have a set of 3 maple turning blanks that I recieved from a friend
who works for a tree service company. The 3 blanks are about 6
inches
across and about a foot or so long each. They were cut last week and
appear to be branches. They are all straight and look to be some
clean looking blanks. The bark is still attached. How long should I
wait to let these dry before I attempt to mount them on a lathe and
turn them?? Should I strip the bark off now to help them dry out
better? Most of the turning I have done is with glue ups of various
species of KD stock, so the drying and possible splitting, checking
and cracking that comes with fresh cut logs is new to me. Any one
have any first hand experience with this kind of thing or any advice
you'd be willing to share?? Thanks!!
Leuf wrote:
> On 12 Sep 2007 05:17:01 GMT, Puckdropper <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> That's correct, but turning wet maple is a lot of fun, and easier than
>>> letting it dry first. Turn it down to about 10% of the starting
>>> diameter, or about 3/4" to 1", and let it dry slowly ona paper bag,
>>> with a couple of handfuls of shavings. In a month, or two, reload,
>>> and finish it off.
>>>
>>> Or turn it to finish now, and let it move.
>>>
>>> Patriarch
>>>
>> The way you've said that, you want the OP to take a 6" piece of wood and
>> turn it down to 1". That's a whole heck of a lot of waste. Are you
>> selling a "make your own chipboard kit"?
>
> I think he meant get to rough size leaving 3/4-1" wall thickness but
> it didn't come out right. I could be wrong.
>
>
> -Leuf
You're right.
Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> That's correct, but turning wet maple is a lot of fun, and easier than
> letting it dry first. Turn it down to about 10% of the starting
> diameter, or about 3/4" to 1", and let it dry slowly ona paper bag,
> with a couple of handfuls of shavings. In a month, or two, reload,
> and finish it off.
>
> Or turn it to finish now, and let it move.
>
> Patriarch
>
The way you've said that, you want the OP to take a 6" piece of wood and
turn it down to 1". That's a whole heck of a lot of waste. Are you
selling a "make your own chipboard kit"?
Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Tue, 11 Sep 2007 17:29:02 -0700, marc wrote:
>
>> Most of the turning I have done is with glue ups of various
>> species of KD stock, so the drying and possible splitting, checking
>> and cracking that comes with fresh cut logs is new to me. Any one
>> have any first hand experience with this kind of thing or any advice
>> you'd be willing to share?? Thanks!!
>
> You'd probably get more advice in rec.crafts.woodturning but here's my
> 2 cents worth.
>
> Split the logs in half such that the pith is thrown away and coat the
> ends with green wood end sealer. If I've got wood that likes to split
> such as fruit wood, I coat everything but the bark.
>
>
That's correct, but turning wet maple is a lot of fun, and easier than
letting it dry first. Turn it down to about 10% of the starting diameter,
or about 3/4" to 1", and let it dry slowly ona paper bag, with a couple of
handfuls of shavings. In a month, or two, reload, and finish it off.
Or turn it to finish now, and let it move.
Patriarch
Puckdropper <[email protected]> wrote in news:46e7764c$0$47124$892e7fe2
@authen.yellow.readfreenews.net:
> Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> That's correct, but turning wet maple is a lot of fun, and easier than
>> letting it dry first. Turn it down to about 10% of the starting
>> diameter, or about 3/4" to 1", and let it dry slowly ona paper bag,
>> with a couple of handfuls of shavings. In a month, or two, reload,
>> and finish it off.
>>
>> Or turn it to finish now, and let it move.
>>
>> Patriarch
>>
>
> The way you've said that, you want the OP to take a 6" piece of wood and
> turn it down to 1". That's a whole heck of a lot of waste. Are you
> selling a "make your own chipboard kit"?
>
> Puckdropper
Well, that's how bowls are often made. You could use a coring or bowlsaver
tool, but the raw material is firewood, for the most part, $225 a cord
delivered.
Your choice, of course.
Patriarch
On 12 Sep 2007 05:17:01 GMT, Puckdropper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> That's correct, but turning wet maple is a lot of fun, and easier than
>> letting it dry first. Turn it down to about 10% of the starting
>> diameter, or about 3/4" to 1", and let it dry slowly ona paper bag,
>> with a couple of handfuls of shavings. In a month, or two, reload,
>> and finish it off.
>>
>> Or turn it to finish now, and let it move.
>>
>> Patriarch
>>
>
>The way you've said that, you want the OP to take a 6" piece of wood and
>turn it down to 1". That's a whole heck of a lot of waste. Are you
>selling a "make your own chipboard kit"?
I think he meant get to rough size leaving 3/4-1" wall thickness but
it didn't come out right. I could be wrong.
-Leuf
On Tue, 11 Sep 2007 17:29:02 -0700, marc wrote:
> Most of the turning I have done is with glue ups of various
> species of KD stock, so the drying and possible splitting, checking
> and cracking that comes with fresh cut logs is new to me. Any one
> have any first hand experience with this kind of thing or any advice
> you'd be willing to share?? Thanks!!
You'd probably get more advice in rec.crafts.woodturning but here's my 2
cents worth.
Split the logs in half such that the pith is thrown away and coat the ends
with green wood end sealer. If I've got wood that likes to split such as
fruit wood, I coat everything but the bark.