don't have this one but it will pull the dust into the bottom and "burn
it off" just like the ones you can get at the borg. I have an infrared
or catalyst type and I like it (yes, it still "burns off" the dust).
there are others that feel that your shop will blow up if you use these
and only recommend a sealed burner unit, $$$.
BRuce
Tony DiBratto wrote:
> Looking for a heater for my garage workshop. Came across the
> www.heatershop.com site. They have a wall mounted natural gas heater which
> is ventless and claims to be suitable for dusty workshops. Just wondering
> if anyone has any experiences with this heater good or bad.
>
> Thx.
>
>
--
---
BRuce
This is nonsense, yes there is water vapor produced by burning propane
BUT it is not enough to raise the humidity any higher than a usual
summer day in the southern US. Perhaps even less.
I have used mine for 2 full seasons, (closed shop, no windows, 13 x 27)
this will be the third season and there isn't anymore dampness in the
air than at any other time. My tools don't rust any faster in the
winter than at any other time.
if you subject your shop to rapid temperature swings you will get more
rust from that than any propane heater.
BRuce
Greg O wrote:
> "Tony DiBratto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Looking for a heater for my garage workshop. Came across the
>>www.heatershop.com site. They have a wall mounted natural gas heater
>
> which
>
>>is ventless and claims to be suitable for dusty workshops. Just wondering
>>if anyone has any experiences with this heater good or bad.
>>
>>Thx.
>>
>>
>
>
> Ventless is a poor idea for anywhere. The moisture produced from burning gas
> will raise the humidity of your shop greatly.
> Go with a vented unit heater, Reznor, Modine, plus others out there are much
> better.
> Greg
>
>
--
---
BRuce
why would anything be cold? It has been in the shop and I specifically
addressed large temperature swings. if your leave the heater on pilot
and the temp gets to 35 and then you run out and jack it up to 65 then
you are going to get condensation regardless of the type of heat.
propane may put some additional water vapor into the air but it won't
make any difference in the rust factor.
BRuce
Mark wrote:
>
>
> BRuce wrote:
>
>> This is nonsense, yes there is water vapor produced by burning propane
>> BUT it is not enough to raise the humidity any higher than a usual
>> summer day in the southern US. Perhaps even less.
>
>
>
>
> You've never seen anything cold (glass, can, bottle) sweat on a typical
> summer day? Hell, it doesn't even have to be cold.
>
> Humid air + cold surfaces = condensation.
>
>
> I've seen it in my own shop. While working at the propane retailer I was
> asked what could be done about it by people having problems, notably
> their tools getting wet.
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Mark
>
> N.E. Ohio
>
>
> Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
> A.K.A. Mark Twain)
>
> When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
> suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
>
--
---
BRuce
BRuce wrote:
> This is nonsense, yes there is water vapor produced by burning propane
> BUT it is not enough to raise the humidity any higher than a usual
> summer day in the southern US. Perhaps even less.
Having been to Atlanta in August I'd say you're correct. About 85% to 100%
humidity at 75 degrees, dropping to about 55% - 60% at 100 degrees.
Does anybody know what that would equate to when the temperature is dropped to say
40 degrees?
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 20:38:03 GMT, Nova <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:
>BRuce wrote:
>
>> This is nonsense, yes there is water vapor produced by burning propane
>> BUT it is not enough to raise the humidity any higher than a usual
>> summer day in the southern US. Perhaps even less.
>
>Having been to Atlanta in August I'd say you're correct. About 85% to 100%
>humidity at 75 degrees, dropping to about 55% - 60% at 100 degrees.
>
>Does anybody know what that would equate to when the temperature is dropped to say
>40 degrees?
Bloody cold, Yack. (Sorry, couldn't resist.)
http://www.srh.noaa.gov/jan/new_metcal_java.html
Meterological calc online. Will this help?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
A PSYCHOLOGIST looks at everyone -else- || http://www.diversify.com
when an attractive woman enters the room. || Full Website Programming
BRuce wrote:
> This is nonsense, yes there is water vapor produced by burning propane
> BUT it is not enough to raise the humidity any higher than a usual
> summer day in the southern US. Perhaps even less.
You've never seen anything cold (glass, can, bottle) sweat on a typical
summer day? Hell, it doesn't even have to be cold.
Humid air + cold surfaces = condensation.
I've seen it in my own shop. While working at the propane retailer I was
asked what could be done about it by people having problems, notably
their tools getting wet.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
Got rid of my kerosene and unvented wall heaters which I have been using for
years and installed a 45K btu propane fired Modine hot dawg, It works like a
charm and keeps my shop nice and comfortable along with no odors from the
other heaters. Cost was approx $500 for everything less cost for a propane
fill-up. Well worth the cost as far as I am concerned.
Mike
"Tony DiBratto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Looking for a heater for my garage workshop. Came across the
> www.heatershop.com site. They have a wall mounted natural gas heater
which
> is ventless and claims to be suitable for dusty workshops. Just wondering
> if anyone has any experiences with this heater good or bad.
>
> Thx.
>
>
Have you looked into the Modine Hot Dawg? Here is the web site
http://hot-dawg.modine.com/
Have seen them reveiwed in one of the magazines (can't remember wich one),
they got a great review.
Jim
"Tony DiBratto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Looking for a heater for my garage workshop. Came across the
> www.heatershop.com site. They have a wall mounted natural gas heater
which
> is ventless and claims to be suitable for dusty workshops. Just wondering
> if anyone has any experiences with this heater good or bad.
>
> Thx.
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>BRuce wrote:
>
>> This is nonsense, yes there is water vapor produced by burning propane
>> BUT it is not enough to raise the humidity any higher than a usual
>> summer day in the southern US. Perhaps even less.
>
>Having been to Atlanta in August I'd say you're correct. About 85% to 100%
>humidity at 75 degrees, dropping to about 55% - 60% at 100 degrees.
>
>Does anybody know what that would equate to when the temperature is
>dropped to say 40 degrees?
The amount of water in the air, giving relative humidity of 88% at 75 degree F,
*IF* you could keep it all in the air at 40F, it would be a relative humidity
of THREE HUNDRED FOURTEEN percent. *snort*
A relative humidity of 28.1% at 75 deg F, when cooled to 40 deg F gives a
relative humidity of 100%.
21% humidity at 75 deg F will give 100% humidity at freezing.
15% humidity at 75 deg F will give 100% humidity at about 25 deg F.
BRuce said
> don't have this one but it will pull the dust into the bottom and "burn
> it off" just like the ones you can get at the borg. I have an infrared
> or catalyst type and I like it (yes, it still "burns off" the dust).
> there are others that feel that your shop will blow up if you use these
> and only recommend a sealed burner unit, $$$.
>
I'd be more concerned about vapors from finishing products. Turning the
heater off while you're spraying or the can is open should mitigate any
danger from that.
Yes, sawdust in the air can explode when exposed to open flame, but it
has to be in a rather narrow range of concentration. 20% comes to mind,
but I may me misremembering.
"Tony DiBratto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Looking for a heater for my garage workshop. Came across the
> www.heatershop.com site. They have a wall mounted natural gas heater
which
> is ventless and claims to be suitable for dusty workshops. Just wondering
> if anyone has any experiences with this heater good or bad.
>
> Thx.
>
>
Ventless is a poor idea for anywhere. The moisture produced from burning gas
will raise the humidity of your shop greatly.
Go with a vented unit heater, Reznor, Modine, plus others out there are much
better.
Greg
Yes, fog or rain!
--
Erik "Grumpa" Ahrens
Apprentice Termite
I'd much rather be hammered than nailed 8~)
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> BRuce wrote:
>
> > This is nonsense, yes there is water vapor produced by burning propane
> > BUT it is not enough to raise the humidity any higher than a usual
> > summer day in the southern US. Perhaps even less.
>
> Having been to Atlanta in August I'd say you're correct. About 85% to 100%
> humidity at 75 degrees, dropping to about 55% - 60% at 100 degrees.
>
> Does anybody know what that would equate to when the temperature is dropped to
say
> 40 degrees?
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
>
>
<BRuce> wrote in message news:1070050757.934760@sj-nntpcache-5...
> This is nonsense, yes there is water vapor produced by burning propane
> BUT it is not enough to raise the humidity any higher than a usual
> summer day in the southern US. Perhaps even less.
>
> I have used mine for 2 full seasons, (closed shop, no windows, 13 x 27)
> this will be the third season and there isn't anymore dampness in the
> air than at any other time. My tools don't rust any faster in the
> winter than at any other time.
>
> if you subject your shop to rapid temperature swings you will get more
> rust from that than any propane heater.
>
> BRuce
Well, others here have stated having moisture problems with unvented
heaters.
A second reason I would not have an unvented heater is you are exhausting
the burner right into you working/living area. You are also slowly depleting
the oxygen that is being used for combustion.
It is so easy in the majority of the situations to install a vented heater
that a non-vented unit makes little sense.
Greg
I believe that this is another of the religious wars. There are no
right answers just opinions. I have 3 unvented heaters and would buy
another in a minute. One in the "garden shed" to keep the plants warm
through the winter, one in the shop to keep me warm in the winter and
one in the new craft room above the shop to keep SWMBO warm in the
winter. None of the heaters manuals mention opening a window, there is
no window in the shop and one window in the craft room.
I do have unvented gas logs in the house, the manual does recommend
either opening a window a small amount of leaving the flue open
slightly, and I do leave the flue open about 1/3. The CO2 monitor has
never registered anything but 0.0
FACT: I don't have a problem with air quality, I don't have a rust
problem. those are things I can prove by the past 2 seasons.
OPINION: I don't have a dust explosion problem and I don't have a
solvent fume explosion problem. Both due to the small volume of dust
and the type of finishing I do.
BRuce
Charlie Self wrote:
> Greg O writes:
>
>
>>the burner right into you working/living area. You are also slowly depleting
>>the oxygen that is being used for combustion.
>
>
> Not so. There is an O2 depletion sensor on the unit, and it shuts down if that
> happens.
>
>
>>It is so easy in the majority of the situations to install a vented heater
>>that a non-vented unit makes little sense.
>
>
> What does the vented cost? You can get a 25,000 Btu unvented for under $150,
> IIRC. Installation costs maybe $30 more.
>
> Charlie Self
>
> "Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the
> pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
---
BRuce
yep, to much CO2 to remember that the monitor is for CO. With the cost
of the monitor, I would think that it should read read at least 0.00 :)
Silvan wrote:
> BRuce <BRuce> wrote:
>
>
>>slightly, and I do leave the flue open about 1/3. The CO2 monitor has
>>never registered anything but 0.0
>
>
> CO more likely. Carbon monoxide, not carbon dioxide. Mine hasn't either,
> incidentally. I'm beginning to wonder if the damn thing even works. Maybe
> these carbon monoxide detectors are just a circuit to make 0.0 appear on
> the LED display. :)
>
--
---
BRuce
Greg O writes:
>the burner right into you working/living area. You are also slowly depleting
>the oxygen that is being used for combustion.
Not so. There is an O2 depletion sensor on the unit, and it shuts down if that
happens.
>It is so easy in the majority of the situations to install a vented heater
>that a non-vented unit makes little sense.
What does the vented cost? You can get a 25,000 Btu unvented for under $150,
IIRC. Installation costs maybe $30 more.
Charlie Self
"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the
pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
BRuce <BRuce> wrote:
> slightly, and I do leave the flue open about 1/3. The CO2 monitor has
> never registered anything but 0.0
CO more likely. Carbon monoxide, not carbon dioxide. Mine hasn't either,
incidentally. I'm beginning to wonder if the damn thing even works. Maybe
these carbon monoxide detectors are just a circuit to make 0.0 appear on
the LED display. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
BRuce <BRuce> wrote:
> yep, to much CO2 to remember that the monitor is for CO. With the cost
> of the monitor, I would think that it should read read at least 0.00 :)
Yeah, seriously. Maybe 00.00 even.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Charlie Self wrote:
> Greg O writes:
>
>>the burner right into you working/living area. You are also slowly
>>depleting the oxygen that is being used for combustion.
>
> Not so. There is an O2 depletion sensor on the unit, and it shuts down if
> that happens.
Well, it's sort of so. It doesn't have to deplete enough oxygen to trip the
sensor to make the air "funky."
Mine is propane, but I'd be surprised if natural gas is any better. I run
my un-vented propane heater out here in the den to take the chill off in
the morning, but I can't tolerate leaving it going all the time.
Even just running the pilot for a few hours does something nebulous and
intangible to the quality of the room that causes it to have a bad vibe.
It just doesn't "feel" right. Too little oxygen, too much CO, too much
humidity, byproducts from the fart-smelling stuff they put in the gas...
Damfino. It doesn't trip the CO sensor, but the air just doesn't feel
right.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> What does the vented cost? You can get a 25,000 Btu unvented for under
$150,
> IIRC. Installation costs maybe $30 more.
>
>
In my opinion, you can do it right or you can do it cheap, you can't have
both!
I am a heating and AC tech, I would not put an unvented heater anywhere! You
are spewing exhaust back into your working area! I would bet the owners
manual for the heater requires the operator to keep a window or door cracked
for fresh air. Do it right, put in a Reznor or a Modine Hot Dawg. You would
not install a gas furnace in your house and run the exhaust into your living
room, would you?
You can build nice cabinets with a $199 table saw too, why would anyone buy
a Unisaw?
Greg
thanks Charlie, didn't know they had been in use that long. One more
fact for the file.
BRuce
Charlie Self wrote:
> Greg O writes:
>
>
>>In my opinion, you can do it right or you can do it cheap, you can't have
>>both!
>>I am a heating and AC tech, I would not put an unvented heater anywhere! You
>>are spewing exhaust back into your working area! I would bet the owners
>>manual for the heater requires the operator to keep a window or door cracked
>>for fresh air.
>
>
> I've never seen one that does. These things have been in use in Yurp for a
> couple decades with few problems. They've been in use here about 5 years.
>
> Some people can't afford the top of the line stuff, just as your later analogy,
> the $199 saw versus the Unisaw, shows. Many people can't afford a Unisaw, many
> more can afford the $199 saw (and the steps upward).
>
>
>>ou would
>>not install a gas furnace in your house and run the exhaust into your living
>>room, would you?
>
>
> No. And you're not doing that with these units, either. Check them out before
> you jump all over people for using them. They are not constructed like the
> catalytic heaters or salamanders. Burn efficiency, IIRC, is in the 99.8% or so
> range. They are not recommended for use in small rooms, generally, but there's
> enough air exchange in rooms over about 10x10 to allow their use.
>
> Unvented gas heaters are not ideal solutions, but they are not as bad as you
> make out.
>
> Charlie Self
>
> "Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the
> pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
---
BRuce
yep, I leave mine all the way down and it stays about 50. When I go out
to work in the shop, I crank it up to about 65, that's warm enough for
me. Even if I could run it down lower, I would not due to the
condensation problem that can arise when rapidly changing temps and
metal tools.
I'm in central NC, and use less than 300 gallons of propane a year (have
to pay the rental fee on the tank because I don't use more!). that
covers the "garden shed" and the shop. the garden shed probably uses
more than half of that because of the large window area.
BRuce
Bob G wrote:
> Another question that just popped into my head while reading these posts on
> shop heating...
>
> My sons installed a natural gas furnace ( converted to propane) and a
> central a/c unit in my shop the summer before last and this summer I had
> the a/c unit set at 80 or so all summer long 24/7
>
> I could cool the place off when I really needed to...and the Electric bill
> really did not suffer ...
>
> NOW that winter is here what do I do....?
>
> Last winter I had it turned off ... when I went out I fired up the furnace
> and also a 30,000
> btu Kero heater to take off the chill (Kero ran for 20 or so minutes) then
> the furnace ran by itself...
>
> Shop is insulated, but not really insulated well, I was thinking of leaving
> the furnace on and set the thermostat to
> something in the low 50s' or maybe even high 40s'
>
> Cost is a factor but I sure did not mind the cost of the A/C... Figure 20
> degree difference in Temp from Max or Min outside Temp...
>
> How do you guyts do this.... I am retired and I do use the shop almost
> daily...
>
> Bob Griffiths
>
>
--
---
BRuce
Greg O writes:
>In my opinion, you can do it right or you can do it cheap, you can't have
>both!
>I am a heating and AC tech, I would not put an unvented heater anywhere! You
>are spewing exhaust back into your working area! I would bet the owners
>manual for the heater requires the operator to keep a window or door cracked
>for fresh air.
I've never seen one that does. These things have been in use in Yurp for a
couple decades with few problems. They've been in use here about 5 years.
Some people can't afford the top of the line stuff, just as your later analogy,
the $199 saw versus the Unisaw, shows. Many people can't afford a Unisaw, many
more can afford the $199 saw (and the steps upward).
>ou would
>not install a gas furnace in your house and run the exhaust into your living
>room, would you?
No. And you're not doing that with these units, either. Check them out before
you jump all over people for using them. They are not constructed like the
catalytic heaters or salamanders. Burn efficiency, IIRC, is in the 99.8% or so
range. They are not recommended for use in small rooms, generally, but there's
enough air exchange in rooms over about 10x10 to allow their use.
Unvented gas heaters are not ideal solutions, but they are not as bad as you
make out.
Charlie Self
"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the
pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
Thanks guys.... The Tank has been delivered & is full......now I have to
trench & run a gas line down to the shop..(200 foot)....until then I am
swapping out 100 Pound tanks of propane like I did last year...
$1.90 a gallon with the large tank...$2.40 a gal with the
100 pound tanks... Price was not the big deal last year BUT with 3 foot of
snow..on the ground I could not swap the 100 pound tanks, they were frozen
in place...
.Once everything is up and running I think I will just set the Thermostat
at 50 or so and leave it that way...
Bob Griffiths
"Bob G" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:bz1yb.187>
>
> Shop is insulated, but not really insulated well, I was thinking of
leaving
> the furnace on and set the thermostat to
> something in the low 50s' or maybe even high 40s'
>
> Bob Griffiths
It would keep some heat in the heavy cast iron. Overall, it would have to
improve things like material dimensions, condensation control, drying of
adhesive and finishes, not to mention your comfort.
Find out what the cost per 1000 Btu is for you propane and you can figure
the cost of running the furnace for an hour. Of course the difficult part
is to know how many hours the furnace will run over night. Propane has
91,000 Btu per gallon. About three hours of run time per gallon.
You may also want to look at improving the insulation.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Another question that just popped into my head while reading these posts on
shop heating...
My sons installed a natural gas furnace ( converted to propane) and a
central a/c unit in my shop the summer before last and this summer I had
the a/c unit set at 80 or so all summer long 24/7
I could cool the place off when I really needed to...and the Electric bill
really did not suffer ...
NOW that winter is here what do I do....?
Last winter I had it turned off ... when I went out I fired up the furnace
and also a 30,000
btu Kero heater to take off the chill (Kero ran for 20 or so minutes) then
the furnace ran by itself...
Shop is insulated, but not really insulated well, I was thinking of leaving
the furnace on and set the thermostat to
something in the low 50s' or maybe even high 40s'
Cost is a factor but I sure did not mind the cost of the A/C... Figure 20
degree difference in Temp from Max or Min outside Temp...
How do you guyts do this.... I am retired and I do use the shop almost
daily...
Bob Griffiths
Bob G asks:
>
> NOW that winter is here what do I do....?
>
>Last winter I had it turned off ... when I went out I fired up the furnace
>and also a 30,000
>btu Kero heater to take off the chill (Kero ran for 20 or so minutes) then
>the furnace ran by itself...
>
>Shop is insulated, but not really insulated well, I was thinking of leaving
>the furnace on and set the thermostat to
>something in the low 50s' or maybe even high 40s'
>
>Cost is a factor but I sure did not mind the cost of the A/C... Figure 20
>degree difference in Temp from Max or Min outside Temp...
>
>How do you guyts do this.... I am retired and I do use the shop almost
>daily...
I forget where you're located, Bob, but what I do is keep the shop just warm
enough to prevent glue and finish deterioration from cold...above freezing, but
far from warm, no more than 50 or so. About as low as my cheap thermostat will
go and not shut things off. Actually, this winter it's off all the way (I'm not
back yet), and the garage here has only a catalytic propane heater that won't
quite do all I would like, but is a little better than nothing. This garage is
so leaky I don't even open the door. Forget the windows: they were shut in '15
and probably haven't moved since...I moved something in front of the back wall
one day, and one of the old iron weights came tumbling out at me.
Shops don't need to be really warm (never mind, Bobby W. You're a special case,
one of two people I know who prefer it in the 80s when they work, summer and
winter). I like mine at 55-60, unless I'm gluing or finishing. Helps soothe the
cheapskate in me (nothing like being at least a major part Scot), but also, I
tend to sweat very easily, so it reduces the dripping on projects and tools.
Charlie Self
"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the
pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
Ok Charlie, what part is Scottish? And the Scottish KNOW that they are
Scottish- SCOTCH is a damn drink. But I hear over and over how "they"
are Scotch. Glad you said Scot.
On 29 Nov 2003 14:08:15 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:
>Bob G asks:
>
>>
>> NOW that winter is here what do I do....?
>>
>>Last winter I had it turned off ... when I went out I fired up the furnace
>>and also a 30,000
>>btu Kero heater to take off the chill (Kero ran for 20 or so minutes) then
>>the furnace ran by itself...
>>
>>Shop is insulated, but not really insulated well, I was thinking of leaving
>>the furnace on and set the thermostat to
>>something in the low 50s' or maybe even high 40s'
>>
>>Cost is a factor but I sure did not mind the cost of the A/C... Figure 20
>>degree difference in Temp from Max or Min outside Temp...
>>
>>How do you guyts do this.... I am retired and I do use the shop almost
>>daily...
>
>I forget where you're located, Bob, but what I do is keep the shop just warm
>enough to prevent glue and finish deterioration from cold...above freezing, but
>far from warm, no more than 50 or so. About as low as my cheap thermostat will
>go and not shut things off. Actually, this winter it's off all the way (I'm not
>back yet), and the garage here has only a catalytic propane heater that won't
>quite do all I would like, but is a little better than nothing. This garage is
>so leaky I don't even open the door. Forget the windows: they were shut in '15
>and probably haven't moved since...I moved something in front of the back wall
>one day, and one of the old iron weights came tumbling out at me.
>
>Shops don't need to be really warm (never mind, Bobby W. You're a special case,
>one of two people I know who prefer it in the 80s when they work, summer and
>winter). I like mine at 55-60, unless I'm gluing or finishing. Helps soothe the
>cheapskate in me (nothing like being at least a major part Scot), but also, I
>tend to sweat very easily, so it reduces the dripping on projects and tools.
>
>Charlie Self
>
>"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the
>pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
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Charlie Self wrote:
> summer and winter). I like mine at 55-60, unless I'm gluing or finishing.
> Helps soothe the cheapskate in me (nothing like being at least a major
> part Scot), but also, I tend to sweat very easily, so it reduces the
> dripping on projects and tools.
I'm kind of liking these 50 days, truth be told. When I'm really slinging
my planes around, I get down to a T-shirt, but I usually don't sweat on
anything.
On the days when it has come up more toward 70, I've had sweat dripping off
my brow and onto my work. I even have a rust spot on one of my newly-tuned
planes from a drop of errant sweat that got ignored.
All this has me thinking I _reallY_ need to think about A/C this summer. If
I'm pissing away money to heat this horribly drafty thing, maybe I can piss
away more money to reduce the heat. That fan sure didn't do much on those
90+ degree days last summer where the interior of that thing got up to 120.
Dunno though, I like leaving the doors open. More light that way, and I can
see what's going on outside. I'd probably leave'em open in winter too,
except that while T11 and tubafores are bad insulation, they're better than
an 8' x 8' hole at keeping the heat in. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> >ou would
> >not install a gas furnace in your house and run the exhaust into your
living
> >room, would you?
>
> No. And you're not doing that with these units, either. Check them out
before
> you jump all over people for using them. They are not constructed like the
> catalytic heaters or salamanders. Burn efficiency, IIRC, is in the 99.8%
or so
> range. They are not recommended for use in small rooms, generally, but
there's
> enough air exchange in rooms over about 10x10 to allow their use.
>
>
Charlie, did you missd the part where I said I did HVAC work for a living? I
have checked them out, my opinion stands! Any heater, that right in the
instructions requires an open window or door for fresh air is not going to
be recomended by me, or anyone that I know that does this for a living
either!
We had a customer that wanted one installed. We would not do it, headed him
in the direction of a vented heater.
You can find vented heaters that cost within a few dollars of the unvented
heaters, very simular units, they just have a air intake, and exhaust that
goes through the wall.
Greg
"Bob G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> >
> How do you guyts do this.... I am retired and I do use the shop almost
> daily...
>
> Bob Griffiths
>
>
If you are out there daily I would let it run. Turn the stat down to 45-50
degrees when you leave. My heat runs at 45 degrees unless I plan on beijng
out here the next day. Then I leave it at 65, but then my shop is fairly
tight, so it is pretty easy to heat.
I have AC in my shop too. You gatta love it when the temps and humidity
start creeping up to 100!
Greg
non vented is great, unless you have a perfectly sealed structure where the
unit resides.
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <BRuce> wrote in message news:1070050757.934760@sj-nntpcache-5...
> > This is nonsense, yes there is water vapor produced by burning propane
> > BUT it is not enough to raise the humidity any higher than a usual
> > summer day in the southern US. Perhaps even less.
> >
> > I have used mine for 2 full seasons, (closed shop, no windows, 13 x 27)
> > this will be the third season and there isn't anymore dampness in the
> > air than at any other time. My tools don't rust any faster in the
> > winter than at any other time.
> >
> > if you subject your shop to rapid temperature swings you will get more
> > rust from that than any propane heater.
> >
> > BRuce
>
> Well, others here have stated having moisture problems with unvented
> heaters.
> A second reason I would not have an unvented heater is you are exhausting
> the burner right into you working/living area. You are also slowly
depleting
> the oxygen that is being used for combustion.
> It is so easy in the majority of the situations to install a vented heater
> that a non-vented unit makes little sense.
> Greg
>
>