I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
for my adult son.
http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 19:08:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
>> > made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
>> > for my adult son.
>> >
>> > http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>> >
>> > I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
>> > Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
>> >
>> > I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
>> > the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
>> > ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
>> >
>> > For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
>
>Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
>since the finish is still drying.
>
>The base:
>
>http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
>
>The Board:
>
>http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
>
>I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
>difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
>
>I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
>1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
>be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
>
>I still need to add the brass pivoting rod to the base and epoxy in the
>earth magnets. I gotta tell ya, testing fitting the earth magnets was
>quite the adventure. I almost had to keep the base and the board on
>opposite sides of the shop. ;-)
Nice job. I've often thought of making a crib board and modelling
it after my father-in-law's - he got it in Africa, as a merchant
marine, in WW 2. The best feature was the brass inserts in each
hole - and the straight < not tapered ! > brass pegs - much
smoother to play than the sticky tapered pegs.
It was a straight up & back layout.
John T.
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:07:45 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 17:39:07 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> >made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> >for my adult son.
> >
> >http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
> >
> >I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> >Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
> >
> >I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> >the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> >ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
> >
> >For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
>
> I haven't made one but I've used my share of them. I think I'd like a
> score mark, or some such, every five holes but numbers? No need. I
> know where start and end are, too. Dry-rub lettering on a fine piece
> of wood is sacrilege. ;-)
What to do you mean by a "score mark...every five holes"? Score as in
"a notch or line cut or scratched into a surface"?
The gap between the sets of 5 pegs holes isn't enough?
On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 2:10:24 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
> I never made a cribbage board, but I've played a lot of cribbage. I like
> some sort of skunk line, double skunk line, and five point deliniation of
> sort, but numbers are certainly not needed. There should be a game count
> scoring area for a full set of games, and three holes for each color/style
> pins to rest before any scoring begins.
>
> I always like the 29 shaped boards as well hangers or shelf pieces, but a
> simple rectangular full travel board is much preferred for playing. It
> makes a nice table divider and allows the dealer to place the stack on his
> side to keep track of who's deal it is. For a fold up travel board the
> twice around is ok, but really how many of us are packing everything we own
> in the saddle bag of our horse anymore?
>
> ********
>
>
>
>
> "DerbyDad03" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> for my adult son.
>
> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>
> I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have
> no labeling at all.
>
> I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
>
> For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
The board I made has everything you mentioned except for the skunk lines.
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> > made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> > for my adult son.
> >
> > http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
> >
> > I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> > Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
> >
> > I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> > the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> > ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
> >
> > For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
> >
> >
> >
>
> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
Sorry about the previous post. One of the image links was incorrect.
Here are the 2 correct ones:
http://i.imgur.com/ouehBqf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vooVWFE.jpg
On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 18:40:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:07:45 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 17:39:07 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
>> >made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
>> >for my adult son.
>> >
>> >http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>> >
>> >I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
>> >Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
>> >
>> >I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
>> >the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
>> >ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
>> >
>> >For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
>>
>> I haven't made one but I've used my share of them. I think I'd like a
>> score mark, or some such, every five holes but numbers? No need. I
>> know where start and end are, too. Dry-rub lettering on a fine piece
>> of wood is sacrilege. ;-)
>
>What to do you mean by a "score mark...every five holes"? Score as in
>"a notch or line cut or scratched into a surface"?
>
>The gap between the sets of 5 pegs holes isn't enough?
Sorry, I didn't see the gap between the groupings in the photo. It's
clear in the plans, though. Sure, that's enough. The extra hole
helps, too. I wouldn't do anything else. I'm sure it will be
appreciated.
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 10:34:34 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 6/10/2017 10:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> >>
> >> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
> >
> > Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
> > since the finish is still drying.
> >
> > The base:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
> >
> > The Board:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
> >
> > I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
> > difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
> >
> > I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
> > 1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
> > be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
>
> I don't know cribbage from cabbage but it looks very nice. The
> contrasting woods work well.
There's a number to call at the end of this video. Call them. They are
always looking for new players and really seem like the type that would
love to teach a newcomer how to play. :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXp-KddheG8
On 6/10/2017 9:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
>>> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
>>> for my adult son.
>>>
>>> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>>>
>>> I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
>>> Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
>>>
>>> I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
>>> the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
>>> ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
>>>
>>> For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
>
> Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
> since the finish is still drying.
>
> The base:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
>
> The Board:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
>
> I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
> difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
Not sure, but from my take on the picture of the base, it doesn't appear
that those finger notches go all the way to the base of the routed out
space for the cards. Seems to me that they should be flush (at a
minimum) or slightly below the base of the card area to achieve the
desired purpose. Maybe an appropriate sized Forstner bit coming in at
an angle with the edges rounded would do the trick.
That said, the color combination of the Paduak and Maple will look
great. What will you use for the pegs?
My late father was a cribbage player AND a photoengraver. In his trade
work they used cherry blocking for the copper plates and, as you might
suspect, there was always surplus cherry and copper to be had. He made
boards out of cherry, routed and inlaid copper strips every 5 holes, and
then inlet for a copper drawer in the board.
His boards were, at best, 5/4 stock so he never provisioned a spot to
store the playing cards.
The pegs? 3/16" strips of copper, milled so they were square and then
chucked in a drill press and hand turned so the bottom 80% was tapered
leaving the top squared off.
Really looked nice as the cherry darkened and the copper took on that
patina.
On 6/10/2017 9:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 10:23:16 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>> On 6/10/2017 9:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
>>>>> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
>>>>> for my adult son.
>>>>>
>>>>> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/proj
[snip]
>> Not sure, but from my take on the picture of the base, it doesn't appear
>> that those finger notches go all the way to the base of the routed out
>> space for the cards. Seems to me that they should be flush (at a
>> minimum) or slightly below the base of the card area to achieve the
>> desired purpose. Maybe an appropriate sized Forstner bit coming in at
>> an angle with the edges rounded would do the trick.
>
> The notches don't go all the way down. They are just deep enough to grab
> the edges of the box. There is no need to go all the way down to the bottom
> of the recess. It's not like a deck of cards weighs 40 pounds. ;-)
DOH! What was I thinking? I was thinking that the cards were stored
out of the pack, don't ask why. ;)
On 6/10/2017 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 10:24:09 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 19:08:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
[snip]
>>>
>>> I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
>>> 1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
>>> be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
>>
>> I think the 1/16" chamfer is a good idea.
>
> You know, if you look closely at the picture at the site I linked to, it looks
> like they did a chamfer on the board section just like I did. I didn't notice
> it before, and they didn't mention it in the plans, so I'm still claiming
> the idea as my own. ;-)
>
> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>
>>
>>> I still need to add the brass pivoting rod to the base and epoxy in the
>>> earth magnets. I gotta tell ya, testing fitting the earth magnets was
>>> quite the adventure. I almost had to keep the base and the board on
>>> opposite sides of the shop. ;-)
>>
>> ;-) Make sure you get them in the right direction! ;-)
>
> Maybe I'll reverse them and let the board float above the base. Of course,
> that might make it hard to get into the shipping box.
Great idea! If the top half of the sandwich is levitating, it could cut
down on shipping costs! ;-)
On 6/11/2017 2:39 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 21:12:15 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
[snip]
>> I was going to line the recesses with some adhesive backed cork that I
>> have, but since I have to go to a crafts store tomorrow for the brass
>> pivot rod, I will see if they have some felt that will look good with
>> the dark wood.
>
> That would be a nice touch, if there's space. Since you intend for
> the base and board to separate, you might think about a pivot rod and
> brass tubing to sized to fit as a bushing.
If you want to line the "peg pocket", there's an old craft trick that
should work pretty neat for a formfitting liner.
Don't buy the adhesive backed felt, just grab a little piece of whatever
color you want, get a couple coats of finish on the base and THEN, rough
cut the felt to size and wet it. Press it into the pocket and smooth it
out in the corners, etc. Once it dries, it will be formed to the
pocket. Carefully remove it and take some white Elmer's glue (though I
suppose TiteBond would work equally well. With your finger paint the
inside of the pocket and then carefully put the the felt back in and
press it in place. When the glue dries, trim the top edge with a brand
new single edged razor blade. It will look like a perfect fit/finish
because it will be. ;-)
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 10:24:09 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 19:08:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> > I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> >> > made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> >> > for my adult son.
> >> >
> >> > http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
> >> >
> >> > I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> >> > Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
> >> >
> >> > I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> >> > the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> >> > ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
> >> >
> >> > For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
> >
> >Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
> >since the finish is still drying.
>
> Photoshop? ;-)
>
> >The base:
> >
> >http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
> >
> >The Board:
> >
> >http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
>
> Very nice! The contrast will be spectacular.
>
> >I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
> >difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
> >
> >I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
> >1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
> >be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
>
> I think the 1/16" chamfer is a good idea.
You know, if you look closely at the picture at the site I linked to, it looks
like they did a chamfer on the board section just like I did. I didn't notice
it before, and they didn't mention it in the plans, so I'm still claiming
the idea as my own. ;-)
http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>
> >I still need to add the brass pivoting rod to the base and epoxy in the
> >earth magnets. I gotta tell ya, testing fitting the earth magnets was
> >quite the adventure. I almost had to keep the base and the board on
> >opposite sides of the shop. ;-)
>
> ;-) Make sure you get them in the right direction! ;-)
Maybe I'll reverse them and let the board float above the base. Of course,
that might make it hard to get into the shipping box.
On 6/10/2017 9:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
>>> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
>>> for my adult son.
>>>
>>> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>>>
>>> I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
>>> Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
>>>
>>> I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
>>> the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
>>> ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
>>>
>>> For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
>
> Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
> since the finish is still drying.
>
> The base:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
>
> The Board:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
>
> I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
> difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
>
> I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
> 1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
> be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
>
> I still need to add the brass pivoting rod to the base and epoxy in the
> earth magnets. I gotta tell ya, testing fitting the earth magnets was
> quite the adventure. I almost had to keep the base and the board on
> opposite sides of the shop. ;-)
>
Excellent!
We/I like to see the progress pictures. Looking good!
On 6/10/2017 10:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
>
> Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
> since the finish is still drying.
>
> The base:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
>
> The Board:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
>
> I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
> difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
>
> I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
> 1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
> be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
I don't know cribbage from cabbage but it looks very nice. The
contrasting woods work well.
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 11:20:41 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 21:56:29 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On 6/10/2017 9:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 10:23:16 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
> >>> On 6/10/2017 9:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >>>>> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> >>>>>> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> >>>>>> for my adult son.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/proj
> >
> >[snip]
> >
> >>> Not sure, but from my take on the picture of the base, it doesn't appear
> >>> that those finger notches go all the way to the base of the routed out
> >>> space for the cards. Seems to me that they should be flush (at a
> >>> minimum) or slightly below the base of the card area to achieve the
> >>> desired purpose. Maybe an appropriate sized Forstner bit coming in at
> >>> an angle with the edges rounded would do the trick.
> >>
> >> The notches don't go all the way down. They are just deep enough to grab
> >> the edges of the box. There is no need to go all the way down to the bottom
> >> of the recess. It's not like a deck of cards weighs 40 pounds. ;-)
> >
> >DOH! What was I thinking? I was thinking that the cards were stored
> >out of the pack, don't ask why. ;)
>
> If it makes you feel any better, you weren't alone. ;-)
Well, the board will be shipped with the cards in a box. What my son will
do with the box once he opens it is anybody's guess.
I even bought a red deck 'cuz a blue box would clash with the Paduak. ;-)
I was going to line the recesses with some adhesive backed cork that I
have, but since I have to go to a crafts store tomorrow for the brass
pivot rod, I will see if they have some felt that will look good with
the dark wood.
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 11:44:27 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 6/10/2017 9:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> >>> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> >>> for my adult son.
> >>>
> >>> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
> >>>
> >>> I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> >>> Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
> >>>
> >>> I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> >>> the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> >>> ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
> >>>
> >>> For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
> >
> > Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
> > since the finish is still drying.
> >
> > The base:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
> >
> > The Board:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
> >
> > I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
> > difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
> >
> > I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
> > 1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
> > be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
> >
> > I still need to add the brass pivoting rod to the base and epoxy in the
> > earth magnets. I gotta tell ya, testing fitting the earth magnets was
> > quite the adventure. I almost had to keep the base and the board on
> > opposite sides of the shop. ;-)
> >
>
>
> Excellent!
>
> We/I like to see the progress pictures. Looking good!
Thanks. (to all)
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> > made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> > for my adult son.
> >
> > http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
> >
> > I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> > Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
> >
> > I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> > the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> > ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
> >
> > For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
> >
> >
> >
>
> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
Here's the final outcome.
http://i.imgur.com/ouehBqf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nAQMBKb.jpg
The rare earth magnet holds really well. As you spin the board into the
closed position, it gets about an inch from closed and just snaps into
place. Pretty cool!
Hopefully my son and I will break it in when he arrives on Wednesday.
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> > made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> > for my adult son.
> >
> > http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
> >
> > I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> > Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
> >
> > I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> > the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> > ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
> >
> > For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
> >
> >
> >
>
> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
since the finish is still drying.
The base:
http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
The Board:
http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
I still need to add the brass pivoting rod to the base and epoxy in the
earth magnets. I gotta tell ya, testing fitting the earth magnets was
quite the adventure. I almost had to keep the base and the board on
opposite sides of the shop. ;-)
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:08:27 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> > On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > > I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> > > made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> > > for my adult son.
> > >
> > > http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
> > >
> > > I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> > > Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
> > >
> > > I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> > > the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> > > ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
> > >
> > > For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
>
> Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
> since the finish is still drying.
>
> The base:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
>
> The Board:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
>
> I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
> difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
>
> I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
> 1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
> be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
>
> I still need to add the brass pivoting rod to the base and epoxy in the
> earth magnets. I gotta tell ya, testing fitting the earth magnets was
> quite the adventure. I almost had to keep the base and the board on
> opposite sides of the shop. ;-)
That's a great looking board!
Mike
On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 1:27:05 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 8:49:46 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> >> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board.
> >> Maybe you should stop there? I don't think the base will make it easier
> >> to use (at all). Maybe build a case, or some other way to hold the
> >> pegs, or add a monogram?
> >> uh...the base is the case, and not just for the pegs.
>
> Okay, great. No reason for the scoring surface to be any higher than
> necessary.
> Good project! : )
I hear what you are saying.
I haven't installed the brass pivot rod yet. I'm going to experiment with the tightness and
see if is possible to make the board easily removable. The earth magnet should hold the
top on securely when it's lined up and the pivot rod is in its hole. Maybe bevel the hole on
the underside of the board to make it easier to reinsert after the game.
...and a run for 10.
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 8:49:46 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board.
> Maybe you should stop there? I don't think the base will make it easier
> to use (at all). Maybe build a case, or some other way to hold the
> pegs, or add a monogram?
> uh...the base is the case, and not just for the pegs.
http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/files/2011/10/130_detail2.jpg
> By the way, I have seen marks at 60 as well as
> at 90 (60 is a quadruple win and 90 is of course a double win).
>
> Fifteen-two! : )
> Bill
>
>
> > The base is
> > made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> > for my adult son.
> >
> > http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
> >
> > I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> > Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
> >
> > I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> > the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> > ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
> >
> > For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
> >
> >
> >
On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> for my adult son.
>
> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>
> I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
>
> I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
>
> For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
>
>
>
How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 5:51:14 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
> On 6/11/2017 2:39 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> > On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 21:12:15 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> [snip]
>
> >> I was going to line the recesses with some adhesive backed cork that I
> >> have, but since I have to go to a crafts store tomorrow for the brass
> >> pivot rod, I will see if they have some felt that will look good with
> >> the dark wood.
> >
> > That would be a nice touch, if there's space. Since you intend for
> > the base and board to separate, you might think about a pivot rod and
> > brass tubing to sized to fit as a bushing.
>
> If you want to line the "peg pocket", there's an old craft trick that
> should work pretty neat for a formfitting liner.
>
> Don't buy the adhesive backed felt, just grab a little piece of whatever
> color you want, get a couple coats of finish on the base and THEN, rough
> cut the felt to size and wet it. Press it into the pocket and smooth it
> out in the corners, etc. Once it dries, it will be formed to the
> pocket. Carefully remove it and take some white Elmer's glue (though I
> suppose TiteBond would work equally well. With your finger paint the
> inside of the pocket and then carefully put the the felt back in and
> press it in place. When the glue dries, trim the top edge with a brand
> new single edged razor blade. It will look like a perfect fit/finish
> because it will be. ;-)
Thanks. I'll consider that.
On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 10:23:16 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
> On 6/10/2017 9:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
> >>> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> >>> for my adult son.
> >>>
> >>> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
> >>>
> >>> I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> >>> Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
> >>>
> >>> I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> >>> the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> >>> ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
> >>>
> >>> For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
> >
> > Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
> > since the finish is still drying.
> >
> > The base:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
> >
> > The Board:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
> >
> > I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
> > difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
>
> Not sure, but from my take on the picture of the base, it doesn't appear
> that those finger notches go all the way to the base of the routed out
> space for the cards. Seems to me that they should be flush (at a
> minimum) or slightly below the base of the card area to achieve the
> desired purpose. Maybe an appropriate sized Forstner bit coming in at
> an angle with the edges rounded would do the trick.
The notches don't go all the way down. They are just deep enough to grab
the edges of the box. There is no need to go all the way down to the bottom
of the recess. It's not like a deck of cards weighs 40 pounds. ;-)
If they went all the way down, they would have to be much bigger than the
3/4" semi-circle they are now.
>
> That said, the color combination of the Paduak and Maple will look
> great. What will you use for the pegs?
Yeah, I like the color combination too. I originally grabbed a piece of
walnut from the hardwood dealer I was at. Then while I was walking over to
the maple (on the other side of the store) I passed the rack of Paduak,
Purple Heart, etc. The Paduak caught my eye and I put the walnut back.
As nice as the board looks, the chips from drilling and routing are absolutely
stunning. ;-)
I'm using the same pegs as shown in the plans. I ordered them from Lee Valley.
3 each of the metal ones shown here:
http://www.leevalley.com/us/gifts/page.aspx?p=32777&cat=,43313&ap=1
>
> My late father was a cribbage player AND a photoengraver. In his trade
> work they used cherry blocking for the copper plates and, as you might
> suspect, there was always surplus cherry and copper to be had. He made
> boards out of cherry, routed and inlaid copper strips every 5 holes, and
> then inlet for a copper drawer in the board.
>
> His boards were, at best, 5/4 stock so he never provisioned a spot to
> store the playing cards.
I made a board for my dad a few years back. I don't think it was much more
than 5/4. I made a very thin dovetailed sliding door to cover a card recess.
They barely fit and you had to take the cards out to use the peg holes above
the storage space. Dangerously thin at the top, but it's held up so far.
>
> The pegs? 3/16" strips of copper, milled so they were square and then
> chucked in a drill press and hand turned so the bottom 80% was tapered
> leaving the top squared off.
>
> Really looked nice as the cherry darkened and the copper took on that
> patina.
Sounds really nice.
On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 21:12:15 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 11:20:41 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 21:56:29 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >On 6/10/2017 9:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 10:23:16 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>> >>> On 6/10/2017 9:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >>>> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> >>>>> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >>>>>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
>> >>>>>> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
>> >>>>>> for my adult son.
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/proj
>> >
>> >[snip]
>> >
>> >>> Not sure, but from my take on the picture of the base, it doesn't appear
>> >>> that those finger notches go all the way to the base of the routed out
>> >>> space for the cards. Seems to me that they should be flush (at a
>> >>> minimum) or slightly below the base of the card area to achieve the
>> >>> desired purpose. Maybe an appropriate sized Forstner bit coming in at
>> >>> an angle with the edges rounded would do the trick.
>> >>
>> >> The notches don't go all the way down. They are just deep enough to grab
>> >> the edges of the box. There is no need to go all the way down to the bottom
>> >> of the recess. It's not like a deck of cards weighs 40 pounds. ;-)
>> >
>> >DOH! What was I thinking? I was thinking that the cards were stored
>> >out of the pack, don't ask why. ;)
>>
>> If it makes you feel any better, you weren't alone. ;-)
>
>Well, the board will be shipped with the cards in a box. What my son will
>do with the box once he opens it is anybody's guess.
I'd bet he keeps the box. I was thinking about this after I sent the
last post. Without the box, the swing base is going to make a mess of
the cards. Oops.
>
>I even bought a red deck 'cuz a blue box would clash with the Paduak. ;-)
You coulda used Purple Heart. ;-) BTW, I love Purple Heart but can't
think of a place I'd use it.
>I was going to line the recesses with some adhesive backed cork that I
>have, but since I have to go to a crafts store tomorrow for the brass
>pivot rod, I will see if they have some felt that will look good with
>the dark wood.
That would be a nice touch, if there's space. Since you intend for
the base and board to separate, you might think about a pivot rod and
brass tubing to sized to fit as a bushing.
On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 21:56:29 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 6/10/2017 9:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 10:23:16 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>>> On 6/10/2017 9:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
>>>>>> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
>>>>>> for my adult son.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/proj
>
>[snip]
>
>>> Not sure, but from my take on the picture of the base, it doesn't appear
>>> that those finger notches go all the way to the base of the routed out
>>> space for the cards. Seems to me that they should be flush (at a
>>> minimum) or slightly below the base of the card area to achieve the
>>> desired purpose. Maybe an appropriate sized Forstner bit coming in at
>>> an angle with the edges rounded would do the trick.
>>
>> The notches don't go all the way down. They are just deep enough to grab
>> the edges of the box. There is no need to go all the way down to the bottom
>> of the recess. It's not like a deck of cards weighs 40 pounds. ;-)
>
>DOH! What was I thinking? I was thinking that the cards were stored
>out of the pack, don't ask why. ;)
If it makes you feel any better, you weren't alone. ;-)
On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 19:08:26 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 9:41:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 6/10/2017 7:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
>> > made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
>> > for my adult son.
>> >
>> > http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>> >
>> > I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
>> > Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
>> >
>> > I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
>> > the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
>> > ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
>> >
>> > For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> How about a picture of what YOU built. ;~)
>
>Well, if you insist, but for now, it'll have to be 2 different pictures
>since the finish is still drying.
Photoshop? ;-)
>The base:
>
>http://i.imgur.com/LR6ztpz.jpg
>
>The Board:
>
>http://i.imgur.com/velaj5J.jpg
Very nice! The contrast will be spectacular.
>I added a couple of things to the original plans. I found it a little
>difficult to get the cards out of the recess, so I added finger notches.
>
>I also added a ~1/16" chamfer to all exposed edges. The plans called for a
>1/4" chamfer only on the base and I thought that repeating the chamfer would
>be a good way to soften all the edges. I like the look.
I think the 1/16" chamfer is a good idea.
>I still need to add the brass pivoting rod to the base and epoxy in the
>earth magnets. I gotta tell ya, testing fitting the earth magnets was
>quite the adventure. I almost had to keep the base and the board on
>opposite sides of the shop. ;-)
;-) Make sure you get them in the right direction! ;-)
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board.
Maybe you should stop there? I don't think the base will make it easier
to use (at all). Maybe build a case, or some other way to hold the
pegs, or add a monogram? By the way, I have seen marks at 60 as well as
at 90 (60 is a quadruple win and 90 is of course a double win).
Fifteen-two! : )
Bill
> The base is
> made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
> for my adult son.
>
> http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>
> I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
> Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
>
> I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
> the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
> ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
>
> For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
>
>
>
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 8:49:46 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board.
>> Maybe you should stop there? I don't think the base will make it easier
>> to use (at all). Maybe build a case, or some other way to hold the
>> pegs, or add a monogram?
>> uh...the base is the case, and not just for the pegs.
Okay, great. No reason for the scoring surface to be any higher than
necessary.
Good project! : )
I never made a cribbage board, but I've played a lot of cribbage. I like
some sort of skunk line, double skunk line, and five point deliniation of
sort, but numbers are certainly not needed. There should be a game count
scoring area for a full set of games, and three holes for each color/style
pins to rest before any scoring begins.
I always like the 29 shaped boards as well hangers or shelf pieces, but a
simple rectangular full travel board is much preferred for playing. It
makes a nice table divider and allows the dealer to place the stack on his
side to keep track of who's deal it is. For a fold up travel board the
twice around is ok, but really how many of us are packing everything we own
in the saddle bag of our horse anymore?
********
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
for my adult son.
http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have
no labeling at all.
I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
On 6/11/17 3:51 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
> On 6/11/2017 2:39 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 21:12:15 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
> [snip]
>
>>> I was going to line the recesses with some adhesive backed cork that I
>>> have, but since I have to go to a crafts store tomorrow for the brass
>>> pivot rod, I will see if they have some felt that will look good with
>>> the dark wood.
>>
>> That would be a nice touch, if there's space. Since you intend for
>> the base and board to separate, you might think about a pivot rod and
>> brass tubing to sized to fit as a bushing.
>
> If you want to line the "peg pocket", there's an old craft trick that
> should work pretty neat for a formfitting liner.
>
> Don't buy the adhesive backed felt, just grab a little piece of whatever
> color you want, get a couple coats of finish on the base and THEN, rough
> cut the felt to size and wet it. Press it into the pocket and smooth it
> out in the corners, etc. Once it dries, it will be formed to the
> pocket. Carefully remove it and take some white Elmer's glue (though I
> suppose TiteBond would work equally well. With your finger paint the
> inside of the pocket and then carefully put the the felt back in and
> press it in place. When the glue dries, trim the top edge with a brand
> new single edged razor blade. It will look like a perfect fit/finish
> because it will be. ;-)
>
>
>
>
Or flocking 8^)
-BR
On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 22:43:53 -0400
[email protected] wrote:
> Nice job. I've often thought of making a crib board and modelling
> it after my father-in-law's - he got it in Africa, as a merchant
> marine, in WW 2. The best feature was the brass inserts in each
> hole - and the straight < not tapered ! > brass pegs - much
> smoother to play than the sticky tapered pegs.
> It was a straight up & back layout.
that is a great idea as those tapered pegs are annoying especially
for anyone with impairments
have not ever seen a board with straight pegs and holes and definitely
not one with brass inserts
can feel an inspiration coming on
have seen the brass tubing at the hardware store
On Sat, 10 Jun 2017 17:39:07 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is
>made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise
>for my adult son.
>
>http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2447/project-plans/make-a-cribbage-board
>
>I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start,
>Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.
>
>I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying
>the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I
>ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)
>
>For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?
I haven't made one but I've used my share of them. I think I'd like a
score mark, or some such, every five holes but numbers? No need. I
know where start and end are, too. Dry-rub lettering on a fine piece
of wood is sacrilege. ;-)