Hey Guys:
I=92m finishing up a gift for my young niece: a (bathroom) stepstool. I
wanted to decorate it with some stenciled on images. I was wondering
if any one has any advice about materials and methods.
So far :
1. I have constructed it out of maple.
2. Dyed it with brightly colored aniline dyes (green and blue).
3. Then applied 3 thin coats of General Finishes Satin Gel Topcoat
(polyurethane).
I wanted to use stencils to paint on some starfish, seaweed and
seashells using the following:
(1. I have already designed the stencil on the computer.)
2. Print the stencil images to adhesive backed stencil material.
3. Use spray paint (not brush) to apply the images.
4. Over coat the entire stool with more poly or spraycan satin
lacquer.
Questions:
1. Source for the computer printable adhesive backed stencil material?
What about using printable transparency film and applying some of my
own spray adhesive? I'm thinking without the adhesive I'll get
bleeding, especially with spray paint?
2. Might the adhesive lift the poly that is there already or leave a
residue that will interfere with the subsequent topcoats?
3. What kind of paint? Krylon Satin? I wanted matte or satin. The
craft store has brush on acrylic. I really wanted to spray rather than
brush. Is the acrylic durable enough?
4. What about satin lacquer from a spraycan as a final topcoat vs just
more satin polyurethane? I was thinking I=92d get better coverage with
spray. Is the lacquer as scratch resistant and durable as the poly?
[email protected] wrote:
>
> 1. Source for the computer printable adhesive backed stencil material?
> What about using printable transparency film and applying some of my
> own spray adhesive? I'm thinking without the adhesive I'll get
> bleeding, especially with spray paint?
I've never heard of adhesive-backed stencil material (but don't read too
much into my ignorance of the subject) but what's wrong with masking tape?
>
> 2. Might the adhesive lift the poly that is there already or leave a
> residue that will interfere with the subsequent topcoats?
Sure, but you should be able to remove the residue with an appropriate
solvent - that won't attack the paint.
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the replies.
I do not want to do decoupage. Thanks anyway for the suggestion.
I got some frisket-film from the art supply store to make the stencil
from. It looks like it might work. It is 2-mil thick clear film with a
paper backing and a low tack adhesive. The plastic film won't hold ink
from an ink-jet printer, but the paper backing will. So I'll invert
the image and print to the paper side and cut with an x-acto knife.
I'm still not sure about what kind of spray paint to use. Am also
concerned that paint will not not stick properly to the satin-poly
undercoat. Any experience with that? What kinds or brands of paint
have you all used with success over poly?
I plan to try some test panels, But the not sticking might not be
apparent till some time later.
Anyway thanks to all who responded.
Larry
> > --
>
> > -Mike-
> > [email protected] Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> I suppose there may have been/is different types of decoupage. =A0I've
> never done decoupage, either. =A0At the time of the posting I mentioned,
> it was of interest to me. =A0I, now, recall the name I had forgotten,
> Jim Finn. =A0I googled him and found this:http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/=
members/jim-finn-4413/albums/jim-s-album/
>
> Sonny
Sonny wrote:
> What you seem to want to do is apply a decoupage to the stool. If I'm
> not mistaken, decoupage applications are very thin paper, almost like
> the thin paper wrapping inside a Christmas/holiday gift box.... I
> forget what it's called, exactly.... tissue type paper, but not toilet
> tissue-like or paper towel-like. An image is transferred to this
> paper, before applying onto the piece to be decoupaged.
>
> There are a few reasons for using this kind of thin paper, for
> decoupage type applications: 1) The paper will not turn a different
> color or darken, unsightly, when the clear coat is applied, i.e., the
> wet look, but a differnet wet look, than when testing for the wet look
> on raw wood. 2) it is supposed to be easy to transfer an image to this
> type of paper, specifically for decoupage applications. 3) The image
> will not be altered (darken, color run, etc), when a finish is
> applied, as it will when using another kind of paper. 4) the paper is
> thin enough, that no bulk result will appear on a surface. And I
> think there are a few other reasons for using this thin paper.. I
> can't recall.
>
All of this may be true - I have never done decoupage myself. However, I
knew a fellow that did a lot of it back when that was sort of a fad. He
would just cut pages out of Life magazine, or other publications, and
varnish them into the surface. It's been so long since then, that I don't
really recall if there were any color shifts, or other characteristics of
doing it this way, but I do recall that he just used any picture that he
wanted.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Aug 16, 9:30=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> Hey Guys:
>
> I=92m finishing up a gift for my young niece: a (bathroom) stepstool. I
> wanted to decorate it with some stenciled on images. I was wondering
> if any one has any advice about materials and methods.
>
> So far :
> 1. I have constructed it out of maple.
> 2. Dyed it with brightly colored aniline dyes (green and blue).
> 3. Then applied 3 thin coats of General Finishes Satin Gel Topcoat
> (polyurethane).
>
> I wanted to use stencils to paint on some starfish, seaweed and
> seashells using the following:
>
> (1. I have already designed the stencil on the computer.)
> 2. Print the stencil images to adhesive backed stencil material.
> 3. Use spray paint (not brush) to apply the images.
> 4. Over coat the entire stool with more poly or spraycan satin
> lacquer.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Source for the computer printable adhesive backed stencil material?
> What about using printable transparency film and applying some of my
> own spray adhesive? I'm thinking without the adhesive I'll get
> bleeding, especially with spray paint?
>
> 2. Might the adhesive lift the poly that is there already or leave a
> residue that will interfere with the subsequent topcoats?
>
> 3. What kind of paint? Krylon Satin? I wanted matte or satin. The
> craft store has brush on acrylic. I really wanted to spray rather than
> brush. Is the acrylic durable enough?
>
> 4. What about satin lacquer from a spraycan as a final topcoat vs just
> more satin polyurethane? I was thinking I=92d get better coverage with
> spray. Is the lacquer as scratch resistant and durable as the poly?
After applying an adhesive stencil, spray a coat of clear on first.
That way the bleed that will go under the stencil will be clear and
you won't see it. That clear spray also seals the edge of the stencil.
Then apply colour, peel and apply clear over the whole thing.
Old sign painters trick.....actually, young ones use that trick too.
On Aug 16, 8:30=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> Hey Guys:
>
> I=92m finishing up a gift for my young niece: a (bathroom) stepstool. I
> wanted to decorate it with some stenciled on images. I was wondering
> if any one has any advice about materials and methods.
>
Go to the hobby or art supply store and ask for frisket. You should
be able to get adhesive-backed frisket. Personally, I would print the
paterns out on heavy paper (heavier than 20# if you can find it), and
stick it down with rubber cement. Even when dry, the rubber cement
will peel right off. The frisket is a thin plastic film. You can
glue it down with rubber cement too. The frisket is "tougher" and can
be peeled up and used repeatedly in different locations. If you're
lucky, you can reposition the paper too. Be sure to get the cement to
the edge of the stencil cut-out. This will prevent bleed-under.
These are all tips I learned while doing art work with an air brush.
On Aug 16, 2:24=A0pm, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Sonny wrote:
> > What you seem ...
> All of this may be true - I have never done decoupage myself. =A0However,=
I
> knew a fellow that did a lot of it back when that was sort of a fad. =A0H=
e
> would just cut pages out of Life magazine, or other publications, and
> varnish them into the surface. =A0It's been so long since then, that I do=
n't
> really recall if there were any color shifts, or other characteristics of
> doing it this way, but I do recall that he just used any picture that he
> wanted.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected] Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I suppose there may have been/is different types of decoupage. I've
never done decoupage, either. At the time of the posting I mentioned,
it was of interest to me. I, now, recall the name I had forgotten,
Jim Finn. I googled him and found this:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/jim-finn-4413/albums/jim-s-album/
Sonny
On Aug 16, 9:30=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> Hey Guys:
>
> I=92m finishing up a gift for my young niece: a (bathroom) stepstool. I
> wanted to decorate it with some stenciled on images. I was wondering
> if any one has any advice about materials and methods.
>
> So far :
> 1. I have constructed it out of maple.
> 2. Dyed it with brightly colored aniline dyes (green and blue).
> 3. Then applied 3 thin coats of General Finishes Satin Gel Topcoat
> (polyurethane).
>
> I wanted to use stencils to paint on some starfish, seaweed and
> seashells using the following:
>
> (1. I have already designed the stencil on the computer.)
> 2. Print the stencil images to adhesive backed stencil material.
> 3. Use spray paint (not brush) to apply the images.
> 4. Over coat the entire stool with more poly or spraycan satin
> lacquer.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Source for the computer printable adhesive backed stencil material?
> What about using printable transparency film and applying some of my
> own spray adhesive? I'm thinking without the adhesive I'll get
> bleeding, especially with spray paint?
>
> 2. Might the adhesive lift the poly that is there already or leave a
> residue that will interfere with the subsequent topcoats?
>
> 3. What kind of paint? Krylon Satin? I wanted matte or satin. The
> craft store has brush on acrylic. I really wanted to spray rather than
> brush. Is the acrylic durable enough?
>
> 4. What about satin lacquer from a spraycan as a final topcoat vs just
> more satin polyurethane? I was thinking I=92d get better coverage with
> spray. Is the lacquer as scratch resistant and durable as the poly?
Photosilkscreen is the ultimate method, transfers fine detail well.
Most art stores carry prefab screens and Speedball diazo emulsion.
Develop with a cheap 500 watt halogen work light. Apply
the ink any way you like. You can use a stencil brush
as well as a squeegee.
What you seem to want to do is apply a decoupage to the stool. If I'm
not mistaken, decoupage applications are very thin paper, almost like
the thin paper wrapping inside a Christmas/holiday gift box.... I
forget what it's called, exactly.... tissue type paper, but not toilet
tissue-like or paper towel-like. An image is transferred to this
paper, before applying onto the piece to be decoupaged.
There are a few reasons for using this kind of thin paper, for
decoupage type applications: 1) The paper will not turn a different
color or darken, unsightly, when the clear coat is applied, i.e., the
wet look, but a differnet wet look, than when testing for the wet look
on raw wood. 2) it is supposed to be easy to transfer an image to this
type of paper, specifically for decoupage applications. 3) The image
will not be altered (darken, color run, etc), when a finish is
applied, as it will when using another kind of paper. 4) the paper is
thin enough, that no bulk result will appear on a surface. And I
think there are a few other reasons for using this thin paper.. I
can't recall.
There was someone named Jim, in this rec group, I think, who did
decoupage on his handcrafted bellows and other projects. I'll try to
find him and follow up on these details. The above paper info came
from Jim, when he posted long ago. He also gave info regarding what
finish he used and how to apply it. I saved some pics of his work, I
think. I'll look for those pics, also.
Sonny
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f4682212-51b1-4bbd-b5e7-48c544c7b6cc@q22g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
Hey Guys:
Im finishing up a gift for my young niece: a (bathroom) stepstool. I
wanted to decorate it with some stenciled on images. I was wondering
if any one has any advice about materials and methods.
[snipped]
You might want to find someone who has a vinyl cutting machine, the sort of
thing which will make stick on graphics for a car. The vinyl can be cut as a
stencil or as a sticker any size from your computer file and shouldn't be
expensive. Careful of the residue left by the vinyl adhesive if you are
finishing over the top.
Tim W
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> It won't stick well at all unless you first sand the poly to provide a
> mechanical bond.
I wonder if it was still quite greem, if the two would mingle together to
grab the paint. I have never tried it, but I would think it would.
Come to think of it, I have tried it.
I sprayed finish on a wood exterior door that was to be black on the
outside, and stain with poly clearcoat on the inside. I sprayed the stain
and clearcoat first, not masking off where the poly stopped and black
started. I then put masking on where the black was to start, and sprayed
the black over the somewhat heavy poly overspray.
I used oil based poly satin, and oil based gloss black paint, both sprayed
from a HPLV conversion gun. Not even a hint of a problem with sticking
well.
--
Jim in NC
[email protected] wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> Thanks for the replies.
>
> I do not want to do decoupage. Thanks anyway for the suggestion.
>
> I got some frisket-film from the art supply store to make the stencil
> from. It looks like it might work. It is 2-mil thick clear film with a
> paper backing and a low tack adhesive. The plastic film won't hold ink
> from an ink-jet printer, but the paper backing will. So I'll invert
> the image and print to the paper side and cut with an x-acto knife.
>
> I'm still not sure about what kind of spray paint to use. Am also
> concerned that paint will not not stick properly to the satin-poly
> undercoat. Any experience with that?
It won't stick well at all unless you first sand the poly to provide a
mechanical bond.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 08/16/2010 08:30 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> 4. What about satin lacquer from a spraycan as a final topcoat vs just
> more satin polyurethane? I was thinking Id get better coverage with
> spray. Is the lacquer as scratch resistant and durable as the poly?
No, it's neither, and poly would be a far better choice for a wet humid environment like a
bathroom. Lacquer (the regular nitro-cellulose variety) is also not a good choice for
contact with skin; it will turn gummy over time. I also have my doubts about how well it
would fare with poly as an undercoat...
If you want a spray-on finish you should be able to find satin poly in a spray can; it's not
very common, but I presume it's still be available. I have a can of it around here
somewhere; Deft brand I think...
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 08/16/2010 08:53 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> 4. What about satin lacquer from a spraycan as a final topcoat vs just
>> more satin polyurethane? I was thinking Id get better coverage with
>> spray. Is the lacquer as scratch resistant and durable as the poly?
>
> NO!! The lacquer will most likely eat both the poly and the stencil paint.
Most cured polys are resistant to lacquer thinner so the poly probably wouldn't be harmed,
but lacquer would almost certainly destroy most of the aforementioned "stencil" paints.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
I have used shelving liner material for stencils.
the vinyl adhesive backed type.
It works well and leaves clean lines. Before starting you can put a
light coat of clear on first to seal the edges.
Lightly spray on the first colored coat.
The go heavier.
On 8/16/2010 9:30 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Hey Guys:
>
> Im finishing up a gift for my young niece: a (bathroom) stepstool. I
> wanted to decorate it with some stenciled on images. I was wondering
> if any one has any advice about materials and methods.
>
> So far :
> 1. I have constructed it out of maple.
> 2. Dyed it with brightly colored aniline dyes (green and blue).
> 3. Then applied 3 thin coats of General Finishes Satin Gel Topcoat
> (polyurethane).
>
> I wanted to use stencils to paint on some starfish, seaweed and
> seashells using the following:
>
> (1. I have already designed the stencil on the computer.)
> 2. Print the stencil images to adhesive backed stencil material.
> 3. Use spray paint (not brush) to apply the images.
> 4. Over coat the entire stool with more poly or spraycan satin
> lacquer.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Source for the computer printable adhesive backed stencil material?
> What about using printable transparency film and applying some of my
> own spray adhesive? I'm thinking without the adhesive I'll get
> bleeding, especially with spray paint?
>
> 2. Might the adhesive lift the poly that is there already or leave a
> residue that will interfere with the subsequent topcoats?
>
> 3. What kind of paint? Krylon Satin? I wanted matte or satin. The
> craft store has brush on acrylic. I really wanted to spray rather than
> brush. Is the acrylic durable enough?
>
> 4. What about satin lacquer from a spraycan as a final topcoat vs just
> more satin polyurethane? I was thinking Id get better coverage with
> spray. Is the lacquer as scratch resistant and durable as the poly?
[email protected] wrote:
> Hey Guys:
>
> Im finishing up a gift for my young niece: a (bathroom) stepstool. I
> wanted to decorate it with some stenciled on images. I was wondering
> if any one has any advice about materials and methods.
>
> So far :
> 1. I have constructed it out of maple.
> 2. Dyed it with brightly colored aniline dyes (green and blue).
> 3. Then applied 3 thin coats of General Finishes Satin Gel Topcoat
> (polyurethane).
>
> I wanted to use stencils to paint on some starfish, seaweed and
> seashells using the following:
>
> (1. I have already designed the stencil on the computer.)
> 2. Print the stencil images to adhesive backed stencil material.
> 3. Use spray paint (not brush) to apply the images.
> 4. Over coat the entire stool with more poly or spraycan satin
> lacquer.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Source for the computer printable adhesive backed stencil material?
> What about using printable transparency film and applying some of my
> own spray adhesive?
What about usiny any paper then spraying the back with spray adhesive. It
can be applied so the paper will stick adequately but is still easy to
remove.
> I'm thinking without the adhesive I'll get
> bleeding, especially with spray paint?
I think you'll probably get bleeding in any case. People often spray
stencils by holding them a bit above the surface so that you get overspray
that gives an edge that gradually fades into the background.
_________
> 2. Might the adhesive lift the poly that is there already or leave a
> residue that will interfere with the subsequent topcoats?
I suppose it depends on the adhesive.
______________
> 3. What kind of paint? Krylon Satin? I wanted matte or satin. The
> craft store has brush on acrylic. I really wanted to spray rather than
> brush. Is the acrylic durable enough?
Yes but what's wrong with Krylon? Widely available at most any hardware or
home improvement store.
______________
> 4. What about satin lacquer from a spraycan as a final topcoat vs just
> more satin polyurethane? I was thinking Id get better coverage with
> spray. Is the lacquer as scratch resistant and durable as the poly?
NO!! The lacquer will most likely eat both the poly and the stencil paint.
It is also not as scratch resistant.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico