B&D replaced my old Pirhana circular saw blade after one of its
carbide teeth flew off, but the new blade looks very different. The
original one was Teflon coated, and each carbide tooth was curved
concave on the front, but the new blade is plain or chromed steel, the
teeth have flat faces, and there are more teeth.
Why did B&D changed from curved to flat carbide teeth? The curved
ones seemed to give smoother cross cuts than other carbide blades
having the same number of teeth.
Should I get one of the Mr. Sawdust or Oldham blades? I want smooth
cross cuts but reasonable cutting speed.
I can't speak to the B&D, but I have been pleasantly surprised
by the Oldham Combo (10"- 40T) blade I picked up at HD for
less than $20. I find myself using it more than many
of the 6 or 8 specialty blades I have accumulated.
And, I have successfully sharpened it myself with those
cheap diamond sharpeners & about an hour of my time.
Lou
In article <[email protected]>,
larrymoencurly <[email protected]> wrote:
> B&D replaced my old Pirhana circular saw blade after one of its
> carbide teeth flew off, but the new blade looks very different. The
> original one was Teflon coated, and each carbide tooth was curved
> concave on the front, but the new blade is plain or chromed steel, the
> teeth have flat faces, and there are more teeth.
>
> Why did B&D changed from curved to flat carbide teeth? The curved
> ones seemed to give smoother cross cuts than other carbide blades
> having the same number of teeth.
>
> Should I get one of the Mr. Sawdust or Oldham blades? I want smooth
> cross cuts but reasonable cutting speed.
"larrymoencurly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> B&D replaced my old Pirhana circular saw blade after one of its
> carbide teeth flew off,
> Why did B&D changed from curved to flat carbide teeth? The curved
> ones seemed to give smoother cross cuts than other carbide blades
> having the same number of teeth.
>
> Should I get one of the Mr. Sawdust or Oldham blades? I want smooth
> cross cuts but reasonable cutting speed.
What type of saw? What are you cutting? There are many good blades out
there and B & D is not one of the best. I like Freud, Ridge Carbide,
Forrest.
There are many more people that know about saw blades over on
rec.crafts.woodworking. Might try there if you haven't already done so.
Wayne
"larrymoencurly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> B&D replaced my old Pirhana circular saw blade after one of its
> carbide teeth flew off, but the new blade looks very different. The
> original one was Teflon coated, and each carbide tooth was curved
> concave on the front, but the new blade is plain or chromed steel, the
> teeth have flat faces, and there are more teeth.
>
> Why did B&D changed from curved to flat carbide teeth? The curved
> ones seemed to give smoother cross cuts than other carbide blades
> having the same number of teeth.
>
> Should I get one of the Mr. Sawdust or Oldham blades? I want smooth
> cross cuts but reasonable cutting speed.
Boys, When you say circular saw, do you mean a 7 1/2" Skilsaw type?
What is you application? Carpentry, framing, finish, funiture. This info
will help determine the best blade for your application.
Dave
"larrymoencurly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> B&D replaced my old Pirhana circular saw blade after one of its
> carbide teeth flew off, but the new blade looks very different. The
> original one was Teflon coated, and each carbide tooth was curved
> concave on the front, but the new blade is plain or chromed steel, the
> teeth have flat faces, and there are more teeth.
>
> Why did B&D changed from curved to flat carbide teeth? The curved
> ones seemed to give smoother cross cuts than other carbide blades
> having the same number of teeth.
>
> Should I get one of the Mr. Sawdust or Oldham blades? I want smooth
> cross cuts but reasonable cutting speed.
I agree in part with Ed's recommendations with the following caveat.
If you use it for cross (grain) cutting an 60 - 80 tooth blade will be fine.
If however, you rip (with the grain) occasionally, then maybe a 40-60 tooth
combination blade is a better choice.
Lastly, if you mostly (and more commonly) rip, then a 40 tooth ripping blade
is the answer.
Avoid all cheap blades. They will cause you more work and time than they
are worth. Do not get sucked into the thin-kerf blades either. They IMHO
are dangerous as they are more prone to kickback and they can overheat
easily, warp and can make for unpredictable cuts.
Dave
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:qDY8d.2266$Ua.402@trndny01...
>
> "larrymoencurly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> This is an old Sears Craftsman table saw, apparently the cheapest one
>> they sold with a 10" blade, and I'm using it for cabinetry that will
>> be painted. I just want cuts that are smooth enough so I don't need
>> to use so much filler for the splinters. :(
>
> If you get a good blade like a Freud Diablo, Forrest WW II, or Ridge
> Carbide, you won't have splinters and you won't need filler. Intended as
> a cross cut blade, I've used a Diablo 80 tooth blade for almost everything
> and it give a smooth cut. While not intended for ripping, it will rib
> soft wood and even 1" hardwood, but not as fast at a good combo blade.
> Home Depot has them for about $45.
>
> Cheap blades will require much more finishing time. No savings there.
>
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Boys, When you say circular saw, do you mean a 7 1/2" Skilsaw type?
>
> What is you application? Carpentry, framing, finish, funiture. This info
> will help determine the best blade for your application.
This is an old Sears Craftsman table saw, apparently the cheapest one
they sold with a 10" blade, and I'm using it for cabinetry that will
be painted. I just want cuts that are smooth enough so I don't need
to use so much filler for the splinters. :(
[email protected] (larrymoencurly) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> B&D replaced my old Pirhana circular saw blade after one of its
> carbide teeth flew off, but the new blade looks very different. The
> original one was Teflon coated, and each carbide tooth was curved
> concave on the front, but the new blade is plain or chromed steel, the
> teeth have flat faces, and there are more teeth.
>
> Why did B&D changed from curved to flat carbide teeth? The curved
> ones seemed to give smoother cross cuts than other carbide blades
> having the same number of teeth.
The curved carbides were more prone to chipping,I suspect.
Also may have been harder to resharpen.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net
"larrymoencurly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> This is an old Sears Craftsman table saw, apparently the cheapest one
> they sold with a 10" blade, and I'm using it for cabinetry that will
> be painted. I just want cuts that are smooth enough so I don't need
> to use so much filler for the splinters. :(
If you get a good blade like a Freud Diablo, Forrest WW II, or Ridge
Carbide, you won't have splinters and you won't need filler. Intended as a
cross cut blade, I've used a Diablo 80 tooth blade for almost everything and
it give a smooth cut. While not intended for ripping, it will rib soft wood
and even 1" hardwood, but not as fast at a good combo blade. Home Depot has
them for about $45.
Cheap blades will require much more finishing time. No savings there.
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 20:32:22 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"larrymoencurly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> This is an old Sears Craftsman table saw, apparently the cheapest one
>> they sold with a 10" blade, and I'm using it for cabinetry that will
>> be painted. I just want cuts that are smooth enough so I don't need
>> to use so much filler for the splinters. :(
>
>If you get a good blade like a Freud Diablo, Forrest WW II, or Ridge
>Carbide, you won't have splinters and you won't need filler. Intended as a
>cross cut blade, I've used a Diablo 80 tooth blade for almost everything and
>it give a smooth cut. While not intended for ripping, it will rib soft wood
>and even 1" hardwood, but not as fast at a good combo blade. Home Depot has
>them for about $45.
>
>Cheap blades will require much more finishing time. No savings there.
>
if the saw is chronically underpowered you'll get piss poor
performance ripping with a crosscut blade.