Do I need to glue everything?

20 minute working time


8)

Yeah. We'll do a dry fit and make sure we have the glue up procedure in
place. But I think we'll need that 20 minute plus open time. The weather
here is cool--southern Vancouver Island--so the epoxy will cooperate. I
also like the epoxy idea because it's 'slippy' and will make the gluing
fit-up a little easier. I've used a lot of epoxy in the past in boat work
so I know a little more than the basics of that stuff.

We made a jig and then drilled the dowel peg holes in the back uprights.
They fit up perfectly (yeah!) with just dowel pegs. So long as we can
continue that level of precision, I think we will have an okay time of the
glue up.

Thanks all again,
David Todtman

"Ozoned" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> 20 minute working time
>
>
> 8)
>

Thank you each very much for the replies. They all get glued. I may very
well go with epoxy.

Thank,
David Todtman

David Todtman says...

> My friend and I are building two glider rockers (deck chairs). (We got an
> old broken down version from a yard sale and are using this as a model.)
> These chairs will be out in the weather for spring, summer, and fall in
> southern British Columbia and stored under cover during the winter seasons.
>
> The back and seats are of slats that are dowel pegged into side rails.
> (About 12 slats per each back and seat assembly.) I think it may be a bit
> of a scramble to glue the back and seat assembly--getting everything all
> lined up properly and clamped down before the glue begins to set. I reckon
> we can do it but the task would be less fretful if we did not use glue on
> the slats in the middle/centre of the assembly.
>
> Can we do without glue on a portion of the slats? I think the final product
> might be overall stiffer if we glued everything and that would be an
> advantage with respect to how long the chairs last.
>
> TIA,
> David Todtman

I'm trying to picture what is holding the chairs together if you don't
glue those slats. I assume there are a few other principal stringers
holding it together. I think it would be unwise to leave the seat slats
unglued, but it probably isn't as critical with the back slats. Gluing
all of them would certainly increase stiffness and durability. You will
have to use a waterproof glue whatever you do. If you can find some 24
hour epoxy, that would be waterproof and have plenty of open time.

David <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Use one of the slow setting glues, David. You don't need to use
> regular Titebond, you know!
>
> Dave
>

Titebond3 has a longer 'open time', and deals well with water resistance.
So does a polyurethane glue, like Gorrilla Glue.

Patriarch

David <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> yeah, but I think TB3 might still be too slow for a complicated
> glue-up.
> Have you used for such projects?
>

Most of my (more) complex projects haven't needed water resistance, and so
I use Titebond Extend, a slower version of Original Titebond.

I've only used TB3 on some Shaker-inspired outdoor benches, done im Western
Red Cedar, with a group of Boy Scouts. It worked well, but that's hardly a
complex glueup. (Is it fair to call it a 'screw-up', if there are
substantial numbers of McFeeley's finest included?)

My designs & projects are planned to work around my (many) limitations.
Primarily time, attention span, work space, and increasingly, physical
stamina. I cannot imagine a scenario in which a multi-spindle glueup
wouldn't turn out badly for me. I do mortise & tenon work in as many
stages as is feasible.

Blue tape is good, as is saran-type packing 'twine'.

Do what you can. Beyond that, improvise.

Patriarch

Use one of the slow setting glues, David. You don't need to use regular
Titebond, you know!

Dave

David Todtman wrote:

> My friend and I are building two glider rockers (deck chairs). (We got an
> old broken down version from a yard sale and are using this as a model.)
> These chairs will be out in the weather for spring, summer, and fall in
> southern British Columbia and stored under cover during the winter seasons.
>
> The back and seats are of slats that are dowel pegged into side rails.
> (About 12 slats per each back and seat assembly.) I think it may be a bit
> of a scramble to glue the back and seat assembly--getting everything all
> lined up properly and clamped down before the glue begins to set. I reckon
> we can do it but the task would be less fretful if we did not use glue on
> the slats in the middle/centre of the assembly.
>
> Can we do without glue on a portion of the slats? I think the final product
> might be overall stiffer if we glued everything and that would be an
> advantage with respect to how long the chairs last.
>
> TIA,
> David Todtman
>
>

"David Todtman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> The back and seats are of slats that are dowel pegged into side rails.
> (About 12 slats per each back and seat assembly.) I think it may be a
> bit of a scramble to glue the back and seat assembly--getting everything
> all lined up properly and clamped down before the glue begins to set. I
> reckon we can do it but the task would be less fretful if we did not use
> glue on the slats in the middle/centre of the assembly.

I had a bunch of slats to glue up on a bench. I used a System Three T-88
epoxy. It had a 30 minute open time, is wateproof, and strong. It is used
for aircraft and boats. www.systemthree.com I'm su re other brands will
suite your needs also.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

yeah, but I think TB3 might still be too slow for a complicated glue-up.
Have you used for such projects?

Dave

Patriarch wrote:

> David <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>Use one of the slow setting glues, David. You don't need to use
>>regular Titebond, you know!
>>
>>Dave
>>
>
>
> Titebond3 has a longer 'open time', and deals well with water resistance.
> So does a polyurethane glue, like Gorrilla Glue.
>
> Patriarch