Sc

Sonny

12/04/2010 6:32 PM

Another Planer Question

I've been looking for a 15" planer for a long time.

There's a used Grizzly 1021 available, locally, for about $500.... I
haven't inspected it, yet. I will definitely be planing 12" - 15"
boards. Did a search for reviews: Seems the consensus about this
planer is that the 2 hp motor is too weak for moderate/frequent use on
wide boards.

I've almost convinced myself to get a new G0453 or comparable, instead
of continuing to look for an adequatly powered used planer. Listings
for the G0453 seem to indicate the blades (~$50) and the blade setter
(~$100) don't come with the machine... have to purchase them
separately, or am I wrong?


Is 2 hp too weak for planing wide boards?

Is there a better 15" planer, $1200 and under, than the G0453?

Sonny


This topic has 14 replies

LH

"Lew Hodgett"

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 9:22 PM


"Chris Friesen" wrote:

> Hypothetically, if we propose an inrush of 10x steady state (which
> should be higher than the actual inrush--how long will a 15A breaker
> let
> you draw 150A before it pops?)
<snip>
------------------------------------------
Locked rotor inrush is in the (10-12)*(FLA) neighborhood for either a
single or three phase
motor, thus 150A inrush would be an expected minimum.

Chances of getting a 1HP/120V/1PH motor started on a 1P-15A c'bkr are
slim and none.

The dynamics of motor inrush current are such that you need a big pipe
for a short period of time,
thus trying to monkey fuck around with small conductors (#12AWG &
#14AWG) as well as
peanut c'bkrs is a total waste of time.

Just for funzies, try ripping some 8/4 hard maple on a T/S equipped
with a 1HP or 1-1/2HP motor
wired for 120VAC service and get back to me.

Lew



hf

hex

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

12/04/2010 8:35 PM

On Apr 12, 8:32=A0pm, Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've been looking for a 15" planer for a long time.
>
> There's a used Grizzly 1021 available, locally, for about $500.... I
> haven't inspected it, yet. =A0I will definitely be planing 12" - 15"
> boards. =A0Did a search for reviews: =A0Seems the consensus about this
> planer is that the 2 hp motor is too weak for moderate/frequent use on
> wide boards.
>
> I've almost convinced myself to get a new G0453 or comparable, instead
> of continuing to look for an adequatly powered used planer. =A0Listings
> for the G0453 seem to indicate the blades (~$50) and the blade setter
> (~$100) don't come with the machine... have to purchase them
> separately, or am I wrong?
>
> Is 2 hp too weak for planing wide boards?
>
> Is there a better 15" planer, $1200 and under, than the G0453?
>
> Sonny

My dad has a precursor to the G0453 (no recollection of the model
number) -- undermounted 3HP motor, stationary planer, two speed
mechanical feed, straight blades with no fancy helical carbide
inserts. 3HP will take a pretty decent swipe a 13" board (about the
widest I've ever put through it). But 10-12" hard maple makes it
grunt even on a fairly light pass with relatively fresh blades. It's
wicked noisy. I'd have to get a heck of a deal before going down to 2
HP.

One thing that you might do is keep an eye out for an old Woodmaster
or Foley-Belsaw planer molder -- I picked up a 12" FB with 5HP motor
for about $250 a couple of years ago on CL. I figured it was a no-
brainer and I could probably part it out if I missed something when I
looked it over or even if I had to dump a couple hundred into new feed
rollers etc I'd come out ok. I have only ever used the FB as a planer
and have never cut molding with it. It has been a decent planer for
the 1500 to 2000 sf of red and white oak I've put through it. I've
never pushed it to the point of abuse, but it's never bogged down
cleaning up 11" wide white oak glue ups or running two 5" boards side
by side. I inherited my late brother's 5HP 12" Woodmaster which I
use for molding, gang rip, and as a drum sander -- but I've never
planed with it. Big moldings knives will make it sweat, as will
aggressive sanding. FB has a one speed chain and sprocket feed; the
Woodmaster has continuously variable speed feed. All that being
said, how important is 15" compared to 12" -- even if you have 15"
stock will you really be finishing it whole or ripping it down? The
only big advantage I find for wider blades is that you can go a little
longer between changes by using different sections of the cutters.
Sharpening is wash since my local guy charges by length.

hex
-30-

LH

"Lew Hodgett"

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 7:55 AM


"dpb" wrote:

> NO!!! Big (but widespread) misconception here...
>
> Only if your wiring is too small for the 120V amperage and you have
> significant voltage drop. The supply voltage doesn't make any
> difference on a dual-voltage motor as to the power; it merely
> reduces the current draw.

------------------------------------------
Sorry but it DOES make a difference.

The total power consumed consists of the power consumed my the motor +
the power consumed by the conductors feeding the motor.

The power consumed by the conductors = I^2R.

Thus for a given set of conductors, the resistance is fixed while the
power loss of the conductors is proportional to current^2.

Reduce the current by 1/2, you reduce the conductor losses by 4, thus
making more power available at the motor terminals.

Doubling the voltage at the motor terminals has multiple benefits.

Lew


Nn

Nova

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 1:05 PM

Lew Hodgett wrote:

> "dpb" wrote:
>
>
>>NO!!! Big (but widespread) misconception here...
>>
>>Only if your wiring is too small for the 120V amperage and you have
>>significant voltage drop. The supply voltage doesn't make any
>>difference on a dual-voltage motor as to the power; it merely
>>reduces the current draw.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------
> Sorry but it DOES make a difference.
>
> The total power consumed consists of the power consumed my the motor +
> the power consumed by the conductors feeding the motor.
>
> The power consumed by the conductors = I^2R.
>
> Thus for a given set of conductors, the resistance is fixed while the
> power loss of the conductors is proportional to current^2.
>
> Reduce the current by 1/2, you reduce the conductor losses by 4, thus
> making more power available at the motor terminals.
>
> Doubling the voltage at the motor terminals has multiple benefits.
>
> Lew
>
>
>


Wiring for 220 also helps to keep half of the house lights from dimming
when the motor starts up.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]

LH

"Lew Hodgett"

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 12:48 PM


"Ron S" wrote:

Lew,

You are absolutely correct, but it is irrelevant.

<snip the steady state math>

Inrush.

Think dimming lights.

Lew


Nn

Nova

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 4:40 PM

Chris Friesen wrote:
<snip>
>
> Arguably the most significant difference is that the load is spread
> evenly over both legs so the lights on one leg don't dim due to the
> sudden load.
>
> Chris

... not to mention the damage it can cause to sensitive electronic
equipment that don't like "brown outs".

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]

ss

spaco

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 9:06 AM

I have an older version of about the same planer that you found
available locally. It is also a 2hp model, made in Taiwan, I think.
I use it only occasionally and have planed 12 inch boards, max. But I
have had it for over 20 years, so I have some experience with the breed.
One one hand, it works for me. I plane mostly hard woods, like maple,
and oak. I'd say it all depends on how much you are going to use it
and how much cranking it up and down you want to do to get a light
enough cut on the wider boards.

But, here's another thought:
If the money is really important, why not consider getting that planer
and then upgrading to a 3 hp motor? My planer came either way. The
instructions tell me that they added a little 1/16" inch shim to prevent
the used form taking too deep a cut with the 2 hp model, so upgrading
shouldn't be an issue.
Also, mine came wired for 120 volts even though the motor can go
either 120 or 240. I am just too lazy to rewire to 240, but I am sure
that would give me more ummph.
You would probably have to upgrade the starter, too, but I think HF
and maybe Grizzly or someone like that has reasonably priced stuff.

May biggest concern, (if that planer is like mine):
-Make sure that the power feed knob is all the way out (there's a
detent). I didn't pay attention that once and it allowed the drive
gears to be in partial mesh. Since those gears aren't hardened, they got
chewed up a little bit then they wouldn't engage. I tore down the drive
assy, cleaned up the gears, etc. and reassembled it. That was about 5
years ago and it has been working fine ever since.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------

Sonny wrote:

> I've been looking for a 15" planer for a long time.
>
> There's a used Grizzly 1021 available, locally, for about $500.... I
> haven't inspected it, yet. I will definitely be planing 12" - 15"
> boards. Did a search for reviews: Seems the consensus about this
> planer is that the 2 hp motor is too weak for moderate/frequent use on
> wide boards.
>
> I've almost convinced myself to get a new G0453 or comparable, instead
> of continuing to look for an adequatly powered used planer. Listings
> for the G0453 seem to indicate the blades (~$50) and the blade setter
> (~$100) don't come with the machine... have to purchase them
> separately, or am I wrong?
>
>
> Is 2 hp too weak for planing wide boards?
>
> Is there a better 15" planer, $1200 and under, than the G0453?
>
> Sonny

RS

Ron S

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 8:35 AM

On Apr 13, 10:55=A0am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "dpb" wrote:
> > NO!!! =A0Big (but widespread) misconception here...
>
> > Only if your wiring is too small for the 120V amperage and you have
> > significant voltage drop. =A0The supply voltage doesn't make any
> > difference on a dual-voltage motor as to the power; it merely
> > reduces the current draw.
>
> ------------------------------------------
> Sorry but it DOES make a difference.
>
> The total power consumed consists of the power consumed my the motor +
> the power consumed by the conductors feeding the motor.
>
> The power consumed by the conductors =3D I^2R.
>
> Thus for a given set of conductors, the resistance is fixed while the
> power loss of the conductors is proportional to current^2.
>
> Reduce the current by 1/2, you reduce the conductor losses by 4, thus
> making more power available at the motor terminals.
>
> Doubling the voltage at the motor terminals has multiple benefits.
>
> Lew

Lew,

You are absolutely correct, but it is irrelevant.

Assuming 12 gauge wire, the resistance is 1.619 ohm per 1,000 foot.
(http://www.interfacebus.com/Copper_Wire_AWG_SIze.html) Assuming a 50
foot run, the resistance of the wire will be .08095 ohm. Assuming the
120v motor draws 15 amps, the power draw (P=3DIE) will be 120 x 15 =3D
1,800watts. At 240 volts the power draw will be 240 x 7.5 =3D 1,800
watts.

The power loss on the 120v circuit will be (I^2R) 15*15*.08095 =3D
18.21375 watts or 1% of total.
The power loss on the 240v circuit will be (I^2R) 7.5*7.5*.08095 =3D
4.55344 watts or .25% of total

The difference between using 120v vs 240v is 18.21375-4.55344 =3D
13.66031 watts or .7589%

So you are absolutely right that there will be more power loss by
using 120v vs 240v but a 1,800 watt motor is not going to notice a
reduction in power of three quarters of 1 percent of a watt. The user
certainly will not notice a difference. Especially when you consider
the tolerances of the motors and power delivery and wire resistances
and lengths will all probably add up to way more than 3/4%.

CF

Chris Friesen

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 2:00 PM

On 04/13/2010 01:48 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Ron S" wrote:
>
> Lew,
>
> You are absolutely correct, but it is irrelevant.
>
> <snip the steady state math>
>
> Inrush.

Hypothetically, if we propose an inrush of 10x steady state (which
should be higher than the actual inrush--how long will a 15A breaker let
you draw 150A before it pops?) then the conductor losses in the supply
conductors drops from about 10% of the overall current draw to about
2.5% of the overall current draw. This would make 7.5% more power
available at the motor terminals. This isn't significant in my books.

In the real world, the actual difference will be less than that.

Arguably the most significant difference is that the load is spread
evenly over both legs so the lights on one leg don't dim due to the
sudden load.

Chris

Sb

"SonomaProducts.com"

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 9:14 AM

> Is there a better 15" planer, $1200 and under, than the G0453?
>
> Sonny

Well... if you don't mind used, it looks like you could easily get a
15" Powermatic with 5hp motor for less than $1200. I took a quick look
on Exfactory but ebay and craigs might give up some gold also. My
1960's PMs are still working fine so you shou;d be OK

http://www.exfactory.com/equipment.aspx?catId=PL&pos=1338&Sort=spnetprice

ST

Steve Turner

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

12/04/2010 9:45 PM

On 4/12/2010 8:32 PM, Sonny wrote:
> I've been looking for a 15" planer for a long time.
>
> There's a used Grizzly 1021 available, locally, for about $500.... I
> haven't inspected it, yet. I will definitely be planing 12" - 15"
> boards. Did a search for reviews: Seems the consensus about this
> planer is that the 2 hp motor is too weak for moderate/frequent use on
> wide boards.
>
> I've almost convinced myself to get a new G0453 or comparable, instead
> of continuing to look for an adequatly powered used planer. Listings
> for the G0453 seem to indicate the blades (~$50) and the blade setter
> (~$100) don't come with the machine... have to purchase them
> separately, or am I wrong?

The G0453 comes with knives installed and already adjusted, and the knife
adjustment gauge is also included with the machine.

> Is 2 hp too weak for planing wide boards?

That's a big "it depends", but in all likelihood: Yes. "2HP" isn't very
meaningful without the specifications such as amperage, motor RPM, cutterhead
RPM, feed rate, etc., but in general I'd say that if you truly need 15"
capacity you should be looking at 220V machines with 3HP induction motors like
the G0453.

> Is there a better 15" planer, $1200 and under, than the G0453?

If there is I didn't find one. It's built like a tank and has power to spare.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

dn

dpb

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 9:23 AM

spaco wrote:
...

> Also, mine came wired for 120 volts even though the motor can go
> either 120 or 240. I am just too lazy to rewire to 240, but I am sure
> that would give me more ummph.

...

NO!!! Big (but widespread) misconception here...

Only if your wiring is too small for the 120V amperage and you have
significant voltage drop. The supply voltage doesn't make any
difference on a dual-voltage motor as to the power; it merely reduces
the current draw.

--

Kl

Kevin

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

14/04/2010 2:07 AM

On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:22:30 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Just for funzies, try ripping some 8/4 hard maple on a T/S equipped
>with a 1HP or 1-1/2HP motor
>wired for 120VAC service and get back to me.

I've done it no problem with my 24T thin kerf.

-Kevin

Ll

"Leon"

in reply to Sonny on 12/04/2010 6:32 PM

13/04/2010 8:01 PM


"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
snip

>
> Wiring for 220 also helps to keep half of the house lights from dimming
> when the motor starts up.


LOL,,, if half the lights in your house dim when you start a 110 volt 2 hp
motor you have other problems. I can see understand some diming on the same
circuit but the whole half diming should not happen.

Last November I started up my cabinet saw... it stalled and I lost half the
electricy service in my home. That turned out to be a big problem, one of
the under ground leads coming up to the meter shorted out.


You’ve reached the end of replies