I just had my first occasion to make a set of glass doors using pocket hole
joinery to hold the frame pieces. They came out great. I bought some pocket
hole plugs but was surprised to see how much the were above the surface of
the frame (or as Norm would say -- "proud" of the surface). They stick up
about 1/8" Clearly I can sand them down but it will take a lot of sanding as
they are oak. Has anyone used these plugs and have you had the same
experience?
On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 22:06:45 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>They stick up
>about 1/8" Clearly I can sand them down but it will take a lot of sanding as
>they are oak.
Start with a plane, finish with sandpaper or a scraper. The plane
will knock them down in no time.
Barry
hit 'em with a flush cutting saw, then sand. Wouldn't you be bummed if
they made them too shallow! :)
dave
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I just had my first occasion to make a set of glass doors using pocket hole
> joinery to hold the frame pieces. They came out great. I bought some pocket
> hole plugs but was surprised to see how much the were above the surface of
> the frame (or as Norm would say -- "proud" of the surface). They stick up
> about 1/8" Clearly I can sand them down but it will take a lot of sanding as
> they are oak. Has anyone used these plugs and have you had the same
> experience?
>
>
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 22:52:57 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> >Only one problem - on an inside corner, you can't get the router in there
to
> >cut them. Maybe a laminate trimmer with an offset base?
>
> Or a flush cut saw? It's a DOWEL, not a 4x4! <G>
>
> Barry
Well, yeah, but the topic was router. With a flush cut saw, you have to
sand, quite a bit. If you use a router and sharp bit, and a chisel to take
off the last hair, you don't need to sand. Sanding sucks.
Jon
"David Chamberlain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A sharp chisel or a router takes them down quick. I put two feet on my
> router to straddle the plugs or dowels in a dowel joint, and cut them off
as
> slick as can be.
That really is a great tip. I hadn't thought of that but recall now, seeing
it in a book somewhere to cut dowels flush. I guess you could set the bit
proud of the surface by 1/64" or so.
Only one problem - on an inside corner, you can't get the router in there to
cut them. Maybe a laminate trimmer with an offset base?
Jon E
On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 22:52:57 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Only one problem - on an inside corner, you can't get the router in there to
>cut them. Maybe a laminate trimmer with an offset base?
Or a flush cut saw? It's a DOWEL, not a 4x4! <G>
Barry
Actually, they sand down pretty quickly. Cutting them off with a flush trim
saw after the glue dries, then sanding, is even quicker.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
> I just had my first occasion to make a set of glass doors using pocket
hole
> joinery to hold the frame pieces. They came out great. I bought some
pocket
> hole plugs but was surprised to see how much the were above the surface of
> the frame (or as Norm would say -- "proud" of the surface). They stick up
> about 1/8" Clearly I can sand them down but it will take a lot of sanding
as
> they are oak. Has anyone used these plugs and have you had the same
> experience?
>
>
A sharp chisel or a router takes them down quick. I put two feet on my
router to straddle the plugs or dowels in a dowel joint, and cut them off as
slick as can be.
--
dbchamber at hotmail spam dot com
Remove the spam to reach me
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." <[email protected]> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 22:06:45 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >They stick up
> >about 1/8" Clearly I can sand them down but it will take a lot of sanding
as
> >they are oak.
>
> Start with a plane, finish with sandpaper or a scraper. The plane
> will knock them down in no time.
>
> Barry
>
I usually do the trimming before I put the back on. Also, I make the
first hole about 2" from the edge so I do'nt have any trouble getting at the
plug.
If you have a little money and you want what looks like the easiest way to
trim:
http://www.hoffmann-usa.com/htm/lippingplaner/lippingplaner.htm
It is designed for doing solid wood edging but it should work well for
dowels and plugs.
--
dbchamber at hotmail spam dot com
Remove the spam to reach me
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> writes:
> They stick up about 1/8"
That depends on how deep you drill the hole, and the shape of the
screw head. They probably make them a little long in case you need to
drill the hole deeper.
Another option is to make your own - cut a 3/8 dowel off at 45
degrees, tap it in, and use a flush cutting saw to trim it (like you
would any other dowel plug).
Yep......
They sand down easy..
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just had my first occasion to make a set of glass doors using pocket
hole
> joinery to hold the frame pieces. They came out great. I bought some
pocket
> hole plugs but was surprised to see how much the were above the surface of
> the frame (or as Norm would say -- "proud" of the surface). They stick up
> about 1/8" Clearly I can sand them down but it will take a lot of sanding
as
> they are oak. Has anyone used these plugs and have you had the same
> experience?
>
>
>