Hey Guys,
As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
that I really need to get a table saw.
I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
jointer too sometime soon.
Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
rather than taking account of my needs?
Thanks,
Adam
"Adam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences and
> he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never heard of
> that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does surprise me
> is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure I
> am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has to
> be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting into
> this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> jointer too sometime soon.
>
> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
I'd suggest the Ridgid table saw available at your local Home Depot. Other
people here seem to have had good experiences with it.
On Dec 7, 1:57 am, Adam <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
> and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
> heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
> surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
> I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
> to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
> into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> jointer too sometime soon.
>
> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
I agree with Mac, go used. You can find decent saws on Craigslist
almost every day for $200 or less.
You can easily get by for years, maybe even forever, with a contractor
saw unless you are regularly cutting 8/4 Maple.
Save the money for other tools and more importantly wood, dead trees
are very expensive.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news>
> I'll second the cast iron top.
And I'll third the cast iron top if there is something like thirding.
There's two other things the OP might consider which was the route I
followed with my first saw.
My first saw was a 1 HP contractor's saw with really heavy cast iron top and
wings. I used it happily and built some relatively nice looking stuff for
years using this stock beast. At some point I found out that a carbide
tipped blade was a good idea. That made a big difference in my projects,
however my projects jumped a quantum level when I added a third party fence
to the mix. The replacement fence cost me $400 CA at the time which was more
than twice what I paid for the saw originally. Of course, 20 years elapsed
between those two purchases, but with the new fence and the carbide tipped
blade, I could build really nice stuff. My only wish is that I'd found out
about them many years earlier.
"NoviceOne" wrote:
.
> My saw bogs down ripping 8/4 hard maple and 8/4 white oak. I've
tuned
> the saw (blade to miter slots, fence, checked arbor runout). I
rewired
> the motor to 230v and have it on a 30a circuit, although I run an
> extension of 10g vs 8g - I should probably rewire that. I have a
Freud
> 24T rip blade on order since I'm not in the mood to nearly
completely
> disassemble the saw to get to 3hp and I've no interest in getting a
new
> saw since I'm in a small shop and everything is fairly intricately
> organized.
Patience is a virtue.
Wait for the 24T Freud.
I use one on a 2HP, 3,400RPM, 230V motor powered T/S for ripping 8/4
white oak with no problems.
Just don't try to force the cut, let the blade do the work.
Have fun.
Lew
On Dec 7, 12:57 am, Adam <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
> and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
> heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
> surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
> I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
> to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
> into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> jointer too sometime soon.
>
> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
Steel City is a relatively new brand. Many of their executives left
Delta to start the company. I don't own any Steel City tools, but
they seem like a good value to me. A thousand dollars buys a middle-
of-the-road tablesaw, not top-of-the-line.
If you stay serious about woodworking, your last saw will probably
cost well over $1,000. But that doesn't mean your first saw has to.
You can find a saw that will meet your needs (for a while) for $500.
If you remain smitten by the woodworking bug, you'll outgrow it and
buy another, but if not, your investment in a passing fancy was
smaller. You'll have to work around some of the shortcomings of a
$500 saw, but I see value in that too. The sweetness of a really fine
tool is only improved by the memory of what you had before.
DonkeyHody
"Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there." - Will Rogers
On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 22:31:47 -0500, "GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>
>My first (and current) table saw set me back $400.00 (home depot). I am
>still using it today. Here are the short comings of my (and possibly other
>low end saws):
>
>1) Under powered. When cutting thick stock of hard wood (maple, cherry,
>etc.) my saw will frequently throw a breaker unless I feed SLOW.
Two suggestions, based on my past experiences with my Jet contractor's
saw:
- Don't use an extension cord
- Use a GOOD 20-24T rip blade on thick stock.
If you're already doing that, consider the lurkers. <G>
With a 40T WWII or 50T Freud combo, I can slow down my 220V, 3 HP
(North American HP, not Far Eastern) General cabinet saw with thick
wood. It'll take 8/4 white oak or maple as fast as I can humanly feed
it with a 24T full-kerf Freud rip blade. I could trip breakers with
the Jet ripping thick stock with a combo blade.
I totally agree about the aluminum top. Leave those for the jobsite
saws.
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
<SNIP>
My first (and current) table saw set me back $400.00 (home depot). I am
still using it today. Here are the short comings of my (and possibly other
low end saws):
1) Under powered. When cutting thick stock of hard wood (maple, cherry,
etc.) my saw will frequently throw a breaker unless I feed SLOW.
2) Poor fence.
3) Table saw surface not perfectly flat.
My primary goal at the time was to insure I was purchasing a TS with a cast
iron top. DO NOT GET AN ALUMINUM top saw.
It is possible to make beautiful furniture with a cheapo $400.00 saw (have
a look at a some of my work and see my saw: www.garagewoodworks.com).
I plan on upgrading to a more powerful saw (PM 2000).
So if I could give a little advice, sure, you can stick with your $500
budget and buy an adequate saw that will allow you to try out the hobby and
potentially make some beautiful furniture along the way!!
I would definitely still stick with my original criteria: CAST IRON TOP.
Try to get one with the beefiest fence within your budget. IMHO, I wouldn't
be overly concerned with power at this point--Sturdy cast iron top, and
beefy fence.
Read all you can about Table Saw Safety!!! The first thing you should make
(or buy) are some push sticks/blocks. Read about SPLITTERS and the dreaded
KICK BACK!
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
RayV wrote:
> On Dec 7, 3:30 pm, RayV <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I agree with Mac, go used. You can find decent saws on Craigslist
>> almost every day for $200 or less.
>>
>> You can easily get by for years, maybe even forever, with a contractor
>> saw unless you are regularly cutting 8/4 Maple.
>>
>> Save the money for other tools and more importantly wood, dead trees
>> are very expensive.
>>
>>
>
> Here's a good starting point on buying used
>
> http://sawdustmaking.com/Table%20Saws/table_saws.htm#Buying%20a%20Used%20Table%20Saw
I'm still using my first saw, a 1960's ten inch Craftsman radial arm
saw. I bought it used in the 1970's. Good stationary tools last
forever, so the only real difference between new and used is the
condition of the paintwork. Table saws are simple machines, and there
is little to go wrong that cannot be fixed or replaced.
Check out craigs list, yard sales, E-bay, shopper throw away rags.
You want to inspect a used tool. Dirt can be cleaned off, but rust is
harder, and indicates poor maintenance by the seller. Cast iron makes
the best tools because it doesn't bend (break maybe but never bend) so
thing stay aligned, straight and square. You want a cast iron table for
sure and a cast iron base is good too. A separate motor driving the
blade via belt is good, 'cause you can replace the motor if it dies on
you with nothing more than open end wrenches. Bring a flash light and a
rag and inspect all the castings for cracks. Cracks can be brazed, but
you need the right guy to do properly. It's tricky work and not all
welders can do it well.
Table saws come in small (benchtop) medium (contractor's) and large
(cabinet). Big saws will cut small stuff, small saws may choke on big
stuff. Ten inch saws have always been big enough for me, they can rip 2
inch stock with ease. All saws need a lot of clearance around them to
permit big stock to run thru the saw without striking walls, lally
columns, drainpipes, the furnace. A small saw wants the same clearance
around it as a big one, the amount of shop floor space consumed by the
saw is the same for big saws and small saws. If space is tight, radial
arm saws need one half the clearance of table saws.
Good saws give a smooth cut, and a straight and square cut. Cut
smoothness is really a matter of blade sharpness, I would treat any used
saw to a nice new carbide blade just on general principles. Sharp
blades reduce kickback. Squareness and straightness are a function of
fence, table flatness, tool alignment (which you can adjust, and often
needs adjustment on used tools) and table size. Larger is better for
both table and fence.
When you see a saw you like, get the name and model number and google
for it. Look for reviews, users comments, prices, manuals with
alignment instructions, makers website, and "how do I fix this" queries.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
On Dec 7, 1:57 am, Adam <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
> and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
> heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
> surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
> I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
> to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
> into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> jointer too sometime soon.
>
> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
Check out the Sears (Orion) hybrid saws.
Orion is made up of ex-Delta employees as I understand it.
These hybrids are an exceptionally good value and can be had at large
discounts, figuring in "Craftsman Club", coupons, etc.
The following link is for the saw I own, a 22114. It's a beauty.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00922114000P?keyword=22114
And no, I have no vested interest in Sears.
On Dec 7, 3:30 pm, RayV <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I agree with Mac, go used. You can find decent saws on Craigslist
> almost every day for $200 or less.
>
> You can easily get by for years, maybe even forever, with a contractor
> saw unless you are regularly cutting 8/4 Maple.
>
> Save the money for other tools and more importantly wood, dead trees
> are very expensive.
>
>
Here's a good starting point on buying used
http://sawdustmaking.com/Table%20Saws/table_saws.htm#Buying%20a%20Used%20Table%20Saw
On Dec 8, 4:42 pm, NoviceOne <[email protected]> wrote:
> Last post from me on this. I downloaded Steel City's manual for the
> hybrid cabinet saw that is basically the same as my Craftsman.
> Evaluating the exploded parts diagrams there's more to going from 1.75hp
> to 3hp than swapping a motor. The powerswitch is different (I'm
> guessing magnetic), some components of the arbor assembly, the elevating
> bracket, pulleys and belt.
>
> After reviewing the Freud 24T blade on the recommendation of a post from
> Bonehenge later in this thread, many Amazon reviewers of the LU87R010
> thin kerf 24T rip blade were highly complimentary of its ability to
> handle larger stock without having to upgrade an underpowered saw. So
> that's what I'll try before going the upgrade route.
>
> dpb wrote:
> > NoviceOne wrote:
> >> A friend offered up a Unisaw 3hp motor, but the mount was *completely*
> >> different, and the motor quite large. The motor on this saw is
> >> basically connected to the machine via a steel plate, about 4"x6" with
> >> four mounting bolt holes. I'm pretty sure a 3hp replacement would
> >> work because Steel City does sell a 3hp version that, from their
> >> brochure, has the same trunnion. The unknown, I guess, is that when
> >> people mock up brochures the sometimes use photos that are not
> >> necessarily exactly correct - but the cabinet and table and everything
> >> else in the spec looks the same as far as I can tell.
>
> >> I guess I should just take the motor out and live without the saw
> >> while a shop gets me a replacement.
> > ...
>
> > That sounds like standard NEMA mounting then -- if you measure the
> > distance between mounting there are standard sizes/dimensions. The key
> > still will be the overall dimensions from the plate to shaft centerline,
> > motor height and length as to whether there is sufficient clearance. All
> > that is simple enough to measure and will be available for any motor
> > from the spec's.
>
> > What you need is how much clearance do you have above the present when
> > the saw is at the extremes of up/down in both the 90- and 45-deg
> > positions on all sides to determine how much larger dimension you can
> > tolerate.
>
> > --
Whole lot of difference, including a need for a 240 volt power source,
something your 120 volt hybrid does not require. A true three HP motor
is a monster to mount, too, as it is considerably heftier than your
1-3/4.
I wouldn't bother: get the Freud ripping blade (they also make a fine
30 tooth finish rip blade, but you probably want the 24 tooth) or a
CMT rip blade or an Infinity. You might also get a Forrest rip blade.
You'll find the top notch rip blade reduces power needs considerably
over what, IIRC, is a 40 tooth general use blade. Make sure you are on
a 20 amp circuit and are NOT using any kind of extension cord, unless
it is 10 gauge or heavier (8, say)...
On Dec 7, 8:44 am, DonkeyHody <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Dec 7, 12:57 am, Adam <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hey Guys,
>
> > As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> > and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> > that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> > I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> > sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
> > and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
> > heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
> > surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> > I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> > model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> > wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> > I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
> > I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
> > to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> > What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
> > into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> > I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> > jointer too sometime soon.
>
> > Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> > rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Adam
>
> Steel City is a relatively new brand. Many of their executives left
> Delta to start the company. I don't own any Steel City tools, but
> they seem like a good value to me. A thousand dollars buys a middle-
> of-the-road tablesaw, not top-of-the-line.
>
> If you stay serious about woodworking, your last saw will probably
> cost well over $1,000. But that doesn't mean your first saw has to.
> You can find a saw that will meet your needs (for a while) for $500.
> If you remain smitten by the woodworking bug, you'll outgrow it and
> buy another, but if not, your investment in a passing fancy was
> smaller. You'll have to work around some of the shortcomings of a
> $500 saw, but I see value in that too. The sweetness of a really fine
> tool is only improved by the memory of what you had before.
>
Agreed. I have a Steel City 16" bandsaw: it is one of the best 16"
bandsaws I've used, within anything like its price range. Pay $600
extra and you can do better. I don't know their table saws well, but
they look much like slightly modified Delta designs (which makes
sense: Steel City execs are mostly old Delta hands, and the tool
designs are classics that work), with decent prices.
That said, I've used two of the Ridgid tablesaws over the years and
found them both reasonably precise. They won't give the cutting power
you need for a lot of heavy oak or maple cutting (5/4 wood and above
can bog them easily), but for most jobs that the amateur woodworker
does, they are well above simply sufficient. The hybrid saws--and I
used a Craftsman 1-3/4 HP Orion based model for several years--work
well, give almost the results you get with a full cabinet saw, but
weigh a tad less, and cost a bit less. They are also down on power for
heavy duty woodworking, but, as noted, most amateurs do NOT need that
power 99% of the time or more. The Craftsman models use the Biesemeyer
T square fence, which is also a classic and excellent design. The top
notch hybrids, regardless of seller, whether Craftsman, Delta, DeWalt,
Grizzly, Jet, or anyone else, all have fine fences, good features, and
take up less space than a contractor style saw but cost more, usually
about $250 to $350 more than the same brand of contractor saw.
If I were just starting--ah, youth--and wasn't sure of the depth of my
long term interest, I'd start with something like a Ridgid or Grizzly
or Jet or Delta or other contractor's saw. If my memory is working,
the Ridgid is about the lowest cost in that batch. If interest remains
at the end of a year or two, sell that for maybe 65% of what it cost,
and apply that to a saw better suited to your increasing skills.
This is also the saw that I use and am very happy with it. I have replaced
the standard fence with an INCRA - best thing I ever did for reproducing
cuts.
My first saw was very cheap -- one of those $200 specials at Sears. Taught
me a bit more than ecpected and lasted about 6 months before I spent the
exra cash for what I use now.
Moral of the story --- $200 got me started and made me feel that a nicer saw
would allow me to continue in a hobby that I find very enjoyable. When I
spent the first $200 I wasn's sure what I wanted to do so it was a minimal
investment that ended up selling on Craigs list for $120. Not bad return for
the crap it was.
Thom
"Gus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:5ad5456b-6172-49de-9688-ca26744848b9@x69g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
> On Dec 7, 1:57 am, Adam <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Hey Guys,
>>
>> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
>> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
>> that I really need to get a table saw.
>>
>> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
>> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
>> and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
>> heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
>> surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>>
>> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
>> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
>> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>>
>> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
>> I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
>> to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>>
>> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
>> into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>>
>> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
>> jointer too sometime soon.
>>
>> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
>> rather than taking account of my needs?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Adam
>
> Check out the Sears (Orion) hybrid saws.
>
> Orion is made up of ex-Delta employees as I understand it.
>
> These hybrids are an exceptionally good value and can be had at large
> discounts, figuring in "Craftsman Club", coupons, etc.
>
> The following link is for the saw I own, a 22114. It's a beauty.
>
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00922114000P?keyword=22114
>
> And no, I have no vested interest in Sears.
On Dec 7, 1:57 am, Adam <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of thwant it to do in the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
> and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
> heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
> surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> Adam
You are looking for someone else to do your work for you and will
soon realize they have it done it poorly. YOU need to go
to the library and read every back issue of every woodworking
magazine that has a review of contractor, hybrid and cabinet
saws available. Make a list of what you want to do with the
saw right now, what you may it to do in the future, and how
much money you have to spend (forget the jointer for now,
put your money into a good saw!). Then travel as far as
necessary to put your hands on each saw and get a feel
for each. Then decide for yourself which will make you
happy. If you won't do this then be prepared to blow in
the wind as each saw bias come charging at you from
the many experts you find here.
Adam,
Buy a contractors style table saw. Jet, Delta, Rigid are all good brands. I
bought my Jet for less than $500.00 5 years ago and love it. We bought it
for our restoration business and it has served us well.
www.vintagetrailersforsale.com
cm
"Adam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences and
> he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never heard of
> that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does surprise me
> is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure I
> am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has to
> be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting into
> this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> jointer too sometime soon.
>
> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
My saw bogs down ripping 8/4 hard maple and 8/4 white oak. I've tuned
the saw (blade to miter slots, fence, checked arbor runout). I rewired
the motor to 230v and have it on a 30a circuit, although I run an
extension of 10g vs 8g - I should probably rewire that. I have a Freud
24T rip blade on order since I'm not in the mood to nearly completely
disassemble the saw to get to 3hp and I've no interest in getting a new
saw since I'm in a small shop and everything is fairly intricately
organized.
J. Clarke wrote:
> NoviceOne wrote:
>> Last post from me on this. I downloaded Steel City's manual for the
>> hybrid cabinet saw that is basically the same as my Craftsman.
>> Evaluating the exploded parts diagrams there's more to going from
>> 1.75hp to 3hp than swapping a motor. The powerswitch is different
>> (I'm guessing magnetic), some components of the arbor assembly, the
>> elevating bracket, pulleys and belt.
>>
>> After reviewing the Freud 24T blade on the recommendation of a post
>> from Bonehenge later in this thread, many Amazon reviewers of the
>> LU87R010 thin kerf 24T rip blade were highly complimentary of its
>> ability to handle larger stock without having to upgrade an
>> underpowered saw. So that's what I'll try before going the upgrade
>> route.
>
> Under what circumstances is your saw bogging down?
>
>> dpb wrote:
>>> NoviceOne wrote:
>>>> A friend offered up a Unisaw 3hp motor, but the mount was
>>>> *completely* different, and the motor quite large. The motor on
>>>> this saw is basically connected to the machine via a steel plate,
>>>> about 4"x6" with four mounting bolt holes. I'm pretty sure a 3hp
>>>> replacement would work because Steel City does sell a 3hp version
>>>> that, from their brochure, has the same trunnion. The unknown, I
>>>> guess, is that when people mock up brochures the sometimes use
>>>> photos that are not necessarily exactly correct - but the cabinet
>>>> and table and everything else in the spec looks the same as far as
>>>> I can tell.
>>>>
>>>> I guess I should just take the motor out and live without the saw
>>>> while a shop gets me a replacement.
>>> ...
>>>
>>> That sounds like standard NEMA mounting then -- if you measure the
>>> distance between mounting there are standard sizes/dimensions. The
>>> key still will be the overall dimensions from the plate to shaft
>>> centerline, motor height and length as to whether there is
>>> sufficient clearance. All that is simple enough to measure and will
>>> be available for any motor from the spec's.
>>>
>>> What you need is how much clearance do you have above the present
>>> when the saw is at the extremes of up/down in both the 90- and
>>> 45-deg
>>> positions on all sides to determine how much larger dimension you
>>> can
>>> tolerate.
>>>
>>> --
>
"GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
> So if I could give a little advice, sure, you can stick with your $500
> budget and buy an adequate saw that will allow you to try out the hobby
> and potentially make some beautiful furniture along the way!!
>
> I would definitely still stick with my original criteria: CAST IRON TOP.
> Try to get one with the beefiest fence within your budget. IMHO, I
> wouldn't be overly concerned with power at this point--Sturdy cast iron
> top, and beefy fence.
Depending on where you live, you can often find good used saws at the $500
range. Do some shopping to get a feel for price so you don't end up paying
$500 for a beat saw that originally cost $525. If you can get equivalent to
the $1000 model you looked at for $500 in good condition, grab it. Tablesaw
technology has not changed much in 50 years so you may get a real gem with a
few years on it.
Don't buy a cheap direct drive benchtop model.
I'll second the cast iron top.
"Adam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences and
> he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never heard of
> that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does surprise me
> is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure I
> am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has to
> be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting into
> this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> jointer too sometime soon.
>
> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
I would suggest that you go to grizzly.com and look at thier line of TS
price range is from $95 to $9000. You should be able to get something
decent there for around half of the wood craft price. They make a good tool
for the money and the service dept is good.
A friend offered up a Unisaw 3hp motor, but the mount was *completely*
different, and the motor quite large. The motor on this saw is
basically connected to the machine via a steel plate, about 4"x6" with
four mounting bolt holes. I'm pretty sure a 3hp replacement would work
because Steel City does sell a 3hp version that, from their brochure,
has the same trunnion. The unknown, I guess, is that when people mock
up brochures the sometimes use photos that are not necessarily exactly
correct - but the cabinet and table and everything else in the spec
looks the same as far as I can tell.
I guess I should just take the motor out and live without the saw while
a shop gets me a replacement.
Thanks.
dpb wrote:
> NoviceOne wrote:
>> I bought the Craftsman branded version of this. I compared photos of
>> the Steel City trunnion with that on my saw and they're the same.
>> That interests me because I've found the 1.75hp motor to be a
>> limitation and I'd like to replace it with a 3hp motor. I emailed
>> Steel City asking if I could upgrade the motor and they suggested I
>> buy a new saw of theirs.
>>
>> Does anyone know the the specification of the 1.75hp motor? Perhaps
>> if I had that I could go to a local motor shop and get a 3hp to
>> replace the under powered motor.
> ...
>
> Is the motor integrally mounted or on a standard baseplate? If the
> latter it shouldn't be too difficult. The problem you may run into even
> in that case is sufficient clearance to be able to raise the blade to
> full height or to tilt the blade to full 45 because the larger HP motor
> will have a larger footprint.
>
> I've not seen the Steel City up close enough to know -- all I've seen
> are the outside pictures in the slick-paper ads. I'd suspect it isn't,
> but if it were mounted more like most contractor saws your chances would
> be reasonably good I would guess. If it's more of the Unisaur/tablesaw
> integral mount, not so good...
>
> --
On Dec 7, 6:43 am, "efgh" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Adam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > Hey Guys,
>
> > As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> > and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> > that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> > I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> > sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences and
> > he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never heard of
> > that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does surprise me
> > is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> > I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> > model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> > wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> > I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure I
> > am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has to
> > be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> > What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting into
> > this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> > I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> > jointer too sometime soon.
>
> > Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> > rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Adam
>
> I'd suggest the Ridgid table saw available at your local Home Depot. Other
> people here seem to have had good experiences with it.
I second to that - I got my ridgid 3650 with 36" ripping fence and
super lifting wheels to move this 300lb cast iron saw around the shop.
With 2.5" dust collection port I have it connected to delta dust
collection with 1200cfm and still under $1000 for both.
On Dec 7, 1:57 am, Adam <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
> and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
> heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
> surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
> I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
> to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
> into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> jointer too sometime soon.
>
> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
Watch the smaller one's for length of the arbor if you want to use
a dado blade.
I bought the Craftsman branded version of this. I compared photos of
the Steel City trunnion with that on my saw and they're the same. That
interests me because I've found the 1.75hp motor to be a limitation and
I'd like to replace it with a 3hp motor. I emailed Steel City asking if
I could upgrade the motor and they suggested I buy a new saw of theirs.
Does anyone know the the specification of the 1.75hp motor? Perhaps if
I had that I could go to a local motor shop and get a 3hp to replace the
under powered motor.
A beginner.
Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Fri, 07 Dec 2007 05:44:54 -0800, DonkeyHody wrote:
>
>> Steel City is a relatively new brand. Many of their executives left
>> Delta to start the company. I don't own any Steel City tools, but
>> they seem like a good value to me. A thousand dollars buys a middle-
>> of-the-road tablesaw, not top-of-the-line.
>
> Steel City actually has a small cabinet saw for around $900. It's a real
> cabinet saw but with a 1.75HP motor and runs on 110.
>
> Maybe a bit much for someone who's not sure he'll like woodworking, but
> for those past that point and looking for a saw I think it's a pretty good
> choice.
>
> And yes, I work part-time at Woodcraft. We have a lot of nice saws I'd
> suggest for an experienced woodworker, including the SawStop, but I think
> the little Steel City is in a class by itself. Other Woodcrafters may
> not agree :-).
>
NoviceOne wrote:
> I bought the Craftsman branded version of this. I compared photos of
> the Steel City trunnion with that on my saw and they're the same. That
> interests me because I've found the 1.75hp motor to be a limitation and
> I'd like to replace it with a 3hp motor. I emailed Steel City asking if
> I could upgrade the motor and they suggested I buy a new saw of theirs.
>
> Does anyone know the the specification of the 1.75hp motor? Perhaps if
> I had that I could go to a local motor shop and get a 3hp to replace the
> under powered motor.
...
Is the motor integrally mounted or on a standard baseplate? If the
latter it shouldn't be too difficult. The problem you may run into even
in that case is sufficient clearance to be able to raise the blade to
full height or to tilt the blade to full 45 because the larger HP motor
will have a larger footprint.
I've not seen the Steel City up close enough to know -- all I've seen
are the outside pictures in the slick-paper ads. I'd suspect it isn't,
but if it were mounted more like most contractor saws your chances would
be reasonably good I would guess. If it's more of the Unisaur/tablesaw
integral mount, not so good...
--
NoviceOne wrote:
> A friend offered up a Unisaw 3hp motor, but the mount was *completely*
> different, and the motor quite large. The motor on this saw is
> basically connected to the machine via a steel plate, about 4"x6" with
> four mounting bolt holes. I'm pretty sure a 3hp replacement would work
> because Steel City does sell a 3hp version that, from their brochure,
> has the same trunnion. The unknown, I guess, is that when people mock
> up brochures the sometimes use photos that are not necessarily exactly
> correct - but the cabinet and table and everything else in the spec
> looks the same as far as I can tell.
>
> I guess I should just take the motor out and live without the saw while
> a shop gets me a replacement.
...
That sounds like standard NEMA mounting then -- if you measure the
distance between mounting there are standard sizes/dimensions. The key
still will be the overall dimensions from the plate to shaft centerline,
motor height and length as to whether there is sufficient clearance.
All that is simple enough to measure and will be available for any motor
from the spec's.
What you need is how much clearance do you have above the present when
the saw is at the extremes of up/down in both the 90- and 45-deg
positions on all sides to determine how much larger dimension you can
tolerate.
--
NoviceOne wrote:
> Last post from me on this. I downloaded Steel City's manual for the
> hybrid cabinet saw that is basically the same as my Craftsman.
> Evaluating the exploded parts diagrams there's more to going from
> 1.75hp to 3hp than swapping a motor. The powerswitch is different
> (I'm guessing magnetic), some components of the arbor assembly, the
> elevating bracket, pulleys and belt.
>
> After reviewing the Freud 24T blade on the recommendation of a post
> from Bonehenge later in this thread, many Amazon reviewers of the
> LU87R010 thin kerf 24T rip blade were highly complimentary of its
> ability to handle larger stock without having to upgrade an
> underpowered saw. So that's what I'll try before going the upgrade
> route.
Under what circumstances is your saw bogging down?
> dpb wrote:
>> NoviceOne wrote:
>>> A friend offered up a Unisaw 3hp motor, but the mount was
>>> *completely* different, and the motor quite large. The motor on
>>> this saw is basically connected to the machine via a steel plate,
>>> about 4"x6" with four mounting bolt holes. I'm pretty sure a 3hp
>>> replacement would work because Steel City does sell a 3hp version
>>> that, from their brochure, has the same trunnion. The unknown, I
>>> guess, is that when people mock up brochures the sometimes use
>>> photos that are not necessarily exactly correct - but the cabinet
>>> and table and everything else in the spec looks the same as far as
>>> I can tell.
>>>
>>> I guess I should just take the motor out and live without the saw
>>> while a shop gets me a replacement.
>> ...
>>
>> That sounds like standard NEMA mounting then -- if you measure the
>> distance between mounting there are standard sizes/dimensions. The
>> key still will be the overall dimensions from the plate to shaft
>> centerline, motor height and length as to whether there is
>> sufficient clearance. All that is simple enough to measure and will
>> be available for any motor from the spec's.
>>
>> What you need is how much clearance do you have above the present
>> when the saw is at the extremes of up/down in both the 90- and
>> 45-deg
>> positions on all sides to determine how much larger dimension you
>> can
>> tolerate.
>>
>> --
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
NoviceOne wrote:
> My saw bogs down ripping 8/4 hard maple and 8/4 white oak. I've
> tuned
> the saw (blade to miter slots, fence, checked arbor runout). I
> rewired the motor to 230v and have it on a 30a circuit, although I
> run an extension of 10g vs 8g - I should probably rewire that. I
> have a Freud 24T rip blade on order since I'm not in the mood to
> nearly completely disassemble the saw to get to 3hp and I've no
> interest in getting a new saw since I'm in a small shop and
> everything is fairly intricately organized.
Well, that's how I'd expect it to bog down and the 24T rip blade
should address the problem.
>
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> NoviceOne wrote:
>>> Last post from me on this. I downloaded Steel City's manual for
>>> the
>>> hybrid cabinet saw that is basically the same as my Craftsman.
>>> Evaluating the exploded parts diagrams there's more to going from
>>> 1.75hp to 3hp than swapping a motor. The powerswitch is different
>>> (I'm guessing magnetic), some components of the arbor assembly,
>>> the
>>> elevating bracket, pulleys and belt.
>>>
>>> After reviewing the Freud 24T blade on the recommendation of a
>>> post
>>> from Bonehenge later in this thread, many Amazon reviewers of the
>>> LU87R010 thin kerf 24T rip blade were highly complimentary of its
>>> ability to handle larger stock without having to upgrade an
>>> underpowered saw. So that's what I'll try before going the
>>> upgrade
>>> route.
>>
>> Under what circumstances is your saw bogging down?
>>
>>> dpb wrote:
>>>> NoviceOne wrote:
>>>>> A friend offered up a Unisaw 3hp motor, but the mount was
>>>>> *completely* different, and the motor quite large. The motor on
>>>>> this saw is basically connected to the machine via a steel
>>>>> plate,
>>>>> about 4"x6" with four mounting bolt holes. I'm pretty sure a
>>>>> 3hp
>>>>> replacement would work because Steel City does sell a 3hp
>>>>> version
>>>>> that, from their brochure, has the same trunnion. The unknown,
>>>>> I
>>>>> guess, is that when people mock up brochures the sometimes use
>>>>> photos that are not necessarily exactly correct - but the
>>>>> cabinet
>>>>> and table and everything else in the spec looks the same as far
>>>>> as
>>>>> I can tell.
>>>>>
>>>>> I guess I should just take the motor out and live without the
>>>>> saw
>>>>> while a shop gets me a replacement.
>>>> ...
>>>>
>>>> That sounds like standard NEMA mounting then -- if you measure
>>>> the
>>>> distance between mounting there are standard sizes/dimensions.
>>>> The
>>>> key still will be the overall dimensions from the plate to shaft
>>>> centerline, motor height and length as to whether there is
>>>> sufficient clearance. All that is simple enough to measure and
>>>> will
>>>> be available for any motor from the spec's.
>>>>
>>>> What you need is how much clearance do you have above the present
>>>> when the saw is at the extremes of up/down in both the 90- and
>>>> 45-deg
>>>> positions on all sides to determine how much larger dimension you
>>>> can
>>>> tolerate.
>>>>
>>>> --
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
"NoviceOne" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My saw bogs down ripping 8/4 hard maple and 8/4 white oak. I've tuned the
> saw (blade to miter slots, fence, checked arbor runout). I rewired the
> motor to 230v and have it on a 30a circuit, although I run an extension of
> 10g vs 8g - I should probably rewire that. I have a Freud 24T rip blade
> on order since I'm not in the mood to nearly completely disassemble the
> saw to get to 3hp and I've no interest in getting a new saw since I'm in a
> small shop and everything is fairly intricately organized.
Feed slower and be patient. 8/4 maple is tough stuff and no amount of
tuning is going to add 1 1/2 hp to the saw.
In article <[email protected]>,
Adam <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
> and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
> heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
> surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
> I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
> to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
> into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> jointer too sometime soon.
>
> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
Adam,
Selecting the best saw for your needs is going to be tough or maybe easy
depending on your attitude. There is no perfect saw, everyone's needs
are a little different, etc. In fact if you do some research you'll find
that knowledgeable experts can come to opposite conclusions - compare
some of those magazine tool tests.
I am not a knowledgeable expert, but here's what I did. After many years
of using various saws in other shops, I set up shop at home. I went
through about the same questions that you are dealing with. I wound up
with a Jet contractor saw, and it has done a really good job for me. But
I wouldn't consider more expensive saws at the time because I didn't
understand how I could justify all that money. I soon realized that my
Jet could use some improvements to make it easier to do accurate work.
I now have the Jet contractor's saw with a much better fence (General,
Canada), a Biesemeyer splitter, a link belt, some balanced pulleys,
mobile base, outfeed and right side extensions (with router table), an
Excaliber blade guard for dust control, Forrest blade, good miter
gauge(s), TS Aligner to keep things straight, and I can't remember what
else. It's a very good basic saw and now does beautiful work as long as
I'm careful so everything stays in-alignment. But if I add up the money
I've spent improving it I'm sure I have more than paid for a top quality
cabinet saw - but I still don't really have cabinet saw precision.
If I were to replace my saw right now, I'd buy either a SawStop, or a
Powermatic. I've already paid the equivalent of the Powermatic, and if I
add up all the time I've spent overcoming the shortcomings of my Jet I
bet it would equal the cost of the SawStop.
You can cut wood with a straight edge and a sharp rock but you'll
eventually want things to be a bit easier. And beginners need precise
tools more than experts do. Whether that precision turns out to be
overkill is unknowable now but interesting to think about.
Good luck, and enjoy your set-up whatever it turns out to be.
PDX David
On Fri, 07 Dec 2007 05:44:54 -0800, DonkeyHody wrote:
> Steel City is a relatively new brand. Many of their executives left
> Delta to start the company. I don't own any Steel City tools, but
> they seem like a good value to me. A thousand dollars buys a middle-
> of-the-road tablesaw, not top-of-the-line.
Steel City actually has a small cabinet saw for around $900. It's a real
cabinet saw but with a 1.75HP motor and runs on 110.
Maybe a bit much for someone who's not sure he'll like woodworking, but
for those past that point and looking for a saw I think it's a pretty good
choice.
And yes, I work part-time at Woodcraft. We have a lot of nice saws I'd
suggest for an experienced woodworker, including the SawStop, but I think
the little Steel City is in a class by itself. Other Woodcrafters may
not agree :-).
On Fri, 07 Dec 2007 00:57:42 -0600, Adam <[email protected]> wrote:
[top posted cuz I'm lazy]
I always recommend that your first table saw be used and cheap, so you can make
mistakes on it and not beat up/abuse a new saw..
Having said that and done that, I have to say that I bought the Ridgid TS3650 at
Home Depot about 6 months ago and I'm very impressed with it..
I'm certainly not a saw expert, but I really like the large table/wings, the
solid fence with the magnified rule, and how quiet it is. (compared to my
Shopsmith, anyway)
A big plus for me was that it comes with their "Herculift" mobile base.. An
option on most saws..
All-in-all, I think it's a lot of saw for $550...
>Hey Guys,
>
>As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
>and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
>that I really need to get a table saw.
>
>I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
>sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
>and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
>heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
>surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
>I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
>model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
>wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
>I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
>I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
>to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
>What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
>into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
>I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
>jointer too sometime soon.
>
>Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
>rather than taking account of my needs?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Adam
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
I'll give you the advice that most of the people here would. If you're
really going to get into woodworking, your table saw is the cornerstone of
your workshop. It's the most used and most important tool you'll ever buy.
So choose wisely!
That being said, I survived 10+ years with a 10" Craftsmen contractor's
style saw. I added a decent aftermarket Vega fence to it and was pretty
happy. Saw had its limitations but I built a lot of furniture on it over the
years. But after replacing it with a Delta Unisaw some years ago, I wonder
what took me so long to go to a more powerful cabinet saw. Yes, it's more
expensive - but the advantages, the power, precision, etc are well worth it.
Girzzly has some decent models at various price points - but you get what
you pay for. Steel City is a new entry into the market and by all accounts
has done a really solid job of designing good tools for woodworkers and
maintained good quality control over production. Powermatics always seem to
be great tools (top end cabinet saws). SawStop is probably a must to at
least look at. Reviews are good on the tool and the safety feature is a
really good idea for someone getting into woodworking - but very pricey. I'd
probably go the SawStop route if purchasing again. The Marc Adams school
replaced all their saws with SawStops (I'm sure there were liability
concerns as a school with thouands of students using them) and they seem to
like them.
So bottom line - to me, the table saw is the most important tool purchase
you'll make (until the next one). Buy as much quality as you can and you'll
be happy you did.
my 2 cents
Gary A in KC
"Adam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey Guys,
>
> As I start to watch more and more wood working shows I start to get more
> and more ideas as to different things I'd like to build. I am realizing
> that I really need to get a table saw.
>
> I was just at my local Woodcraft store and got to talking to one of the
> sales people about table saws. I was asking him about the differences
> and he was really pushing me towards a Steelcity brand. I have never
> heard of that brand, but that doesn't surprise me too much. What does
> surprise me is that he was initially pushing me towards a $1000 model.
>
> I mentioned that the model was a little pricey, so he pointed to another
> model (not sure which one), but discounted it by saying that the fence
> wasn't that good and I would be much better off with the Steelcity model.
>
> I'd hate to buy something that is going to be way more than I need. Sure
> I am looking for precision, but not at a huge cost. I am sure there has
> to be something at a lower cost that is reasonable.
>
> What kind of table saws do you guys recommend for a guy just getting
> into this and also for one who doesn't have a TON of room?
>
> I'd really do not want to go over $500 as I would like to pick up a
> jointer too sometime soon.
>
> Also can someone confirm whether or not he was trying to up-sell to me
> rather than taking account of my needs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
Last post from me on this. I downloaded Steel City's manual for the
hybrid cabinet saw that is basically the same as my Craftsman.
Evaluating the exploded parts diagrams there's more to going from 1.75hp
to 3hp than swapping a motor. The powerswitch is different (I'm
guessing magnetic), some components of the arbor assembly, the elevating
bracket, pulleys and belt.
After reviewing the Freud 24T blade on the recommendation of a post from
Bonehenge later in this thread, many Amazon reviewers of the LU87R010
thin kerf 24T rip blade were highly complimentary of its ability to
handle larger stock without having to upgrade an underpowered saw. So
that's what I'll try before going the upgrade route.
dpb wrote:
> NoviceOne wrote:
>> A friend offered up a Unisaw 3hp motor, but the mount was *completely*
>> different, and the motor quite large. The motor on this saw is
>> basically connected to the machine via a steel plate, about 4"x6" with
>> four mounting bolt holes. I'm pretty sure a 3hp replacement would
>> work because Steel City does sell a 3hp version that, from their
>> brochure, has the same trunnion. The unknown, I guess, is that when
>> people mock up brochures the sometimes use photos that are not
>> necessarily exactly correct - but the cabinet and table and everything
>> else in the spec looks the same as far as I can tell.
>>
>> I guess I should just take the motor out and live without the saw
>> while a shop gets me a replacement.
> ...
>
> That sounds like standard NEMA mounting then -- if you measure the
> distance between mounting there are standard sizes/dimensions. The key
> still will be the overall dimensions from the plate to shaft centerline,
> motor height and length as to whether there is sufficient clearance. All
> that is simple enough to measure and will be available for any motor
> from the spec's.
>
> What you need is how much clearance do you have above the present when
> the saw is at the extremes of up/down in both the 90- and 45-deg
> positions on all sides to determine how much larger dimension you can
> tolerate.
>
> --