Adjustments on an old Sears RAS, and table?

There's probably a locking pin somewhere. You might try pulling _up_ on
that knob on the side... Tom

Toller wrote:
(snip)
>
> 1) How does the yoke pivot (for ripping) work? There is a large chrome
> lever, but moving that doesn't free it up. Is there something else, or is
> it just stuck. I don't plan on ever ripping on it, but would like to know
> how to.
>
> 2) There is a rod coming out of the left side, going up past the arm, with a
> plastic knob on the end of it. Turning it doesn't seem to do anything.
> What is that for?

Same answer for both questions. After you move the chrome lever (called
the Yoke Clamp), pull UP on the mystery knob. It will latch back into
place for in-rip and out-rip positions of the carriage.
>
> 3) The table is partially missing, so I guess I will have to make a fence.
> I really only want it to do cross cuts. Any advice on making a fence for
> that? (assume I know absolutely nothing about RASs.

Do you have both of the clamps? These are basically thumb screws which
clamp the fence (along with some filler pieces) to the fixed table. I
have the same saw with all of the original parts. The fence is nothing
more than a straight piece of 1x2 clamped against the table. Once you
see how this goes, you'll quickly see several ways to improve the fence
to your liking.
>
> 4) In researching this, I found the darn thing has been recalled! It cannot
> be fixed, so Emerson will take the saw part back and send me $100. That
> would give me a $15 profit, but I kinda wanted the saw and it seems to work
> fine. Since I don't plan on ever ripping with it(that is what the recall
> was for) the defect doesn't seem to matter. Should I take the $15 and look
> for another? Is whats left after sending the saw part back of any use, or
> is it just scrap then?

Don't bother with the recall. That's a nice saw and it's as safe as any
RAS for crosscutting if it's used properly. I've ripped on this saw and
it's not a scary operation, but it's not nearly as easy as a tablesaw.
If you have the space, it's real damn handy to have the RAS always
waiting around for a perfect 90 degree crosscut. I even move mine for
miters and back to 90 with decent results, but I'll admit that my work
of late does not require absolute perfection. It just saves time if I
don't have to change a setup on the table saw for a simple crosscut.

The model number is 113.29440. Go to http://www3.sears.com/ and you can
still order parts for it. The exploded view will help you figure out
the fence and table. You can probably order the manual as well or
download it from the OWWM site. If not, I'll mail you a copy. It has
detailed instructions on adjustment etc.

Tom

"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I picked up an old Sear RAS at an estate auction. I know it is old because
>it came with 4 steel blades. It is the same model as:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Sears-Craftsman-Radial-Arm-Saw_W0QQitemZ4405658283QQcategoryZ632QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> Anyhow, there are a few things I can't figure out about it.
>
Go get the model number. Someone undoubtedly has the same one.

Or, start here. http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID=222

> 85 Bucks is not a great price BUT by no means a bad price since you
> can always send it back under the recall for 100 bucks...
>
I saw one advertised today for $40 that was subject to recall, and thought
about buying it just to send back; but decided there had to be something
unethical about that.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Toller wrote:
> (snip)
>>
>> 1) How does the yoke pivot (for ripping) work? There is a large chrome
>> lever, but moving that doesn't free it up. Is there something else, or
>> is
>> it just stuck. I don't plan on ever ripping on it, but would like to
>> know
>> how to.
>>
>> 2) There is a rod coming out of the left side, going up past the arm,
>> with a
>> plastic knob on the end of it. Turning it doesn't seem to do anything.
>> What is that for?
>
> Same answer for both questions. After you move the chrome lever (called
> the Yoke Clamp), pull UP on the mystery knob. It will latch back into
> place for in-rip and out-rip positions of the carriage.
>>
>> 3) The table is partially missing, so I guess I will have to make a
>> fence.
>> I really only want it to do cross cuts. Any advice on making a fence for
>> that? (assume I know absolutely nothing about RASs.
>
> Do you have both of the clamps? These are basically thumb screws which
> clamp the fence (along with some filler pieces) to the fixed table. I
> have the same saw with all of the original parts. The fence is nothing
> more than a straight piece of 1x2 clamped against the table. Once you
> see how this goes, you'll quickly see several ways to improve the fence
> to your liking.
>>
>> 4) In researching this, I found the darn thing has been recalled! It
>> cannot
>> be fixed, so Emerson will take the saw part back and send me $100. That
>> would give me a $15 profit, but I kinda wanted the saw and it seems to
>> work
>> fine. Since I don't plan on ever ripping with it(that is what the recall
>> was for) the defect doesn't seem to matter. Should I take the $15 and
>> look
>> for another? Is whats left after sending the saw part back of any use,
>> or
>> is it just scrap then?
>
> Don't bother with the recall. That's a nice saw and it's as safe as any
> RAS for crosscutting if it's used properly. I've ripped on this saw and
> it's not a scary operation, but it's not nearly as easy as a tablesaw.
> If you have the space, it's real damn handy to have the RAS always
> waiting around for a perfect 90 degree crosscut. I even move mine for
> miters and back to 90 with decent results, but I'll admit that my work
> of late does not require absolute perfection. It just saves time if I
> don't have to change a setup on the table saw for a simple crosscut.
>
> The model number is 113.29440. Go to http://www3.sears.com/ and you can
> still order parts for it. The exploded view will help you figure out
> the fence and table. You can probably order the manual as well or
> download it from the OWWM site. If not, I'll mail you a copy. It has
> detailed instructions on adjustment etc.
>
That did it, thanks. Emerson will send me a manual.

>>
>> 4) In researching this, I found the darn thing has been recalled! It cannot
>> be fixed, so Emerson will take the saw part back and send me $100. That
>> would give me a $15 profit, but I kinda wanted the saw and it seems to work
>> fine. Since I don't plan on ever ripping with it(that is what the recall
>> was for) the defect doesn't seem to matter. Should I take the $15 and look
>> for another? Is whats left after sending the saw part back of any use, or
>> is it just scrap then?
>
>Don't bother with the recall. That's a nice saw and it's as safe as any
>RAS for crosscutting if it's used properly. I've ripped on this saw and
>it's not a scary operation, but it's not nearly as easy as a tablesaw.
>If you have the space, it's real damn handy to have the RAS always
>waiting around for a perfect 90 degree crosscut. I even move mine for
>miters and back to 90 with decent results, but I'll admit that my work
>of late does not require absolute perfection. It just saves time if I
>don't have to change a setup on the table saw for a simple crosscut.

==================
I agree aboiut Not taking advantage of the RECALL...

There is absolutely nothing wrong with this RAS... The recall was to
IMPROVE the design of the blade guard (Saftey Issue ..in the eyes of
the Legal Boys at Emerson I guess...)...

I have not ripped anything with my RAS in over 30 years...just not as
easy as using my Tablesaw... and I have not moved the arm to cut a
miter in almost as long... I just made a few adjustable jigs that
attach to the fence to produce 45 and 22 1/2 degree cuts....my most
common miters...

I use my RAS 99 percent of the time as a cut off saw...and yes I do
have to adjust it every year or two to a perfect 90 degree cut but its
not a bid deal..

I topped my "stock" table with two pieces of " 1/4 in good looking
plywood...that I coated with semi gloss poly and insert a 2 inch wide
sacrificial piece of hardboard between these 2 pieces of plywood...
saves the table from getting cut up...and when it does I just slip in
another 2 inch wide piece of hardwood... Plywood was added to my saw
in the early 70's and still works and looks like new...

85 Bucks is not a great price BUT by no means a bad price since you
can always send it back under the recall for 100 bucks...

Now spend another 100 and buy a GREAT Blade ...

Enjoy
Bob G.