Lazarus Long <[email protected]> wrote:
> What would you guys use - satin Waterlox or Behlen's rockhard tabletop
> varnish?
Given the amount of information you've provided, the only real answer
can be: "it depends".
:-)
Lazarus Long <[email protected]> wrote:
> Yeah, you're right. This is a 3' x 5' kitchen table. Daily use.
> Lots of clean up.
I'm almost done finishing my new white oak kitchen table with Waterlox
Original (medium sheen). I did weeks of book and internet reading on
finishes and decided that Waterlox seemed to have a good blend of
durability, repairability, ease of application and "non-plastic"-looking
appearance. It purportedly can be rubbed out to a high gloss or rubbed
back to a matte finish after it has fully cured.
It's my understanding that any of the poly varnishes might produce a
harder finish, but fixing future scratches or chips will be
significantly more difficult than with Waterlox (or any other finish in
its category).
Flexner's book compares the two types; perhaps you can get it from the
library. If not, it's a wonderful value for $12.
Certainly other folks here have more direct experience than I, but so
far I'm pleased that my decision to go the Waterlox route is turning out
nicely.
If you have not already done so, a Google search of both web and
newsgroups will turn up lots of info and opinions.
Hydrocote Resistane
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Lazarus Long" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What would you guys use - satin Waterlox or Behlen's rockhard tabletop
> varnish?
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 23:05:50 -0500, [email protected] (Ladd Morse)
wrote:
>Lazarus Long <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>> Yeah, you're right. This is a 3' x 5' kitchen table. Daily use.
>> Lots of clean up.
>
>
>I'm almost done finishing my new white oak kitchen table with Waterlox
>Original (medium sheen). I did weeks of book and internet reading on
>finishes and decided that Waterlox seemed to have a good blend of
>durability, repairability, ease of application and "non-plastic"-looking
>appearance. It purportedly can be rubbed out to a high gloss or rubbed
>back to a matte finish after it has fully cured.
>
>It's my understanding that any of the poly varnishes might produce a
>harder finish, but fixing future scratches or chips will be
>significantly more difficult than with Waterlox (or any other finish in
>its category).
>
>Flexner's book compares the two types; perhaps you can get it from the
>library. If not, it's a wonderful value for $12.
>
>Certainly other folks here have more direct experience than I, but so
>far I'm pleased that my decision to go the Waterlox route is turning out
>nicely.
>
>If you have not already done so, a Google search of both web and
>newsgroups will turn up lots of info and opinions.
Yep. Lot's of opinions. Thanks for your help.
On Thu, 27 Nov 2003 22:35:24 -0500, [email protected] (Ladd Morse)
wrote:
>Lazarus Long <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> What would you guys use - satin Waterlox or Behlen's rockhard tabletop
>> varnish?
>
>Given the amount of information you've provided, the only real answer
>can be: "it depends".
>
>:-)
Yeah, you're right. This is a 3' x 5' kitchen table. Daily use.
Lots of clean up.
In article <[email protected]>,
Lazarus Long <[email protected]> wrote:
>What would you guys use - satin Waterlox or Behlen's rockhard tabletop
>varnish?
No.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 17:01:12 GMT, [email protected] (Lawrence
Wasserman) wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>Lazarus Long <[email protected]> wrote:
>>What would you guys use - satin Waterlox or Behlen's rockhard tabletop
>>varnish?
>
>No.
What do you mean, "no". Could you elaborate please?