I need to remove a 1mm deep by 50mm wide recess in some 5mm marine ply so
that I can put a patterned inlay into the surface.
What's the best way to do this?
I've tried scoring the surface with a knife and then routing the recess but
I've ended up with some fairly rough edges - and some perfect ones as well.
The combined wisdom of this group would be appreciated.
--
www.bribieisland4x4hire.com
VW Kombi Camper Buy Backs
Landcruiser Troopy - Toyota Hilux Crew Cab
Mitsubishi Pajero - Landrover V8 Swag Camper
On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 08:42:05 -0700, Bridger <[email protected]> brought
forth from the murky depths:
>On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 15:25:37 GMT, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>>Can you inlay the stringer before foaming and glassing
>>it, or is this a blank, complete with stringer/foam?
>>If not, building a jig (no easy feat on a curved and
>>bowed surface) and using the router may be your best
>>bet. I so seldom use a router that I have to practice
>>on several pieces (to get used to how it chews wood)
>>prior to using it on my project.>
>
>this might be a good application for a scratch stock
Only if he didn't buy a pre-stringered foam blank.
==========================================================
CAUTION: Do NOT look directly into laser with remaining eyeball!
==========================================================
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
Roger Martin wrote:
>
> I need to remove a 1mm deep by 50mm wide recess in some 5mm marine ply so
> that I can put a patterned inlay into the surface.
>
> What's the best way to do this?
>
> I've tried scoring the surface with a knife and then routing the recess but
> I've ended up with some fairly rough edges - and some perfect ones as well.
>
> The combined wisdom of this group would be appreciated.
>
More info please.
How far from the edges will the inlay begin?
If you're within 5 inches of the edges you can use a wheeled
marking gauge to deeply scribe the inside and outside edges
of the cut. A single beveled marking wheel device like the
Tite-Mark, with the mortise cutting wheels, will allow you to
cut the inside and outside lines at once AND with the bevel
on the cut nice and square on the non-waste side
+----------+ +-----------+ +-------
| |/ \|
| + +
|
|
+-----------------------------------
Here's a link about the Tite-Mark with a couple of links
to places you can buy this great tool
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/MTprimer10b.html
How long are the longest and shortest pieces going to be?
If the inlays are only a foot or two long then you could
use a straight edge and a single bevel marking knive to
inscribe the lines. Scribe tghe lines in multiple light
cuts rather than one deep cut. A dado plane could then be
used to remove the waste between the lines
50 mm is a little under 2 inches (1.97 inches).
1 mm (0.039") is a bit of 1/32 (0.032") of an inch
What handtools do you have that can be used and are you
good with them?
Do you own a plunge router with precision plunge depth
setting capabilities?
Do you have a precision edge fence for the plunge router
The Micro-Fence is a very precise fence system that is
great for inlaying. Here's a link for it.
http://www.microfence.com/
What size router bit were you using in your attempts
so far Might want to go with a smaller diameter bit
first then a larger one to hog out the rest of the
waste.
More info please.
charlie b
On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 06:59:29 +1000, "Roger Martin"
<[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>Its a hollow board, all wood - well almost - apart from the carbon fibre
>stringer and the glass fibre it will have encapsulating it in a few weeks.
Wow, quite unusual. So, where are you putting the inlay?!?
In any case, jiggin' it is the way to go with a router.
Do you have tall shaping stands? If so, build it up there
so the router is closer to your (goggled) eyes so you can
guide it.
.-.
Life is short. Eat dessert first!
---
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
On Sun, 29 Feb 2004 08:25:28 +1000, "Roger Martin"
<[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>The 50mm inlay will run down the centreline of the board on the deck. I've
>got some 6mm wide inlay as well which I will run around the deck perimeter.
Is the stringer entirely covered, and are you laying this
into the hull boards? What's the shape of the perimeter?
Standard surfboard curves? I grew up in SoCal and had friends
who glassed boards. I couldn't stand the smell of the curing
chemicals or the dust from sanding, so I pretty much stayed
away. I got to watch the designs from pencil and paper sketch
to fully-glassed boards, which was fun. I gave up surfing the
same year, got into skimboarding, and never looked back.
>The hull is glued onto the frame (did that yesterday) so its actually
>starting to look something like a longboard. My biggest problem has been a
Pictures, man. We need pictures! Got a digicam and site?
>lack of clamps (I've got about 30 and need about 100) - I made up some cross
>clamps using 50x50 and some 1/4" threaded rod which pulls everything up nice
>and square.
Yeah, maybe a few of us have experienced a clamp shortage
once or twice in our wooddorkin' lives.
>Its been an interesting project, it takes longer to work out how to clamp,
>make mould formers for the nose and tail than the actual building. The rails
>are made from ply and balsa to bend around the nose and tail.
Some clamping is more easily done in bulk than singularly.
Got a looooong, narrow vacuum bag? Suck her together.
I do want to see pics of that thing. The only board I ever had
was a 10'4" Gordon & Smith. Viva Longboards!
.-.
Life is short. Eat dessert first!
---
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Roger Martin wrote:
> >
> > I need to remove a 1mm deep by 50mm wide recess in some 5mm marine ply
so
> > that I can put a patterned inlay into the surface.
> >
> > What's the best way to do this?
> >
> > I've tried scoring the surface with a knife and then routing the recess
but
> > I've ended up with some fairly rough edges - and some perfect ones as
well.
> >
> > The combined wisdom of this group would be appreciated.
> >
>
>
> More info please.
>
> How far from the edges will the inlay begin?
>
The inlay is along the centre line of a surfboard.
> If you're within 5 inches of the edges you can use a wheeled
> marking gauge to deeply scribe the inside and outside edges
> of the cut. A single beveled marking wheel device like the
> Tite-Mark, with the mortise cutting wheels, will allow you to
> cut the inside and outside lines at once AND with the bevel
> on the cut nice and square on the non-waste side
>
> +----------+ +-----------+ +-------
> | |/ \|
> | + +
> |
> |
> +-----------------------------------
>
> Here's a link about the Tite-Mark with a couple of links
> to places you can buy this great tool
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/MTprimer10b.html
>
>
> How long are the longest and shortest pieces going to be?
> If the inlays are only a foot or two long then you could
> use a straight edge and a single bevel marking knive to
> inscribe the lines. Scribe tghe lines in multiple light
> cuts rather than one deep cut. A dado plane could then be
> used to remove the waste between the lines
>
The inlays will be about 3.5 metres long.
> 50 mm is a little under 2 inches (1.97 inches).
> 1 mm (0.039") is a bit of 1/32 (0.032") of an inch
>
> What handtools do you have that can be used and are you
> good with them?
>
> Do you own a plunge router with precision plunge depth
> setting capabilities?
>
Yes, I've got a plung router, I used 12mm bit previously, I'll try a smaller
diameter next test cut.
> Do you have a precision edge fence for the plunge router
> The Micro-Fence is a very precise fence system that is
> great for inlaying. Here's a link for it.
>
> http://www.microfence.com/
>
> What size router bit were you using in your attempts
> so far Might want to go with a smaller diameter bit
> first then a larger one to hog out the rest of the
> waste.
>
> More info please.
>
> charlie b
Thanks for the ideas.
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 06:23:29 +1000, "Roger Martin"
> <[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>
> >
> >"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >> How far from the edges will the inlay begin?
> >
> >The inlay is along the centre line of a surfboard.
>
> >The inlays will be about 3.5 metres long.
>
> Can you inlay the stringer before foaming and glassing
> it, or is this a blank, complete with stringer/foam?
> If not, building a jig (no easy feat on a curved and
> bowed surface) and using the router may be your best
> bet. I so seldom use a router that I have to practice
> on several pieces (to get used to how it chews wood)
> prior to using it on my project.
>
Its a hollow board, all wood - well almost - apart from the carbon fibre
stringer and the glass fibre it will have encapsulating it in a few weeks.
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 06:59:29 +1000, "Roger Martin"
> <[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>
> >Its a hollow board, all wood - well almost - apart from the carbon fibre
> >stringer and the glass fibre it will have encapsulating it in a few
weeks.
>
> Wow, quite unusual. So, where are you putting the inlay?!?
> In any case, jiggin' it is the way to go with a router.
> Do you have tall shaping stands? If so, build it up there
> so the router is closer to your (goggled) eyes so you can
> guide it.
>
The 50mm inlay will run down the centreline of the board on the deck. I've
got some 6mm wide inlay as well which I will run around the deck perimeter.
The hull is glued onto the frame (did that yesterday) so its actually
starting to look something like a longboard. My biggest problem has been a
lack of clamps (I've got about 30 and need about 100) - I made up some cross
clamps using 50x50 and some 1/4" threaded rod which pulls everything up nice
and square.
Its been an interesting project, it takes longer to work out how to clamp,
make mould formers for the nose and tail than the actual building. The rails
are made from ply and balsa to bend around the nose and tail.
--
www.bribieisland4x4hire.com
VW Kombi Camper Buy Backs
Landcruiser Troopy - Toyota Hilux Crew Cab
Mitsubishi Pajero - Landrover V8 Swag Camper
Is the piece you want to put this grove in sized where you could do
with a couple passes with a DADO on the tablesaw??? Or use a good
sawblade to make the cuts at the edges of the dada, then use the
router to remove the material in the middle??
John
On Wed, 25 Feb 2004 18:13:35 +1000, "Roger Martin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to remove a 1mm deep by 50mm wide recess in some 5mm marine ply so
>that I can put a patterned inlay into the surface.
>
>What's the best way to do this?
>
>I've tried scoring the surface with a knife and then routing the recess but
>I've ended up with some fairly rough edges - and some perfect ones as well.
>
>The combined wisdom of this group would be appreciated.
On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 15:25:37 GMT, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 06:23:29 +1000, "Roger Martin"
><[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>
>>
>>"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>>> How far from the edges will the inlay begin?
>>
>>The inlay is along the centre line of a surfboard.
>
>>The inlays will be about 3.5 metres long.
>
>Can you inlay the stringer before foaming and glassing
>it, or is this a blank, complete with stringer/foam?
>If not, building a jig (no easy feat on a curved and
>bowed surface) and using the router may be your best
>bet. I so seldom use a router that I have to practice
>on several pieces (to get used to how it chews wood)
>prior to using it on my project.
>
this might be a good application for a scratch stock
On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 06:23:29 +1000, "Roger Martin"
<[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>
>"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> How far from the edges will the inlay begin?
>
>The inlay is along the centre line of a surfboard.
>The inlays will be about 3.5 metres long.
Can you inlay the stringer before foaming and glassing
it, or is this a blank, complete with stringer/foam?
If not, building a jig (no easy feat on a curved and
bowed surface) and using the router may be your best
bet. I so seldom use a router that I have to practice
on several pieces (to get used to how it chews wood)
prior to using it on my project.
==========================================================
CAUTION: Do NOT look directly into laser with remaining eyeball!
==========================================================
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design