Any paint guru's out there? I'm screwing up.
OK - so I spent a *lot* of time molding and fitting some house trim (base
boards, lots of window frame and trim, coving etc) in douglas fir. There
are some simple flat and fairly broad sections that I wanted to get a
decent paint job on. Can I get it right? Nope.
Problem is I can't get the paint to brush out without brushmarks and it
looks like S&^te. Using beyr expensive white enamel gloss over the
presecribed beyr enamel primer. New, decent bristle brush. Expected the
wood to soak up a bit, which it does, but it leaves brushmark whether you
put it on thin, roll and tip, lash it on or even thin it a little. Doesn't
sand well at all - Seems to have a latex content that doesn't like the heat
of sanding and rolls up or leaves an edge, it doesn't feather.
So whats the right technique to get a decent finish? local paint store guy
says it has to be sprayed!
FYI, Left it unfinished for a few weeks in the house to adjust to the
humidity. All looks good and almost no movement after install. Surface
*was* very flat, smooth - sanded to 200 grit and looked pretty good until I
painted it.. House is in FL so its still 80f and about 40% humidity.
Mike <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Any paint guru's out there? I'm screwing up.
>
> OK - so I spent a *lot* of time molding and fitting some house
> trim (base boards, lots of window frame and trim, coving etc) in
> douglas fir. There are some simple flat and fairly broad sections
> that I wanted to get a decent paint job on. Can I get it right?
> Nope.
>
> Problem is I can't get the paint to brush out without brushmarks
> and it looks like S&^te. Using beyr expensive white enamel gloss
> over the presecribed beyr enamel primer. New, decent bristle
> brush. Expected the wood to soak up a bit, which it does, but it
> leaves brushmark whether you put it on thin, roll and tip, lash it
> on or even thin it a little. Doesn't sand well at all - Seems to
> have a latex content that doesn't like the heat of sanding and
> rolls up or leaves an edge, it doesn't feather.
>
> So whats the right technique to get a decent finish? local paint
> store guy says it has to be sprayed!
<snip>
If you are willing to pay the price, high build epoxy primer used to
prepare a boat hull for two part linear polyurethane finish, will do
the job.
Apply with either spray or brush, allow to cure, then sand smooth, and
reapply as required.
Use whatever you like as a finish coat.
Lew
On Nov 18, 7:23=EF=BF=BDpm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > Like your paint, probably not good enough. =EF=BF=BDI'd wo with a Wooste=
r or
> > Pritty brush.
>
> Yeah, make Pritty, Purdy.
There's also the question of brush "technique" but I wouldn't know how
to teach it. It's something you get a feel for - or don't -
eventually. Ask your wife to show you how she does her nails and
that's a good start.
FoggyTown
On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 9:18:34 PM UTC-4, krw wrote:
> On Sat, 21 May 2016 19:11:30 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On 5/21/2016 3:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >
> >> I've used their Emerald, Duration, and
> >> SuperPaint products with good results - cannot remember which was the
> >> trim paint -Either the super-paint or Duration Semi-Gloss.
> >
> >After 9 years the OP has most likely moved on ...
>
> You're still here. ;-)
And not paying any attention to the dates, I start reading through the thread from the beginning and boggle at seeing a post from Lew Hodgett.
--
-Harold Hill
On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 22:20:29 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I very seldom sand a prepainted latex surface. I typically always wipe the
>entire surface down with Liquid Sandpaper. That cleans the surface and
>softens the surface so that it readily takes fresh paint, latex or oil with
>out having a problem with peeling.
That's not why I sand. I never had paint peel before I sanded. <G>
The sanding removes the embedded grit, old roller ropes, drips, lumps,
etc...
The sanding is so light, I can do a 14x14 room in less than 15 minutes
using two Mirka discs. I kick a milk crate along to reach the top
with 8 ft. ceilings, so I don't spend time moving a ladder. The
sander is attached to the Shop Vac the whole time.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
On Nov 18, 1:50 pm, Mike <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Problem is I can't get the paint to brush out without brushmarks and it
> looks like S&^te. Using beyr expensive white enamel gloss over the
> presecribed beyr enamel primer. New, decent bristle brush. Expected the
> wood to soak up a bit, which it does, but it leaves brushmark whether you
> put it on thin, roll and tip, lash it on or even thin it a little. Doesn't
> sand well at all - Seems to have a latex content that doesn't like the heat
> of sanding and rolls up or leaves an edge, it doesn't feather.
>
Personally, I find Beyr to be a very poor quality paint. It doesn't
take much air exposure before it starts to coagulate. To get good
results, pour small quantities at a time. A beer party plastic cup
makes a nice container. Seal the can while you paint from the cup. If
it was me, I'd toss Beyr in favor of Sherwin Williams.
Jeff
On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 18:50:47 GMT, Mike <[email protected]> wrote:
>Any paint guru's out there? I'm screwing up.
>
>OK - so I spent a *lot* of time molding and fitting some house trim (base
>boards, lots of window frame and trim, coving etc) in douglas fir. There
>are some simple flat and fairly broad sections that I wanted to get a
>decent paint job on. Can I get it right? Nope.
>
>Problem is I can't get the paint to brush out without brushmarks and it
>looks like S&^te. Using beyr expensive white enamel gloss over the
>presecribed beyr enamel primer. New, decent bristle brush. Expected the
>wood to soak up a bit, which it does, but it leaves brushmark whether you
>put it on thin, roll and tip, lash it on or even thin it a little. Doesn't
>sand well at all - Seems to have a latex content that doesn't like the heat
>of sanding and rolls up or leaves an edge, it doesn't feather.
>
>So whats the right technique to get a decent finish? local paint store guy
>says it has to be sprayed!
>
>FYI, Left it unfinished for a few weeks in the house to adjust to the
>humidity. All looks good and almost no movement after install. Surface
>*was* very flat, smooth - sanded to 200 grit and looked pretty good until I
>painted it.. House is in FL so its still 80f and about 40% humidity.
Hope you are using oil base enamel in a high gloss or semi glass. Thin
to flow from a good quality brush (not wipe on) and you will have it!
Good Luck
Kenneth
replying to Mike, KH wrote:
I wouldn't recommend spraying unless youre prepared to cover Everything in
your house you don't want painted or covered in dust. My company rarely sprays
trim except in new construction.
Foam rollers work okay but leave a stipple instead of brush strokes.
Better paint and better brush is my recommendation. Porter Permanizer dries
relatively flat(meaning the brush strokes level out as it dries) the downside
is it tends to run if applied too heavily because of the slow setup time.
SW Solo works well also.
An oil-modified latex might be your best bet. It behaves more like oil but
with water cleanup. Has a longer setup time than traditional latex so you have
more time to work it. No matter what base you use, oil or latex, keeping a wet
edge and not over brushing is critical. Thinning your paint helps also but
don't overdo it.
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/aagh-how-do-you-paint-trim-and-get-it-flat-smooth-and-sh-400534-.htm
On 5/24/2016 7:54 AM, Harold Hill wrote:
> And not paying any attention to the dates, I start reading through the thread from the beginning and boggle at seeing a post from Lew Hodgett.
And Leon ... who answered it 9 years ago. ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Like your paint, probably not good enough. I'd wo with a Wooster or
> Pritty brush.
>
Yeah, make Pritty, Purdy.
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Sanding IS tougher on latex, as you have to wait, and even then it still
> won't sand as well as oil base. A local painter taught me to always sand
> before painting, but that's usually on latex a few years old. Fresh latex
> is nearly impossible to sand. My usual surface prep (even for walls) is a
> a light zip-trip with a ROS and 150 grit, followed by a damp sponge. When
> I first heard the method, I thought it to be overkill, but I'm now
> convinced the sanding is worth it.
I very seldom sand a prepainted latex surface. I typically always wipe the
entire surface down with Liquid Sandpaper. That cleans the surface and
softens the surface so that it readily takes fresh paint, latex or oil with
out having a problem with peeling.
B A R R Y wrote:
> On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 22:08:09 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> 2. Never, ever use latex paint on anything where you want a lovely
>> paint job.
>
> Unless you know how. <G>
Aye, you're a better man than I, Gunga Din. But can you sand it? :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 5/21/2016 3:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I've used their Emerald, Duration, and
> SuperPaint products with good results - cannot remember which was the
> trim paint -Either the super-paint or Duration Semi-Gloss.
After 9 years the OP has most likely moved on ...
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Digger wrote:
> On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 18:50:47 GMT, Mike <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Any paint guru's out there? I'm screwing up.
>>
>> OK - so I spent a *lot* of time molding and fitting some house
>> trim (base boards, lots of window frame and trim, coving etc) in
>> douglas fir. There are some simple flat and fairly broad sections
>> that I wanted to get a decent paint job on. Can I get it right?
>> Nope.
>>
>> Problem is I can't get the paint to brush out without brushmarks
>> and it looks like S&^te. Using beyr expensive white enamel gloss
>> over the presecribed beyr enamel primer. New, decent bristle
>> brush. Expected the wood to soak up a bit, which it does, but it
>> leaves brushmark whether you put it on thin, roll and tip, lash it
>> on or even thin it a little. Doesn't sand well at all - Seems to
>> have a latex content that doesn't like the heat of sanding and
>> rolls up or leaves an edge, it doesn't feather.
>>
>> So whats the right technique to get a decent finish? local paint
>> store guy says it has to be sprayed!
>>
>> FYI, Left it unfinished for a few weeks in the house to adjust to
>> the humidity. All looks good and almost no movement after install.
>> Surface *was* very flat, smooth - sanded to 200 grit and looked
>> pretty good until I painted it.. House is in FL so its still 80f
>> and about 40% humidity.
>
> Hope you are using oil base enamel in a high gloss or semi glass.
> Thin to flow from a good quality brush (not wipe on) and you will
> have it! Good Luck
All true. Assuming he primed it first. *Especially* with Douglas fir
as it telegraphs grain about as bad as anything I know because of the
juxtaposition of hard/soft sections.
And sanding the wood is no cure as more soft wood then hard wood is
inevitably removed. The primer not only removes the suction by the
soft wood areas but fills the slight depressions in same created when
sanding the bare wood; sanding the primer then gives the baby butt
smooth surface necessary for the oil paint to shrink down to for a
presentable finish.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Sat, 21 May 2016 19:11:30 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 5/21/2016 3:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I've used their Emerald, Duration, and
>> SuperPaint products with good results - cannot remember which was the
>> trim paint -Either the super-paint or Duration Semi-Gloss.
>
>After 9 years the OP has most likely moved on ...
You're still here. ;-)
Mike wrote:
> Any paint guru's out there? I'm screwing up.
>
> OK - so I spent a *lot* of time molding and fitting some house trim
> (base boards, lots of window frame and trim, coving etc) in douglas
> fir. There are some simple flat and fairly broad sections that I
> wanted to get a decent paint job on. Can I get it right? Nope.
>
> Problem is I can't get the paint to brush out without brushmarks
> and it looks like S&^te. Using beyr expensive white enamel gloss
> over the presecribed beyr enamel primer. New, decent bristle brush.
> Expected the wood to soak up a bit, which it does, but it leaves
> brushmark whether you put it on thin, roll and tip, lash it on or
> even thin it a little. Doesn't sand well at all - Seems to have a
> latex content that doesn't like the heat of sanding and rolls up or
> leaves an edge, it doesn't feather.
>
> So whats the right technique to get a decent finish? local paint
> store guy says it has to be sprayed!
>
> FYI, Left it unfinished for a few weeks in the house to adjust to
> the humidity. All looks good and almost no movement after install.
> Surface *was* very flat, smooth - sanded to 200 grit and looked
> pretty good until I painted it.. House is in FL so its still 80f
> and about 40% humidity.
1. Use a primer, sand smooth after drying
2. Never, ever use latex paint on anything where you want a lovely
paint job. It shows brush marks and - as you discovered - doesn't
sand. Yes, you can get a better result spraying but you still can't
sand the stuff when it is time to redo.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Swingman" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>On 5/21/2016 3:59 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> I've used their Emerald, Duration, and
>> SuperPaint products with good results - cannot remember which was the
>> trim paint -Either the super-paint or Duration Semi-Gloss.
>After 9 years the OP has most likely moved on ...
You can never be sure... some suffer from terminal analysis paralysis. ;~)
On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 16:57:26 -0600, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I have had latex peel when sanding.
>
A-ha! Different thing.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
Mike,
I agree with the others. I have had excellent results with Sherman Williams
oil acrylic...maybe thinned a little, and using Purdy brushes (there is no
substitute for a good brush).
No problems with brush marks.
Skip
www.ShopFileR.com
"Mike" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Any paint guru's out there? I'm screwing up.
>
> OK - so I spent a *lot* of time molding and fitting some house trim (base
> boards, lots of window frame and trim, coving etc) in douglas fir. There
> are some simple flat and fairly broad sections that I wanted to get a
> decent paint job on. Can I get it right? Nope.
>
> Problem is I can't get the paint to brush out without brushmarks and it
> looks like S&^te. Using beyr expensive white enamel gloss over the
> presecribed beyr enamel primer. New, decent bristle brush. Expected the
> wood to soak up a bit, which it does, but it leaves brushmark whether you
> put it on thin, roll and tip, lash it on or even thin it a little. Doesn't
> sand well at all - Seems to have a latex content that doesn't like the
> heat
> of sanding and rolls up or leaves an edge, it doesn't feather.
>
> So whats the right technique to get a decent finish? local paint store guy
> says it has to be sprayed!
>
> FYI, Left it unfinished for a few weeks in the house to adjust to the
> humidity. All looks good and almost no movement after install. Surface
> *was* very flat, smooth - sanded to 200 grit and looked pretty good until
> I
> painted it.. House is in FL so its still 80f and about 40% humidity.
On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 22:08:09 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>2. Never, ever use latex paint on anything where you want a lovely
>paint job.
Unless you know how. <G>
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
On Sat, 21 May 2016 17:44:01 +0000, KH
<[email protected]> wrote:
>replying to Mike, KH wrote:
>I wouldn't recommend spraying unless youre prepared to cover Everything in
>your house you don't want painted or covered in dust. My company rarely sprays
>trim except in new construction.
>Foam rollers work okay but leave a stipple instead of brush strokes.
>Better paint and better brush is my recommendation. Porter Permanizer dries
>relatively flat(meaning the brush strokes level out as it dries) the downside
>is it tends to run if applied too heavily because of the slow setup time.
>SW Solo works well also.
>An oil-modified latex might be your best bet. It behaves more like oil but
>with water cleanup. Has a longer setup time than traditional latex so you have
>more time to work it. No matter what base you use, oil or latex, keeping a wet
>edge and not over brushing is critical. Thinning your paint helps also but
>don't overdo it.
Using a high quality latexpaint, a good brush, and a little bit of
Flood's "flow-trol" (or is it Floe-trol) you can make a finish that
rivals a spray job. The paintwork on our bathroom vanity and bedroom
doors is almost as good as an automotive paint spray-job.
That was Sherwin Williams. I've used their Emerald, Duration, and
SuperPaint products with good results - cannot remember which was the
trim paint -Either the super-paint or Duration Semi-Gloss.
"Mike" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Any paint guru's out there? I'm screwing up.
>
> OK - so I spent a *lot* of time molding and fitting some house trim (base
> boards, lots of window frame and trim, coving etc) in douglas fir. There
> are some simple flat and fairly broad sections that I wanted to get a
> decent paint job on. Can I get it right? Nope.
>
> Problem is I can't get the paint to brush out without brushmarks and it
> looks like S&^te. Using beyr expensive white enamel gloss over the
> presecribed beyr enamel primer.
Ok, I hate to say this, but that I have never had any luck with the Behr
stuff. Its home center hobby quality IMHO.
If you want good I recomend Sherman Williams top end Alkid oil based enamel,
or Pratt and Lambert.
New, decent bristle brush.
Like your paint, probably not good enough. I'd wo with a Wooster or Pritty
brush.
Expected the
> wood to soak up a bit, which it does, but it leaves brushmark whether you
> put it on thin, roll and tip, lash it on or even thin it a little. Doesn't
> sand well at all - Seems to have a latex content that doesn't like the
> heat
> of sanding and rolls up or leaves an edge, it doesn't feather.
You may want to add a bit of thinner to your paint if using oil based.
>
> So whats the right technique to get a decent finish? local paint store guy
> says it has to be sprayed!
WRONG! If the local paint store guy is the HomeDepot guy it says a lot
abolut the Behr paint.
>
> FYI, Left it unfinished for a few weeks in the house to adjust to the
> humidity. All looks good and almost no movement after install. Surface
> *was* very flat, smooth - sanded to 200 grit and looked pretty good until
> I
> painted it.. House is in FL so its still 80f and about 40% humidity.
Should not be a problem. Don't go cheap on the paint or the brushes. Wide
flat surfaces look good if rolled with the white closed cell foam rollers.
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 22:20:29 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I very seldom sand a prepainted latex surface. I typically always wipe
>>the
>>entire surface down with Liquid Sandpaper. That cleans the surface and
>>softens the surface so that it readily takes fresh paint, latex or oil
>>with
>>out having a problem with peeling.
>
> That's not why I sand. I never had paint peel before I sanded. <G>
I have had latex peel when sanding.
On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 19:11:18 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Ok, I hate to say this, but that I have never had any luck with the Behr
>stuff. Its home center hobby quality IMHO.
>If you want good I recomend Sherman Williams top end Alkid oil based enamel,
>or Pratt and Lambert.
I've had great results on trim with the P&L gloss and semi-gloss
latex, sometimes with a tick of Floetrol added, applied with Purdy
brushes.
I only use Floetrol in the summer, as it prevents the paint from
drying too quickly and locking in brush marks. Read the directions on
the Floetrol bottle.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
dadiOH wrote:
> B A R R Y wrote:
>> On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 22:08:09 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> 2. Never, ever use latex paint on anything where you want a lovely
>>> paint job.
>> Unless you know how. <G>
>
> Aye, you're a better man than I, Gunga Din. But can you sand it? :)
>
Sanding IS tougher on latex, as you have to wait, and even then it still
won't sand as well as oil base. A local painter taught me to always
sand before painting, but that's usually on latex a few years old.
Fresh latex is nearly impossible to sand. My usual surface prep (even
for walls) is a a light zip-trip with a ROS and 150 grit, followed by a
damp sponge. When I first heard the method, I thought it to be
overkill, but I'm now convinced the sanding is worth it.
As far as application goes, the key is a really good brush, great paint,
Floetrol, and technique. Latex dries fast, Floetrol slows it down so it
can level better. To get a super-smooth latex finish, a "wet edge"
needs to be maintained, working in small areas, brush the fresh paint
back into the last applied paint, and don't over brush. In certain
ways, latex brushes a lot like shellac or lacquer, two other fast drying
finishes.
Avoid the temptation to "tip-off" the paint once it's down. If you've
every tried to brush enamel in the sun, that's exactly what most folks
do with latex. They try to brush "draggy" paint.