My Makita 14.4 volt cordless drill broke last night. Model 6228DWE.
Received "free" with the purchase of a Makita SCMS a few years ago.
It was brand new and unused for the most part. Got it out for the
first time a few months ago to drill some holes and drive screws when
installing a screen door. Last night I was driving 1 5/8" drywall
screws through some 1x4s into the ceiling joists in the basement. I
was on about the 10th screw when the chuck stopped turning if there
was any pressure at all on the chuck/bit. As if the clutch was the
most sensitive possible. Seemed like the shaft with the chuck on the
end just no longer engaged the chuck with any pressure. I know the
chuck is screwed onto the shaft so its not like the shaft could stop
engaging the chuck. Chuck still spins if you pull the trigger. But
if you put your finger against the spinning chuck, the chuck stops,
and the motor keeps on spinning. I would guess the shaft itself is
broken and friction allows the two pieces to stay engaged if there is
no pressure on the chuck/bit. But if there is any resistance on the
chuck, the two pieces come apart. Just a guess since I haven't taken
the drill apart.
Anyone had any experience contacting Makita on how to get a drill
fixed or replaced? Whom to contact and where? What results did you
get? The drill is long past its 1 year warranty, if that even ever
applied to a free promotional item.
I did have some Makita tool use joy last night. The rotary hammer
drill was able to drill holes for Tapcon screws with ease in the
concrete basement walls. First time I've used the rotary hammer drill
since I bought it a year or so ago.
[email protected] wrote:
> Anyone had any experience contacting Makita on how to get a drill
> fixed or replaced?
Yep, they are down the street about a mile.
Did a good job.
YMMV
Lew
Look for a loosw screw in the chuck.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:aad998f5-d145-4860-8ed0-21a96973e9c2@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> My Makita 14.4 volt cordless drill broke last night. Model 6228DWE.
> Received "free" with the purchase of a Makita SCMS a few years ago.
> It was brand new and unused for the most part. Got it out for the
> first time a few months ago to drill some holes and drive screws when
> installing a screen door. Last night I was driving 1 5/8" drywall
> screws through some 1x4s into the ceiling joists in the basement. I
> was on about the 10th screw when the chuck stopped turning if there
> was any pressure at all on the chuck/bit. As if the clutch was the
> most sensitive possible. Seemed like the shaft with the chuck on the
> end just no longer engaged the chuck with any pressure. I know the
> chuck is screwed onto the shaft so its not like the shaft could stop
> engaging the chuck. Chuck still spins if you pull the trigger. But
> if you put your finger against the spinning chuck, the chuck stops,
> and the motor keeps on spinning. I would guess the shaft itself is
> broken and friction allows the two pieces to stay engaged if there is
> no pressure on the chuck/bit. But if there is any resistance on the
> chuck, the two pieces come apart. Just a guess since I haven't taken
> the drill apart.
>
> Anyone had any experience contacting Makita on how to get a drill
> fixed or replaced? Whom to contact and where? What results did you
> get? The drill is long past its 1 year warranty, if that even ever
> applied to a free promotional item.
>
> I did have some Makita tool use joy last night. The rotary hammer
> drill was able to drill holes for Tapcon screws with ease in the
> concrete basement walls. First time I've used the rotary hammer drill
> since I bought it a year or so ago.
I did mention this drill was free with the purchase of a Makita SCMS.
And I received a free angle grinder and diamond blade when I bought a
Makita rotary hammer drill a year ago. The free drill, free angle
grinder, and the paid for rotary hammer drill were all made in China.
No surprise. I think the SCMS is Japan. And my older Makita belt
sander is Japan.
All of the Makita tools work well (except for the in between gear
problem of this thread) and are comfortable to use. I like Makita
tools. But I don't really expect much longevity from any of the non
Japan tools. And now days I would not be surprised if 90+% of Makita
tools are non Japan. If I was more than an occasssional weekend tool
user, I would not consider buying Makita.
On Feb 13, 2:59=A0am, "John" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Had a Makita Angle Grinder that simply wore out its brushes , parts =A0too=
k
> months to come in and very expensive.
> Soon after that armature burnt out. You guessed it, the replacement armatu=
re
> would have cost more
> than a brand new grinder in a carrying case with a few disks thrown in for=
> good measure.
> Went and bought a Bosch in protest.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0Cheers
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0John<[email protected]> wrot=
e in message
>
> news:7ae1ae30-da1e-44fe-a60f-9156888c7483@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
> On Feb 8, 7:12 pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > If you have an adjustable gearbox (one setting for torque and another fo=
r
> > speed), check to make sure that it isn't stuck in the middle. Milwukee
> > drills do this when the switch is halfway between 1 and 2. If not, look =
at
> > the chuck screw.
>
> > Allen<[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I'll give you credit for being a genius. =A0Looked up the local Makita
> service center via the link posted in an earlier post. =A0One was very
> close to my work. =A0Went there and took it to the service area. =A0Guy
> comments it has not been used much. =A0True. =A0He started running it and
> saw it was broke like I said. =A0He looked in the chuck to be sure a
> screw was in there. =A0Agreed there was. =A0Then he flipped the gear
> switch back and forth while running it and fixed it. =A0Said it was
> stuck between gears. =A0After it broke I never moved the gear switch
> since I had not moved it while using it. =A0Still not sure how it can
> come out of gear while its running and the switch is not touched. =A0But
> the drill works just fine again. =A0And while at the contractor store I
> saw a safety vest I liked so will go back in a week when they get more
> sizes in. =A0So it was a worthwhile trip.
>
>
>
>
>
> >news:aad998f5-d145-4860-8ed0-21a96973e9c2@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...=
>
> > > My Makita 14.4 volt cordless drill broke last night. Model 6228DWE.
> > > Received "free" with the purchase of a Makita SCMS a few years ago.
> > > It was brand new and unused for the most part. Got it out for the
> > > first time a few months ago to drill some holes and drive screws when
> > > installing a screen door. Last night I was driving 1 5/8" drywall
> > > screws through some 1x4s into the ceiling joists in the basement. I
> > > was on about the 10th screw when the chuck stopped turning if there
> > > was any pressure at all on the chuck/bit. As if the clutch was the
> > > most sensitive possible. Seemed like the shaft with the chuck on the
> > > end just no longer engaged the chuck with any pressure. I know the
> > > chuck is screwed onto the shaft so its not like the shaft could stop
> > > engaging the chuck. Chuck still spins if you pull the trigger. But
> > > if you put your finger against the spinning chuck, the chuck stops,
> > > and the motor keeps on spinning. I would guess the shaft itself is
> > > broken and friction allows the two pieces to stay engaged if there is
> > > no pressure on the chuck/bit. But if there is any resistance on the
> > > chuck, the two pieces come apart. Just a guess since I haven't taken
> > > the drill apart.
>
> > > Anyone had any experience contacting Makita on how to get a drill
> > > fixed or replaced? Whom to contact and where? What results did you
> > > get? The drill is long past its 1 year warranty, if that even ever
> > > applied to a free promotional item.
>
> > > I did have some Makita tool use joy last night. The rotary hammer
> > > drill was able to drill holes for Tapcon screws with ease in the
> > > concrete basement walls. First time I've used the rotary hammer drill
> > > since I bought it a year or so ago.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
If you have an adjustable gearbox (one setting for torque and another for
speed), check to make sure that it isn't stuck in the middle. Milwukee
drills do this when the switch is halfway between 1 and 2. If not, look at
the chuck screw.
Allen
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:aad998f5-d145-4860-8ed0-21a96973e9c2@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> My Makita 14.4 volt cordless drill broke last night. Model 6228DWE.
> Received "free" with the purchase of a Makita SCMS a few years ago.
> It was brand new and unused for the most part. Got it out for the
> first time a few months ago to drill some holes and drive screws when
> installing a screen door. Last night I was driving 1 5/8" drywall
> screws through some 1x4s into the ceiling joists in the basement. I
> was on about the 10th screw when the chuck stopped turning if there
> was any pressure at all on the chuck/bit. As if the clutch was the
> most sensitive possible. Seemed like the shaft with the chuck on the
> end just no longer engaged the chuck with any pressure. I know the
> chuck is screwed onto the shaft so its not like the shaft could stop
> engaging the chuck. Chuck still spins if you pull the trigger. But
> if you put your finger against the spinning chuck, the chuck stops,
> and the motor keeps on spinning. I would guess the shaft itself is
> broken and friction allows the two pieces to stay engaged if there is
> no pressure on the chuck/bit. But if there is any resistance on the
> chuck, the two pieces come apart. Just a guess since I haven't taken
> the drill apart.
>
> Anyone had any experience contacting Makita on how to get a drill
> fixed or replaced? Whom to contact and where? What results did you
> get? The drill is long past its 1 year warranty, if that even ever
> applied to a free promotional item.
>
> I did have some Makita tool use joy last night. The rotary hammer
> drill was able to drill holes for Tapcon screws with ease in the
> concrete basement walls. First time I've used the rotary hammer drill
> since I bought it a year or so ago.
On Feb 8, 7:12=A0pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> If you have an adjustable gearbox (one setting for torque and another for
> speed), check to make sure that it isn't stuck in the middle. Milwukee
> drills do this when the switch is halfway between 1 and 2. If not, look at=
> the chuck screw.
>
> Allen<[email protected]> wrote in message
I'll give you credit for being a genius. Looked up the local Makita
service center via the link posted in an earlier post. One was very
close to my work. Went there and took it to the service area. Guy
comments it has not been used much. True. He started running it and
saw it was broke like I said. He looked in the chuck to be sure a
screw was in there. Agreed there was. Then he flipped the gear
switch back and forth while running it and fixed it. Said it was
stuck between gears. After it broke I never moved the gear switch
since I had not moved it while using it. Still not sure how it can
come out of gear while its running and the switch is not touched. But
the drill works just fine again. And while at the contractor store I
saw a safety vest I liked so will go back in a week when they get more
sizes in. So it was a worthwhile trip.
>
> news:aad998f5-d145-4860-8ed0-21a96973e9c2@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > My Makita 14.4 volt cordless drill broke last night. =A0Model 6228DWE.
> > Received "free" with the purchase of a Makita SCMS a few years ago.
> > It was brand new and unused for the most part. =A0Got it out for the
> > first time a few months ago to drill some holes and drive screws when
> > installing a screen door. =A0Last night I was driving 1 5/8" drywall
> > screws through some 1x4s into the ceiling joists in the basement. =A0I
> > was on about the 10th screw when the chuck stopped turning if there
> > was any pressure at all on the chuck/bit. =A0As if the clutch was the
> > most sensitive possible. =A0Seemed like the shaft with the chuck on the
> > end just no longer engaged the chuck with any pressure. =A0I know the
> > chuck is screwed onto the shaft so its not like the shaft could stop
> > engaging the chuck. =A0Chuck still spins if you pull the trigger. =A0But=
> > if you put your finger against the spinning chuck, the chuck stops,
> > and the motor keeps on spinning. =A0I would guess the shaft itself is
> > broken and friction allows the two pieces to stay engaged if there is
> > no pressure on the chuck/bit. =A0But if there is any resistance on the
> > chuck, the two pieces come apart. =A0Just a guess since I haven't taken
> > the drill apart.
>
> > Anyone had any experience contacting Makita on how to get a drill
> > fixed or replaced? =A0Whom to contact and where? =A0What results did you=
> > get? =A0The drill is long past its 1 year warranty, if that even ever
> > applied to a free promotional item.
>
> > I did have some Makita tool use joy last night. =A0The rotary hammer
> > drill was able to drill holes for Tapcon screws with ease in the
> > concrete basement walls. =A0First time I've used the rotary hammer drill=
> > since I bought it a year or so ago.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
[email protected] wrote:
>
> Anyone had any experience contacting Makita on how to get a drill
> fixed or replaced? Whom to contact and where? What results did you
> get? The drill is long past its 1 year warranty, if that even ever
> applied to a free promotional item.
>
See:
http://www.makita.com/serv_search.php
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a6a62c0e-9ad3-4f7b-b3f2-4958214ab9fe@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
> > My Makita 14.4 volt cordless drill broke last night. Model 6228DWE.
> > Received "free" with the purchase of a Makita SCMS a few years ago.
Make sure the reverse switch isn't in the
neutral position.
Smitty
IIRC the neutral position on the switch also locks the switch to prevent
accidental battery run down.
Had a Makita Angle Grinder that simply wore out its brushes , parts took
months to come in and very expensive.
Soon after that armature burnt out. You guessed it, the replacement armature
would have cost more
than a brand new grinder in a carrying case with a few disks thrown in for
good measure.
Went and bought a Bosch in protest.
Cheers
John
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:7ae1ae30-da1e-44fe-a60f-9156888c7483@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 8, 7:12 pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> If you have an adjustable gearbox (one setting for torque and another for
> speed), check to make sure that it isn't stuck in the middle. Milwukee
> drills do this when the switch is halfway between 1 and 2. If not, look at
> the chuck screw.
>
> Allen<[email protected]> wrote in message
I'll give you credit for being a genius. Looked up the local Makita
service center via the link posted in an earlier post. One was very
close to my work. Went there and took it to the service area. Guy
comments it has not been used much. True. He started running it and
saw it was broke like I said. He looked in the chuck to be sure a
screw was in there. Agreed there was. Then he flipped the gear
switch back and forth while running it and fixed it. Said it was
stuck between gears. After it broke I never moved the gear switch
since I had not moved it while using it. Still not sure how it can
come out of gear while its running and the switch is not touched. But
the drill works just fine again. And while at the contractor store I
saw a safety vest I liked so will go back in a week when they get more
sizes in. So it was a worthwhile trip.
>
> news:aad998f5-d145-4860-8ed0-21a96973e9c2@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > My Makita 14.4 volt cordless drill broke last night. Model 6228DWE.
> > Received "free" with the purchase of a Makita SCMS a few years ago.
> > It was brand new and unused for the most part. Got it out for the
> > first time a few months ago to drill some holes and drive screws when
> > installing a screen door. Last night I was driving 1 5/8" drywall
> > screws through some 1x4s into the ceiling joists in the basement. I
> > was on about the 10th screw when the chuck stopped turning if there
> > was any pressure at all on the chuck/bit. As if the clutch was the
> > most sensitive possible. Seemed like the shaft with the chuck on the
> > end just no longer engaged the chuck with any pressure. I know the
> > chuck is screwed onto the shaft so its not like the shaft could stop
> > engaging the chuck. Chuck still spins if you pull the trigger. But
> > if you put your finger against the spinning chuck, the chuck stops,
> > and the motor keeps on spinning. I would guess the shaft itself is
> > broken and friction allows the two pieces to stay engaged if there is
> > no pressure on the chuck/bit. But if there is any resistance on the
> > chuck, the two pieces come apart. Just a guess since I haven't taken
> > the drill apart.
>
> > Anyone had any experience contacting Makita on how to get a drill
> > fixed or replaced? Whom to contact and where? What results did you
> > get? The drill is long past its 1 year warranty, if that even ever
> > applied to a free promotional item.
>
> > I did have some Makita tool use joy last night. The rotary hammer
> > drill was able to drill holes for Tapcon screws with ease in the
> > concrete basement walls. First time I've used the rotary hammer drill
> > since I bought it a year or so ago.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -