On Nov 28, 4:36=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/28/2010 3:26 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> > Swingman wrote:
>
> >> A set of Forstner bits is nice to have on hand ... one of the items
> >> worthy of buying in "sets".
>
> > Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece se=
t
> > Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>
> >http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B00002...
>
> Personally, I would go with the steel versions, Bill.
>
> Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy a
> premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
>
> I think I paid $40+ for mine some ten years ago and it has drilled lots
> of hinge holes for cabinet doors. It is one Forstner I would replace
> immediately if it were lost, stolen or damaged.
>
> FWIW ...
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
..and get one with a stubby pilot nib. Many Forstner nibs are long
enough to poke through the front of the door should you decide to sink
a cup into a 5/8" thick door.
"Bill" wrote:
> Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece
> set Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B0000225ZL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290978981&sr=8-1
-------------------------------------
That set does not include a 7/8" bit, need to buy it as a loose item.
SFWIW, for sizes below 5/8", a brad point drill does a better job of
clearing waste.
IMHO, a brad point drill bit set for smaller sizes is a high
priority.
BTDT, have the T-Shirt.
Lew
I agree with that/
second choice, depending on how many times: Pilot holes of x-diameter
followed by a counterbore with pilot, also of x diameter. More on
drilling:
http://patwarner.com/drill_press_essentials.html
*******************************************
Nov 27, 6:40=A0pm, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm assuming that if trying to drill overlapping 3/8" holes in the side
> of 2by4 stock, that using forstner bits will be much easier than using
> ordinary drill bits. =A0 This is true, isn't it?
>
> Bill
On 11/28/2010 6:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/28/10 5:12 PM, Swing man wrote:
>> On 11/28/2010 4:53 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> Swingman wrote:
>>>
>>>> Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy
>>>> a premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
>>> ------------------------
>>> FC-107 includes 1-3/8" (35 mm) bit.
>>>
>>> FC-107 is great set, just need to recognize it's limits.
>>
>> The 1 3/8 is just a tad oversize, IME, with just a bit too much play.
>>
>> I prefer the metric version. YMMV ...
>>
>
> Does it matter once the two screws are in?
Not when the screws are in, but it makes the alignment of the hinge cup
plate _before_ the screw holes are drilled a good deal fussier, even
when using a Vix bit.
Not a big deal when doing one or two, but on three dozen plus doors it
slows the process down, inexcusable when a precise fit is as close as
using the correct tool to start with.
The more you do, the more you appreciate the details .. and attention to
detail _is_ the difference between mediocrity and supremacy.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On 11/28/2010 5:20 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Nov 28, 6:15 pm, Robatoy<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Nov 28, 4:36 pm, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 11/28/2010 3:26 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>>>> Swingman wrote:
>>
>>>>> A set of Forstner bits is nice to have on hand ... one of the items
>>>>> worthy of buying in "sets".
>>
>>>> Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece set
>>>> Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>>
>>>> http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B00002...
>>
>>> Personally, I would go with the steel versions, Bill.
>>
>>> Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy a
>>> premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
>>
>>> I think I paid $40+ for mine some ten years ago and it has drilled lots
>>> of hinge holes for cabinet doors. It is one Forstner I would replace
>>> immediately if it were lost, stolen or damaged.
>>
>>> FWIW ...
>>
>>> --www.e-woodshop.net
>>> Last update: 4/15/2010
>>> KarlC@ (the obvious)
>>
>> ..and get one with a stubby pilot nib. Many Forstner nibs are long
>> enough to poke through the front of the door should you decide to sink
>> a cup into a 5/8" thick door.
>
> DAMHIKT
BTDT, eh?
Shheeeeesh ... what online corruption of grammatical and speeling!
Beware, the grammer, police ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On 11/28/2010 12:27 AM, Bill wrote:
> Jerry, the reason for the question was because a family member asked
> what I wanted for Christmas. I was thinking of saying a Forstner bit.
> My drill press is schedule to arrive in January. Sorry for any
> inconvenience.
A set of Forstner bits is nice to have on hand ... one of the items
worthy of buying in "sets".
Forstners work well in a hand held drill also, don't necessarily need a
DP to use them.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> routerman wrote:
> > I agree with that/
> > second choice, depending on how many times: Pilot holes of x-diameter
> > followed by a counterbore with pilot, also of x diameter. More on
> > drilling:
> > http://patwarner.com/drill_press_essentials.html
> > *******************************************
>
> Actually, I'm just drilling 3/8" out to hog-out the wood for a mortise
> before I come back with a 1/2" diameter router bit. I'll build a decent
> jig to help sure nothing goes wrong...and drilling out most of the wood
> to be removed seems like a worthwhile "extra" step to take.
>
> It appears that the secret to woodworking is in contemplating, in
> advance, and dealing with every single possible thing that could go
> wrong! Your comments at your site seem consistent with that! :)
Is your router seriously underpowered or something? If you were
mortising by hand I'd see a point to this, but if you are using a router
anyway, just go through with a 3/8 bit first--be a lot less effort than
drilling overlapping holes.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Jerry - OHIO wrote:
> > I find if I go out and try something and fail,I find a different way to
> > do it. That' called learning. Aren't you over yeur 'WHY, WHY, WHY,DADDY'
> > stage in life ??
> >
> >
>
> Jerry, the reason for the question was because a family member asked
> what I wanted for Christmas. I was thinking of saying a Forstner bit.
> My drill press is schedule to arrive in January. Sorry for any
> inconvenience.
A good set of Forstners is worth having regardless.
In article <[email protected]>, tiredofspam
says...
>
> let me add to this, make sure you are using an upcut spiral bit so it
> clears the waste.
I thought about saying that, but a straight bit will work if he already
has one--may need to make a couple or three passes though.
If Bill is going to go out and buy a spiral bit for this, I'd _strongly_
recommend steel, not carbide--it's one of the few places where I'd make
that recommendation. The reason is that carbide spiral bits are solid
carbide, not steel with carbide flutes, and while they're very hard,
they're also brittle and _real_ easy to bust (and by that I mean into
two or more pieces in a way that is not repairable). Somebody with a
lot of experience with the router and spiral bits can use carbide first
time out, but Bill's trying to learn and for that steel will be more
forgiving. I wish someone had told _me_ that before I busted a few
hundred bucks worth of carbide spiral bits.
>
> On 11/28/2010 5:31 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> > In article<[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> >>
> >> routerman wrote:
> >>> I agree with that/
> >>> second choice, depending on how many times: Pilot holes of x-diameter
> >>> followed by a counterbore with pilot, also of x diameter. More on
> >>> drilling:
> >>> http://patwarner.com/drill_press_essentials.html
> >>> *******************************************
> >>
> >> Actually, I'm just drilling 3/8" out to hog-out the wood for a mortise
> >> before I come back with a 1/2" diameter router bit. I'll build a decent
> >> jig to help sure nothing goes wrong...and drilling out most of the wood
> >> to be removed seems like a worthwhile "extra" step to take.
> >>
> >> It appears that the secret to woodworking is in contemplating, in
> >> advance, and dealing with every single possible thing that could go
> >> wrong! Your comments at your site seem consistent with that! :)
> >
> > Is your router seriously underpowered or something? If you were
> > mortising by hand I'd see a point to this, but if you are using a router
> > anyway, just go through with a 3/8 bit first--be a lot less effort than
> > drilling overlapping holes.
> >
> >
> >
> >
let me add to this, make sure you are using an upcut spiral bit so it
clears the waste.
On 11/28/2010 5:31 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>>
>> routerman wrote:
>>> I agree with that/
>>> second choice, depending on how many times: Pilot holes of x-diameter
>>> followed by a counterbore with pilot, also of x diameter. More on
>>> drilling:
>>> http://patwarner.com/drill_press_essentials.html
>>> *******************************************
>>
>> Actually, I'm just drilling 3/8" out to hog-out the wood for a mortise
>> before I come back with a 1/2" diameter router bit. I'll build a decent
>> jig to help sure nothing goes wrong...and drilling out most of the wood
>> to be removed seems like a worthwhile "extra" step to take.
>>
>> It appears that the secret to woodworking is in contemplating, in
>> advance, and dealing with every single possible thing that could go
>> wrong! Your comments at your site seem consistent with that! :)
>
> Is your router seriously underpowered or something? If you were
> mortising by hand I'd see a point to this, but if you are using a router
> anyway, just go through with a 3/8 bit first--be a lot less effort than
> drilling overlapping holes.
>
>
>
>
On 11/28/2010 3:26 PM, Bill wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>
>> A set of Forstner bits is nice to have on hand ... one of the items
>> worthy of buying in "sets".
>
>
> Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece set
> Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B0000225ZL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290978981&sr=8-1
Personally, I would go with the steel versions, Bill.
Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy a
premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
I think I paid $40+ for mine some ten years ago and it has drilled lots
of hinge holes for cabinet doors. It is one Forstner I would replace
immediately if it were lost, stolen or damaged.
FWIW ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Sat, 27 Nov 2010 23:57:23 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>routerman wrote:
>> I agree with that/
>> second choice, depending on how many times: Pilot holes of x-diameter
>> followed by a counterbore with pilot, also of x diameter. More on
>> drilling:
>> http://patwarner.com/drill_press_essentials.html
>> *******************************************
>
>Actually, I'm just drilling 3/8" out to hog-out the wood for a mortise
>before I come back with a 1/2" diameter router bit. I'll build a decent
>jig to help sure nothing goes wrong...and drilling out most of the wood
>to be removed seems like a worthwhile "extra" step to take.
There's absolutely no need for that, Bill. Router bits have been
doing those for years and years without drilling. If you feel the
need so deeply, go pick up a chisel mortiser.
http://fwd4.me/q3E HF or the one I got from Griz:
http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-W1671-Heavy-duty-Mortising/dp/B000J0UTL6
>It appears that the secret to woodworking is in contemplating, in
>advance, and dealing with every single possible thing that could go
>wrong!
You forgot "And then proceeding to -do- some of them."
--
Education should provide the tools for a widening and deepening
of life, for increased appreciation of all one sees or experiences.
It should equip a person to live life well, to understand what is
happening around him, for to live life well one must live life with
awareness. -- Louis L'Amour
On 11/28/2010 4:53 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>
>> Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy
>> a premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
> ------------------------
> FC-107 includes 1-3/8" (35 mm) bit.
>
> FC-107 is great set, just need to recognize it's limits.
The 1 3/8 is just a tad oversize, IME, with just a bit too much play.
I prefer the metric version. YMMV ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Nov 28, 6:15=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 28, 4:36=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 11/28/2010 3:26 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> > > Swingman wrote:
>
> > >> A set of Forstner bits is nice to have on hand ... one of the items
> > >> worthy of buying in "sets".
>
> > > Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece =
set
> > > Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>
> > >http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B00002.=
..
>
> > Personally, I would go with the steel versions, Bill.
>
> > Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy a
> > premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
>
> > I think I paid $40+ for mine some ten years ago and it has drilled lots
> > of hinge holes for cabinet doors. It is one Forstner I would replace
> > immediately if it were lost, stolen or damaged.
>
> > FWIW ...
>
> > --www.e-woodshop.net
> > Last update: 4/15/2010
> > KarlC@ (the obvious)
>
> ..and get one with a stubby pilot nib. Many Forstner nibs are long
> enough to poke through the front of the door should you decide to sink
> a cup into a 5/8" thick door.
DAMHIKT
On Sun, 28 Nov 2010 18:05:08 -0800, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 28 Nov 2010 16:14:57 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>BTW, this week I started reading: Tool-Making Projects for Joinery and
>>Woodworking, by Olesin. Lots of details. Starts off by showing how to
>>make 3 different kinds of mortising guages, for instance. No
>>blacksmithing techniques in the book. Advises cutting a circ-saw blade
>>with a hack-saw to make cutters. Nice book for anyone who wants to do
>>(perhaps put on your Christmas list?).
>
>I'll check it out.
OH, NO! There's a bow saw in there...
Don't get us started on THAT one again. <bseg>
--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson
On 11/28/2010 5:17 PM, Bill wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Bill" wrote:
>>
>>> Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece
>>> set Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>>>
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B0000225ZL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290978981&sr=8-1
>>>
>>
>> -------------------------------------
>> That set does not include a 7/8" bit, need to buy it as a loose item.
>>
>> SFWIW, for sizes below 5/8", a brad point drill does a better job of
>> clearing waste.
>
> Thank you. I'll look into getting a set of brad point drill bits.
Brad points are mandatory, but don't expect them to replace the smaller
Forstners for all jobs. Drilling table top clips comes immediately to
mind, where a 5/8" Forstner shines:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=786
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
routerman wrote:
> I agree with that/
> second choice, depending on how many times: Pilot holes of x-diameter
> followed by a counterbore with pilot, also of x diameter. More on
> drilling:
> http://patwarner.com/drill_press_essentials.html
> *******************************************
Actually, I'm just drilling 3/8" out to hog-out the wood for a mortise
before I come back with a 1/2" diameter router bit. I'll build a decent
jig to help sure nothing goes wrong...and drilling out most of the wood
to be removed seems like a worthwhile "extra" step to take.
It appears that the secret to woodworking is in contemplating, in
advance, and dealing with every single possible thing that could go
wrong! Your comments at your site seem consistent with that! :)
Thanks,
Bill
>
> Nov 27, 6:40 pm, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>> I'm assuming that if trying to drill overlapping 3/8" holes in the side
>> of 2by4 stock, that using forstner bits will be much easier than using
>> ordinary drill bits. This is true, isn't it?
>>
>> Bill
>
Jerry - OHIO wrote:
> I find if I go out and try something and fail,I find a different way to
> do it. That' called learning. Aren't you over yeur 'WHY, WHY, WHY?" stage in life ??
Most definitely not! I spend more time failing than succeeding. I'm
lucky doorways are cut taller than I am and are open half the time! : )
I get up in the morning and go to bed at night asking WHY, WHY, WHY!
I doubt I'll outgrow it--at least, I hope not. If I do, I might die.
Bill
Jerry - OHIO wrote:
> I find if I go out and try something and fail,I find a different way to
> do it. That' called learning. Aren't you over yeur 'WHY, WHY, WHY,DADDY'
> stage in life ??
>
>
Jerry, the reason for the question was because a family member asked
what I wanted for Christmas. I was thinking of saying a Forstner bit.
My drill press is schedule to arrive in January. Sorry for any
inconvenience.
Bill
J. Clarke wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, tiredofspam
> says...
>>
>> let me add to this, make sure you are using an upcut spiral bit so it
>> clears the waste.
>
> I thought about saying that, but a straight bit will work if he already
> has one--may need to make a couple or three passes though.
>
> If Bill is going to go out and buy a spiral bit for this, I'd _strongly_
> recommend steel, not carbide--it's one of the few places where I'd make
> that recommendation. The reason is that carbide spiral bits are solid
> carbide, not steel with carbide flutes, and while they're very hard,
> they're also brittle and _real_ easy to bust (and by that I mean into
> two or more pieces in a way that is not repairable). Somebody with a
> lot of experience with the router and spiral bits can use carbide first
> time out, but Bill's trying to learn and for that steel will be more
> forgiving. I wish someone had told _me_ that before I busted a few
> hundred bucks worth of carbide spiral bits.
>
FWIW, I already bought a Amana Carbide-tipped 2" plunge bit (#45426).
Swingman gave me a little education on router bits this summer. Someone
else I belive suggested hogging-out some of the wood first. Still seems
like a good idea to me as these are not "upcut" spiral bits.
Bill
Larry Jaques wrote:
>> It appears that the secret to woodworking is in contemplating, in
>> advance, and dealing with every single possible thing that could go
>> wrong!
>
> You forgot "And then proceeding to -do- some of them."
I was just fixin' to get started DOING when I was talked into rewiring
my whole "shop"! : ) Admittedly, I didn't realize, even as I
started, just how much it needed it. In the process, with the help of
the kind folks here I installed a sub-panel, wired 11 electrical boxes,
installed insulation, installed about 500 square feet of drywall, ...,
fixed a RO-water purification system, replace a garbage disposal.
Admittedly, I could do more woodworking if it weren't for my job. One
this is constant--I try to learn something new everyday! :) Oh, and
I'm not a tool-collector--just like Roy!
BTW, this week I started reading: Tool-Making Projects for Joinery and
Woodworking, by Olesin. Lots of details. Starts off by showing how to
make 3 different kinds of mortising guages, for instance. No
blacksmithing techniques in the book. Advises cutting a circ-saw blade
with a hack-saw to make cutters. Nice book for anyone who wants to do
(perhaps put on your Christmas list?).
Bill
Swingman wrote:
> A set of Forstner bits is nice to have on hand ... one of the items
> worthy of buying in "sets".
Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece set
Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B0000225ZL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290978981&sr=8-1
Bill
Swingman wrote:
> On 11/28/2010 3:26 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Swingman wrote:
>>
>>> A set of Forstner bits is nice to have on hand ... one of the items
>>> worthy of buying in "sets".
>>
>>
>> Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece set
>> Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B0000225ZL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290978981&sr=8-1
>>
>
> Personally, I would go with the steel versions, Bill.
>
> Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy a
> premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
Em.. I had read that the 1 3/16 bit was for "European Style" cabinet
door hingle holes. Evidently, from your post, 35mm is the size I would
require (instead). Without a good use for the big bit, it is difficult
to justify the set price. I'll look again. Thank you for your help.
Bill
>
> I think I paid $40+ for mine some ten years ago and it has drilled lots
> of hinge holes for cabinet doors. It is one Forstner I would replace
> immediately if it were lost, stolen or damaged.
>
> FWIW ...
>
On 11/28/10 4:49 PM, Bill wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>> On 11/28/2010 3:26 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Swingman wrote:
>>>
>>>> A set of Forstner bits is nice to have on hand ... one of the items
>>>> worthy of buying in "sets".
>>>
>>>
>>> Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece set
>>> Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>>>
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B0000225ZL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290978981&sr=8-1
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Personally, I would go with the steel versions, Bill.
>>
>> Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy a
>> premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
>
> Em.. I had read that the 1 3/16 bit was for "European Style" cabinet
> door hingle holes. Evidently, from your post, 35mm is the size I would
> require (instead). Without a good use for the big bit, it is difficult
> to justify the set price. I'll look again. Thank you for your help.
>
> Bill
>
You need the metric sized bit for those absolutely.
Makes those hinges a piece of cake to install, and I just measured by
hand with a tape measure and a square for the offset and drilled them
with a cordless.
Only hung about five doors with mine, just around my house, but two were
eight feet tall, three hinges per door, went up flawlessly.
>>
>> I think I paid $40+ for mine some ten years ago and it has drilled lots
>> of hinge holes for cabinet doors. It is one Forstner I would replace
>> immediately if it were lost, stolen or damaged.
>>
>> FWIW ...
>>
>
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece
>> set Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B0000225ZL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290978981&sr=8-1
>
> -------------------------------------
> That set does not include a 7/8" bit, need to buy it as a loose item.
>
> SFWIW, for sizes below 5/8", a brad point drill does a better job of
> clearing waste.
Thank you. I'll look into getting a set of brad point drill bits.
Bill
>
> IMHO, a brad point drill bit set for smaller sizes is a high
> priority.
>
> BTDT, have the T-Shirt.
>
> Lew
>
>
On 11/28/10 5:12 PM, Swing man wrote:
> On 11/28/2010 4:53 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Swingman wrote:
>>
>>> Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy
>>> a premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
>> ------------------------
>> FC-107 includes 1-3/8" (35 mm) bit.
>>
>> FC-107 is great set, just need to recognize it's limits.
>
> The 1 3/8 is just a tad oversize, IME, with just a bit too much play.
>
> I prefer the metric version. YMMV ...
>
Does it matter once the two screws are in?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/28/10 7:24 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/28/2010 6:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/28/10 5:12 PM, Swing man wrote:
>>> On 11/28/2010 4:53 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>> Swingman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Also, if you plan on doing any cabinetry, you will also want to buy
>>>>> a premium steel 35mm Forstner bit for drilling door hinge holes.
>>>> ------------------------
>>>> FC-107 includes 1-3/8" (35 mm) bit.
>>>>
>>>> FC-107 is great set, just need to recognize it's limits.
>>>
>>> The 1 3/8 is just a tad oversize, IME, with just a bit too much play.
>>>
>>> I prefer the metric version. YMMV ...
>>>
>>
>> Does it matter once the two screws are in?
>
> Not when the screws are in, but it makes the alignment of the hinge cup
> plate _before_ the screw holes are drilled a good deal fussier, even
> when using a Vix bit.
>
> Not a big deal when doing one or two, but on three dozen plus doors it
> slows the process down, inexcusable when a precise fit is as close as
> using the correct tool to start with.
>
> The more you do, the more you appreciate the details .. and attention to
> detail _is_ the difference between mediocrity and supremacy.
>
Ain't that the truth. I haven't done hundreds of those hinges, but I've
done enough to notice the vast quality difference between them.
Some appear to be stamped from recycled soda cans.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Swingman wrote:
> On 11/28/2010 5:17 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> "Bill" wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thinking that you may be right, I was considering buying the 7-piece
>>>> set Freud FC-107 (currently $140):
>>>>
>>>> http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FC-107-7-Piece-Carbide-Forstner/dp/B0000225ZL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290978981&sr=8-1
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> -------------------------------------
>>> That set does not include a 7/8" bit, need to buy it as a loose item.
>>>
>>> SFWIW, for sizes below 5/8", a brad point drill does a better job of
>>> clearing waste.
>>
>> Thank you. I'll look into getting a set of brad point drill bits.
>
> Brad points are mandatory, but don't expect them to replace the smaller
> Forstners for all jobs. Drilling table top clips comes immediately to
> mind, where a 5/8" Forstner shines:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=786
Reading about those was a nice little lesson itself.
Thanks,
Bill
On Sun, 28 Nov 2010 16:14:57 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>>> It appears that the secret to woodworking is in contemplating, in
>>> advance, and dealing with every single possible thing that could go
>>> wrong!
>>
>> You forgot "And then proceeding to -do- some of them."
>
>I was just fixin' to get started DOING when I was talked into rewiring
>my whole "shop"! : )
No, I meant "proceeding to do some things wrong."
>Admittedly, I didn't realize, even as I
>started, just how much it needed it. In the process, with the help of
>the kind folks here I installed a sub-panel, wired 11 electrical boxes,
>installed insulation, installed about 500 square feet of drywall, ...,
>fixed a RO-water purification system, replace a garbage disposal.
I get entangled in my own HoneyDo lists here, and I'm single.
>Admittedly, I could do more woodworking if it weren't for my job. One
>this is constant--I try to learn something new everyday! :) Oh, and
Megadittoes.
>I'm not a tool-collector--just like Roy!
IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC,
IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC,
IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC,
IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, IANATC, I don't think.
>BTW, this week I started reading: Tool-Making Projects for Joinery and
>Woodworking, by Olesin. Lots of details. Starts off by showing how to
>make 3 different kinds of mortising guages, for instance. No
>blacksmithing techniques in the book. Advises cutting a circ-saw blade
>with a hack-saw to make cutters. Nice book for anyone who wants to do
>(perhaps put on your Christmas list?).
I'll check it out.
--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson
On Sun, 28 Nov 2010 01:22:15 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Jerry - OHIO wrote:
>> I find if I go out and try something and fail,I find a different way to
>> do it. That' called learning. Aren't you over yeur 'WHY, WHY, WHY?" stage in life ??
>
>Most definitely not! I spend more time failing than succeeding. I'm
>lucky doorways are cut taller than I am and are open half the time! : )
Y'all might be wantin' ta gets you a better attitude, son.
--
Education should provide the tools for a widening and deepening
of life, for increased appreciation of all one sees or experiences.
It should equip a person to live life well, to understand what is
happening around him, for to live life well one must live life with
awareness. -- Louis L'Amour
"Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> It appears that the secret to woodworking is in contemplating, in advance,
> and dealing with every single possible thing that could go wrong!
Exactly, and having figured out in advance everything that could go wrong
means you are unprepared and thus open-minded when unforeseen things go
wrong during the actual woodworking. This learning to recognize a mistake
when we have made it again is the key to quality workmanship (which mostly
consists of knowing how to hide mistakes).