Dave Balderstone wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Bill Braun
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Does this newsgroup have a FAQ?
>
>
> It's in the archives:
> <http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/search?group=rec.woodwor
> king&q=FAQ&qt_g=1&searchnow=Search+this+group>
>
>>Is this the place to talk about
>>restoring old wood tools?
>
>
> You bet.
Thank you, much obliged.
In article <[email protected]>, Bill Braun
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Does this newsgroup have a FAQ?
It's in the archives:
<http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/search?group=rec.woodwor
king&q=FAQ&qt_g=1&searchnow=Search+this+group>
> Is this the place to talk about
> restoring old wood tools?
You bet.
--
Life. Nature's way of keeping meat fresh. -- Dr. Who
In article <[email protected]>, Bill Braun
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Thank you, much obliged.
We'll take all the on-topic threads we can get, Bill.
;-)
--
The moral difference between a soldier and a civilian is that the soldier
accepts personal responsibility for the safety of the body politic of which he
is a member. The civilian does not. Robert A. Heinlein
I was just reading the home wiring portion of this FAQ, and came across
this item (If this has already been dealt with in the group, pardon my
reiteration):
Subject: Testing grounding conductors and grounding electrodes.
Snip...
Testing a grounding electrode is a somewhat different matter.
The codes aim for a dirt-to-electrode resistance of 25 ohms or
better. One moderately safe way is:
- turn off the main panel
- turn off all of the breakers
- disconnect the grounding electrode from the rest of
the system. (often just a bolt in the panel)
- connect a 5A fuse between the output of one 15A
breaker
and the grounding electrode. (use a 5A automotive
fuse
in a pigtail holder)
- turn on the main breaker and the single breaker
connected
to the 5A fuse.
- if the 5A fuse blows, your ground is good.
From my understanding of electronics, the 5 amp automotive fuse is
rated for 5amps Direct Current (DC). If you are attempting to use it
where a 5amp Alternating Current (AC) fuse is called for, the automotive
fuse will be wrongly rated.
Now, some of you may say that amps are amps, but in DC current you
are dealing with pure resistance. In AC current you have reactance,
which is not pure resistance as in DC. This is why you will see a
different size fuze element between 'equally' rated AC and DC fuzes.
In addition, fuzes are rated for temperature so you can have a slow
blow or quick blow fuze and should use the correct one for any
particular application, including testing.
Just my .02 cents...