Hi, this will seem like sacrilege to some, but I have too many trees in
my yard, an unusual number that is - 20+ full size trees in a 0.4 acre
backyard. One is a big oak tree (3 foot trunk) but the arborist says
the base of the trunk is partly eaten away. Another medium sized oak
in back is stronger but half of it extends over my house. Got some
others, a pin oak, maple, a beech.
Am I delusional or would someone offer me money for these, either for
veneer or lumber or firewood ? I'm in the midwest US.
Thge other thought is to put a wood stove into the fireplace and offset
the natural gas bills next year after the wood dries.
Thank you.
[email protected] wrote:
> Hi, this will seem like sacrilege to some, but I have too many trees in
> my yard, an unusual number that is - 20+ full size trees in a 0.4 acre
> backyard. One is a big oak tree (3 foot trunk) but the arborist says
> the base of the trunk is partly eaten away. Another medium sized oak
> in back is stronger but half of it extends over my house. Got some
> others, a pin oak, maple, a beech.
>
> Am I delusional or would someone offer me money for these, either for
> veneer or lumber or firewood ? I'm in the midwest US.
>
> Thge other thought is to put a wood stove into the fireplace and offset
> the natural gas bills next year after the wood dries.
>
> Thank you.
I get this question about 3 times a week. They aren't worth much of
anything to a tree buyer. Metal is the obvious but it's also not worth
a loggers' time to leave a job he's cutting to come for a morning and
cut 20 trees he has to work for (ie..the hanger over the house). Your
best bet is to go onto woodmizer.com. You should be able to find
someone who can take them down and saw them up for you. Then you have
the lumber to do whatever you like with. jana
[email protected] wrote:
> Hi, this will seem like sacrilege to some, but I have too many trees in
> my yard, an unusual number that is - 20+ full size trees in a 0.4 acre
> backyard. One is a big oak tree (3 foot trunk) but the arborist says
> the base of the trunk is partly eaten away. Another medium sized oak
> in back is stronger but half of it extends over my house. Got some
> others, a pin oak, maple, a beech.
>
> Am I delusional or would someone offer me money for these, either for
> veneer or lumber or firewood ? I'm in the midwest US.
>
> Thge other thought is to put a wood stove into the fireplace and offset
> the natural gas bills next year after the wood dries.
>
> Thank you.
I get this question about 3 times a week. They aren't worth much of
anything to a tree buyer. Metal is the obvious but it's also not worth
a loggers' time to leave a job he's cutting to come for a morning and
cut 20 trees he has to work for (ie..the hanger over the house). Your
best bet is to go onto woodmizer.com. You should be able to find
someone who can take them down and saw them up for you. Then you have
the lumber to do whatever you like with. jana
[email protected] wrote:
> Hi, this will seem like sacrilege to some, but I have too many trees in
> my yard, an unusual number that is - 20+ full size trees in a 0.4 acre
> backyard. One is a big oak tree (3 foot trunk) but the arborist says
> the base of the trunk is partly eaten away. Another medium sized oak
> in back is stronger but half of it extends over my house. Got some
> others, a pin oak, maple, a beech.
>
> Am I delusional or would someone offer me money for these, either for
> veneer or lumber or firewood ? I'm in the midwest US.
>
> Thge other thought is to put a wood stove into the fireplace and offset
> the natural gas bills next year after the wood dries.
>
> Thank you.
By the time you buy or rent tools to cut it up (or pay to have it
done), pay for the stove/chimney/hearth etc. You will lose money big
time to use it as firewood. Wood heat only saves money if you do it
over a several year span. My wood stove (installed 1981) has paid for
itself, several chainsaws and 3 hi-mileage used pickups. The health
benefits of the excercise I get are a bonus.
Harry K
The Maple might be worth something. Oak burns hot for firewood. The
embedded nails/screws can be found with a metal detector, and modern
mills X-ray the log anyway for the best cutting strategy. The beech can
be used for marine grade plywood, not real good on the looks
department.
Like any business, costs go down with volume, and you don't have much
by lumber standards. There are also access and safety problems not
found in a forest. But if you have to pay for cutting, have them cut it
to your firewood needs.-Jitney
"Goedjn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>> This optimizes the amount of knot-free veneer which can be harvested.
>>
>>I spend 20 years trying to convince a neighbor that she shouldn't plan on
>>sending her sons to college using the income from the 16 American Maples
>>growing close to her house and her utility lines. Estimates that she
>>eventually got ranged around $10,000 - that is her cost of removal, not
>>her
>>income from removal.
>
> Then she's clearly talking to the wrong people.
> Absolute worst case for hardwood trees that that
> aren't half rotted is "Free if you come get it yourself".
>
You're not reading. The trees are near habitations and utilities. That's
liability time, where professionals have to bring 'em down in pieces. One
branch into the side of the neighbor's place is worth the price of removal.
Homeowners' won't cover that stuff.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, this will seem like sacrilege to some, but I have too many trees in
> my yard, an unusual number that is - 20+ full size trees in a 0.4 acre
> backyard. One is a big oak tree (3 foot trunk) but the arborist says
> the base of the trunk is partly eaten away. Another medium sized oak
> in back is stronger but half of it extends over my house. Got some
> others, a pin oak, maple, a beech.
>
> Am I delusional or would someone offer me money for these, either for
> veneer or lumber or firewood ? I'm in the midwest US.
>
> Thge other thought is to put a wood stove into the fireplace and offset
> the natural gas bills next year after the wood dries.
>
Possible, but unlikely, that anyone would pay you for them. Most lumber
mills, even custom veneer houses, won't touch yard or fencerow trees for
fear of embedded metal from old nails from fences and treehouses and such.
Not to mention, of course, the cost of removal is usually much higher in a
yard, due to no place to drop it, and the need to clean up the stump. But
what the hey, it is worth a few phone calls to whatever veneer guys are in
your local phone book. They may pay a token amount, or take it down for free
in exchange for the logs. They may also know the guys on the next step down
the food chain- the firewood guys. They are much more likely to barter
cutting service for all or part of the wood.
If you have never felled a big tree, especially peice-by-piece to avoid
dropping it on a house, I would not recommend DIY. I did a few, as a much
stronger and more immortal kid, and would now pay to get it done. It is hard
frigging (and dangerous) work. And that bucket truck with the air-powered
chainsaw-on-a-stick makes it SO muuch faster...
aem sends...
On 30 Oct 2005 15:32:06 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Hi, this will seem like sacrilege to some, but I have too many trees in
>my yard, an unusual number that is - 20+ full size trees in a 0.4 acre
>backyard. One is a big oak tree (3 foot trunk) but the arborist says
>the base of the trunk is partly eaten away. Another medium sized oak
>in back is stronger but half of it extends over my house. Got some
>others, a pin oak, maple, a beech.
>
>Am I delusional or would someone offer me money for these, either for
>veneer or lumber or firewood ? I'm in the midwest US.
>
>Thge other thought is to put a wood stove into the fireplace and offset
>the natural gas bills next year after the wood dries.
>
>Thank you.
Try posting this again in
rec.crafts.woodturning
There seem to be more interest in green wood from turners than "flat" workers,
because you turn wood when it's wet..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] wrote:
> Got some
> others, a pin oak, maple, a beech.
Don't try it yourself, sir.
Reminds of the days I was a lumberjack in The Sahara Forest.
*pulls up waist belt, sniffs, wipes nose on sleeve and spits*
Well said. You hit on two of the three key problems:
1) Possible embedded metal in the trees. Obviously, chainsaw chains
are expensive. But even more expensive are milling blades and
veneer blades. Imagine the economic loss from a 16 foot veneer
blade which hits a nail.
2) The extra cost of dropping and removing a few trees from a homeowner's
property versus the relative ease of harvesting trees in a forest area.
3) The fact that trees on a homeowner's property are almost never properly
grown for lumber use. Hardwood trees on commercial sites will have
their lower limbs pruned up beyond an 8 foot height as soon as reasonable.
Similarly, lower limbs up to 16 foot high are removed as soon as possible.
This optimizes the amount of knot-free veneer which can be harvested.
I spend 20 years trying to convince a neighbor that she shouldn't plan on
sending her sons to college using the income from the 16 American Maples
growing close to her house and her utility lines. Estimates that she
eventually got ranged around $10,000 - that is her cost of removal, not her
income from removal.
Gideon
====================
ameijers wrote in message ...
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, this will seem like sacrilege to some, but I have too many trees in
> my yard, an unusual number that is - 20+ full size trees in a 0.4 acre
> backyard. One is a big oak tree (3 foot trunk) but the arborist says
> the base of the trunk is partly eaten away. Another medium sized oak
> in back is stronger but half of it extends over my house. Got some
> others, a pin oak, maple, a beech.
>
> Am I delusional or would someone offer me money for these, either for
> veneer or lumber or firewood ? I'm in the midwest US.
>
> Thge other thought is to put a wood stove into the fireplace and offset
> the natural gas bills next year after the wood dries.
>
Possible, but unlikely, that anyone would pay you for them. Most lumber
mills, even custom veneer houses, won't touch yard or fencerow trees for
fear of embedded metal from old nails from fences and treehouses and such.
Not to mention, of course, the cost of removal is usually much higher in a
yard, due to no place to drop it, and the need to clean up the stump. But
what the hey, it is worth a few phone calls to whatever veneer guys are in
your local phone book. They may pay a token amount, or take it down for free
in exchange for the logs. They may also know the guys on the next step down
the food chain- the firewood guys. They are much more likely to barter
cutting service for all or part of the wood.
If you have never felled a big tree, especially peice-by-piece to avoid
dropping it on a house, I would not recommend DIY. I did a few, as a much
stronger and more immortal kid, and would now pay to get it done. It is hard
frigging (and dangerous) work. And that bucket truck with the air-powered
chainsaw-on-a-stick makes it SO muuch faster...
aem sends...
> This optimizes the amount of knot-free veneer which can be harvested.
>
>I spend 20 years trying to convince a neighbor that she shouldn't plan on
>sending her sons to college using the income from the 16 American Maples
>growing close to her house and her utility lines. Estimates that she
>eventually got ranged around $10,000 - that is her cost of removal, not her
>income from removal.
Then she's clearly talking to the wrong people.
Absolute worst case for hardwood trees that that
aren't half rotted is "Free if you come get it yourself".
>