Bandsaw Motor Question

On Fri, 8 Sep 2017 14:59:37 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 9/8/2017 10:28 AM, G Ross wrote:
>> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v.  While sawing
>> this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting.  Now it starts a
>> little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.  The blade
>> wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
>> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
>> need checking?  Or even the capacitor?
>
>
>Could be bearings going.

I'm betting on the capacitor.

On Sat, 9 Sep 2017 10:35:38 -0700, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Fri, 8 Sep 2017 10:28:36 -0400
>G Ross <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v. While
>> sawing this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting. Now it
>> starts a little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any
>> power. The blade wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
>> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
>> need checking? Or even the capacitor?
>
>i am lazy so i would check the easiest things to check first
>
>electrical outlet
>the plug
>the on off switch
>etc

Do you even read posts before responding?
>
>then think about the motor
>
>would expect bearings to make noise if failing
>
>compressed air and vacuuming can do wonders
>
Just what is he going to vacuum?

On 9/13/2017 3:39 PM, G Ross wrote:
> G Ross wrote:
>> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v.  While
>> sawing this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting.  Now it
>> starts a little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.
>>   The blade wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
>> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
>> need checking?  Or even the capacitor?
>>
> I know many of you have been worried about my bandsaw.  I thought I had
> checked everything (wiring, breakers, switch, etc.).  I was about to
> remove the motor and noticed that the belt was really slack.  The
> tightening slots were maxed out.  I went down and bought a new belt and
> replaced it.  I always forget that the lower wheel fastens with a
> left-hand thread so I tightened it even more trying to loosen it. Then
> noticed the thread so got it off with an impact wrench to replace the belt.
> Fired it up and it saws like a new one.  As somebody told me, check the
> little things first.
>

ROTFL! Good on you!

On Sun, 10 Sep 2017 07:16:16 -0400, G Ross <[email protected]> wrote:

>G Ross wrote:
>> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v. While
>> sawing this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting. Now it
>> starts a little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.
>> The blade wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
>> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
>> need checking? Or even the capacitor?
>>
> Confession time. I assumed it was a TEFC because it looks like my
>other motors that ARE. Last evening I opened the connection box on
>the side, the wires looked fine. To take the cover off the capacitor
>I had to remove the fan cover to get at one screw. To my amazement
>the whole end of the motor is open beneath the fan. So I blew it out
>and there was no dust inside. I could not see the contacts but the
>centrifugal part looked good and moved ok.
> The capacitor looked good, but that means nothing.
> I would have to drive 50 miles to pick up a capacitor so I will just
>take the motor to the electrical shop and let them check it out.
>Thanks for all the responses.


Have you reset the breaker / changed the fuses ? Checked the
receptacle and switch for loose / burnt wire connection ?
ie: simple stuff first.
John T.

On 9/13/2017 4:39 PM, G Ross wrote:

>>
> I know many of you have been worried about my bandsaw.  I thought I had
> checked everything (wiring, breakers, switch, etc.).  I was about to
> remove the motor and noticed that the belt was really slack.  The
> tightening slots were maxed out.  I went down and bought a new belt and
> replaced it.  I always forget that the lower wheel fastens with a
> left-hand thread so I tightened it even more trying to loosen it. Then
> noticed the thread so got it off with an impact wrench to replace the belt.
> Fired it up and it saws like a new one.  As somebody told me, check the
> little things first.
>

Happy endings make me cry.

G Ross <[email protected]> wrote:

> G Ross wrote:
> > My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v. While
> > sawing this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting. Now it
> > starts a little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.
> > The blade wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
> > Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
> > need checking? Or even the capacitor?
> >
> I know many of you have been worried about my bandsaw. I thought I
> had checked everything (wiring, breakers, switch, etc.). I was about
> to remove the motor and noticed that the belt was really slack. The
> tightening slots were maxed out. I went down and bought a new belt
> and replaced it. I always forget that the lower wheel fastens with a
> left-hand thread so I tightened it even more trying to loosen it.
> Then noticed the thread so got it off with an impact wrench to replace
> the belt.
> Fired it up and it saws like a new one. As somebody told me, check
> the little things first.

Good news on your BS, I assume you fared well through Irma.

On 9/8/17 8:28 AM, G Ross wrote:
> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v. While sawing
> this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting. Now it starts a
> little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power. The blade
> wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
> need checking? Or even the capacitor?

Check the capacitor(s). Probably the run capacitor.
-BR

On 9/8/2017 10:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 9/8/17 8:28 AM, G Ross wrote:
>> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v.  While sawing
>> this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting.  Now it starts a
>> little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.  The blade
>> wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
>> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
>> need checking?  Or even the capacitor?
>
> Check the capacitor(s). Probably the run capacitor.
> -BR
>
I don't know how your motor is wired but in my table saw motor there is
a contact switch that occasionally need cleans. If enough dirt gets in
the contact the motor will not run.

That is why I vacuum my motor after every use.

--
2017: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 9/8/2017 10:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 9/8/17 8:28 AM, G Ross wrote:
>>> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v. While sawing
>>> this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting. Now it starts a
>>> little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power. The blade
>>> wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
>>> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
>>> need checking? Or even the capacitor?
>>
>> Check the capacitor(s). Probably the run capacitor.
>> -BR
>>
> I don't know how your motor is wired but in my table saw motor there is
> a contact switch that occasionally need cleans. If enough dirt gets in
> the contact the motor will not run.
>
> That is why I vacuum my motor after every use.
>
This one is totally enclosed. (TEFC) Nothing to vacuum. But it may
have an internal switch. I will look at the capacitor, but Not going
to bust the motor open.

--
GW Ross

On 9/8/2017 12:10 PM, G Ross wrote:
> Keith Nuttle wrote:
>> On 9/8/2017 10:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 9/8/17 8:28 AM, G Ross wrote:
>>>> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v.  While
>>>> sawing
>>>> this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting.  Now it starts a
>>>> little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.  The
>>>> blade
>>>> wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
>>>> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
>>>> need checking?  Or even the capacitor?
>>>
>>> Check the capacitor(s). Probably the run capacitor.
>>> -BR
>>>
>> I don't know how your motor is wired but in my table saw motor there is
>> a contact switch that occasionally need cleans.  If enough dirt gets in
>> the contact the motor will not run.
>>
>> That is why I vacuum my motor after every use.
>>
> This one is totally enclosed. (TEFC)  Nothing to vacuum. But it may have
> an internal switch.  I will look at the capacitor, but Not going to bust
> the motor open.
>
It is easy. There are two or four screws that hold the motor together.
Removing this usually separates the motor into four parts. Both end
housing with the bearings for the armature, and the center section with
the magnets. Usually you can get to the area of the capacitor, and
switches by removing the cover over the switches.

If the motor has never been worked on and it is of any age, I would
atleast remove the cover over the capactor and wire connection and
vacuum it out.



--
2017: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

On Fri, 8 Sep 2017 10:28:36 -0400
G Ross <[email protected]> wrote:

> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v. While
> sawing this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting. Now it
> starts a little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any
> power. The blade wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
> need checking? Or even the capacitor?

i am lazy so i would check the easiest things to check first

electrical outlet
the plug
the on off switch
etc

then think about the motor

would expect bearings to make noise if failing

compressed air and vacuuming can do wonders

G Ross wrote:
> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v. While
> sawing this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting. Now it
> starts a little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.
> The blade wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
> need checking? Or even the capacitor?
>
Confession time. I assumed it was a TEFC because it looks like my
other motors that ARE. Last evening I opened the connection box on
the side, the wires looked fine. To take the cover off the capacitor
I had to remove the fan cover to get at one screw. To my amazement
the whole end of the motor is open beneath the fan. So I blew it out
and there was no dust inside. I could not see the contacts but the
centrifugal part looked good and moved ok.
The capacitor looked good, but that means nothing.
I would have to drive 50 miles to pick up a capacitor so I will just
take the motor to the electrical shop and let them check it out.
Thanks for all the responses.

--
GW Ross

G Ross wrote:
>
> The capacitor looked good, but that means nothing.
> I would have to drive 50 miles to pick up a capacitor so I will
> just take the motor to the electrical shop and let them check it out.
> Thanks for all the responses.
>
My $60 voltimeter (Sperry DM-6450) has a "capacitor checker" on it.
Maybe something like that would be a worthwhile investment for you? HTH.

If you happen to have a "powered lawn edger", I would be happy to trade
with you for the day! : ) I have been debating whether to get the B&D
$75 edger, or go the old-fashioned $18 route. The last 2 times I just
used a serrated knife. Is the old-fashion way as bad as I remember it
from my youth?

Bill

Bill wrote:
> G Ross wrote:
>>
>> The capacitor looked good, but that means nothing.
>> I would have to drive 50 miles to pick up a capacitor so I will
>> just take the motor to the electrical shop and let them check it out.
>> Thanks for all the responses.
>>
> My $60 voltimeter (Sperry DM-6450) has a "capacitor checker" on it.
> Maybe something like that would be a worthwhile investment for you? HTH.
>
> If you happen to have a "powered lawn edger", I would be happy to trade
> with you for the day! : ) I have been debating whether to get the B&D
> $75 edger, or go the old-fashioned $18 route. The last 2 times I just
> used a serrated knife. Is the old-fashion way as bad as I remember it
> from my youth?
>
> Bill
>
>
Years ago I had a corded B&D edger. The blade had "wings" on the side
and would just blow out a trench. My newer one has a gasoline engine
and runs much slower and is less useful. The driveway and streets
here do not have curbs and are asphalt, so the edges are more tapered
and somewhat irregular. After using the "edger" I have to finish off
with a string trimmer or a hoe.

--
GW Ross

G Ross wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> G Ross wrote:
>>>
>>> The capacitor looked good, but that means nothing.
>>> I would have to drive 50 miles to pick up a capacitor so I will
>>> just take the motor to the electrical shop and let them check it out.
>>> Thanks for all the responses.
>>>
>> My $60 voltimeter (Sperry DM-6450) has a "capacitor checker" on it.
>> Maybe something like that would be a worthwhile investment for you? HTH.
>>
>> If you happen to have a "powered lawn edger", I would be happy to trade
>> with you for the day! : ) I have been debating whether to get the B&D
>> $75 edger, or go the old-fashioned $18 route. The last 2 times I just
>> used a serrated knife. Is the old-fashion way as bad as I remember it
>> from my youth?
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
> Years ago I had a corded B&D edger. The blade had "wings" on the side
> and would just blow out a trench. My newer one has a gasoline engine
> and runs much slower and is less useful. The driveway and streets
> here do not have curbs and are asphalt, so the edges are more tapered
> and somewhat irregular. After using the "edger" I have to finish off
> with a string trimmer or a hoe.
>
Thanks Mr. Ross. I have regular curbs and concrete. I think I have
talked myself into trying the B&D unit based upon the thought that it
will almost-surely do a "more presentable" job.

G Ross wrote:
> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v. While
> sawing this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting. Now it
> starts a little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.
> The blade wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
> need checking? Or even the capacitor?
>
I know many of you have been worried about my bandsaw. I thought I
had checked everything (wiring, breakers, switch, etc.). I was about
to remove the motor and noticed that the belt was really slack. The
tightening slots were maxed out. I went down and bought a new belt
and replaced it. I always forget that the lower wheel fastens with a
left-hand thread so I tightened it even more trying to loosen it.
Then noticed the thread so got it off with an impact wrench to replace
the belt.
Fired it up and it saws like a new one. As somebody told me, check
the little things first.

--
GW Ross

Spalted Walt wrote:
> G Ross <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> G Ross wrote:
>> > My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v. While
>> > sawing this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting. Now it
>> > starts a little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.
>> > The blade wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
>> > Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
>> > need checking? Or even the capacitor?
>> >
>> I know many of you have been worried about my bandsaw. I thought I
>> had checked everything (wiring, breakers, switch, etc.). I was about
>> to remove the motor and noticed that the belt was really slack. The
>> tightening slots were maxed out. I went down and bought a new belt
>> and replaced it. I always forget that the lower wheel fastens with a
>> left-hand thread so I tightened it even more trying to loosen it.
>> Then noticed the thread so got it off with an impact wrench to replace
>> the belt.
>> Fired it up and it saws like a new one. As somebody told me, check
>> the little things first.
>
> Good news on your BS, I assume you fared well through Irma.
>
Rain (4.7 in) Steady wind but no real gusts. Trees down all over
town, but not mine. We were out of power about 7 hr. Lots of pine
burrs in my yard and a dump-truck of small limbs. Have about finished
cleaning up the yard. Haven't seen any good turning wood, mostly
pine, oak and pecan.

--
GW Ross

On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 16:39:41 -0400
G Ross <[email protected]> wrote:

> Fired it up and it saws like a new one. As somebody told me, check
> the little things first.

wonder if it had the original belt

surprised that the belt stretched

maybe the belt was too tight and stretched that way

did you get a smaller belt for it

On 9/8/2017 10:28 AM, G Ross wrote:
> My bandsaw has a 1 hp 110/220 TEFC motor, wired for 220 v.  While sawing
> this morning it suddenly bogged down while cutting.  Now it starts a
> little slower, runs a little slower and has hardly any power.  The blade
> wheels turn easily when the motor is off.
> Does this sound like the internal switch not working or the windings
> need checking?  Or even the capacitor?


Could be bearings going.