I have inherited (literally) some tools after a friend. Included is a
stackable dado (Craftsman) and a wobble dial-a-dado (Rockwell). However, I
have no instructions for their use, and therefore could someone help me with
them. The wobble dado seems rather simple to use: I dial the width, and this
is it. Is this as simple as that? The stackable is a bit of a problem. There
are two side blades, and a set of chippers, one of which is half the width.
I understand, that I need to stack the required width. This allows widths
with a step size of the narrow chipper. However, the blades and the chippers
are thinner around the arbor hole than on the perimeter. Between the
chippers there is no problem, I can alternate their mounting position so
that the edges do not contact. What about the outer blades? Indeed, they do
have openings on their perimeter where I can fit the adjacent chipper edges.
Is this the proper way to stack and use them? Or do I always need spacers.
Could someone with above-the-average patience explain to me the use of my
dados :-)
Thanks,
Maciej
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 13:18:59 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> I'd love to find a used one now, with a good assortment of cutters...
>> I'd throw away the head and use the cutters on the lathe...
>> http://home.comcast.net/~kvaughn65/bead_scraper.jpg
>
>I have an unused head with cutters somewhere around here that you can have
>Mac and I can mail it to you. I bought it new some twenty years ago and
>never used it. If I remember correctly, I only bought two or three sets of
>cutters, but the sets and the head are yours if you want them.
>
Cool.. that would be great...
email me and I'll give ya my mailing address and arrange to pay postage..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"Maciej" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have inherited (literally) some tools after a friend. Included is a
>stackable dado (Craftsman) and a wobble dial-a-dado (Rockwell). However, I
>have no instructions for their use, and therefore could someone help me
>with them. The wobble dado seems rather simple to use: I dial the width,
>and this is it. Is this as simple as that? The stackable is a bit of a
>problem. There are two side blades, and a set of chippers, one of which is
>half the width. I understand, that I need to stack the required width. This
>allows widths with a step size of the narrow chipper. However, the blades
>and the chippers are thinner around the arbor hole than on the perimeter.
>Between the chippers there is no problem, I can alternate their mounting
>position so that the edges do not contact. What about the outer blades?
>Indeed, they do have openings on their perimeter where I can fit the
>adjacent chipper edges. Is this the proper way to stack and use them? Or do
>I always need spacers. Could someone with above-the-average patience
>explain to me the use of my dados :-)
> Thanks,
> Maciej
>
>
On stacked dado sets, almost always there is an left and right outer side
set of blades. Basically only 1 side of each of the outer blades is
designed to be on the chipper side of the stack.
Wobble dado blades require you to dial in the basic setting as you have
observed however you will have to tweak that setting to your actual board
thickness. Make test cuts and trial fits with actual material being used!
Loosening the arbor nut and making that fine tune adjustment can be
troublesome. Wobble dado sets will also leave the bottom of the dado with a
curved/nonflat bottom.
"Lee Michaels" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Richard Evans" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> Molding head, now there's a scary attachment.
>
>Now that brings back memories.
>
>I picked up some blades and saw acessories at a garage sale for cheap. It
>was a box of stuff for a good price. I figured I would pick thorough it and
>throw out what I did not want.
>
>I pulled out this molding head with some kinda big cutter in it. A friend
>was looking over my shoulder and made the remark that it looked like big
>teeth that could eat me up. I felt a chill go up my spine. I put it on the
>shelf and never used it for over 20 years. Then I threw it away.
>
>I guess that image of it eating me never went away.
I used mine quite a bit back in the 70s, though I always had a mental
image of one of the blades coming loose and giving me a sucking chest
wound.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Maciej" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have inherited (literally) some tools after a friend. Included is a
>>stackable dado (Craftsman) and a wobble dial-a-dado (Rockwell). However, I
>>have no instructions for their use, and therefore could someone help me
>>with them. The wobble dado seems rather simple to use: I dial the width,
>>and this is it. Is this as simple as that? The stackable is a bit of a
>>problem.
snip
I find the wobble dado blades to be terrifying to use at the wider widths,
especially on a radial arm saw. :-)
[email protected] wrote:
> On Aug 26, 1:52 pm, "JOE MOHNIKE" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have 2 very good friends, both woodworkers, both with fingers, or parts
>> of, missing thanks to the wobble dado, I would make a clock out of it and
>> hang it on the wall, and stick with the stack dado.
>>
>> Just my opinion.
>
> I believe it. I got a chuckle out of reading this thread when it
> started.
>
> I got a wobbler in the late 70s, put it on my radial saw and promptly
> crapped in my pants when I turned it on.
>
> Old wobbly was too big for the guard, so Sears advised the way to use
> their wobbler on their radial saw was to remove the guard.
>
> I remember thinking.... "you have got to be f'ing kidding me..."
>
> I was scared to death of that thing.
I got mine in the mid-70's to use on my ToolKraft RAS and had much the
same feeling. I recall that my first project with it was a trivet with
NS dados on one side and EW dados on the other.
Had it out recently to pare down the ends of some 2x4 trailer stakes for
a friend (on the table saw, sans insert) and was still inclined to be
mucho careful...
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On Aug 26, 1:52 pm, "JOE MOHNIKE" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have 2 very good friends, both woodworkers, both with fingers, or parts
> of, missing thanks to the wobble dado, I would make a clock out of it and
> hang it on the wall, and stick with the stack dado.
>
> Just my opinion.
I believe it. I got a chuckle out of reading this thread when it
started.
I got a wobbler in the late 70s, put it on my radial saw and promptly
crapped in my pants when I turned it on.
Old wobbly was too big for the guard, so Sears advised the way to use
their wobbler on their radial saw was to remove the guard.
I remember thinking.... "you have got to be f'ing kidding me..."
I was scared to death of that thing.
Robert
I only have the wobble blade, had it since the 80's and it doesn't have a lot of
hours on it.. :-[
I find that it's good enough for my type of projects, especially at narrower
settings..
As others have pointed out, wider dados tend to have a cupped bottom, but I
seldom have a problem with it.. The few times when the bottom of a dado was
going to show anywhere, I was doing a 3/4" dado and just did two 3/8 cuts.. YMWV
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"Maciej" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have inherited (literally) some tools after a friend. Included is a
> stackable dado (Craftsman) and a wobble dial-a-dado (Rockwell). However, I
> have no instructions for their use, and therefore could someone help me
with
> them. The wobble dado seems rather simple to use: I dial the width, and
this
> is it. Is this as simple as that?
Yup, stackables are generally considered to be the better quality blade.
Wobbles dont cut the sides of the dado exactly square to the bottom and the
bottom will have a very subtle arc.
>The stackable is a bit of a problem. There
> are two side blades, and a set of chippers, one of which is half the
width.
> I understand, that I need to stack the required width. This allows widths
> with a step size of the narrow chipper. However, the blades and the
chippers
> are thinner around the arbor hole than on the perimeter. Between the
> chippers there is no problem, I can alternate their mounting position so
> that the edges do not contact.
Yup, that's how they go together.
What about the outer blades? Indeed, they do
> have openings on their perimeter where I can fit the adjacent chipper
edges.
> Is this the proper way to stack and use them?
Always use the outer blades; chippers are optional. The outer blades also
have an inside and an outside. On my freud set the writing on the blade goes
on the outside; YMMV. The outer blades will have scew-ground teeth; the
accute edge goes on the outside.
Or do I always need spacers.
> Could someone with above-the-average patience explain to me the use of my
> dados :-)
> Thanks,
> Maciej
You are on the right track and asking in the correct place.
Good luck,
Steve
>
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
I have 2 very good friends, both woodworkers, both with fingers, or parts
of, missing thanks to the wobble dado, I would make a clock out of it and
hang it on the wall, and stick with the stack dado.
Just my opinion.
Joe
"Maciej" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have inherited (literally) some tools after a friend. Included is a
>stackable dado (Craftsman) and a wobble dial-a-dado (Rockwell). However, I
>have no instructions for their use, and therefore could someone help me
>with them. The wobble dado seems rather simple to use: I dial the width,
>and this is it. Is this as simple as that? The stackable is a bit of a
>problem. There are two side blades, and a set of chippers, one of which is
>half the width. I understand, that I need to stack the required width. This
>allows widths with a step size of the narrow chipper. However, the blades
>and the chippers are thinner around the arbor hole than on the perimeter.
>Between the chippers there is no problem, I can alternate their mounting
>position so that the edges do not contact. What about the outer blades?
>Indeed, they do have openings on their perimeter where I can fit the
>adjacent chipper edges. Is this the proper way to stack and use them? Or do
>I always need spacers. Could someone with above-the-average patience
>explain to me the use of my dados :-)
> Thanks,
> Maciej
>
>
"Richard Evans" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Molding head, now there's a scary attachment.
Now that brings back memories.
I picked up some blades and saw acessories at a garage sale for cheap. It
was a box of stuff for a good price. I figured I would pick thorough it and
throw out what I did not want.
I pulled out this molding head with some kinda big cutter in it. A friend
was looking over my shoulder and made the remark that it looked like big
teeth that could eat me up. I felt a chill go up my spine. I put it on the
shelf and never used it for over 20 years. Then I threw it away.
I guess that image of it eating me never went away.
On Aug 24, 1:50=A0pm, "C & S" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Maciej" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Yup, stackables are generally considered to be the better quality blade.
> Wobbles dont cut the sides of the dado exactly square to the bottom and t=
he
> bottom will have a very subtle arc.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Steve
You're right about the stacked dado blades being the better quality,
and the wobble cutters producing a concave bottom. Wrong about the
sides of the cut, though - even the wobble blades give cuts with
parallel sides that are square to the bottom.
John Martin
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Aug 26, 1:52 pm, "JOE MOHNIKE" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have 2 very good friends, both woodworkers, both with fingers, or parts
>> of, missing thanks to the wobble dado, I would make a clock out of it and
>> hang it on the wall, and stick with the stack dado.
>>
>> Just my opinion.
>
>I believe it. I got a chuckle out of reading this thread when it
>started.
>
>I got a wobbler in the late 70s, put it on my radial saw and promptly
>crapped in my pants when I turned it on.
>
>Old wobbly was too big for the guard, so Sears advised the way to use
>their wobbler on their radial saw was to remove the guard.
My vintage '69 RAS has an extra-wide dado guard accessory. It
accomodates wobble blades, stacked blades, and a molding head.
Molding head, now there's a scary attachment.
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 11:08:04 -0400, "Lee Michaels" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"mac davis" wrote
>>
>> I'd love to find a used one now, with a good assortment of cutters...
>> I'd throw away the head and use the cutters on the lathe...
>> http://home.comcast.net/~kvaughn65/bead_scraper.jpg
>>
>>
>Maybe you could visit your homeland occasionally and go to some garage
>sales...
>
>
What's a garage, Lee? ;-]
I actually went to Yuma today...
I applied for OFM (Ol' Farts Money) today!!!
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I'd love to find a used one now, with a good assortment of cutters...
> I'd throw away the head and use the cutters on the lathe...
> http://home.comcast.net/~kvaughn65/bead_scraper.jpg
I have an unused head with cutters somewhere around here that you can have
Mac and I can mail it to you. I bought it new some twenty years ago and
never used it. If I remember correctly, I only bought two or three sets of
cutters, but the sets and the head are yours if you want them.
On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 14:50:50 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I got a wobbler in the late 70s, put it on my radial saw and promptly
>crapped in my pants when I turned it on.
>
>Old wobbly was too big for the guard, so Sears advised the way to use
>their wobbler on their radial saw was to remove the guard.
>
>I remember thinking.... "you have got to be f'ing kidding me..."
>
>I was scared to death of that thing.
>
>Robert
I've been using one for years, first on the Shopsmith and now on a "real" TS,
but never even considered putting it on the RAS.. [ shudder ]
I'm comfortable with it on the TS, but I use a "close to zero" insert and
hold-downs, and keep my hands WAY out of the blade/kickback area..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:54:34 -0700, "Matt Furze" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I applied for OFM (Ol' Farts Money) today!!!
>>
>>
>> mac
>>
>Enjoy!
>
>Got my first helping of OFM yesterday... :-)
>
>Matt in Phoenix...
Cool.. My first check is supposed to be deposited in December...
When we applied, I told the lady that I never expected to live long enough to
collect it..
She said that most of the males of the baby boomer/Vietnam era say that..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Maciej wrote:
...
> are thinner around the arbor hole than on the perimeter. Between the
> chippers there is no problem, I can alternate their mounting position so
> that the edges do not contact. What about the outer blades? Indeed, they do
> have openings on their perimeter where I can fit the adjacent chipper edges.
> Is this the proper way to stack and use them? ...
Nothing else to explain except position the chippers around as evenly as
possible.
There should be a set of cardboard shims w/ the stacking set as well to
make up/adjust precise width. If they're not w/ the set, you can easily
make anything required for a particular application.
--
U¿ytkownik "Leon" <[email protected]> napisa³ w wiadomo¶ci
news:[email protected]...
>
> You're right about the stacked dado blades being the better quality,
> and the wobble cutters producing a concave bottom. Wrong about the
> sides of the cut, though - even the wobble blades give cuts with
> parallel sides that are square to the bottom.
>
> John Martin
>
> You're right about wobble dado's making cuts with parallel sides but the
> sides are NOT square to the bottoms. Because the bottoms are not flat the
> angle at which the bottoms intersect the sides is not 90 degrees.
>
Thanks everyone for the input. I guess now it's time for some test cuts.
Maciej
"John Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Aug 24, 1:50 pm, "C & S" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Maciej" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Yup, stackables are generally considered to be the better quality blade.
> Wobbles dont cut the sides of the dado exactly square to the bottom and
> the
> bottom will have a very subtle arc.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Steve
You're right about the stacked dado blades being the better quality,
and the wobble cutters producing a concave bottom. Wrong about the
sides of the cut, though - even the wobble blades give cuts with
parallel sides that are square to the bottom.
John Martin
You're right about wobble dado's making cuts with parallel sides but the
sides are NOT square to the bottoms. Because the bottoms are not flat the
angle at which the bottoms intersect the sides is not 90 degrees.
"C & S" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Maciej" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I have inherited (literally) some tools after a friend. Included is a
>> stackable dado (Craftsman) and a wobble dial-a-dado (Rockwell). However, I
>> have no instructions for their use, and therefore could someone help me
>with
>> them. The wobble dado seems rather simple to use: I dial the width, and
>this
>> is it. Is this as simple as that?
>
>Yup, stackables are generally considered to be the better quality blade.
>Wobbles dont cut the sides of the dado exactly square to the bottom and the
>bottom will have a very subtle arc.
I also find wobblers harder to align with the intended cut. I have to
match the widest part of the blade to the cut marks, which is not
always accurate, so I resort to turning the saw on and making
ever-so-slight tentative cuts until I'm on the mark.
Stackables are the same width around the circumference, I just need
align the blade to the cut marks.
On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:36:21 -0400, "Lee Michaels" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"Richard Evans" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> Molding head, now there's a scary attachment.
>
>Now that brings back memories.
>
>I picked up some blades and saw acessories at a garage sale for cheap. It
>was a box of stuff for a good price. I figured I would pick thorough it and
>throw out what I did not want.
>
>I pulled out this molding head with some kinda big cutter in it. A friend
>was looking over my shoulder and made the remark that it looked like big
>teeth that could eat me up. I felt a chill go up my spine. I put it on the
>shelf and never used it for over 20 years. Then I threw it away.
>
>I guess that image of it eating me never went away.
>
I'd love to find a used one now, with a good assortment of cutters...
I'd throw away the head and use the cutters on the lathe...
http://home.comcast.net/~kvaughn65/bead_scraper.jpg
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing