needed

It does not look that hard to replicate. I made something simular for
an
adjustable finger jig for my table saw. I used part of a C-Clamp I
dismatelled (the shaft) and my brother inlaw drilled and tapped a piece
of
alluminum. its athought I spent maybe 10 bucks.. Beer included for
work...
:)

Right, guess I'll stop looking for "clamp world" and make it from
scratch. The
guy who would help me doesn't drink, smoke or chew betel leaves but he
likes wood scraps.

<"Really tight" isn't necessary - "properly aligned" _is_ necessary;
because the pocket hole screw's threads _should_ all be in the part
screwed "to" - this is controlled by setting the drill stop collar
correctly and using screws with the proper thread length. Clamping the
parts "firmly" is adequate.>

I checked all of this , but it seemed that the alignment results were
still
inconsistent. What I'm making is boxes about 12" X 18". I want the
tops
and bottoms to extend slightly beyond the sides. The only way I can do

this is to put a shim under the part that is being drilled into first
with very
firm clamping (not "tight", exactly, as you say) and I'm getting pretty

good results though not perfect. It seems to be the slight
variance in the final amount of torque that makes the difference,
because
even the shallowest angle is still an angle and will tend to shift the
pieces.



<You can buy Acme threaded rod stock>

This is good to know, but which elf presses the swivel pad onto the end
of the rod?
Maybe a machinist friend of mine has an acme tap. If they used the
thread on
1930s cars anywhere he probably does. Then I could buy cheap clamps,
cut away
the body and make my own plates.

<This might be the wood's way of telling you that it'd prefer to be
doweled and glued.>

I'd dovetail them together if my customer was willing to pay for it.
Maybe if the product really takes off and I can find or make a face
dovetail jig and buy a shopfull of clamps I'll go that route. Or
maybe there's some kind of mdf fastener that would work (the
cabinets are melamine)

<The cold elf holds the rod while the hot elf pops on the pad. :-)

up in the tree next to the one where they make the cookies, right?:-)

Dont know if these might suit your needs but LeeValley has some things that
might be adaptable check out the links:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43838,43845,31138&p=31138

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=31147&cat=1,41637

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=31130&cat=1,41637

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43455&p=52800

Othere sites:

http://www.fine-tools.com/spindel.htm

http://www.adjustableclamp.com/sp-6700.htm

RangerPaul
--
Email replies to [email protected] remove the "nospam_"
before you reply.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dream-designs


"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I wish I could find a clamp part as illustrated on my website at:
> www.edswoods.com/appendix.html
> The metal block would fit into a box jig for some enclosures I'm making
> with a Kraig pocket
> hole jig. The screw part should be about 1/2" X 8". The secret to
> using the pocket hole device seems to be in keeping everything clamped
> in place really tight.
>

[email protected] (in
[email protected]) said:

| I wish I could find a clamp part as illustrated on my website at:
| www.edswoods.com/appendix.html

As shown in your drawing, you'd need a hole in your box jig at least
as large as the diameter of the clamp handle. Given that, I think the
attachment holes appear to be a tad too close to the threaded hole.

| The metal block would fit into a box jig for some enclosures I'm
| making with a Kraig pocket
| hole jig. The screw part should be about 1/2" X 8". The secret to
| using the pocket hole device seems to be in keeping everything
| clamped in place really tight.

"Really tight" isn't necessary - "properly aligned" _is_ necessary;
because the pocket hole screw's threads _should_ all be in the part
screwed "to" - this is controlled by setting the drill stop collar
correctly and using screws with the proper thread length. Clamping the
parts "firmly" is adequate.

BTW, the name of the company is "Kreg" - and the founder's first name
is "Craig".

You can buy Acme threaded rod stock and Acme taps from people like
Enco (www.use-enco.com). I'll warn that the taps are expensive.
Regular screw threads probably won't hold up as well in prolonged use.

Lee Valley sells a veneer press clamp that's similar; and you can see
a set in use at www.iedu.com/DeSoto/PT_Sign.html - the veneer clamps
are pressed into a 1" hole and the pad is removable.

I have photos of a clamp design I made for drawers and boxes at
www.iedu.com/DeSoto/drawer_clamp.html - depending on your project,
this approach might be useful.

Two of my favorite face frame clamps are the cast aluminum clamps from
Woodstock International (Grizzly). I noted in the most recent McFeelys
catalog that they're now offering linkage pins for these clamps that
permit use with stock up to 1-3/4 inches think.

Finally, and at the risk of being horribly obvious, I'd like to
suggest a Google image search for "face frame clamp" (without the
quotation marks) - it'll provide a visual presentation of most of the
standard products and and a lot of clamping techniques.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

It does not look that hard to replicate. I made something simular for an
adjustable finger jig for my table saw. I used part of a C-Clamp I
dismatelled (the shaft) and my brother inlaw drilled and tapped a piece of
alluminum. its athought I spent maybe 10 bucks.. Beer included for work...
:)

Al

"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I wish I could find a clamp part as illustrated on my website at:
> www.edswoods.com/appendix.html
> The metal block would fit into a box jig for some enclosures I'm making
> with a Kraig pocket
> hole jig. The screw part should be about 1/2" X 8". The secret to
> using the pocket hole device seems to be in keeping everything clamped
> in place really tight.
>

[email protected] (in
[email protected]) said:

| <"Really tight" isn't necessary - "properly aligned" _is_ necessary;
| because the pocket hole screw's threads _should_ all be in the part
| screwed "to" - this is controlled by setting the drill stop collar
| correctly and using screws with the proper thread length. Clamping
| the parts "firmly" is adequate.>
|
| I checked all of this , but it seemed that the alignment results
| were still
| inconsistent. What I'm making is boxes about 12" X 18". I want the
| tops
| and bottoms to extend slightly beyond the sides. The only way I
| can do
|
| this is to put a shim under the part that is being drilled into
| first with very
| firm clamping (not "tight", exactly, as you say) and I'm getting
| pretty
|
| good results though not perfect. It seems to be the slight
| variance in the final amount of torque that makes the difference,
| because
| even the shallowest angle is still an angle and will tend to shift
| the pieces.

This might be the wood's way of telling you that it'd prefer to be
doweled and glued.

| <You can buy Acme threaded rod stock>
|
| This is good to know, but which elf presses the swivel pad onto the
| end of the rod?

The cold elf holds the rod while the hot elf pops on the pad. :-)

| Maybe a machinist friend of mine has an acme tap. If they used the
| thread on
| 1930s cars anywhere he probably does. Then I could buy cheap clamps,
| cut away
| the body and make my own plates.

I dunno - perhaps. I think Acme threads have been mostly reserved for
machine tool adjustments and clamping devices. My 3/8" Acme tap set me
back about $65 (as compared to $4 for my most recent standard thread
tap). You might be able to find a better deal on eBay...

I disassembled a HF 3/4" pipe clamp this morning. The crank handle
with threaded rod separates easily from the pad casting when a
retainer pin is popped out. If you can find a matching nut, then you
might be able to braze the nut on a (predrilled) mounting plate; and
you could probably make a swivel pad out of aluminum or even wood -
reattaching it to the rod with the same pin.

On the third hand, you could consider installing a Propel nut
(available from LV and other places) where the mounting plate would
go, and use a 1/4-20 allthread with a threaded knob and jam nut on one
end and a "make-do" wooden or plastic pad on the other. This is
probably the least expensive way to find out if your clamping strategy
will work the way you want it to.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

lol niether do

Al

"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It does not look that hard to replicate. I made something simular for
> an
> adjustable finger jig for my table saw. I used part of a C-Clamp I
> dismatelled (the shaft) and my brother inlaw drilled and tapped a piece
> of
> alluminum. its athought I spent maybe 10 bucks.. Beer included for
> work...
> :)
>
> Right, guess I'll stop looking for "clamp world" and make it from
> scratch. The
> guy who would help me doesn't drink, smoke or chew betel leaves but he
> likes wood scraps.
>