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How do I tell if my wood is case hardened. I was reading baout it last
night. This rough cut white oak I have I moticed is cracking on the
ends in a few places. One small board has craks on one of the faces
too.
Is it possible to still use the wood or will it continue to split and
deform even after cutting and planing?
A splitter is a thin... thing behind the blade. A riving knife is a
type of splitter. It's a flat thing that's the same thickness as the
saw blade. It goes behind the blade so that if the kerf of the board
you're ripping tries to close up, it can't. The blade guards that come
with table saws have a splitter bult into the design. It's the flat
part that rides in the saw kerf and attaches to the stuff under the
table. Usually, the stock one has some sort of plastic guard on a
hinge on top of the splitter. The stock ones also usually have
kickback pawls which are little springed spike thingies that jam into
the wood if you get a kickback.
Here's one type of splitter:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=51151&cat=1,41080,41165
This is just a splitter, no blade guard or kickback pawls. It's also
not a riving knife.
brian
Hey, we all know what a spitter is. Its that thing attached to the blade
guard that's stored in an inaccessible corner of the shop.
"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A splitter is a thin... thing behind the blade. A riving knife is a
> type of splitter. It's a flat thing that's the same thickness as the
> saw blade. It goes behind the blade so that if the kerf of the board
> you're ripping tries to close up, it can't. The blade guards that come
> with table saws have a splitter bult into the design. It's the flat
> part that rides in the saw kerf and attaches to the stuff under the
> table. Usually, the stock one has some sort of plastic guard on a
> hinge on top of the splitter. The stock ones also usually have
> kickback pawls which are little springed spike thingies that jam into
> the wood if you get a kickback.
>
> Here's one type of splitter:
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=51151&cat=1,41080,41165
>
> This is just a splitter, no blade guard or kickback pawls. It's also
> not a riving knife.
>
> brian
>
On 23 Feb 2006 05:40:39 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>x-no-archive:yes
Hmmm...
>How do I tell if my wood is case hardened. I was reading baout it last
>night. This rough cut white oak I have I moticed is cracking on the
>ends in a few places. One small board has craks on one of the faces
>too.
Other than taking moisture readings (inside and out) which may or may
not reveal the problem, I don't know if there's a way to tell.
AFAIK this is usually caused by trying to kiln dry too fast, complain
to the supplier or not buy from them again?
I had a 10 ft 2x8 oak piece, when I resawed a 5/8 inch slice off, and
put it back together, with the ends touching, there was over a foot
gap in the middle! The larger side was bowed almost as much as the
thin slice. I was still able to use it as 1/2 inch baseboard although
I used it for the smaller chunks and extra.
>Is it possible to still use the wood or will it continue to split and
>deform even after cutting and planing?
If you can give it time after rough cutting (always recommended for
any wood), it should settle down.
--------------------
Steve Jensen
Abbotsford B.C.
[email protected] chopping out the mortise.
BBS'ing since 1982 at 300 bps.
Surfing along at 19200 bps since 95.
WW'ing since 1985
LV Cust #4114
Nothing catchy to say, well maybe.....
WAKE UP - There are no GODs you fools!
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> writes:
> On 23 Feb 2006 05:40:39 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>How do I tell if my wood is case hardened.
>
> read Hoadley and cut a "tuning fork" sample. if it close outwards, it's
> case hardened,
Correction - if it closes inwards. (Page 97 - Understanding Wood, 1982
Edition)
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On 23 Feb 2006 05:40:39 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>How do I tell if my wood is case hardened.
read Hoadley and cut a "tuning fork" sample. if it close outwards, it's
case hardened,
On 25 Feb 2006 02:57:40 GMT, Bruce Barnett
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> read Hoadley and cut a "tuning fork" sample. if it close outwards, it's
>> case hardened,
>
>Correction - if it closes inwards. (Page 97 - Understanding Wood, 1982
>Edition)
Indeed. How did I manage to type "closes" and "outwards" together ?