I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
marking system (e.g., chalk)?
--
John Snow
"If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
On 28 Jun 2004 18:07:10 GMT, Hitch <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
>fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
>marking system (e.g., chalk)?
I use crayon, usually on the back, edge, or end that won't show. Even
on faces of boards, if you use only enough pressure to write, the
crayon sands off easily. You can even use colors for additional
meanings.
I also keep crayons on the jointer to mark the 90 degree edges.
Barry
Besides the obvious, that there's an end, edge, or inside that will accept
marking without having to worry about removal.
I keep the pieces in stacks, labeled.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Paint thinner will remove pencil marks.
>
>
>
John, An old drag racing tip will work here as well. When product sponsors
offering contingency awards for winners they would require us to have a
product sticker on the car. (We were NOT required to use the product, only
the sticker!)
We did not want most of these super sticky logos on the car permently so we
would stick it to our shirt or pants first. This would lift the cotton
fibers and provide for easy removal after the award ceremony and contingency
awards were handed out.
Stick the tape to you pant leg before applying it to the wood, use a Sharpie
to make notes. Works great.
Dave
"Hitch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
> Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
> fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
> marking system (e.g., chalk)?
>
> --
> John Snow
> "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
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Can't figure how I manage my workflow to make it possible, but I'm going to
keep planning ahead and marking accordingly.
"Hitch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "George" <george@least> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> > Besides the obvious, that there's an end, edge, or inside that will
> > accept marking without having to worry about removal.
>
> I thought about marking the edges, except that I keep cutting off the
edges
> as I proceed.
>
> --
> John Snow
> "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
They sometimes bind that chalk with wax, you know. That could ruin your
day.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> as a long time user of chalk for this purpose I have adjusted my
> thinking recently. I had chalk marks telegraph through the finish on
> some birch ply cabinets- there was no stain, the finish was waterborne
> poly sprayed on, and though the chalk wasn't visible on the surface
> before spraying, the numbers showed up in the finish coat.
>
> I still mark with chalk, but only on rough cuts on material that will
> be further dimensioned. after that I mark with pencil on a hidden
> surface or use tape.
Erasers are not all the same, and some do leave marks as you say. I
bought a bunch of those larger erasers that fit over the top of the
pencil, having checked them first to make sure they don't stain, and
put one on all my shop pencils. Side benefit of this is the pencils
don't roll off the bench 'cause the new eraser is oval at the base.
Mutt
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I find that with most pencils, the eraser leaves a stain or mark that is
> worse that the lead markings. Wipe a little thinner on the pencil lead
> marks and they wipe away.
Hitch <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
> Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
> fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
> marking system (e.g., chalk)?
I use some of my Daughter's sidewalk chalk. Its pink and its shaped
like an egg, but it works. Comes off with damp cloth, vacuum, sweaty
hand, etc.
Hitch <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
> Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
> fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
> marking system (e.g., chalk)?
I had a lot of trouble sanding pencil marks off as well...until I came
across my old eraser! Much easier. I use a drafting lead holder &
number 3 or 4 lead.
I second the drafting tape suggestion as well, it's low tack enough
not to tear paper.
On 28 Jun 2004 18:07:10 GMT, Hitch <[email protected]> wrote:
Try the green masking tape used by painters & decorators. It's
designed to be easily removed. Mark info on the tape before removing
and sticking on the wood. You can use any sort of pen then.
Bill.
>I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
>cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
>will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
>after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
>sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
>Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
>fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
>marking system (e.g., chalk)?
John,
Been awhile since I looked but there is a 3m "Super-Sticky" PostIt note
http://www.3m.com/us/office/postit/supersticky/index.jhtml
There may be some other low-adhesion tapes that won't pull up any grain but
I've been using the 3M blue tape for several years now and haven't any
problems.
Bob S.
"Hitch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Try using the small sticky notes.
> >
> > Bob S.
>
>
> Do they make Post-it tape? Post-its themselves don't have enough adhesive
> area to prevent them from being accidentally dislodged. I could rip the
> non-adhesive portions from the notes, but it would be easier to use tape.
>
>
>
> --
> John Snow
> "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
"Hitch" wrote ...
> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
Chalk is what I use. White chalk on dark wood and some other colored chalk
on light wood. My daughter has sidewalk chalk in kind of a brown color. I
either use that or blue for the light wood. I have NEVER had any problem
with it dying or staining the wood (plywood or otherwise), or otherwise
interfering with the finish.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
i dont know exactly how much id'ing you need but you can wrap each piece up
in paper and label it, or tie a string around it with a tag on that
depending on how big the piece is...
OR
you can put paper down on some shelves, label the paper and put the pieces
on the paper you labeled. doesnt do any good if you mix them up somehow
though...
whenever i take something with lots of small parts apart, i get coffee
filters and put the pieces in them and label the filter. keeps em well
labeled and they wont roll away.
randy
"Hitch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
> Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
> fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
> marking system (e.g., chalk)?
>
> --
> John Snow
> "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
gee Doug..... I think we went to the same school... Picyune Chalk
Outtaboard High....
Bob S.
> The not-so-good advice: chalk. On close-grained woods such as maple or
cherry,
> chalk is just fine. But it should *not* be used on open-grained woods. I
have
> very un-fond memories of a morning spent with a bright light and a
magnifying
> glass, using a dental examiner to pick bits of chalk out of the pores on
three
> pieces of beautiful quartersawn red oak before I could finish it. Now, I
use
> chalk only for marking rough lumber.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
I have seen David Marks use it. Do you have trouble getting it out of the
open grain of Oak or Walnut?
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Chalk works very well for me.
Chalk works very well for me.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
[email protected]
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Hitch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
> Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
> fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
> marking system (e.g., chalk)?
>
> --
> John Snow
> "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
Got cha. thanks.
"Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote ...
> > I have seen David Marks use it. Do you have trouble getting it out of
> the
> > open grain of Oak or Walnut?
> > "Mike G" wrote ...
> > > Chalk works very well for me.
>
> Just don't pound it in with a sledge hammer like Doug does. You can
always
> reapply it. If an errant particle does get caught you should be able to
> remove it with compressed air. I've never had that trouble before - not
> even on red oak or walnut.
>
> --
>
> Cheers,
> Howard
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
> Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
>
>
Hitch <[email protected]> writes:
>"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Try using the small sticky notes.
>>
>> Bob S.
>
>
>Do they make Post-it tape?
Yes. I have a roll around somewhere.
scott
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Try using the small sticky notes.
>
> Bob S.
Do they make Post-it tape? Post-its themselves don't have enough adhesive
area to prevent them from being accidentally dislodged. I could rip the
non-adhesive portions from the notes, but it would be easier to use tape.
--
John Snow
"If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
"George" <george@least> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Besides the obvious, that there's an end, edge, or inside that will
> accept marking without having to worry about removal.
>
> I keep the pieces in stacks, labeled.
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Paint thinner will remove pencil marks.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
I thought about marking the edges, except that I keep cutting off the edges
as I proceed.
--
John Snow
"If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
On Tue 29 Jun 2004 08:35:28a, [email protected] (Gary DeWitt) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I had a lot of trouble sanding pencil marks off as well...until I came
> across my old eraser! Much easier. I use a drafting lead holder &
> number 3 or 4 lead.
Yeah, I started doing that too. I just use the eraser on the end of the
pencil. For some reason the pencils disappear before the eraser wears down
so that's not been a problem. I got the idea of erasing the pencil marks
instead of sanding them out from, um... [cough] Bruce Johnson. But he's
right, sanding seems to push the lead into the wood before it sands it off.
Dan
[email protected] (Mutt) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Erasers are not all the same, and some do leave marks as you say. I
> bought a bunch of those larger erasers that fit over the top of the
> pencil, having checked them first to make sure they don't stain, and
> put one on all my shop pencils. Side benefit of this is the pencils
> don't roll off the bench 'cause the new eraser is oval at the base.
>
> Mutt
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>> I find that with most pencils, the eraser leaves a stain or mark that
>> is worse that the lead markings. Wipe a little thinner on the pencil
>> lead marks and they wipe away.
>
For drafting the vinyl erasers are the best, leaving little or no marks on
paper, vellum, and film. I have used them on wood, but the coarser-grained
varieties still retain some graphite deep in the grain.
--
John Snow
"If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
Hitch wrote:
> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
> Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
> fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
> marking system (e.g., chalk)?
Was that the 14-day blue tape or the 60-day blue tape "for delicate
surfaces"?
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 15:48:23 -0400, "Howard Ruttan"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"Hitch" wrote ...
>> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
>> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
>> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
>> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
>> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
>Chalk is what I use. White chalk on dark wood and some other colored chalk
>on light wood. My daughter has sidewalk chalk in kind of a brown color. I
>either use that or blue for the light wood. I have NEVER had any problem
>with it dying or staining the wood (plywood or otherwise), or otherwise
>interfering with the finish.
as a long time user of chalk for this purpose I have adjusted my
thinking recently. I had chalk marks telegraph through the finish on
some birch ply cabinets- there was no stain, the finish was waterborne
poly sprayed on, and though the chalk wasn't visible on the surface
before spraying, the numbers showed up in the finish coat.
I still mark with chalk, but only on rough cuts on material that will
be further dimensioned. after that I mark with pencil on a hidden
surface or use tape.
"Leon" wrote ...
> I have seen David Marks use it. Do you have trouble getting it out of
the
> open grain of Oak or Walnut?
> "Mike G" wrote ...
> > Chalk works very well for me.
Just don't pound it in with a sledge hammer like Doug does. You can always
reapply it. If an errant particle does get caught you should be able to
remove it with compressed air. I've never had that trouble before - not
even on red oak or walnut.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
Try using the small sticky notes.
Bob S.
"Hitch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
> Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
> fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
> marking system (e.g., chalk)?
>
> --
> John Snow
> "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
No, most any liquid will take it out but, in any event, once the piece is
assembled it usually needs sanding and that pretty well takes care of
things.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
[email protected]
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have seen David Marks use it. Do you have trouble getting it out of
the
> open grain of Oak or Walnut?
>
>
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Chalk works very well for me.
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, Hitch <[email protected]> wrote:
>I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
>cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
>will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
>after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
>sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
>Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
>fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
>marking system (e.g., chalk)?
>
You've gotten some good advice, and some IMHO not-so-good advice.
The good advice: post-it notes (or post-it tape), pencil marks in hidden or
to-be-trimmed-off places, stacking like parts together and labelling the
stack.
The not-so-good advice: chalk. On close-grained woods such as maple or cherry,
chalk is just fine. But it should *not* be used on open-grained woods. I have
very un-fond memories of a morning spent with a bright light and a magnifying
glass, using a dental examiner to pick bits of chalk out of the pores on three
pieces of beautiful quartersawn red oak before I could finish it. Now, I use
chalk only for marking rough lumber.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
In article <[email protected]>,
Hitch <[email protected]> wrote:
> I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
I use either chalk or pencil. If you go with a pencil make sure you only
use a 2B to 6B - stay away from the Ticonderogas or the other #2 SAT
versions - the higher # you go in the B range the softer the "lead" and
it won't leave an impression in the surface. (Needless to say, stay away
from the HB and H series.)
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Yeah, I started doing that too. I just use the eraser on the end of the
> pencil. For some reason the pencils disappear before the eraser wears down
> so that's not been a problem. I got the idea of erasing the pencil marks
> instead of sanding them out from, um... [cough] Bruce Johnson. But he's
> right, sanding seems to push the lead into the wood before it sands it
off.
I find that with most pencils, the eraser leaves a stain or mark that is
worse that the lead markings. Wipe a little thinner on the pencil lead
marks and they wipe away.
Drafting tape.
"Hitch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been using the removable masking tape (blue) for labeling pieces as I
> cut them, but have seen that sometimes, especially on plywood, the tape
> will pull some of the wood fibers from under the tape when I remove it
> after a day or so. I quit using pencil because it can take a lot of
> sanding or scraping to remove the marks.
>
> Is there another tape I can use which will not leave adhesive or pull
> fibers from the wood, or do I need to use pencil or some other write-on
> marking system (e.g., chalk)?
>
> --
> John Snow
> "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
"Mike G" wrote in message
> No, most any liquid will take it out but, in any event, once the piece is
> assembled it usually needs sanding and that pretty well takes care of
> things.
Agreed ... I almost always use chalk for marking project parts. Biggest
problem I have with it is keeping it on, not getting it off.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04