Hi all,
just moved from the states to Borneo, and slowly unpacking my tools and
setting up shop. Running into a problem with the saw, which Grizzly
state is 18A, and needs a 20A circuit. We've been told that we're
unlikely to be able to get anything more than a 15A circuit put in
here, and that only for the AC unit in what will be the workshop.
However my plan was to have an extra socket put in on the AC circuit
and just turn off the AC when I want to use the saw.
Now the starter switch, on the saw is rated 220v, 2200w. Now in my
book, that equals 10A, and starting load would be the highest I would
think. If so, I could run it on a 15A circuit, with a couple of amps
to spare.
If not, I may be stuffed with not being able to use my saw here.
Could anyone who is more knowlegable about electrickery please comment
on this. Am I really likely to blow out a 15A circuit?
Cheers,
J.
Somebody wrote:
> > I finally was able to get the spec for the G1023S. It's a 3 H.P. motor
> > drawing 18 amps at 220V.
You need a 2P-30A c'bkr for this motor.
Feed with #10AWG copper wire with 105C insulation.
Have fun.
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
No, it's very unusual to get that sort of thing here. I'm in Borneo,
and the local camp housing is limited on the amount of current each
house can draw, and on how much each section of the camp can draw.
We can't just call an electrician in and have work done, it has to be
someone from the company works department, and the guidelines say no
circuit over 15 amps. I'm going to try and pursue it further, but
wanted to check first whether I really needed to.
What puzzled me was that the starter switch has a plaque on it saying
it's rated 200v, 2200w, which only works out at 10A. The manual states
that it needs 18 amps, hence the confustion.
J.
Justin Peer wrote:
> Sounds right scary to me. I don't think I'll go that direction. I've
> seen things like that at the local saw mill, and I steered well clear
> of it.
Interesting. Most of my ideas aren't so original after all. ;-)
If it wasn't for the shipping costs I'd be willing to swap motors with
you... <g> Mine runs fine on a 15A circuit.
-- Mark
JP wrote:
<snipped>
> Now the starter switch, on the saw is rated 220v, 2200w. Now in my
> book, that equals 10A, and starting load would be the highest I would
> think. If so, I could run it on a 15A circuit, with a couple of amps
> to spare.
I tried to look at the spec for the saw on Grizzly's web site but get an
error. From the information you've provided I'd say the 18 amp rating is
at 110 volts. 10 amps at 220 volts would equate to 20 amps at 110 volts.
If you are talking about a 15 amp breaker on a 220 volt line you should be
fine as the saw will draw about 9 amps. If it's a 15 amp breaker on a 110
volt line the saw will be tripping the breaker.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Nova wrote:
> JP wrote:
>
> <snipped>
>
> > Now the starter switch, on the saw is rated 220v, 2200w. Now in my
> > book, that equals 10A, and starting load would be the highest I would
> > think. If so, I could run it on a 15A circuit, with a couple of amps
> > to spare.
>
> I tried to look at the spec for the saw on Grizzly's web site but get an
> error. From the information you've provided I'd say the 18 amp rating is
> at 110 volts. 10 amps at 220 volts would equate to 20 amps at 110 volts.
> If you are talking about a 15 amp breaker on a 220 volt line you should be
> fine as the saw will draw about 9 amps. If it's a 15 amp breaker on a 110
> volt line the saw will be tripping the breaker.
I finally was able to get the spec for the G1023S. It's a 3 H.P. motor
drawing 18 amps at 220V. A 15 amp/220 volt breaker would be insufficient.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Mark Jerde wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>
> > If you're going to all the trouble to hook up a gas engine to spin it
> > up then why not just run it off a 3 horsepower gas engine?
>
> One of many points I didn't mention.... ;-)
>
> I've actually thought a lot about these things, since my "dream shop" would
> be located where electrical power is known to be tempermental.
>
> -- Mark
What about purchasing a 220V A/C generator? If you have frequent power
failures it might come in handy for things other than running the table saw.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
"Nova" <noSPAMvasys@adelphia.net> wrote in message
> I finally was able to get the spec for the G1023S. It's a 3 H.P. motor
> drawing 18 amps at 220V. A 15 amp/220 volt breaker would be insufficient.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
What I don't understand is the comment that he could not get a 20A circuit.
Must be talking to the wrong people as he can get most anything he wants as
long as the main power and box are up to it.
Ed
Actually it may work with a normal thermal circuit breaker rated for 15
amps. The rating on a circuit breaker is not the limit of the current
going thru it. It should be able to handle 2 times the current rating
for some period of time, ususally 5 seconds. On 220 that should get
you up and running and the current draw below 15 amps. The 18 amp
rating is only when the motor is developing the full 3 hp. There is
some current used just in running but it would not be much over 4 or 5
amps.
Tom
Nova wrote:
> Nova wrote:
>
>
>>JP wrote:
>>
>><snipped>
>
> I finally was able to get the spec for the G1023S. It's a 3 H.P. motor
> drawing 18 amps at 220V. A 15 amp/220 volt breaker would be insufficient.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
>
>
"Justin Peer" <justin@jkath.removethisbit.com> wrote in message
news:2j35puFsmcieU1@uni-berlin.de...
> No, it's very unusual to get that sort of thing here. I'm in Borneo,
> and the local camp housing is limited on the amount of current each
> house can draw, and on how much each section of the camp can draw.
>
> We can't just call an electrician in and have work done, it has to be
> someone from the company works department, and the guidelines say no
> circuit over 15 amps. I'm going to try and pursue it further, but
> wanted to check first whether I really needed to.
That makes more sense now. Are you willing to share the saw? If so,
perhaps you can convince someone that it is in the best interests of the
community to have the saw running, either at your house or some other
location.
>
> What puzzled me was that the starter switch has a plaque on it saying
> it's rated 200v, 2200w, which only works out at 10A. The manual states
> that it needs 18 amps, hence the confustion.
I don't know how it is set up. Sometimes a low voltage relay is switching
the power for a high voltage motor.
Justin Peer wrote:
> No, it's very unusual to get that sort of thing here. I'm in Borneo,
> and the local camp housing is limited on the amount of current each
> house can draw, and on how much each section of the camp can draw.
>
> We can't just call an electrician in and have work done, it has to be
> someone from the company works department, and the guidelines say no
> circuit over 15 amps. I'm going to try and pursue it further, but
> wanted to check first whether I really needed to.
Before I did stuff with the wiring the lights in my shop would dim when I
fired up the 120v G1022. If I fogot and left the shop vac turned on the
breaker would trip every time. However, once the saw was up to speed I
could run the saw, vac & lights no problems.
If you can figure out another way to get the blade & motor spinning about
1/2 to 2/3rds of full speed before you turn on the power maybe 15 amps is
enough to _run_ the saw if it doesn't have to _start_ from zero RPM. I have
used a lot of belt-driven farm equipment and I'm reasonably confident I
could put a 2nd pulley on my G1022's motor and use a horizontal-shaft 1 to 2
HP Briggs & Stratton gas motor to do the initial spin up. I don't know
about the G1023 though. The motor enclosed in the cabinet makes it more
difficult.
Or maybe someone knows if this is a bad idea electrically, e.g., "Spinning
the motor like that with no complete circuit causes a flux capacitence
buildup that has been shown to cause cancer in lab rats." I dunno...
-- Mark
In article <2j35puFsmcieU1@uni-berlin.de>,
Justin Peer <justin@jkath.removethisbit.com> wrote:
> ...
>What puzzled me was that the starter switch has a plaque on it saying
>it's rated 200v, 2200w, which only works out at 10A.
^^^220?
All the switch ratings I can remember seeing have given Volts and
Amps - or HP for motors. It sounds a bit strange to have a Wattage
rating.
>The manual states that it needs 18 amps, hence the confustion.
Does it qualify this as being at 220V?
Another possiblity is whether the "starter switch" is the on/off
switch. Or does it just handle part of the current, e.g. switching out
the capacity for a "capacitor start" motor?
--
--henry schaffer
hes _AT_ ncsu _DOT_ edu
Mark Jerde wrote:
> Justin Peer wrote:
>> No, it's very unusual to get that sort of thing here. I'm in Borneo,
>> and the local camp housing is limited on the amount of current each
>> house can draw, and on how much each section of the camp can draw.
>>
>> We can't just call an electrician in and have work done, it has to be
>> someone from the company works department, and the guidelines say no
>> circuit over 15 amps. I'm going to try and pursue it further, but
>> wanted to check first whether I really needed to.
>
> Before I did stuff with the wiring the lights in my shop would dim when I
> fired up the 120v G1022. If I fogot and left the shop vac turned on the
> breaker would trip every time. However, once the saw was up to speed I
> could run the saw, vac & lights no problems.
>
> If you can figure out another way to get the blade & motor spinning about
> 1/2 to 2/3rds of full speed before you turn on the power maybe 15 amps is
> enough to _run_ the saw if it doesn't have to _start_ from zero RPM. I
> have used a lot of belt-driven farm equipment and I'm reasonably confident
> I could put a 2nd pulley on my G1022's motor and use a horizontal-shaft 1
> to 2
> HP Briggs & Stratton gas motor to do the initial spin up. I don't know
> about the G1023 though. The motor enclosed in the cabinet makes it more
> difficult.
>
> Or maybe someone knows if this is a bad idea electrically, e.g., "Spinning
> the motor like that with no complete circuit causes a flux capacitence
> buildup that has been shown to cause cancer in lab rats." I dunno...
If you're going to all the trouble to hook up a gas engine to spin it up
then why not just run it off a 3 horsepower gas engine?
> -- Mark
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
J. Clarke wrote:
> If you're going to all the trouble to hook up a gas engine to spin it
> up then why not just run it off a 3 horsepower gas engine?
One of many points I didn't mention.... ;-)
I've actually thought a lot about these things, since my "dream shop" would
be located where electrical power is known to be tempermental.
-- Mark