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I have some unused wood flooring. Would a 2 foot or so section be ok to
use as an auxillary rip fence?
Also my saw is a cheap delta benchtop model. I got the manual out to
see how to check blade alignment. It said to use a T square in the
miter fence grove and measue the distance to one of the teeth. Then
rotate that tooth from the back to the front and measure. I did this at
least 10 times with varying degrees of sucess. (It is hard to be
consistant). It looks as if the back of the saw is 1/16 inch larger gap
than the front.
The manual saif to loosen 4 phillips screws on the table and then grab
the blade to put it in the right position. I went to loosen these
screws and they would not buge and it started to wear out the phillips
head. Even after penetrating lube. Is this worth the 16th of an inch?
My other thought is to turn over the saw and with vice grips from
underneath loosen the bolts, maybe replacing them with allen head bolts
or something.
Is there an easier way to line up the saw blade than just "grabbing it"
after loossening these screws? Also, if I dont do any work with the
miter fence and mainly do ripping, is it necessary to adjust it so it
is perfectly parallel with the miter slot? I mean it seems easy to
align the rip fence to the blade, just measure the front side of the
sawblade tooth from the fence and adjust the rip fence so that the rear
side of a saw blade tooth matches this number.
Also, would just a piece of angle iron clamped to the saw table suffice
as a fence?
Thanks for your help!
you know what an impact driver is. You should find one for $10 or less.
Why let this problem be a problem? You just hit it at the end with a
hammer, and it spins the bit as it forces it into the head. Don't strip it
in the first place. can get you out of that situation too.
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"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I have some unused wood flooring. Would a 2 foot or so section
> be ok to
> use as an auxillary rip fence?
Should be OK.
>
> Also my saw is a cheap delta benchtop model. I got the manual
> out to
> see how to check blade alignment. It said to use a T square in
> the
> miter fence grove and measue the distance to one of the teeth.
> Then
> rotate that tooth from the back to the front and measure. I did
> this at
> least 10 times with varying degrees of sucess. (It is hard to
> be
> consistant). It looks as if the back of the saw is 1/16 inch
> larger gap
> than the front.
>
> The manual saif to loosen 4 phillips screws on the table and
> then grab
> the blade to put it in the right position. I went to loosen
> these
> screws and they would not buge and it started to wear out the
> phillips
> head. Even after penetrating lube. Is this worth the 16th of an
> inch?
That depends on you. Does it cut what you need? If you don't
have any problems, then it's not bothering you. Technically, if
it's really 1/16, that's a lot of misalignment, but ... if it's
working OK for you, then ...
> My other thought is to turn over the saw and with vice grips
> from
> underneath loosen the bolts, maybe replacing them with allen
> head bolts
> or something.
Bad idea, IMO. You may cause so much damage to the screws they'd
never back out. Have you tried Liquid Wrench & following th
einstructions on the can?
I've used vise grips that way before, but I also used a die to
put the threads back so the bolt would come out without further
damage to the threads it mates with. They still came out hard,
but they came out without breaking or damaging the mating
threads.
>
> Is there an easier way to line up the saw blade than just
> "grabbing it"
> after loossening these screws?
No idea; depends on the saw. Possibly the motor mounts?
Also, if I dont do any work with the
> miter fence and mainly do ripping, is it necessary to adjust it
> so it
> is perfectly parallel with the miter slot?
Technically, yes, but if you can work around it, well ...
I mean it seems easy to
> align the rip fence to the blade, just measure the front side
> of the
> sawblade tooth from the fence and adjust the rip fence so that
> the rear
> side of a saw blade tooth matches this number.
That's what I would do.
>
> Also, would just a piece of angle iron clamped to the saw table
> suffice
> as a fence?
Yes, but you might want a piece of sacrificial wood attached to
it. If the blade ever comes in contact with it ... the steel
will win.
HTH
Pop
>
> Thanks for your help!
>