On Dec 22, 3:19=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I wrote:
> > Is this a "show" truck or a "work" truck?
>
> > If this is a "work" truck, forget it.
>
> > If this is a "show" truck, I'd use white oak and seal it with
> > Epifanes
> > marine poly on an annual basis.
>
> ------------------------------------------------
>
> "rlz" wrote:
>
> It's just to give the truck a different look. =A0I'm going to make it so
> the rails are removable, in the cases where I need to get a load of
> rock or mulch. =A0I usually just haul plywood and lumber for DIY
> projects around the house,
> ------------------------------------------------
> You basically are treating rails as "show".
>
> Epifanes should do a good job.
>
> It a marine item.
>
> Jamestown Distributors by mail, West Marine locally.
>
> Lew
Thanks Lew for the info. Living a mile up here in Denver in the Rocky
Mountains., getting Marine items locally is a little difficult...LOL
"rlz" wrote:
> I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup
> truck. They will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here
> in Colorado. (freezing temps as well as 100+ heat). I'm trying to
> decide what type of finish would be best to keep them looking good
> for years to come. Any suggestions? Robin
------------------------------------------------
Is this a "show" truck or a "work" truck?
If this is a "work" truck, forget it.
If this is a "show" truck, I'd use white oak and seal it with Epifanes
marine poly on an annual basis.
Have fun.
Lew
I wrote:
> Is this a "show" truck or a "work" truck?
>
> If this is a "work" truck, forget it.
>
> If this is a "show" truck, I'd use white oak and seal it with
> Epifanes
> marine poly on an annual basis.
------------------------------------------------
"rlz" wrote:
It's just to give the truck a different look. I'm going to make it so
the rails are removable, in the cases where I need to get a load of
rock or mulch. I usually just haul plywood and lumber for DIY
projects around the house,
------------------------------------------------
You basically are treating rails as "show".
Epifanes should do a good job.
It a marine item.
Jamestown Distributors by mail, West Marine locally.
Lew
On Saturday, December 22, 2012 3:21:30 PM UTC-6, rlz wrote:
> > > I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup
>=20
> > > truck. They will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here
>=20
> > > in Colorado.=20
Most of the time? Why, if they are removable? =20
>=20
> It's just to give the truck a different look. I'm going to make it so
>=20
> the rails are removable, in the cases where I need to get a load of
>=20
> rock or mulch.=20
Store them, from the weather, when not being used.
My grandfather made tall side rails for his '54 chevy truck, for hauling li=
vestock.... common, long ago. He'd remove them when not in use. No finish=
on them and they lasted for years. If I'm not mistaken, those side rails =
may still be in the barn, at the old homestead.=20
Using that truck side-rail idea, I made a cart, with removable side rails a=
nd a chain-latch tail gate (like the old pickups' tail gates), for Mom to c=
onveniently tote/display some of her flowers/flower pots. Those side rails=
(unfinished) lasted for years, also. *The floor of the cart needed yearly =
repair, for being wet most of the time. http://www.flickr.com/photos/43836=
144@N04/8299844073/in/photostream
Sonny
On Friday, December 21, 2012 9:48:05 AM UTC-8, rlz wrote:
> I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup truck. The=
y will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here in Colorado. (free=
zing temps as well as 100+ heat). I'm trying to decide what type of finish =
would be best to keep them looking good for years to come. Any suggestions?=
Robin
You can use any varnish that is called Spar Varnish. This is made for boats=
and has UV inhibitors and some elastic properties that help it hold up "lo=
nger". It may seem unintuitive but use just one or two thin coats. Then mai=
ntain it once a year, just light sanding to smooth out any cracking areas, =
a light scuff scanding over all and another thin recoat. If this is Red Oak=
, it will fade to white in the sun regardless of UV protection so you shoul=
d stain it first with at least what they call "Natural" color stain which i=
s just barely a color but will keep it from fading.
If you want to go bullet proof fiberglass it. Use fiberglass cloth and no-b=
lush epoxy to glass it out. The cloth goes 100% clear and the no-blush epox=
y makes sure you don't get any haze in the epoxy. You have to varnish over =
this as well to protect from the sun. This is how wood boats, like ChrisCra=
ft are done. I think it is called a "Bright Wood" finish. Only problem is i=
f this is a working truck, the glass will get dinged up eventually and it i=
s a bit of a bogger repair.
On Dec 21, 1:32=A0pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> > On Friday, December 21, 2012 9:48:05 AM UTC-8, rlz wrote:
> >> I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup
> >> truck. They will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here
> >> in Colorado. (freezing temps as well as 100+ heat). I'm trying to
> >> decide what type of finish would be best to keep them looking good
> >> for years to come. Any suggestions? Robin
>
> > You can use any varnish that is called Spar Varnish. This is made for
> > boats and has UV inhibitors and some elastic properties that help it
> > hold up "longer". It may seem unintuitive but use just one or two
> > thin coats. Then maintain it once a year, just light sanding to
> > smooth out any cracking areas, a light scuff scanding over all and
> > another thin recoat. If this is Red Oak, it will fade to white in the
> > sun regardless of UV protection so you should stain it first with at
> > least what they call "Natural" color stain which is just barely a
> > color but will keep it from fading.
>
> > If you want to go bullet proof fiberglass it. Use fiberglass cloth
> > and no-blush epoxy to glass it out. The cloth goes 100% clear and the
> > no-blush epoxy makes sure you don't get any haze in the epoxy. You
> > have to varnish over this as well to protect from the sun. This is
> > how wood boats, like ChrisCraft are done. I think it is called a
> > "Bright Wood" finish. Only problem is if this is a working truck, the
> > glass will get dinged up eventually and it is a bit of a bogger
> > repair.
>
> In boating, "bright" just means clear coat, usually varnish. =A0Glossy cl=
ear.
>
> Don't know how well solid wood does with epoxy and glass, doesn't do well
> with polyester and glass, doubt epoxy would do much better.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> Winters getting colder? =A0Tired of the rat race?
> Maybe just ready for a change? =A0Check it out...http://www.floridaloghou=
se.net- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks for the replies. It is red oak, and I am planing on staining
it to give it a slightly darker color. I was thinking of using
varnish, but I wasn't sure how well it would stand up.
Robin
On Dec 21, 8:35=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "rlz" wrote:
> > I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup
> > truck. They will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here
> > in Colorado. (freezing temps as well as 100+ heat). I'm trying to
> > decide what type of finish would be best to keep them looking good
> > for years to come. Any suggestions? Robin
>
> ------------------------------------------------
> Is this a "show" truck or a "work" truck?
>
> If this is a "work" truck, forget it.
>
> If this is a "show" truck, I'd use white oak and seal it with Epifanes
> marine poly on an annual basis.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
It's just to give the truck a different look. I'm going to make it so
the rails are removable, in the cases where I need to get a load of
rock or mulch. I usually just haul plywood and lumber for DIY
projects around the house,
Robin
On 12/21/12 11:48 AM, rlz wrote:
> I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup truck.
> They will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here in
> Colorado. (freezing temps as well as 100+ heat). I'm trying to
> decide what type of finish would be best to keep them looking good for
> years to come.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Robin
>
Chrome plated steel. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/21/2012 11:48 AM, rlz wrote:
> I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup truck.
> They will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here in
> Colorado. (freezing temps as well as 100+ heat). I'm trying to
> decide what type of finish would be best to keep them looking good for
> years to come.
>
> Any suggestions?
Hopefully _not_ red oak...
There's not much that will last long, certainly, other than perhaps one
of the dipping clear epoxies or the like (and I'm not sure how well they
would stand up to the UV).
Frankly, you would be better off w/ softwood and paint in all likelihood
if it is going to be wood and not garaged.
--
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Friday, December 21, 2012 9:48:05 AM UTC-8, rlz wrote:
>> I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup
>> truck. They will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here
>> in Colorado. (freezing temps as well as 100+ heat). I'm trying to
>> decide what type of finish would be best to keep them looking good
>> for years to come. Any suggestions? Robin
>
> You can use any varnish that is called Spar Varnish. This is made for
> boats and has UV inhibitors and some elastic properties that help it
> hold up "longer". It may seem unintuitive but use just one or two
> thin coats. Then maintain it once a year, just light sanding to
> smooth out any cracking areas, a light scuff scanding over all and
> another thin recoat. If this is Red Oak, it will fade to white in the
> sun regardless of UV protection so you should stain it first with at
> least what they call "Natural" color stain which is just barely a
> color but will keep it from fading.
>
> If you want to go bullet proof fiberglass it. Use fiberglass cloth
> and no-blush epoxy to glass it out. The cloth goes 100% clear and the
> no-blush epoxy makes sure you don't get any haze in the epoxy. You
> have to varnish over this as well to protect from the sun. This is
> how wood boats, like ChrisCraft are done. I think it is called a
> "Bright Wood" finish. Only problem is if this is a working truck, the
> glass will get dinged up eventually and it is a bit of a bogger
> repair.
In boating, "bright" just means clear coat, usually varnish. Glossy clear.
Don't know how well solid wood does with epoxy and glass, doesn't do well
with polyester and glass, doubt epoxy would do much better.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 12/21/2012 4:58 PM, rlz wrote:
> On Dec 21, 1:32 pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>>> On Friday, December 21, 2012 9:48:05 AM UTC-8, rlz wrote:
>>>> I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup
>>>> truck. They will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here
>>>> in Colorado. (freezing temps as well as 100+ heat). I'm trying to
>>>> decide what type of finish would be best to keep them looking good
>>>> for years to come. Any suggestions? Robin
>>
>>> You can use any varnish that is called Spar Varnish. This is made for
>>> boats and has UV inhibitors and some elastic properties that help it
>>> hold up "longer". It may seem unintuitive but use just one or two
>>> thin coats. Then maintain it once a year, just light sanding to
>>> smooth out any cracking areas, a light scuff scanding over all and
>>> another thin recoat. If this is Red Oak, it will fade to white in the
>>> sun regardless of UV protection so you should stain it first with at
>>> least what they call "Natural" color stain which is just barely a
>>> color but will keep it from fading.
>>
>>> If you want to go bullet proof fiberglass it. Use fiberglass cloth
>>> and no-blush epoxy to glass it out. The cloth goes 100% clear and the
>>> no-blush epoxy makes sure you don't get any haze in the epoxy. You
>>> have to varnish over this as well to protect from the sun. This is
>>> how wood boats, like ChrisCraft are done. I think it is called a
>>> "Bright Wood" finish. Only problem is if this is a working truck, the
>>> glass will get dinged up eventually and it is a bit of a bogger
>>> repair.
>>
>> In boating, "bright" just means clear coat, usually varnish. Glossy clear.
>>
>> Don't know how well solid wood does with epoxy and glass, doesn't do well
>> with polyester and glass, doubt epoxy would do much better.
>>
>> --
>>
>> dadiOH
>> ____________________________
>>
>> Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
>> Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...http://www.floridaloghouse.net- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Thanks for the replies. It is red oak, and I am planing on staining
> it to give it a slightly darker color. I was thinking of using
> varnish, but I wasn't sure how well it would stand up.
>
> Robin
>
And like a boat you will have to refinish it periodically.
I don't know if it is available but have you consider teak or mahogany
and use oil on it? It would be a little more expensive, but then each
time you wax the truck, a little oil on the wood work would keep it
looking nice for many years. Wiping the boards with teak oil
occasionally would be a lot easier that sanding down or stripping the
varnish and re varnishing.
I don't know if you could use teak oil on oak but it may be worth
investigating.
On 12/21/2012 11:48 AM, rlz wrote:
> I am building a set of oak side-rails for the bed of my pickup truck.
> They will exposed to extreme weather most of the time, here in
> Colorado. (freezing temps as well as 100+ heat). I'm trying to
> decide what type of finish would be best to keep them looking good for
> years to come.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Robin
>
I vote for an oil finish. Think about an oil soaked wood deck on a
trailer or some such where motor oil dripped and soaked in.
Kinda time for the mantra:
Flood coat, wipe off excess after the initial coating and do this:
once an hour for a day
once a day for week
once a week for month
once a month for a year
once a year forever
--
___________________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven
On 12/23/2012 6:50 AM, rlz wrote:
> On Dec 22, 3:19 pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I wrote:
>>> Is this a "show" truck or a "work" truck?
>>
>>> If this is a "work" truck, forget it.
>>
>>> If this is a "show" truck, I'd use white oak and seal it with
>>> Epifanes
>>> marine poly on an annual basis.
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------
>>
>> "rlz" wrote:
>>
>> It's just to give the truck a different look. I'm going to make it so
>> the rails are removable, in the cases where I need to get a load of
>> rock or mulch. I usually just haul plywood and lumber for DIY
>> projects around the house,
>> ------------------------------------------------
>> You basically are treating rails as "show".
>>
>> Epifanes should do a good job.
>>
>> It a marine item.
>>
>> Jamestown Distributors by mail, West Marine locally.
>>
>> Lew
>
> Thanks Lew for the info. Living a mile up here in Denver in the Rocky
> Mountains., getting Marine items locally is a little difficult...
--
White oak is for exterior use. Red oak for interior.
Any varnish or lacquer type finish will require redoing
As to not finding marine supplies:
Denver.com: West Marine
www.denver.com/west-marine-b9073991
West Marine. 6148 E County Line Rd Littleton, CO 80126 district:
Littleton. (303) 221-4656 | Website · Edit business info · Advertise |
List Your Business | List
___________________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven