r

01/12/2005 7:54 AM

Newbie Question - Staining woods species in certain "standard" ways

I'm confused as to why certain woods are stained in certain traditional
ways. For example, I have some raw cherry that is very light. I feel
pretty confident that if varnished or oiled it would look completely
unlike the two "Cherry" finishes I commonly see -- a very dark brown or
a much lighter brown with red in it. Why would these be called "cherry
finish" when they look nothing like what cherry looks like when not
stained and just finished.


This topic has 9 replies

Br

Ba r r y

in reply to [email protected] on 01/12/2005 7:54 AM

01/12/2005 7:06 PM

On 1 Dec 2005 08:44:44 -0800, "tom" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Because cherry has many different colors, ranging from light brown to
>darker shades, reds, etc.. Tom


It's also due to the fact that most woods, like cherry and mahogany,
darken with age.

Some of the darkest versions of these named finishes are meant to
simulate old woods, or woods finished with aged varnishes and/or
different kinds of old shellac, or chemically fumed.

Then again, some people just like certain looks, so stains are used to
duplicate them.

Barry

tt

"tom"

in reply to [email protected] on 01/12/2005 7:54 AM

01/12/2005 8:44 AM

Because cherry has many different colors, ranging from light brown to
darker shades, reds, etc.. Tom

r

in reply to [email protected] on 01/12/2005 7:54 AM

01/12/2005 9:27 AM

Thanks. So, if you were specing out something in cherry -- just asking
for "cherry" would be insufficient for you to know what color wood
(unstained and unfinished) you would wind up with?

tt

"tom"

in reply to [email protected] on 01/12/2005 7:54 AM

01/12/2005 9:52 AM

Yes. Select your own wood, if possible. You'll be able to more closely
match the colors. Tom

r

in reply to [email protected] on 01/12/2005 7:54 AM

01/12/2005 11:30 AM

See, that was my theory -- that somebody was trying to match the color
of a 100 or 150 year old piece of furniture that had darkened. That
would explain why the pieces of furniture that are "traditional styled"
have the dark, dark, type cherry-finish.

Mj

"MrAnderson"

in reply to [email protected] on 01/12/2005 7:54 AM

01/12/2005 11:45 AM

I love and hate cherry. If you've ever tried to put a dark stain on
cherry you know what I mean. It doesn't receive stain evenly. After
trying to get that aged dark look via lye, I gave up and went "natural"
with the kitchen cabinets. A few years later, I made a fireplace
mantel and went for that stained rich cherry finish using a gel-based
stain. I was aiming for perfection and the result was okay, but
this had to be one of the most aggravating finishing experiences I've
ever had.

DD

David

in reply to [email protected] on 01/12/2005 7:54 AM

01/12/2005 12:20 PM

MrAnderson wrote:

> I love and hate cherry. If you've ever tried to put a dark stain on
> cherry you know what I mean. It doesn't receive stain evenly. After
> trying to get that aged dark look via lye, I gave up and went "natural"
> with the kitchen cabinets. A few years later, I made a fireplace
> mantel and went for that stained rich cherry finish using a gel-based
> stain. I was aiming for perfection and the result was okay, but
> this had to be one of the most aggravating finishing experiences I've
> ever had.
>
Any blotch prone wood is amenable to spraying your dye with an HVLP. No
blotching. Any depth of color you want.

Dave

Br

Ba r r y

in reply to [email protected] on 01/12/2005 7:54 AM

01/12/2005 8:50 PM

On 1 Dec 2005 11:45:08 -0800, "MrAnderson" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I love and hate cherry. If you've ever tried to put a dark stain on
>cherry you know what I mean. It doesn't receive stain evenly.

This is easily controlled by either using a shellac or lacquer sealer
under the stain, or by tinting the clear finish.

Pigment stain over Seal Coat or lacquer sanding sealer won't work with
home center, hardware store and most paint store brands of stain.
Typical consumer products never dry when applied over a sealed
surface.

You'll need a fast evaporating "pro" stain like H. Behlen or Mohawk.
The application process is much different, as well. Instead of apply,
wait, & wipe off, you'd wipe the stain on, and then "dry brush" to
evenly distribute the pigment. These stains also spray really well,
but you'll still need the dry brush to even things out.

Tinted clear finishes are best sprayed for an even color.

Either method can provide a beautiful look with absolutely ZERO
blotches and figure obscuration when correctly applied. I took some
hands-on courses from pro finishers to learn these methods. Like most
everyone else, my previous training was applying Minwax in Industrial
Arts class. <G> When done right, it's not uncommon to spend as much
or more time finishing a piece as it did to build it.

The same stain over sealer methods work great on birch, maple, pine,
and any other blotch-prone wood.

Barry

nn

nospambob

in reply to [email protected] on 01/12/2005 7:54 AM

01/12/2005 12:09 PM

Google for discussions on cherry and how it changes color as it ages.
Wonderful wood to works with but don't expect sapwood to change like
heartwood, DAMHIKT. Cherry is NOT to be stained according to many
posters!

On 1 Dec 2005 07:54:25 -0800, [email protected] wrote:

>I'm confused as to why certain woods are stained in certain traditional
>ways. For example, I have some raw cherry that is very light. I feel
>pretty confident that if varnished or oiled it would look completely
>unlike the two "Cherry" finishes I commonly see -- a very dark brown or
>a much lighter brown with red in it. Why would these be called "cherry
>finish" when they look nothing like what cherry looks like when not
>stained and just finished.


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