Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.
The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.
Puckdropper
On Apr 26, 11:48=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:
>
> > Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of=
wood
> > done with shellac.
> > I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass =
like
> > finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
> > Glass like in look and touch..
> > Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run
>
> It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
> Rubenesque.
>
> Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
> pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
'Pleasingly plump'... now there's a mouthful.
I never cared for the 'bag-o-antlers' look either. (Except Twiggy)
The biggest problem with gloss, is that it tends to look like plastic.
I once had the chance to see a Yamaha piano next to a B=F6sendorfer
grand behind the same stage under the same light. Both shiny/glossy
but the Boes was just nicer. Nicer to touch, nicer to look at, nicer
reflection. I couldn't figure it out.
Then, after a half hour it struck me.... the Boesendorfer was just a
miniscule amount less shiny and maybe 1/2% less black towards the
ebony side of things...ever so subtle. I suddenly understood how an
expert can tell a cubic zirconium from a real diamond=97not what it is,
but what it isn't and in the Boesendorfer's case, it wasn't as black.
On Apr 27, 6:44=A0pm, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <371216ef-f67e-4168-be03-f2d6c3e0d974
> @p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 27, 12:35 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> > > Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote innews:f7094bb4-6a2f-4=
[email protected]:
>
> > > > If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
> > > > the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
> > > > glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
> > > > a rag on a freshly Windexed window.
>
> > > Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? My primary co=
ncern
> > > would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.
>
> > > Puckdropper
>
> > That was my first question about the product. =A0None
> > that I can see, according to the MSDS.
>
> If you want to be sure, then use the equivalent product from Meguiars or
> 3M (I think it would be Meguiars Swirl Remover M0916 or M0901 or 3M
> Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish 06069, 06068, or 39062--the
> different numbers are for different sizes). =A0The Meguiars and 3M are
> body-shop products and would be silicone-free. =A0The Meguiars works fine
> for me with lacquer and polyurethanes and has never given any kind of
> problem.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I'm biased toward Meguiar's, based on others'
recommendations, shame Walmart didn't carry
it.
On Apr 27, 12:35=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote innews:f7094bb4-6a2f-47b1-=
[email protected]:
>
>
>
> > If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
> > the icing on the cake. =A0You'll know when the surface is like
> > glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
> > a rag on a freshly Windexed window.
>
> Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? =A0My primary con=
cern
> would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.
>
> Puckdropper
That was my first question about the product. None
that I can see, according to the MSDS.
"Swingman" wrote:
> To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a
> lubricant for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.
---------------------------------
SFWIW, bee's wax cut with turps and BLO works for me.
Keep a 1# coffee can with the above sealed and ready to go.
Use the coffee can as part of a double boiler to melt wax.
YMMV
Lew
Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:14:30 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>>> To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
>>> vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind
>>> up on your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.
>>
>> Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never
>> had it form little balls with steel wool.
>
> Probably harder to build the temperature as much because of the air
> between the strands. I can assure you it happens with 600 or 800 grit
> paper. I haven't tried the steel wool but will in the future.
Steel wool is also a metal, which would act as heat sink and keep
things cool.
> For sandpaper I've had the best luck by waiting for a couple of weeks.
>
I just never got good results with sandpaper. It always seemed like
it'd take more finish off than I wanted. (I didn't have any higher than
220 grit, though.)
Puckdropper
"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
>
> "Swingman" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>> To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a
>> lubricant for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.
>>
>> Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
>> finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.
>>
>
>
> I learned that plain printer paper will work if you don't have a
> grocery bag handy. Making those printed plans work twice. How GREEN
> is that?
>
The whole process can be very green :-] :
Reduce: Print plans to scale
Reuse: Use plans to polish project
Recycle: Print new plans on the other side (this only works if the plans
don't tear and you use only one side.)
I'll have to give the paper/bag trick a try.
Puckdropper
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 26 Apr 2011 11:20:46 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish
>>that is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days
>>ago when I came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>>
>>The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's
>>warm and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it
>>turns out.
>
> Yeah, and try waxing your Johnson. Oops, I meant to say "Try applying
> Johnson's Paste Wax with 0000 steel wool." It produces a wood with a
> wunnerful "hand". That's why I prefer the hand-rubbed oil finishes.
> You can still feel the wood underneath.
It does produce a different finish. A little higher sheen, but just as
smooth. I haven't decided if I like it better, it might be one of those
things where either way works well.
I also tried applying the wax after rubbing with the steel wool. You can
still feel the wax on the wood.
*snip*
Puckdropper
Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
> the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
> glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
> a rag on a freshly Windexed window.
>
Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? My primary concern
would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.
Puckdropper
On 4/26/2011 12:00 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>
> I have been using a 0000 buffed finish on most of my
> turned bowls for quite sometime. Something I have
> found that really bring out the "c_________"(somebody
> spell the word for me) that really deep luster that
> makes you feel as if you are being drawn into the wood
> is a product called "Wood Cream." I have no idea where
> I got my jar, but it can be googled and ordered from
> the manufactorer in Washington State. It is entirely
> food safe and gives such a rich deep finish that I
> almost never open the can of Briwax that is sittiing
> under it.
"chatoyance" ... in French (at least in S Louisiana) it sorta equates to
the look in a cats eye.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Swingman wrote:
> On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:
>
>
>> Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit
>> of wood done with shellac.
>> I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a
>> glass like finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
>> Glass like in look and touch..
>> Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run
>
> It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
> Rubenesque.
>
> Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
> pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine
> too.
I prefer them off the aforementioned subject... or at least partially off...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 4/26/2011 6:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
> is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
> came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>
> The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
> and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.
To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a lubricant
for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.
Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.
(Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks
for the reminder! :) )
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> "chatoyance" ... in French (at least in S Louisiana) it sorta equates to
> the look in a cats eye.
Is that why I'm unable to maintain my cat's food limit when she sits there
and looks at me until I give her more?
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 4/26/2011 6:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish
>> that
>> is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when
>> I
>> came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>>
>> The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's
>> warm
>> and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.
>
> To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a lubricant
> for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.
>
> Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
> finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.
>
> (Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
> taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks for
> the reminder! :) )
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
done with shellac.
I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
Glass like in look and touch..
Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run
"Swingman" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On 4/26/2011 6:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
> is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
> came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>
> The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
> and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.
To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a lubricant
for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.
Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.
I learned that plain printer paper will work if you don't have a grocery bag
handy. Making those printed plans work twice. How GREEN is that?
In article <[email protected]>,
Puckdropper says...
>
> Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
> is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
> came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>
> The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
> and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.
Yep.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 07:15:21 -0500, Swingman wrote:
>
> > Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
> > taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks
> > for the reminder! :) )
>
> And thanks for reminding folks that waiting is a prerequisite before
> using any abrasive on shellac.
>
> To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
> vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind up on
> your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.
Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never had
it form little balls with steel wool.
In article <371216ef-f67e-4168-be03-f2d6c3e0d974
@p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
>
> On Apr 27, 12:35 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> > Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote innews:[email protected]:
> >
> >
> >
> > > If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
> > > the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
> > > glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
> > > a rag on a freshly Windexed window.
> >
> > Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? My primary concern
> > would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.
> >
> > Puckdropper
>
> That was my first question about the product. None
> that I can see, according to the MSDS.
If you want to be sure, then use the equivalent product from Meguiars or
3M (I think it would be Meguiars Swirl Remover M0916 or M0901 or 3M
Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish 06069, 06068, or 39062--the
different numbers are for different sizes). The Meguiars and 3M are
body-shop products and would be silicone-free. The Meguiars works fine
for me with lacquer and polyurethanes and has never given any kind of
problem.
In article <[email protected]>, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...
>
> "Father Haskell" wrote in message
> news:18ce71c1-5d79-4bca-8803-9dd60da55190@l36g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
>
> On Apr 27, 6:44 pm, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > In article <371216ef-f67e-4168-be03-f2d6c3e0d974
> > @p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Apr 27, 12:35 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> > > > Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote
> > > > innews:[email protected]:
> >
> > > > > If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
> > > > > the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
> > > > > glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
> > > > > a rag on a freshly Windexed window.
> >
> > > > Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? My primary
> > > > concern
> > > > would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.
> >
> > > > Puckdropper
> >
> > > That was my first question about the product. None
> > > that I can see, according to the MSDS.
> >
> > If you want to be sure, then use the equivalent product from Meguiars or
> > 3M (I think it would be Meguiars Swirl Remover M0916 or M0901 or 3M
> > Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish 06069, 06068, or 39062--the
> > different numbers are for different sizes). The Meguiars and 3M are
> > body-shop products and would be silicone-free. The Meguiars works fine
> > for me with lacquer and polyurethanes and has never given any kind of
> > problem.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> I'm biased toward Meguiar's, based on others'
> recommendations, shame Walmart didn't carry
> it.
>
> Meguiar's is a bit too upscale for WalMart.
Meguiars and 3M see themselves as making products for the professional
market. Only one store in this area (that I've been able to find and
that Meguiars is aware of) has a major portion of their product line,
and 3M you find only at automotive paint suppliers.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:14:30 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:
>>
>>>> To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
>>>> vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind
>>>> up on your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.
>>>
>>> Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never
>>> had it form little balls with steel wool.
>>
>> Probably harder to build the temperature as much because of the air
>> between the strands. I can assure you it happens with 600 or 800 grit
>> paper. I haven't tried the steel wool but will in the future.
>
> Steel wool is also a metal, which would act as heat sink and keep
> things cool.
>
>> For sandpaper I've had the best luck by waiting for a couple of weeks.
>>
>
> I just never got good results with sandpaper. It always seemed like
> it'd take more finish off than I wanted. (I didn't have any higher than
> 220 grit, though.)
>
> Puckdropper
I use a very fine wet and dry paper of anything up to 4000 for the final
finish, then some brown kraft paper with linseed of coarse.
I like the gloss finish it gives.
I have tried steel wool and I think 000 is the finest I have been able to
get
"Father Haskell" wrote in message
news:18ce71c1-5d79-4bca-8803-9dd60da55190@l36g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 27, 6:44 pm, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <371216ef-f67e-4168-be03-f2d6c3e0d974
> @p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 27, 12:35 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> > > Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote
> > > innews:[email protected]:
>
> > > > If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
> > > > the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
> > > > glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
> > > > a rag on a freshly Windexed window.
>
> > > Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? My primary
> > > concern
> > > would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.
>
> > > Puckdropper
>
> > That was my first question about the product. None
> > that I can see, according to the MSDS.
>
> If you want to be sure, then use the equivalent product from Meguiars or
> 3M (I think it would be Meguiars Swirl Remover M0916 or M0901 or 3M
> Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish 06069, 06068, or 39062--the
> different numbers are for different sizes). The Meguiars and 3M are
> body-shop products and would be silicone-free. The Meguiars works fine
> for me with lacquer and polyurethanes and has never given any kind of
> problem.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I'm biased toward Meguiar's, based on others'
recommendations, shame Walmart didn't carry
it.
Meguiar's is a bit too upscale for WalMart.
On 4/26/2011 12:34 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Apr 26, 11:48 am, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:
>>
>>> Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
>>> done with shellac.
>>> I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
>>> finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
>>> Glass like in look and touch..
>>> Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run
>>
>> It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
>> Rubenesque.
>>
>> Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
>> pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.
>>
>> --www.e-woodshop.net
>> Last update: 4/15/2010
>> KarlC@ (the obvious)
>
> 'Pleasingly plump'... now there's a mouthful.
> I never cared for the 'bag-o-antlers' look either. (Except Twiggy)
Or "just right" ... like Edie Brickell in 1994 at 2:28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqL1BLzn3qc
>
> The biggest problem with gloss, is that it tends to look like plastic.
> I once had the chance to see a Yamaha piano next to a Bösendorfer
> grand behind the same stage under the same light. Both shiny/glossy
> but the Boes was just nicer. Nicer to touch, nicer to look at, nicer
> reflection. I couldn't figure it out.
> Then, after a half hour it struck me.... the Boesendorfer was just a
> miniscule amount less shiny and maybe 1/2% less black towards the
> ebony side of things...ever so subtle. I suddenly understood how an
> expert can tell a cubic zirconium from a real diamondnot what it is,
> but what it isn't and in the Boesendorfer's case, it wasn't as black.
Good description of color blindness, not what is is but what it isn't
... like the space between the notes in good music.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>>
>> On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 07:15:21 -0500, Swingman wrote:
>>
>> > Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
>> > taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks
>> > for the reminder! :) )
>>
>> And thanks for reminding folks that waiting is a prerequisite before
>> using any abrasive on shellac.
>>
>> To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
>> vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind up on
>> your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.
>
> Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never had
> it form little balls with steel wool.
>
A midget has got little balls
"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
> Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
> finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.
> I learned that plain printer paper will work if you don't have a grocery
> bag handy. Making those printed plans work twice. How GREEN is that?
My brown paper bag green effort has a slightly different use. When I buy
alcohol at the liquor store, they put the bottle in a brown paper bag,
(plastic bag elimination effort going on). Once home, I save the brown paper
bags and then use them for cooking. With a section of brown paper bag
lightly covered with non stick cooking spray, I cover a roast chicken for
the first 3/4 of the cooking cycle. It prevents overcooking and keeps the
chicken juicier. (Traditional Mom cooking tip)
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
>> Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
>> finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.
>
>> I learned that plain printer paper will work if you don't have a grocery
>> bag handy. Making those printed plans work twice. How GREEN is that?
>
> My brown paper bag green effort has a slightly different use. When I buy
> alcohol at the liquor store, they put the bottle in a brown paper bag,
> (plastic bag elimination effort going on). Once home, I save the brown
> paper bags and then use them for cooking. With a section of brown paper
> bag lightly covered with non stick cooking spray, I cover a roast chicken
> for the first 3/4 of the cooking cycle. It prevents overcooking and keeps
> the chicken juicier. (Traditional Mom cooking tip)
>
But, do you recycle your grog bottles ?
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4db70f2d$0$773$c3e8da3
[email protected]:
>
> "Swingman" wrote:
>> To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a
>> lubricant for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.
> ---------------------------------
> SFWIW, bee's wax cut with turps and BLO works for me.
>
> Keep a 1# coffee can with the above sealed and ready to go.
>
> Use the coffee can as part of a double boiler to melt wax.
>
> YMMV
>
> Lew
That doesn't work anymore, since the coffee "cans" are now made of
cardboard ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 26 Apr 2011 11:20:46 GMT, Puckdropper
>> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>
>>>Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish
>>>that is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days
>>>ago when I came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>>>
>>>The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's
>>>warm and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it
>>>turns out.
>>
>> Yeah, and try waxing your Johnson. Oops, I meant to say "Try applying
>> Johnson's Paste Wax with 0000 steel wool." It produces a wood with a
>> wunnerful "hand". That's why I prefer the hand-rubbed oil finishes.
>> You can still feel the wood underneath.
>
> It does produce a different finish. A little higher sheen, but just
> as smooth. I haven't decided if I like it better, it might be one of
> those things where either way works well.
>
> I also tried applying the wax after rubbing with the steel wool. You
> can still feel the wax on the wood.
>
> *snip*
>
> Puckdropper
I applied multiple thin layers of Johnson paste wax using 0000 steel
wool, and then a car polisher to polish the dried wax (>1 hour). The
finish is glass smooth and low satiny shine. On my pine blanket chest
it has lasted decades ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On Apr 26, 1:34=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 26, 11:48=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:
>
> > > Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit =
of wood
> > > done with shellac.
> > > I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glas=
s like
> > > finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
> > > Glass like in look and touch..
> > > Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run
>
> > It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
> > Rubenesque.
>
> > Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
> > pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.
>
> > --www.e-woodshop.net
> > Last update: 4/15/2010
> > KarlC@ (the obvious)
>
> 'Pleasingly plump'... now there's a mouthful.
> I never cared for the 'bag-o-antlers' look either. (Except Twiggy)
>
> The biggest problem with gloss, is that it tends to look like plastic.
Or feel like plastic. Not the case with shellac, which can
be rubbed out or French polished to a cold, glasslike sheen,
in both appearance and feel.
> I once had the chance to see a Yamaha piano next to a B=F6sendorfer
> grand behind the same stage under the same light. Both shiny/glossy
> but the Boes was just nicer. Nicer to touch, nicer to look at, nicer
> reflection. I couldn't figure it out.
> Then, after a half hour it struck me.... the Boesendorfer was just a
> miniscule amount less shiny and maybe 1/2% less black towards the
> ebony side of things...ever so subtle. I suddenly understood how an
> expert can tell a cubic zirconium from a real diamond=97not what it is,
> but what it isn't and in the Boesendorfer's case, it wasn't as black.- Hi=
de quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:
> Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
> done with shellac.
> I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
> finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
> Glass like in look and touch..
> Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run
It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
Rubenesque.
Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Apr 26, 7:20=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish tha=
t
> is flat and smooth. =A0I did not know this until a couple of days ago whe=
n I
> came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>
> The difference is drastic. =A0The wood feels completely different; it's w=
arm =A0
> and extremely smoooth. =A0I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.
>
> Puckdropper
If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
a rag on a freshly Windexed window.
On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 07:15:21 -0500, Swingman wrote:
> Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
> taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks
> for the reminder! :) )
And thanks for reminding folks that waiting is a prerequisite before
using any abrasive on shellac.
To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind up on
your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:14:30 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:
>> To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
>> vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind up
>> on your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.
>
> Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never had
> it form little balls with steel wool.
Probably harder to build the temperature as much because of the air
between the strands. I can assure you it happens with 600 or 800 grit
paper. I haven't tried the steel wool but will in the future.
For sandpaper I've had the best luck by waiting for a couple of weeks.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On 4/26/2011 7:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
> is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
> came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>
> The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
> and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.
Yes, particularly on hardwoods. I spray it on, let it dry a bit, spray
it again. On the lathe, I just wipe it on with a rag. Can't say I like
it much on Pine or softwoods so much. 0000 is the way to go.
I sometimes use it to seal pool cue shafts and apply it with a rag. Let
it dry for 15-20 minutes (it drys almost immediately on a spinning
lathe) and then sand it "all" off with 600 grit and or a magic eraser.
You can't really get it all off, so what is left is a nicely sealed
smooth shaft.
--
Jack
You're never too old to learn something stupid.
http://jbstein.com
On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 12:44:51 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 4/26/2011 12:34 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>> On Apr 26, 11:48 am, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:
>>>
>>>> Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
>>>> done with shellac.
>>>> I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
>>>> finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
>>>> Glass like in look and touch..
>>>> Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run
>>>
>>> It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
>>> Rubenesque.
>>>
>>> Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
>>> pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.
>>>
>>> --www.e-woodshop.net
>>> Last update: 4/15/2010
>>> KarlC@ (the obvious)
>>
>> 'Pleasingly plump'... now there's a mouthful.
Too close to FAT! I prefer petite women, so fat ain't happenin'.
Built-like-a-brick-shithouse is OK. (Sports figure, like Sharapova,
but she's too tall.)
>> I never cared for the 'bag-o-antlers' look either. (Except Twiggy)
>
>Or "just right" ... like Edie Brickell in 1994 at 2:28
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqL1BLzn3qc
Yeah, not bad at all.
Her best song of all time (and a good video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDl3bdE3YQA&feature=related
"Philosophy, is the talk on a cereal box."
"Religion, is a smile on a dog." ;)
--
Make up your mind to act decidedly and take the consequences.
No good is ever done in this world by hesitation.
-- Thomas H. Huxley
I have been using a 0000 buffed finish on most of my
turned bowls for quite sometime. Something I have
found that really bring out the "c_________"(somebody
spell the word for me) that really deep luster that
makes you feel as if you are being drawn into the wood
is a product called "Wood Cream." I have no idea where
I got my jar, but it can be googled and ordered from
the manufactorer in Washington State. It is entirely
food safe and gives such a rich deep finish that I
almost never open the can of Briwax that is sittiing
under it.
Before any of you shouts - no I do not live under a
bridge. ;-)
Deb
wrote:
> Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful
low-gloss finish that
> is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a
couple of days ago when I
> came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>
> The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely
different; it's warm
> and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how
nicely it turns out.
>
> Puckdropper
On 26 Apr 2011 11:20:46 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
>is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
>came across some steel wool that had been left out.
>
>The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
>and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.
Yeah, and try waxing your Johnson. Oops, I meant to say "Try applying
Johnson's Paste Wax with 0000 steel wool." It produces a wood with a
wunnerful "hand". That's why I prefer the hand-rubbed oil finishes.
You can still feel the wood underneath.
I tried Behlen's Rockhard Table Top Finish on the dining set I
recycled and it left a nice, hard, shiny, but PLASTIC finish.
Tiny scratches show up from repairing tools on it, too. <sigh>
Newp, no mo. I'll stick with Waterlox, my fave finish.
--
Make up your mind to act decidedly and take the consequences.
No good is ever done in this world by hesitation.
-- Thomas H. Huxley