Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.
On 5/14/2012 6:55 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 5/13/2012 9:57 AM, Sonny wrote:
>> Did you ever find a edge sander?
>>
>> Distance from you and 3 phase are negatives, I suppose. There are 2
>> in Marshall, Tx., Lots 19& 20:
>> http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.asp?pg=details&id=15986
>>
>
> Sonny! Thank you for still thinking about me. I have decided against the
> edge sander for the time being.
>
> For the past 30+ years I have predominately used red oak and had no need
> to sand my ripped edges. In the past couple of years I have added a
> Festool track saw and have also started using white oak a LOT.
>
> White oak burning like maple and cherry is something that I was not
> aware of. A few weeks ago I started using red oak again for a small
> project and once again an 18 month old Forrest WWII is cutting smooth as
> a baby's butt, and no burn.
>
> Thanks again, I think perhaps for the first time in many many years I
> may consider a good quality rip blade for white oak.
Leon, you ever consider the 30t WWII?
It will allow you to rip faster. I don't know how the crosscuts would
be, but that would help eliminate the burning.
That's the penalty for a general use blade like the 40T. It does
everything well, not perfect.
On 5/17/2012 9:13 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 5/16/2012 9:47 PM, CW wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Leon" wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>>> Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.
>>
>> Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
>> to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
>> quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
>> exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
>> ========================================================
>> Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.
>>
>>
>
> Thinking about doing that but geez I hate changing blades.
>
>
> No burning on maple, cherry , and white oak? Scorching is what I am
> concerned about otherwise the cut is fine. I have no scorching problem
> with red oak, pine, walnut, plywood.
On 5/17/2012 11:16 AM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> On 5/16/2012 9:47 PM, CW wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Leon" wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>>> Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.
>>
>> Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
>> to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
>> quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
>> exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
>> ========================================================
>> Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.
>>
>>
>
> Thinking about doing that but geez I hate changing blades.
>
>
> No burning on maple, cherry , and white oak? Scorching is what I am
> concerned about otherwise the cut is fine. I have no scorching problem
> with red oak, pine, walnut, plywood.
> ====================================================================
> Never tried it on cherry. Does a great job on white oak and maple.
Well then it should do well on cherry too, I would think. I'll have to
look a little closer at that blade. Thanks.
On 5/17/2012 11:41 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
> Leon, you ever consider the 30t WWII?
> It will allow you to rip faster. I don't know how the crosscuts would
> be, but that would help eliminate the burning.
>
>
> That's the penalty for a general use blade like the 40T. It does
> everything well, not perfect.
Yeah I have considered it........ might shoot Forrest an e-mail and see
what they have to say..
"Leon" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.
Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
========================================================
Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.
> On 5/14/2012 6:55 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 5/13/2012 9:57 AM, Sonny wrote:
>>> Did you ever find a edge sander?
>>>
>>> Distance from you and 3 phase are negatives, I suppose. There are 2
>>> in Marshall, Tx., Lots 19& 20:
>>> http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.asp?pg=details&id=15986
>>>
>>
>> Sonny! Thank you for still thinking about me. I have decided against the
>> edge sander for the time being.
>>
>> For the past 30+ years I have predominately used red oak and had no need
>> to sand my ripped edges. In the past couple of years I have added a
>> Festool track saw and have also started using white oak a LOT.
>>
>> White oak burning like maple and cherry is something that I was not
>> aware of. A few weeks ago I started using red oak again for a small
>> project and once again an 18 month old Forrest WWII is cutting smooth as
>> a baby's butt, and no burn.
>>
>> Thanks again, I think perhaps for the first time in many many years I
>> may consider a good quality rip blade for white oak.
On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.
Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
> On 5/14/2012 6:55 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 5/13/2012 9:57 AM, Sonny wrote:
>>> Did you ever find a edge sander?
>>>
>>> Distance from you and 3 phase are negatives, I suppose. There are 2
>>> in Marshall, Tx., Lots 19& 20:
>>> http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.asp?pg=details&id=15986
>>>
>>
>> Sonny! Thank you for still thinking about me. I have decided against the
>> edge sander for the time being.
>>
>> For the past 30+ years I have predominately used red oak and had no need
>> to sand my ripped edges. In the past couple of years I have added a
>> Festool track saw and have also started using white oak a LOT.
>>
>> White oak burning like maple and cherry is something that I was not
>> aware of. A few weeks ago I started using red oak again for a small
>> project and once again an 18 month old Forrest WWII is cutting smooth as
>> a baby's butt, and no burn.
>>
>> Thanks again, I think perhaps for the first time in many many years I
>> may consider a good quality rip blade for white oak.
"Leon" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On 5/16/2012 9:47 PM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>> Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.
>
> Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
> to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
> quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
> exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
> ========================================================
> Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.
>
>
Thinking about doing that but geez I hate changing blades.
No burning on maple, cherry , and white oak? Scorching is what I am
concerned about otherwise the cut is fine. I have no scorching problem
with red oak, pine, walnut, plywood.
====================================================================
Never tried it on cherry. Does a great job on white oak and maple.
On 5/13/2012 9:57 AM, Sonny wrote:
> Did you ever find a edge sander?
>
> Distance from you and 3 phase are negatives, I suppose. There are 2
> in Marshall, Tx., Lots 19& 20: http://irsauctions.com/index_lots.asp?pg=details&id=15986
>
Sonny! Thank you for still thinking about me. I have decided against
the edge sander for the time being.
For the past 30+ years I have predominately used red oak and had no need
to sand my ripped edges. In the past couple of years I have added a
Festool track saw and have also started using white oak a LOT.
White oak burning like maple and cherry is something that I was not
aware of. A few weeks ago I started using red oak again for a small
project and once again an 18 month old Forrest WWII is cutting smooth as
a baby's butt, and no burn.
Thanks again, I think perhaps for the first time in many many years I
may consider a good quality rip blade for white oak.
On 5/16/2012 9:47 PM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> On 5/14/2012 6:20 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>> Use your WWII. I do it's a great blade for it. Just move it faster.
>
> Been doing that for 13+ years. Still it is hard to tell just how fast
> to feed the wood to prevent scorching. I do still get glue joint
> quality cuts, but I have to sand the edges if they are going to be
> exposed, something that I rarely need to do with red oak.
> ========================================================
> Get a Freud glue line rip blade. Glue line quality cut and no burning.
>
>
Thinking about doing that but geez I hate changing blades.
No burning on maple, cherry , and white oak? Scorching is what I am
concerned about otherwise the cut is fine. I have no scorching problem
with red oak, pine, walnut, plywood.