I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence
that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow
before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate
a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I
just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor.
Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be
better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I
should consider?
>
>I found information about the recall, but it seemed to only relate to
>the blade guard. It doesn't say anything about the table.
>Here is a link to one of the recall notices:
>http://www.recall-warnings.com/cpsc-content-01-01031.html
Since the NEW & SAFE blade guard will lessen the cross cut capacity of
the saw by about an inch they also send you a new table...
My old Craftsman saw is too old to qualify for the recall and is still
worth more then 100 bucks to me (even though I have not moved it off a
90 degree cut in 25 years...so I did not "bite" for the recall..
Bob Griffiths
On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 12:48:58 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Since nobody seems to have mentioned it, you might want to check out
><http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/>. If yours is one for which there's a
>replacement guard available, you get a new table with the new guard, and
>it's all free.
>
Mine turns out to be a 113.23111, not eligible for the refit.
Check out Ken Vaughn's website. Here is a link. It might help with some
design aspects for your RAS.
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65k/radial.html
Regards,
Brad
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > "GreenLight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >> I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table
> >> and fence that are in very poor condition. I need to get a
> >> replacement somehow before I can use this saw. Part of the
> >> problem is that I cannot locate a model number on the saw. I
> >> have looked all over the thing, and I just don't see it.
> >> There is a model number on the motor. Would a replacement
> >> table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be better off
> >> trying to make my own table? Any other options that I should
> >> consider?
>
> The original post didn't appear on my server so I'll jump in here.
>
> Building a new table isn't difficult. I've posted a few photos of
> one that I built at <http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/RAS_Table.html>
>
> I built mine 8 inches wider than the original and like having
> that additional bit of work support.
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto, Iowa USA
>
Two suggestions for your new RAS:
Purchase a copy of "How To Master The Radial Saw" by Wally Kunkel
http://mrsawdust.com it's a complete guide to your RAS and make your new
table to the design suggested in this book. It's a steel reinforced two
layer table.
Good luck!
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"GreenLight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence
> that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow
> before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate
> a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I
> just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor.
> Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be
> better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I
> should consider?
google asks:
>I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence
>that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow
>before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate
>a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I
>just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor.
>Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be
>better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I
>should consider?
Just make one. Pick up an appropriately sized chunk of 1" MDF at your local
lumber yard, cut it into, IIRC, 4 pieces, with one about 2-1/2" tall for the
fence, a back-of-fence board about 3" wide and another about half that, and the
front table about 18" deep. Cut to table width--I'm not near one of the saws
right now, but 30-36" seems right to me. Mount on the metal table frame, with
the fence inserted 2-1/2" side vertically, in front of the two narrower boards.
Test for fit and test saw for squareness, etc.
Charlie Self
"Men stumble over the truth from time to time, but most pick themselves up and
hurry off as if nothing happened." Sir Winston Churchill
I have had a Craftsmen RAS for twenty years, It was my first
stationary tool also. I have replaced the table twice. It came new
with 1" MDF. At replacement time I ordered new from Sears because no
one carries anytime bigger then 3/4 MDF at the time. Because it was
expensive I put a piece 1/4 Luan (sp) on top. I have changed it many
time over the last 15 years but the MDF looks as good as new. For a
fence I use a 1 x 3 piece of poplar. HTH - George
On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 19:38:56 -0500, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
wrote:
>mac davis wrote:
>
>> Morris.. I like the size and look of your table...
>
>Thanks. When I replaced the table I was working in a 10-1/2 x 18'
>shop. I moved to a bigger shop and have been tempted several
>times to build an 8' table (so I can stop screwing around with
>roller stands).
>
>> WHat did you use for your fence? (type of wood, size, etc.)
>
>It began life as a pine 1 x 4 - somehow ended up on the junk pile
>and got ripped to about 2" wide when I decided that the old fence
>was past due for retirement.
>
>> I just picked up a very serviceable powercraft RAS for $50 at a garage
>> sale and everything (saw/arm/motor components, stand, wheels, etc.) is
>> in good shape after removing a few years worth of rust..
>
>Good find. I bought my old Toolkraft on sale at Montgomery wards
>back in the early 70's - it was my first stationary tool. Never
>been sorry I bought it. I hope yours brings you as much satisfaction.
>
>> My project will be a new fence and table to replace the 1/2 plywood
>> one that's badly warped, and any advice would be appreciated!
>
>My old (original) table was MDF. FWIW, I like the 3/4 plywood
>better - and hope that it'll be less inclined to warp. If you
>have space, you might consider widening the table. That does seem
>to add convenience.
>
>Someone here on the wRECk (Rumpty?) is more of a RAS affectionado
>than I - you might check with him for ideas...
>>
>> It's a different world, getting into RA after a lifetime of table
>> saws, cutoff saws, etc., that all have steel tables... I thought at
>> first that the blade was turning in the wrong direction, until I
>> realized that I was looking at an "upside down table saw"..lol
>
>(-: I avoided that by making the RAS my first tool. When I
>finally got around to getting my table saw I still wanted the
>/blade/ to move. Moving the workpiece seemed pretty risky...
>
>Enjoy the new saw - and remember that the /blade/ moves.
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
Probably making your own table is not a bad option. All you really
need are some T-nuts and the old table as a pattern. I would glue two
thicknesses together to get the thickness you want. My table is
thicker than the ones on the saws now-a-days. The table has a screw
assy in the middle to take the warp out of the table, but a mover
busted mine 6 years ago and my table is nice and flat still. When you
do put on a new table, I recommend using some 1/4" hardboard to
protect the new table. My 30 year old table is still about as good as
new on the top because I did that right away.
[email protected] (GreenLight) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence
> that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow
> before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate
> a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I
> just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor.
> Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be
> better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I
> should consider?
On 15 Sep 2004 05:25:38 -0700, [email protected] (GreenLight) wrote:
>[email protected] (David Hall) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> Do a google search for "craftsman radial arm recall". Find your saw's
>> serial number. Call or surf to the recall site and give them the
>> serial number. Get a free new table and guard system delivered to your
>> home in a couple of weeks. Install the new table. Cut a piece of
>> anything flat about 3" to 4" wide and use for a fence. Done.
>>
>> On the off chance that isn't one of the saws eligible for the recall,
>> follow all the other suggestions to make a table.
>>
>> Dave Hall
>
>I found information about the recall, but it seemed to only relate to
>the blade guard. It doesn't say anything about the table.
>Here is a link to one of the recall notices:
>http://www.recall-warnings.com/cpsc-content-01-01031.html
Oh well, my saw is not eligible (NO KIT AVAILABLE). It is a model
113.23111
[email protected] (GreenLight) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence
> that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow
> before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate
> a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I
> just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor.
> Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be
> better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I
> should consider?
Do a google search for "craftsman radial arm recall". Find your saw's
serial number. Call or surf to the recall site and give them the
serial number. Get a free new table and guard system delivered to your
home in a couple of weeks. Install the new table. Cut a piece of
anything flat about 3" to 4" wide and use for a fence. Done.
On the off chance that isn't one of the saws eligible for the recall,
follow all the other suggestions to make a table.
Dave Hall
[email protected] (GreenLight) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> [email protected] (David Hall) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > Do a google search for "craftsman radial arm recall". Find your saw's
> > serial number. Call or surf to the recall site and give them the
> > serial number. Get a free new table and guard system delivered to your
> > home in a couple of weeks. Install the new table. Cut a piece of
> > anything flat about 3" to 4" wide and use for a fence. Done.
> >
> > On the off chance that isn't one of the saws eligible for the recall,
> > follow all the other suggestions to make a table.
> >
> > Dave Hall
>
> I found information about the recall, but it seemed to only relate to
> the blade guard. It doesn't say anything about the table.
> Here is a link to one of the recall notices:
> http://www.recall-warnings.com/cpsc-content-01-01031.html
Everyone I know of who applied for the recall (including me) received
both a new guard and a new table. The reason for the new table is that
the new guard sticks out a little more than the old guard and thus
requires the fence to be pushed a little further to the front and thus
it is required to effectively install the new guard and meet the
requirements of the recall.
Dave Hall
I didn't bother with the small board stuff. Mine is 18' wide, set as far
back as possible, almost against the blade. My fence sticks up about 1/2"
above the table. My top is 1.5" particle board with 3/8 ply working
surface.
I suggest you make the table 8' long, with about 3' left of the blade and a
pair of legs under the right hand end. Then it's really easy to manage long
pieces for ripping or crosscutting. When I was cutting big framing for my
house, I had a 16' table.
You have to have the book to set the table in proper orientation to the
carriage, unless you want to do a lot of observation before starting. Once
the table is on, there are several steps to alignment.
These things have their limitations, but I wouldn't be without one! It's
safer than a TS, IMHO, but still has plenty of ways to hurt you. The neat
thing is that for most cuts you are away from the blade and for crosscuts
your extra hand is firmly planted on the table.\
Sears used to sell a little book that gave instructions for many RAS
operations. It's worth having.
Wilson
"GreenLight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence
> that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow
> before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate
> a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I
> just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor.
> Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be
> better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I
> should consider?
Rumpty wrote:
>> My old (original) table was MDF. FWIW, I like the 3/4
>> plywood better - and hope that it'll be less inclined to
>> warp. If you have space, you might consider widening the
>> table. That does seem to add convenience.
>
> Your best result for your efforts of replacing your top would
> be a two layer quality ply with steel inserts (which will keep
> the table FLAT) and a sacrificial 1/4" luan ply top.
>
> I have posted a drawing of this top construction in ABPW. The
> fence should be a piece of 3/4" clear pine and should be
> considered disposable. Don't widen the top too much, It's
> better to use extension tables that are removable when
> required say when using the RAS for shaping or moulding.
I knew it'd be a good idea to offer a referral to an expert (-:
It never crossed my mind to incorporate metal reinforcements into
my top - as a result of your suggestion I may retrofit some angle
reinforcements to the bottom of the table. If I get the design
right I may be able to use the angle to provide attachment points
for extension tables - I rather like that idea.
Shaping operations on the RAS made me sufficiently jittery that I
added a shaper to the shop early on. At this point the RAS is
used primarily to shorten long boards and (rarely) to cut
compound miters. I suspect that at least one of the table
extensions will become more or less permanent.
Thanks!
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
My Craftsman RAS is a 1970's model with a square metal table that the top
sits on. On the left side of the metal table (as I face the saw) is a metal
plate with the ser. # on it. Frankly, it seems the table that came with the
saw was particle board and 7/8 to 1" think, although I don't remember for
sure. At any rate some years ago I replaced it with some kind of 1" plus
particleboard that has a melamine layer on top. For crosscutting I glued a
maple wear strip in the top to keep ihe crosscut groove neater. If I
replaced it again I'd probaly use MDF.
Hope this helps.
Jer
"GreenLight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence
> that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow
> before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate
> a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I
> just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor.
> Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be
> better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I
> should consider?
mac davis wrote:
> Morris.. I like the size and look of your table...
Thanks. When I replaced the table I was working in a 10-1/2 x 18'
shop. I moved to a bigger shop and have been tempted several
times to build an 8' table (so I can stop screwing around with
roller stands).
> WHat did you use for your fence? (type of wood, size, etc.)
It began life as a pine 1 x 4 - somehow ended up on the junk pile
and got ripped to about 2" wide when I decided that the old fence
was past due for retirement.
> I just picked up a very serviceable powercraft RAS for $50 at a garage
> sale and everything (saw/arm/motor components, stand, wheels, etc.) is
> in good shape after removing a few years worth of rust..
Good find. I bought my old Toolkraft on sale at Montgomery wards
back in the early 70's - it was my first stationary tool. Never
been sorry I bought it. I hope yours brings you as much satisfaction.
> My project will be a new fence and table to replace the 1/2 plywood
> one that's badly warped, and any advice would be appreciated!
My old (original) table was MDF. FWIW, I like the 3/4 plywood
better - and hope that it'll be less inclined to warp. If you
have space, you might consider widening the table. That does seem
to add convenience.
Someone here on the wRECk (Rumpty?) is more of a RAS affectionado
than I - you might check with him for ideas...
>
> It's a different world, getting into RA after a lifetime of table
> saws, cutoff saws, etc., that all have steel tables... I thought at
> first that the blade was turning in the wrong direction, until I
> realized that I was looking at an "upside down table saw"..lol
(-: I avoided that by making the RAS my first tool. When I
finally got around to getting my table saw I still wanted the
/blade/ to move. Moving the workpiece seemed pretty risky...
Enjoy the new saw - and remember that the /blade/ moves.
mac davis <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>
> damn, reading this, I sound like I know what I'm talking about!!
> actually just summing up some good advice gathered here and on the
> web..
>
> thanks again!
>
The beauty of the wReck!
Rumpty wrote:
> Your best result for your efforts of replacing your top would be a two layer
> quality ply with steel inserts (which will keep the table FLAT) and a
> sacrificial 1/4" luan ply top.
I like this approach; and you've got me (re)thinking my RAS table
design. I think I'll rebuild it to incorporate the steel
stiffeners; and I think I'll reduce the table width and add
detachable extensions to both sides.
To attach the extensions, I'm planning to add 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1/8
aluminum angle to the underside of the table - full depth but
attached only to the fixed portion of the table - and a matching
angle to the end of the extension so that it'll only take two
bolts to connect the two. (Picture of angle clamped in place on
RAS table on ABPW)
I'm planning to groove the extensions so I can install mini
T-track flush to the surface of the extensions and in line with
the RAS fence. This should let me install movable T-stops (see
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/t-stop.html) which should make
repetitive cutting easier.
This is becoming too much fun (-:
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
[email protected] (GreenLight) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence
> that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow
> before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate
> a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I
> just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor.
> Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be
> better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I
> should consider?
Make your own. The table is nothing more than plywood or particle
board (usually).
Remove the old table & fence. The table is most likely in two pieces.
Measure your old table(s)& cut another or others from similar
material. A skill saw can be used to cut the tables & fence.--Mark
your new wood for the bolt holes using the old table. Drill &
countersink the bolt holes. Cut a new fence using the old one for a
guide. Install the new table & fence in the reverse order that you
took them apart. Test for fence squareness-- Usually, RAS have
adjustments on the back side of the fence to move the fence back or
forward to insure that the fence is square with the blade. The last
one I redid required a shim between the fence & the adjuster because I
had cut the small back part of the table small on one end.
It could be more difficult, but I don't see how.
Make sure you take note & make drawings of how you took this apart if
you are new to this-- taking pictures with a digital camera during the
process would be really helpful.
On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 12:48:58 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> I just picked up a very serviceable powercraft RAS for $50 at a garage
>> sale and everything (saw/arm/motor components, stand, wheels, etc.) is
>> in good shape after removing a few years worth of rust..
>>
>> My project will be a new fence and table to replace the 1/2 plywood
>> one that's badly warped, and any advice would be appreciated!
>>
>> It's a different world, getting into RA after a lifetime of table
>> saws, cutoff saws, etc., that all have steel tables... I thought at
>> first that the blade was turning in the wrong direction, until I
>> realized that I was looking at an "upside down table saw"..lol
>
>Since nobody seems to have mentioned it, you might want to check out
><http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/>. If yours is one for which there's a
>replacement guard available, you get a new table with the new guard, and
>it's all free.
>
>> Mac
Nope.. I just jumped into the craftsman thread because of morris's
link to his table.. my say is an old monkey ward power kraft..
Mac
[email protected] (David Hall) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Do a google search for "craftsman radial arm recall". Find your saw's
> serial number. Call or surf to the recall site and give them the
> serial number. Get a free new table and guard system delivered to your
> home in a couple of weeks. Install the new table. Cut a piece of
> anything flat about 3" to 4" wide and use for a fence. Done.
>
> On the off chance that isn't one of the saws eligible for the recall,
> follow all the other suggestions to make a table.
>
> Dave Hall
I found information about the recall, but it seemed to only relate to
the blade guard. It doesn't say anything about the table.
Here is a link to one of the recall notices:
http://www.recall-warnings.com/cpsc-content-01-01031.html
mac davis wrote:
> On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 01:14:29 -0500, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>Building a new table isn't difficult. I've posted a few photos of
>>one that I built at <http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/RAS_Table.html>
>>
>>I built mine 8 inches wider than the original and like having
>>that additional bit of work support.
>
> Morris.. I like the size and look of your table..
>
> WHat did you use for your fence? (type of wood, size, etc.)
>
> I just picked up a very serviceable powercraft RAS for $50 at a garage
> sale and everything (saw/arm/motor components, stand, wheels, etc.) is
> in good shape after removing a few years worth of rust..
>
> My project will be a new fence and table to replace the 1/2 plywood
> one that's badly warped, and any advice would be appreciated!
>
> It's a different world, getting into RA after a lifetime of table
> saws, cutoff saws, etc., that all have steel tables... I thought at
> first that the blade was turning in the wrong direction, until I
> realized that I was looking at an "upside down table saw"..lol
Since nobody seems to have mentioned it, you might want to check out
<http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/>. If yours is one for which there's a
replacement guard available, you get a new table with the new guard, and
it's all free.
> Mac
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
GreenLight wrote:
> [email protected] (David Hall) wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>> Do a google search for "craftsman radial arm recall". Find your saw's
>> serial number. Call or surf to the recall site and give them the
>> serial number. Get a free new table and guard system delivered to your
>> home in a couple of weeks. Install the new table. Cut a piece of
>> anything flat about 3" to 4" wide and use for a fence. Done.
>>
>> On the off chance that isn't one of the saws eligible for the recall,
>> follow all the other suggestions to make a table.
>>
>> Dave Hall
>
> I found information about the recall, but it seemed to only relate to
> the blade guard. It doesn't say anything about the table.
> Here is a link to one of the recall notices:
> http://www.recall-warnings.com/cpsc-content-01-01031.html
Regardless of what the notice says a new table comes in the box with the new
guard.
It's free regardless, so even if it doesn't come with a table you haven't
lost anything but a little time.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
The table is a piece of particle board. The fence is a piece of pine. Make
one.
"GreenLight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence
> that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow
> before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate
> a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I
> just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor.
> Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be
> better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I
> should consider?
Mac ...
<<Nope.. I just jumped into the craftsman thread because of morris's
link to his table.. my say is an old monkey ward power kraft.>>
In that case, get in touch with these guys: http://www.toolkraft.com/ and
see if you can get the specs from them. (Ask for George. He's the
PowrKraft guy.)
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 08:57:30 -0400, "Rumpty" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>My old (original) table was MDF. FWIW, I like the 3/4 plywood
>better - and hope that it'll be less inclined to warp. If you
>have space, you might consider widening the table. That does seem
>to add convenience.
>
>
>Your best result for your efforts of replacing your top would be a two layer
>quality ply with steel inserts (which will keep the table FLAT) and a
>sacrificial 1/4" luan ply top.
>
>I have posted a drawing of this top construction in ABPW. The fence should
>be a piece of 3/4" clear pine and should be considered disposable. Don't
>widen the top too much, It's better to use extension tables that are
>removable when required say when using the RAS for shaping or moulding.
thanks to Morris & Rumpty...
THe old table (actually a "new" table that was never used) was 36" x
30" and very strange... they mounted it flush to the steel table frame
with the risers all the way down, which not only warped it, but made
the height crank useless until I took the saber saw to it..lol
I'm glad that you both mentioned a "disposable" fence of pine.. i work
with a lot of pine but a few folks in the neighborhood say that it
should be hardwood... seems a waste of good hardwood!
I'm going with the overkill method for the table... using 1 1/8 floor
material that should be pretty warp free..
The table top will be 48"x24" this time with the table offset to the
left for the extra foot... it seems odd to me that most RAS table tops
are centered on the table frame, when the blade runs so far to the
left of the arm...
I was going to go with an 8' x 24" table, but decided that I wouldn't
have room for that... unless I decided to never close the garage
door..
Using the 1 1/8 material and a 1/4 plywood facing, (plus a little bit
of furring for adjustment), I should be able to have the RAS table the
exact height of my bench, giving me an extra 6' of table on the right
or "feed" side of the table..
damn, reading this, I sound like I know what I'm talking about!!
actually just summing up some good advice gathered here and on the
web..
thanks again!
Mac
On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 01:14:29 -0500, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Building a new table isn't difficult. I've posted a few photos of
>one that I built at <http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/RAS_Table.html>
>
>I built mine 8 inches wider than the original and like having
>that additional bit of work support.
Morris.. I like the size and look of your table..
WHat did you use for your fence? (type of wood, size, etc.)
I just picked up a very serviceable powercraft RAS for $50 at a garage
sale and everything (saw/arm/motor components, stand, wheels, etc.) is
in good shape after removing a few years worth of rust..
My project will be a new fence and table to replace the 1/2 plywood
one that's badly warped, and any advice would be appreciated!
It's a different world, getting into RA after a lifetime of table
saws, cutoff saws, etc., that all have steel tables... I thought at
first that the blade was turning in the wrong direction, until I
realized that I was looking at an "upside down table saw"..lol
Mac
GreenLight wrote:
> On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 12:48:58 -0400, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Since nobody seems to have mentioned it, you might want to check out
>><http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/>. If yours is one for which there's a
>>replacement guard available, you get a new table with the new guard, and
>>it's all free.
>>
>
>
> Mine turns out to be a 113.23111, not eligible for the refit.
Get ahold of a model number that is good and use that. They will send
you a blade guard and a new table. Chunk the bladeguard and use the table.
>My old (original) table was MDF. FWIW, I like the 3/4 plywood
better - and hope that it'll be less inclined to warp. If you
have space, you might consider widening the table. That does seem
to add convenience.
Your best result for your efforts of replacing your top would be a two layer
quality ply with steel inserts (which will keep the table FLAT) and a
sacrificial 1/4" luan ply top.
I have posted a drawing of this top construction in ABPW. The fence should
be a piece of 3/4" clear pine and should be considered disposable. Don't
widen the top too much, It's better to use extension tables that are
removable when required say when using the RAS for shaping or moulding.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> "GreenLight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table
>> and fence that are in very poor condition. I need to get a
>> replacement somehow before I can use this saw. Part of the
>> problem is that I cannot locate a model number on the saw. I
>> have looked all over the thing, and I just don't see it.
>> There is a model number on the motor. Would a replacement
>> table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be better off
>> trying to make my own table? Any other options that I should
>> consider?
The original post didn't appear on my server so I'll jump in here.
Building a new table isn't difficult. I've posted a few photos of
one that I built at <http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/RAS_Table.html>
I built mine 8 inches wider than the original and like having
that additional bit of work support.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA