Bandsaw Fences: Which do you like?

Pat...

Yes, Jet listened to the complaints and they tweaked this model good.
It has a easy to use tension release lever, cast iron wheels, 1¼ HP
motor, and a 4" standard dust port.

The package deal I bought came with a mobile base, an Iturra tension
spring, the 6" factory riser installed, and the Iturra brush
installed. On top of that I got five new timberwolf blades with it,
so I have a full range of blades right up to 3/4", and wheel shims in
case I need them.

It runs real nice, but I may put a link belt on it just to make it
even smoother. So you can see... the only thing I could put on it is
a magnetic light and a fence... but we'll see what the consensus is.
I think I'd rather buy a fence and use it, than spend a weekend making
one plus spending the money on the track.

Mike

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 16:37:16 GMT, "patrick conroy"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>
>> I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
>> including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
>
>Sweeeeeeeeeeeet...
>Did the Iturra brushes come installed? If not, how was installation?
>
>Is there improved dust collection over the stock model? Anything besides the
>2 1/2" hose connection under the table?
>
>
>
>>
>> Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
>> 15".
>
>I went with the OEM fence for my JWBS-14. It's OK and does the job.
>Obviously, mounting is pretty easy. There's a scale, but it's definiately a
>"guess, saw, measure, tap/tap, saw measure, tap/tap" fence. The
>construction components seem solid. It locks down well. I don't use the
>plastic resaw guide/insert.
>
>If I could put that "bullet back in the gun", I'd probably try Duginske's
>(sp?) which is now a Kreg, I believe.
>

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
> including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
> and the only thing I need is a fence.
>
> So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
> Delta Universal, and what else? Even though I don't see a lot of
> resawing down the road, I do like the idea of a T-Slot fence that can
> mount sacrificial boards or the resaw bump. Rockler has a full 24"
> table and fence setup for the same price as the Kreig.
>
> Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
> 15".
>
> Mike

Mike, I just added a 6" tall x 20" scrap to the existing Jet (18") fence.
Works great.
I found the re-sawing attachments, those that utilize a round or arched face
a pain. If your saw is set up properly, a straight tall fence will suffice
just fine. Other than that, most bandsaw operations don't require a fence
at all.

Dave



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"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 00:35:57 GMT, "Don" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> >"Larry Jaques"> wrote
> >> Patriarch> spake:
> >>>Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
> >>>turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
> >>>fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah,
right)
> >>>put in, with the micro adjustable feature.
> >>
> >> So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.
> >
> >Is the drift angle consistent?
> >If not, what would cause it to change?
> >
> As I understand it, you have a flat blade running on a set of rounded
wheels and
> tires... the slight bend this produces causes drift...
> I've noticed that tracking, blade size and murphys law can change the
drift...
> (if ya get my drift *groan* )
>

You got it wrong. The reason the blade leads (or doesn't) is the blade, not
the wheels on the saw, where improper centering of blade on crown, or moving
crown can cause "surge" as it rotates.

Think of how far from those wheels you're cutting, and how little the blade
needs to spring to compensate.

Now consider how a bit of imbalance in the set/sharpness/deburring, etc. of
the teeth will cause greater drag on one side, right in the cut, where it
counts.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...


> I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
> including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,

Sweeeeeeeeeeeet...
Did the Iturra brushes come installed? If not, how was installation?

Is there improved dust collection over the stock model? Anything besides the
2 1/2" hose connection under the table?



>
> Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
> 15".

I went with the OEM fence for my JWBS-14. It's OK and does the job.
Obviously, mounting is pretty easy. There's a scale, but it's definiately a
"guess, saw, measure, tap/tap, saw measure, tap/tap" fence. The
construction components seem solid. It locks down well. I don't use the
plastic resaw guide/insert.

If I could put that "bullet back in the gun", I'd probably try Duginske's
(sp?) which is now a Kreg, I believe.

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 22:06:29 -0600, the inscrutable Patriarch
<[email protected]> spake:

>"patrick conroy" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
><snip>
>>> And if I had the $100 back I spent on the parts of that kit, I'd use
>>> the
>> c-
>>> clamp and jointed stick approach mentioned earlier. It isn't bad at
>>> all, but it is no better, in my somewhat limited experience.
>>
>> Be careful!
>> Ya' know - logic like that just might stall the US Economy! :)
>>
>
>Rest assured, the cash would be reinvested into more tools. In fact, I was
>just looking at upgrading some of the seriously cheap beginner turning
>tools that I have. I made the 'mistake' of buying a couple of really nice
>P&N bowl gouges (Aussie-made, purchased from my favorite Kanukistani tool
>dealer) It'a amazing just how quickly the 'starter set' tools dull on the
>same project.

I have a feeling that all chisels, even the good and expensive jobs,
would need honing during a long session with dried hardwoods. In terms
of wood-feet cut, an hour at the lathe is like a week in the shop with
a hand chisel.


>And then there's the 'good lathe' question, yet to be answered...

Oh, the $79.95 HF special, of course. [Unless you find a pristine(?)
example of a Powr-Kraft lathe like I did for $15.]


Added Bonus Link:

Today's safety URL is entitled "How To Cut Your Thumb Off."
http://www.mini-lathe.com/thumb.htm


========================================================
Was that an African + http://www.diversify.com
or European Swallow? + Gourmet Web Applications
========================================================

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 00:35:57 GMT, "Don" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Larry Jaques"> wrote
>> Patriarch> spake:
>>>Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
>>>turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
>>>fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah, right)
>>>put in, with the micro adjustable feature.
>>
>> So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.
>
>Is the drift angle consistent?
>If not, what would cause it to change?
>
As I understand it, you have a flat blade running on a set of rounded wheels and
tires... the slight bend this produces causes drift...
I've noticed that tracking, blade size and murphys law can change the drift...
(if ya get my drift *groan* )

As I learned from Charlie's site, an easy method is to find a chunk of something
with a known square edge, scribe a straight line down the middle of it, square
to/with the good edge, and cut along the line until you're half way though the
stock (or about 6 or 7").. hold on to the stock and turn off the saw..

You'll see that (usually) the square edge of the stock is not square with your
miter slot or fence... scribe a line on the table along the square edge and set
your fence to that line/angle..

Disclaimer: I've had a band saw for a few months and use it mostly for bowl
blanks.. if you hurt yourself or ruin wood/saw blades using the above comments,
feel free to sue for the same amount that you paid for the advice..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 19:38:47 -0600, the inscrutable Patriarch
<[email protected]> spake:

>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>> Got crowbars? Get off your butt, refi the house, and go buy a nice
>> little Nova or Oneway. See if I care. ;)
>
>Thank you for permission, kind sir. The wife agrees, too. Nice how that
>works out.

Jewelcome. Send my commission via check or Paypal, please.

--
Put some color in your cheeks: Garden Naked!
------
www.diversify.com Colorful Website Development

[email protected] wrote:
...
> So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
> Delta Universal, and what else?

...

> Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
> 15".

Naw, no opinions here. Heh.

I find for regular use a couple of c-clamps and a jointed board works
really really well. Stuff coming off the BS needs clean-up anyway;
having some fancy fence that is super-precise and sings and dances is
total waste, IMO. YMMV.

PK

I would look at what this guy did...

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

Ken is VERY creative.


[email protected] wrote:

> I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
> including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
> and the only thing I need is a fence.
>
> So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
> Delta Universal, and what else? Even though I don't see a lot of
> resawing down the road, I do like the idea of a T-Slot fence that can
> mount sacrificial boards or the resaw bump. Rockler has a full 24"
> table and fence setup for the same price as the Kreig.
>
> Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
> 15".
>
> Mike

"Larry Jaques"> wrote
> Patriarch> spake:
>>Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
>>turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
>>fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah, right)
>>put in, with the micro adjustable feature.
>
> So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.

Is the drift angle consistent?
If not, what would cause it to change?

"patrick conroy" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

<snip>

> If I could put that "bullet back in the gun", I'd probably try
> Duginske's (sp?) which is now a Kreg, I believe.
>

And if I had the $100 back I spent on the parts of that kit, I'd use the c-
clamp and jointed stick approach mentioned earlier. It isn't bad at all,
but it is no better, in my somewhat limited experience.

Spend the cash on a selection of quality blades.

Patriarch

"patrick conroy" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>> And if I had the $100 back I spent on the parts of that kit, I'd use
>> the
> c-
>> clamp and jointed stick approach mentioned earlier. It isn't bad at
>> all, but it is no better, in my somewhat limited experience.
>
> Be careful!
> Ya' know - logic like that just might stall the US Economy! :)
>

Rest assured, the cash would be reinvested into more tools. In fact, I was
just looking at upgrading some of the seriously cheap beginner turning
tools that I have. I made the 'mistake' of buying a couple of really nice
P&N bowl gouges (Aussie-made, purchased from my favorite Kanukistani tool
dealer) It'a amazing just how quickly the 'starter set' tools dull on the
same project.

And then there's the 'good lathe' question, yet to be answered...

Patriarch

Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>>Rest assured, the cash would be reinvested into more tools. In fact,
>>I was just looking at upgrading some of the seriously cheap beginner
>>turning tools that I have. I made the 'mistake' of buying a couple of
>>really nice P&N bowl gouges (Aussie-made, purchased from my favorite
>>Kanukistani tool dealer) It'a amazing just how quickly the 'starter
>>set' tools dull on the same project.
>
> I have a feeling that all chisels, even the good and expensive jobs,
> would need honing during a long session with dried hardwoods. In terms
> of wood-feet cut, an hour at the lathe is like a week in the shop with
> a hand chisel.
>

There is a story, possibly apocryphal, of the Japanese master, who re-honed
his plane blade after each, nearly perfect cut.

I am after a different operating plan.

Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah, right)
put in, with the micro adjustable feature.

Re: HF: Larry, I know it's your favorite toy store, but the place makes my
skin crawl. I already have a lathe whose limitations were reached almost
immediately. I don't want to buy another loser, at any price. It would
either need to be stored, sold, given away or otherwise disposed of in
short order. Then where are the savings?

Patriarch

"Don" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> "Larry Jaques"> wrote
>> Patriarch> spake:
>>>Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To
>>>cut turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast
>>>track fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully
>>>(yeah, right) put in, with the micro adjustable feature.
>>
>> So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.
>
> Is the drift angle consistent?
> If not, what would cause it to change?
>

Use, wear, abuse, cutting green wood for turning blanks, the phase angle of
the moon, the autocompensation feature of the saw for operator
attitude/patience. It's not that big a deal, and easily adjusted back to
the line scribed on the table. If it hasn't been worn/cleaned off.

It's no big deal. Only for resaw is this bandsaw ever asked to be a real
precision cutting tool, and then, not so much recently. It's a Jet 16, and
it's really a 'tweener saw. Bigger than a 14", but not really much bigger.
It's certainly not the Laguna or MiniMax I had in my plans, when the wife
decided she needed a new quilting machine. And she did, so the bandsaw
purchase was scaled back to more rational levels.

Patriarch

Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>
>>Re: HF: Larry, I know it's your favorite toy store, but the place
>>makes my skin crawl. I already have a lathe whose limitations were
>>reached almost immediately. I don't want to buy another loser, at any
>>price. It would either need to be stored, sold, given away or
>>otherwise disposed of in short order. Then where are the savings?
>
> Got crowbars? Get off your butt, refi the house, and go buy a nice
> little Nova or Oneway. See if I care. ;)
>

Thank you for permission, kind sir. The wife agrees, too. Nice how that
works out.

The consensus among my analog woodworking friends seems to be that the
sweet spot for those who primarily turn, and not much else, that the
Powermatic 3520a is a great lathe for the substantial money. Most of these
folks sell at least some of their turned work.

For those who also do cabinetry, boxes and furniture, and so need more room
in the shop, the Nova 3000 family seems to fit quite well. Capable,
flexible, and more modest in size, but expandable as needed.

I don't forsee needing the Powermatic. Or anything in the Oneway range.

Patriarch

My bandsaw fence consists of a piece of 2x4, jointed square, with a
piece of 3/4" birch plywood screwed onto the 2" face. It gets clamped
to the table. Seems to work fine.

"patrick conroy" <[email protected]> writes:

> Did the Iturra brushes come installed? If not, how was installation?

I installed the Iturra brushes on my Jet, and it was VERY easy.
Like - a minute or two. I think I needed to drill a small pilot hole.
Well worth the $6.

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$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

[email protected] writes:

> Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
> 15".

I compared the old Duginski FastTrak fence and the Kreg, and bought
the Kreg. The Kreg can be adjusted for blade drift, and for alignment
to the blade. It can also be used in a "low-profile" position when
you need the guides close to the able surface, and near the Fence.

Installation needed an allen wrench with an odd size, which I didn't have.
Other than that, it was trivial.

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$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

Jim...

Yes... I guess patience is a virtue and will be rewarded. I started
out thinking about a 12" BS, ordered a Hitachi at Lowes that never
showed up until yesterday! I of course had canceled. I missed out on
two locals, a sweet Delta platinum that was also loaded and a nice Jet
that was on eBay (local) where I was outbid in the last 3 seconds by
$5. So I decided to wait, posted a WTB on woodnet, and had two
offers, one for a Delta and a one for the Jet.

The minute I saw the Jet I said yes.

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 12:20:34 GMT, "Jim Bailey"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Mike - was that a local deal you picked up ?
>
>jim

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 10:35:50 -0600, the inscrutable Patriarch
<[email protected]> spake:

>There is a story, possibly apocryphal, of the Japanese master, who re-honed
>his plane blade after each, nearly perfect cut.

A Zen anal-retentive? What a curious combo! ;)


>I am after a different operating plan.

Grok that. We all want to sharpen once and work from then on without
ever having to hone again. Unfortunately, nature has a different idea.


>Oh, and back to the topic which originally spawned this thread: To cut
>turning blanks on the bandsaw, I have to remove parts of the Fast track
>fence anyhow, losing whatever drift adjustment I'd carefully (yeah, right)
>put in, with the micro adjustable feature.

So scribe the drift angle into the top. It'll reset more quickly.


>Re: HF: Larry, I know it's your favorite toy store, but the place makes my
>skin crawl. I already have a lathe whose limitations were reached almost
>immediately. I don't want to buy another loser, at any price. It would
>either need to be stored, sold, given away or otherwise disposed of in
>short order. Then where are the savings?

Got crowbars? Get off your butt, refi the house, and go buy a nice
little Nova or Oneway. See if I care. ;)

--
Put some color in your cheeks: Garden Naked!
------
www.diversify.com Colorful Website Development

Well, I used to like the one made by Woodpeck.com, but they said they
were redesigning it and took it off the market...that was a couple of
years ago! My close second choice is the the fence made by
Mulecab.com.

Layne
ps, usual disclaimers apply.

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 08:31:31 -0500, [email protected] wrote:

>I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
>including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
>and the only thing I need is a fence.
>
>So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
>Delta Universal, and what else? Even though I don't see a lot of
>resawing down the road, I do like the idea of a T-Slot fence that can
>mount sacrificial boards or the resaw bump. Rockler has a full 24"
>table and fence setup for the same price as the Kreig.
>
>Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
>15".
>
>Mike

Mike - was that a local deal you picked up ?

jim

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Pat...
>
> Yes, Jet listened to the complaints and they tweaked this model good.
> It has a easy to use tension release lever, cast iron wheels, 1¼ HP
> motor, and a 4" standard dust port.
>
> The package deal I bought came with a mobile base, an Iturra tension
> spring, the 6" factory riser installed, and the Iturra brush
> installed. On top of that I got five new timberwolf blades with it,
> so I have a full range of blades right up to 3/4", and wheel shims in
> case I need them.
>
> It runs real nice, but I may put a link belt on it just to make it
> even smoother. So you can see... the only thing I could put on it is
> a magnetic light and a fence... but we'll see what the consensus is.
> I think I'd rather buy a fence and use it, than spend a weekend making
> one plus spending the money on the track.
>
> Mike
>
> On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 16:37:16 GMT, "patrick conroy"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>

"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> And if I had the $100 back I spent on the parts of that kit, I'd use the
c-
> clamp and jointed stick approach mentioned earlier. It isn't bad at all,
> but it is no better, in my somewhat limited experience.

Be careful!
Ya' know - logic like that just might stall the US Economy! :)

I rarely use the band saw fence. You might just as well clamp a
straight edge to the table. Often, I found that using the fence does
not guarantee a straight cut on the band saw.

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 08:31:31 -0500, [email protected] wrote:

>I just bought a like-new Jet 14" BS JWBS-14X loaded with everything
>including Iturra Spring/Wheel Brush, 5 Timberwolf blades, a 6" riser,
>and the only thing I need is a fence.
>
>So other than the OEM Jet fence, there's the Kreig, the Mule, the
>Delta Universal, and what else? Even though I don't see a lot of
>resawing down the road, I do like the idea of a T-Slot fence that can
>mount sacrificial boards or the resaw bump. Rockler has a full 24"
>table and fence setup for the same price as the Kreig.
>
>Just wondered if there are any opinions. The Cast iron table is 15" X
>15".
>
>Mike