersecting arcs.
>
> Then use a router /w/ a bearing and a straight edge to clean up the
> lines.
>
> I use 1/2 (9 ply) for these angle guides which is also handy if you
> need to do the setup again in the future.
So tell us how you use that technique to set your table saw blade for a
bevel cut.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "J. Clarke" wrote:
>
>> Care to post your design somewhere?
>
> What part of a 9 ply Birch triangle would you like me to post?
Might as well post all 180 of them for 1/2° steps between 0° and 90°.
Then, you only need to build a new one if you want something other than
1/2°.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "J. Clarke" wrote:
>
>> In other words you didn't make the thing you claim to have made.
>
> See if you are up to this for starters?
> ======================================
> A^2 + B^2 = C^2
>
> A = C(Sin "a") = Altitude of triangle
> B = C(Cos "a") = Base of triangle
> C = Hypotenuse of triangle
> "a" = Desired angle
>
> Select angle "a" and hypotenuse length, then calculate results.
>
> Layout triangle and trim to size.
> ======================================
> Are you that damn lazy or just plain dense?
I'd hope everyone with half a brain is that "lazy". That's why millions
of tools are sold to measure and set angles...
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "J. Clarke" wrote:
>
>> In other words you didn't make the thing you claim to have made.
>
> See if you are up to this for starters?
> ======================================
> A^2 + B^2 = C^2
>
> A = C(Sin "a") = Altitude of triangle
> B = C(Cos "a") = Base of triangle
> C = Hypotenuse of triangle
> "a" = Desired angle
>
> Select angle "a" and hypotenuse length, then calculate results.
>
> Layout triangle and trim to size.
> ======================================
> Are you that damn lazy or just plain dense?
That is not a picture of the device you made and used being used to set the
blade on a table saw.
In news:[email protected],
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> dropped this bit of wisdom:
> "J. Clarke" wrote:
>=20
>> That is not a picture of the device you made and used being used to
>> set the
>> blade on a table saw.
>=20
> You are dumb as a fucking stone.
>=20
> My apologies for not recognizing your limitations earlier.
>=20
> Unfortunately for you, I'm not in the picture business, but somehow,
> don't think a picture would solve your basic comprehension problem.
>=20
> Lew
Lew, you might appreciate this bit of humour:
While suturing a cut on the hand of a 75-year old Texas rancher whose =
hand was caught in a gate while working cattle, a doctor struck up a =
conversation with the old man. Eventually, the topic got around to =
former Texas Governor, George W. Bush, and his elevation to the White =
House.
The old Texan said, "Well, ya know, Bush is a 'post turtle'."
Not being familiar with the term, the doctor asked him what a 'post =
turtle' was.
The old rancher said, "When you're driving down a country road and you =
come across a fence post with a turtle balanced on top, that's a post =
turtle."
The old man saw a puzzled look on the doctor's face, so he continued to =
explain, "You know he didn't get there by himself, he doesn't belong =
there, he doesn't know what to do while he's up there, and you just want =
to help the dumb shit get down!"
-------------------------
Seems you must have found one. BEG
P D Q
In article <[email protected]>,
Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I've got the Wixley that I picked up on sale for $24.00 at Woodcraft.
>The magnets hold well even when vertical.
>
>http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=147281&FamilyID=5894
I bought one of those once. The cheap-ass membrane switches failed
before I got any real use out of the thing.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Might as well post all 180 of them for 1/2° steps between 0° and 90°.
>Then, you only need to build a new one if you want something other than
>1/2°.
I think the idea is that you only need one, at 90 degrees. Once you have
the blade at 90, slap the angle gauge on it, zero the gauge, then adjust
the saw to the angle of choice. See the photo in the Woodcraft ad.
You also have to make sure that the blade doesn't rotate while you
adjust it.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
Father Haskell wrote:
> On Jun 17, 6:40 pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> Accuracy typically claimed at what, 1/10 degree?
>>
>> They claim accurate to 0.2°.
>>
>>> How heavy is "relatively heavy?" Heavy enough to
>>> deflect a tilted blade a few tenths of a degree?
>>
>> I figure close to a pound. I suppose under the right conditions (or
>> wrong conditions in this case) the weight could have an effect on
>> degree angle, but considering all the possible variations one is
>> going to encounter when working with wood, I'd guess any deflection
>> effect is going to be negligible in the grand scheme of things.
>
> Gotta be real careful whenever I'm using a dial
> indicator on a blade (1/8" kerf, standard, thick
> plate). Seems like a pound force against the
> side will flex it a good 10 thou or better.
I doubt that one can cut one of Lew's plywood triangles to that kind of
precision.
when I worked in a furniture plant, many years ago,
we used flat machined plates, 1/4 inch thick, mounted on the arbors
to do our initial setup and that eliminated blade runout and problems
avoiding the teeth during setup.
basilisk
"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Jun 17, 6:40 pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > Accuracy typically claimed at what, 1/10 degree?
>
> They claim accurate to 0.2°.
>
> > How heavy is "relatively heavy?" Heavy enough to
> > deflect a tilted blade a few tenths of a degree?
>
> I figure close to a pound. I suppose under the right conditions (or wrong
> conditions in this case) the weight could have an effect on degree angle,
> but considering all the possible variations one is going to encounter when
> working with wood, I'd guess any deflection effect is going to be
> negligible
> in the grand scheme of things.
Gotta be real careful whenever I'm using a dial
indicator on a blade (1/8" kerf, standard, thick
plate). Seems like a pound force against the
side will flex it a good 10 thou or better.
Edward A. Falk wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Might as well post all 180 of them for 1/2° steps between 0° and 90°.
>> Then, you only need to build a new one if you want something other than
>> 1/2°.
>
> I think the idea is that you only need one, at 90 degrees.
You don't need any of Lews templates if you have the gauge?
> Once you have the blade at 90, slap the angle gauge on it, zero the gauge, then adjust
> the saw to the angle of choice. See the photo in the Woodcraft ad.
I think you zero out the gauge on the table surface. After the gauge is
zeroed out to the table surface, then you can stick it on the blade and
adjust the blade to any angle you want, including 90°. If you use Lews
method, you would need one template for each different angle you might
set. Ergo, if you are building templates as Lew said, you would need
180 templates to have one for each .5° between 0 and 90°'s. You would
still need more templates for steps less than 1/2°, although few
woodworkers would need more than 180 templates, most, other than Lew,
would just spend a few bucks on an angle gauge of some sort.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 13:54:07 -0500, Tom Veatch <[email protected]> wrote:
>Haven't ran an experiment to measure the deflection,
Well, now I have run the experiment.
1. My Beall Tilt box, on a set of postal scales, weighs 6.9 oz.
2. The saw blade is a thin kerf Freud rip cut blade. I don't
know/remember the model number, it's just the one that was on the saw
when I went to the shop to run the experiment.
3. Tilt angle = 45° according to the Tilt Box.
4. Dial indicator set perpendicular to the blade at a point about 4.5"
from the arbor centerline with the indicator zeroed.
5. Tilt Box magnetically affixed to the blade directly above the arbor
and butted up against the inside edge of one of the teeth - as far
from the center of the blade as it could be positioned to maximize the
deflection..
6. Several measurements taken at various points around the perimeter
of the blade (no, I didn't count them, nor did I record individual
measurements or their relative angular locations around the blade).
Caveats:
1. Dial indicator calibration traceable to the Bureau of Standards is
not available. Dial indicator is the one that came with my "Align-It".
2. Angle between the Dial indicator plunger and the plane of the blade
was eyeballed with reference to a small (2") machinist's square.
3. Calibration of the square traceable to the Bureau of Standards is
not available.
4. Blade was not supported to prevent deflection affecting the angle
measured by eyeball in 2. above.
5. Location of the measurement point identified above as '4.5" from
the arbor centerline" was eyeballed as about 0.5" from the outer
perimeter of a 10" saw blade.
6. Any other nits relative to rigidity and deflections in the dial
indicator mounting, accuracy of the indicator, and any others you can
think of, are your's for the picking.
Results:
All deflection measurements relative to the unloaded blade fell within
the range of 0.0015" to 0.002".
Precision:
Only God knows.
Conclusion:
A tempest in a teapot and not worthy of further concern.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
"Father Haskell" wrote:
>I just use whatever square or bevel is handiest.
Think a custom cut triangle qualifies as a bevel, doesn't it?
The "line of light" technique is quite accurate, but my preference is
to compare freshly cut scrap piece against the complementary angle on
the table as opposed to the gauge angle against the blade.
If there is an error, it creates a "line of light" you could drive a
Mack truck thru.
(OK, a Peterbilt for the Texans)<G>
Lew
On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 18:46:46 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]
wrote:
>. The\ onlt hitch is that it can't be used for a CMS
Hmmm, I haven't tried to use mine to set the bevel angle on my CMS but
don't see any obvious reason that it couldn't. I agree on the miter
angle, but why not the bevel?
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 17:35:06 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote:
>You want as much accuracy as possible when cutting
>parts for jigs or fixtures.
I certainly won't argue against that point.
But agonizing over the Tilt Box deflecting the blade something on the
order of 0.025° (inverse sine of .002/4.5) when the accuracy of the
box is such that the tolerance on the measured angle is almost 10
times that amount? It just seems to me that agony could be put to
better use elsewhere.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
"J. Clarke" wrote:
> In other words you didn't make the thing you claim to have made.
See if you are up to this for starters?
======================================
A^2 + B^2 = C^2
A = C(Sin "a") = Altitude of triangle
B = C(Cos "a") = Base of triangle
C = Hypotenuse of triangle
"a" = Desired angle
Select angle "a" and hypotenuse length, then calculate results.
Layout triangle and trim to size.
======================================
Are you that damn lazy or just plain dense?
Lew
"Leon" wrote:
> Then there is the question, how do you cut an accurate angle block
> to start with? Spend the $30-40 and be done with it.
As previously stated, layout accurate line with compass and straight
edge, then trim to size with straight edge and router.
Table saw is simply not accurate enough for a gauge block.
Lew
On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 18:46:46 -0700, sheldon.mandel wrote:
>
> P.S. I love the thing. Couldn't cut a good miter before using it. The
> onlt hitch is that it can't be used for a CMS
But it works great on my old Delta tablesaw where the table tilts instead
of the blade :-).
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw