Having just picked up and old plane, I'm curious what methods are
recommended for cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge, surface rust
and even a spot or two of paint splatter. Mostly I'd like to preserve the
Japanning as best as possible, so I've been reluctant to hit it with steel
wool. Or can I do that with say 4-0 or finer?
FWIW, plane is not collectible, just a nice classic bench plane which I will
actually use.
a
The latest ShopNotes (Issue #72).
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"^" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> One of the wood working mags has an article about DIY electrolisis or
> something like that. According to the before and after pics, it seems to
> work pretty well.
>
>
> "Joel Jacobson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > > ..... I'll probably say screw the japanning, whatever japanning even
is.
> > I have no idea. Some kind of black oxide proceses I'm guessing?
> >
> > The japanning used on metal tools was a paint with an asphaltum base. It
> was
> > baked on and is a good rustproofing coating.
> >
> > You can still get small containers of japanning for refinishing tools.
If
> > anyone is interested, send a message to the newsgroup, and I'll provide
> the
> > address for a source.
> >
> >
>
>
Wed, Oct 29, 2003, 3:29pm [email protected] (AMG) says:
<snip> cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge <snip>
Surprised no one else mentioned it; but, depending on what the
grunge is, you might want to start with a bit of warm water and soap.
JOAT
My aim is to get through life peacefully, with as little interferrnce
from human beings as possible.
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 30 Oct 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
You can use an ultrasonic cleaner. It will, however, take off paint
and plating if you leave the article in long enough.
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:03:15 GMT, "Mike in Mystic"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>If you like working with rusty tools, maybe you can do that. The plane I
>bought wouldn't really be usable without thorough cleaning, a lot of the
>blade adjustment parts aren't smooth, etc. Might as well clean it up
>properly. Honestly, the whole process is pretty easy and I can see why
>anyone wouldn't take the time to do it. As for letting your tools get rusty
>again, I think you're FOS.
AMG wrote:
> Having just picked up and old plane, I'm curious what methods are
> recommended for cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge, surface rust
> and even a spot or two of paint splatter. Mostly I'd like to preserve the
> Japanning as best as possible, so I've been reluctant to hit it with steel
> wool. Or can I do that with say 4-0 or finer?
>
> FWIW, plane is not collectible, just a nice classic bench plane which I will
> actually use.
> a
>
>
Start here -DAGS
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&safe=off&group=rec.woodworking
Some other sites for you
http://www.yesterdaystools.com/tuninga1.htm
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1020
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/flatten.html
Finish here
http://www.hocktools.com/
Kevin
I just ordered and received the issue of Canadian Woodworking that David
Eisan has an article in about restoring hand planes. I even bought an old
hand plane to use it on and emailed David with questions, which he answered
very promptly. I highly recommend it.
In brief, use electrolysis to remove the rust and replate iron on the iron
parts, buff the nickel-plated cap iron and other small metal parts,
re-"japan" the plane (using a special kind of enamel paint), and true up the
iron and chip-breaker, plane sole, etc. for optimal performance.
Here's a link to the article:
http://www.canadianwoodworking.com/issue.php?updateid=27&displaymode=nooptio
ns
--
There are no stupid questions.
There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
"AMG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Having just picked up and old plane, I'm curious what methods are
> recommended for cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge, surface
rust
> and even a spot or two of paint splatter. Mostly I'd like to preserve the
> Japanning as best as possible, so I've been reluctant to hit it with steel
> wool. Or can I do that with say 4-0 or finer?
>
> FWIW, plane is not collectible, just a nice classic bench plane which I
will
> actually use.
> a
>
>
One of the wood working mags has an article about DIY electrolisis or
something like that. According to the before and after pics, it seems to
work pretty well.
"Joel Jacobson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > ..... I'll probably say screw the japanning, whatever japanning even is.
> I have no idea. Some kind of black oxide proceses I'm guessing?
>
> The japanning used on metal tools was a paint with an asphaltum base. It
was
> baked on and is a good rustproofing coating.
>
> You can still get small containers of japanning for refinishing tools. If
> anyone is interested, send a message to the newsgroup, and I'll provide
the
> address for a source.
>
>
Definitely try the Electrolysis. Even if you have to rust something first,
it's a blast to use this method. I just did it to an old rusty plane I
bought a few years ago. The piece of rust came in a box at an auction with
a couple of other planes I really wanted. Heck I couldn't throw the thing
away (Stanley #10), but it wasn't usable. I finally got around to doing the
Electrolysis and it is absolutely amazing how the rust falls off! Try it
just to see the affect.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"AMG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "T." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Wed, Oct 29, 2003, 3:29pm [email protected] (AMG) says:
> > <snip> cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge <snip>
> >
> > Surprised no one else mentioned it; but, depending on what the
> > grunge is, you might want to start with a bit of warm water and soap.
> >
> > JOAT
> > My aim is to get through life peacefully, with as little interferrnce
> > from human beings as possible.
> >
> > Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
> > Web Page Update 30 Oct 2003.
> > Some tunes I like.
> > http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
>
> that's funny actually. the first thing I did was scrub it with a
toothbrush
> and some warm detergent. amazing to see how much crap came off, revealing
> original finishes! this weekend i'm going to try the electrolytic removal
> of some of the rust. unfortunately the japanning is a bit flaky at both
> ends of the body. we'll see what happens to it when i hit it w/12v...
>
>
Or simply clean the sole by rubbing on sandpaper, sharpen the blade, adjust
it and use it.
It is only going to get rusty and painty again...
-Jack
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just ordered and received the issue of Canadian Woodworking that David
> Eisan has an article in about restoring hand planes. I even bought an old
> hand plane to use it on and emailed David with questions, which he
answered
> very promptly. I highly recommend it.
>
> In brief, use electrolysis to remove the rust and replate iron on the iron
> parts, buff the nickel-plated cap iron and other small metal parts,
> re-"japan" the plane (using a special kind of enamel paint), and true up
the
> iron and chip-breaker, plane sole, etc. for optimal performance.
>
> Here's a link to the article:
>
>
http://www.canadianwoodworking.com/issue.php?updateid=27&displaymode=nooptio
> ns
>
>
>
> --
>
> There are no stupid questions.
> There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
>
>
> "AMG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Having just picked up and old plane, I'm curious what methods are
> > recommended for cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge, surface
> rust
> > and even a spot or two of paint splatter. Mostly I'd like to preserve
the
> > Japanning as best as possible, so I've been reluctant to hit it with
steel
> > wool. Or can I do that with say 4-0 or finer?
> >
> > FWIW, plane is not collectible, just a nice classic bench plane which I
> will
> > actually use.
> > a
> >
> >
>
>
I suppose it depends on the amount of rust. If it is leaving red streaks on
your work and hands then by all means clean it. However, not every old plane
needs a complete restoration and new japanning to do good work. One mans
rust is anothers patina. In my opinion, patina does not reduce the
usefulness of the tool.
Red rust or pitting is bad and should be remedied.
You are right, it is mostly tools which are not used that get rusty. Of
course we hear here of any number of people whose table saw tops rust
overnight, so obviously tools do get rusty on occasion.
-Jack "rust never sleeps"
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you like working with rusty tools, maybe you can do that. The plane I
> bought wouldn't really be usable without thorough cleaning, a lot of the
> blade adjustment parts aren't smooth, etc. Might as well clean it up
> properly. Honestly, the whole process is pretty easy and I can see why
> anyone wouldn't take the time to do it. As for letting your tools get
rusty
> again, I think you're FOS.
>
> --
>
> There are no stupid questions.
> There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
>
>
> "JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> > Or simply clean the sole by rubbing on sandpaper, sharpen the blade,
> adjust
> > it and use it.
> > It is only going to get rusty and painty again...
> >
> > -Jack
> >
> > "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I just ordered and received the issue of Canadian Woodworking that
David
> > > Eisan has an article in about restoring hand planes. I even bought an
> old
> > > hand plane to use it on and emailed David with questions, which he
> > answered
> > > very promptly. I highly recommend it.
> > >
> > > In brief, use electrolysis to remove the rust and replate iron on the
> iron
> > > parts, buff the nickel-plated cap iron and other small metal parts,
> > > re-"japan" the plane (using a special kind of enamel paint), and true
up
> > the
> > > iron and chip-breaker, plane sole, etc. for optimal performance.
> > >
> > > Here's a link to the article:
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.canadianwoodworking.com/issue.php?updateid=27&displaymode=nooptio
> > > ns
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > > There are no stupid questions.
> > > There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
> > >
> > >
> > > "AMG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > Having just picked up and old plane, I'm curious what methods are
> > > > recommended for cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge,
> surface
> > > rust
> > > > and even a spot or two of paint splatter. Mostly I'd like to
preserve
> > the
> > > > Japanning as best as possible, so I've been reluctant to hit it with
> > steel
> > > > wool. Or can I do that with say 4-0 or finer?
> > > >
> > > > FWIW, plane is not collectible, just a nice classic bench plane
which
> I
> > > will
> > > > actually use.
> > > > a
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ..... I'll probably say screw the japanning, whatever japanning even is.
I have no idea. Some kind of black oxide proceses I'm guessing?
The japanning used on metal tools was a paint with an asphaltum base. It was
baked on and is a good rustproofing coating.
You can still get small containers of japanning for refinishing tools. If
anyone is interested, send a message to the newsgroup, and I'll provide the
address for a source.
"AMG" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>
> that's funny actually. the first thing I did was scrub it with a toothbrush
> and some warm detergent. amazing to see how much crap came off, revealing
> original finishes! this weekend i'm going to try the electrolytic removal
> of some of the rust. unfortunately the japanning is a bit flaky at both
> ends of the body. we'll see what happens to it when i hit it w/12v...
Flakey Japanning will come off with electrolysis. IME good Japanning
does not come offf with electrolysis unless you leave the tool in the
tank for a long time, like a day or so. I've done that sometimes when
the current was really low and I think it is the caustic nature of the
solution, rather than the electrolysis per se that strips off the finish.
--
FF
That's the one. And boy oh boy. I never knew those little chargers packed
that much walllop!
"Larry C in Auburn, WA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0Smob.49000$mZ5.306777@attbi_s54...
> The latest ShopNotes (Issue #72).
>
> --
> Larry C in Auburn, WA
>
> "^" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > One of the wood working mags has an article about DIY electrolisis or
> > something like that. According to the before and after pics, it seems to
> > work pretty well.
> >
> >
> > "Joel Jacobson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > > ..... I'll probably say screw the japanning, whatever japanning even
> is.
> > > I have no idea. Some kind of black oxide proceses I'm guessing?
> > >
> > > The japanning used on metal tools was a paint with an asphaltum base.
It
> > was
> > > baked on and is a good rustproofing coating.
> > >
> > > You can still get small containers of japanning for refinishing tools.
> If
> > > anyone is interested, send a message to the newsgroup, and I'll
provide
> > the
> > > address for a source.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 15:29:36 -0500, "AMG" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Having just picked up and old plane, I'm curious what methods are
>recommended for cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge, surface rust
>and even a spot or two of paint splatter. Mostly I'd like to preserve the
>Japanning as best as possible, so I've been reluctant to hit it with steel
>wool. Or can I do that with say 4-0 or finer?
>
>FWIW, plane is not collectible, just a nice classic bench plane which I will
>actually use.
>a
>
Kerosene will remove light rust, dirt, and paint from metal parts,
plus protect the tools from future rust. Kerosene is flammable, but
kind to the skin and (in small amounts) non-toxic. Acetone is a bit
more aggressive, but you need plenty of ventilation to use it. I use
#000 steel wool on the wooden parts, apply Johnson wax (to the wooden
parts), and buff.
On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 13:47:55 GMT, "^" <[email protected]> wrote:
>That's the one. And boy oh boy. I never knew those little chargers packed
>that much walllop!
They don't - but this time you've got wet hands, and they're wet with
a conductive salt solution..
With a cut on each hand, and both hands across the two electrodes,
there's a more-than-negligible chance of serious cardiac implications.
Turn it off before you go near it !
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
AMG wrote:
> FWIW, plane is not collectible, just a nice classic bench plane which I
> will actually use.
If I ever come by such a plane, I'll probably say screw the japanning,
whatever japanning even is. I have no idea. Some kind of black oxide
proceses I'm guessing?
Anyway, I finally got around to trying the electrolysis thing as a last
resort way to get a rusted up vise back into service. It takes a bucket of
water, any of various cleaning products (I used Oxy-Clean, but there are
other ways), a chunk of scrap iron and a battery charger. I used a 1 amp
trickle charger, which was none too fast, but it did work eventually.
I was afraid to try it for a long time. Something about water + electricity
put me off. It sure works though. I highly recommend it. I'll definitely
do this again the next time I need to clean up something rusty.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 22:20:19 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>If I ever come by such a plane, I'll probably say screw the japanning,
>whatever japanning even is. I have no idea.
Paint.
It's called Japanning, because of the 18th century furniture trade.
Western furniture in those days was shellaced or spirit varnished (bug
juice in alcohol, or tree-sap in alcohol), not painted, because no-one
had yet invented useful paints. With the far-East trade, particularly
tea from China, lacquered furniture also started to show up. This was
jet black, shiny, and like nothing else we'd seen in the West before.
Before long, there were attempts to copy this finish. One of the first
was "Pontypool ware", iron trays with a shiny black stove-enamelled
finish. Because it was an attempt to reproduce this "Japanese" style,
it was known as japanning.
http://paranoia-towers.com/alchemy/pontypool.htm
I haven't seen retail paint on sale as "Japan" since the '60s, but
it's still sometimes used as a term in obscure trades.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
If you like working with rusty tools, maybe you can do that. The plane I
bought wouldn't really be usable without thorough cleaning, a lot of the
blade adjustment parts aren't smooth, etc. Might as well clean it up
properly. Honestly, the whole process is pretty easy and I can see why
anyone wouldn't take the time to do it. As for letting your tools get rusty
again, I think you're FOS.
--
There are no stupid questions.
There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
"JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Or simply clean the sole by rubbing on sandpaper, sharpen the blade,
adjust
> it and use it.
> It is only going to get rusty and painty again...
>
> -Jack
>
> "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I just ordered and received the issue of Canadian Woodworking that David
> > Eisan has an article in about restoring hand planes. I even bought an
old
> > hand plane to use it on and emailed David with questions, which he
> answered
> > very promptly. I highly recommend it.
> >
> > In brief, use electrolysis to remove the rust and replate iron on the
iron
> > parts, buff the nickel-plated cap iron and other small metal parts,
> > re-"japan" the plane (using a special kind of enamel paint), and true up
> the
> > iron and chip-breaker, plane sole, etc. for optimal performance.
> >
> > Here's a link to the article:
> >
> >
>
http://www.canadianwoodworking.com/issue.php?updateid=27&displaymode=nooptio
> > ns
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > There are no stupid questions.
> > There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
> >
> >
> > "AMG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Having just picked up and old plane, I'm curious what methods are
> > > recommended for cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge,
surface
> > rust
> > > and even a spot or two of paint splatter. Mostly I'd like to preserve
> the
> > > Japanning as best as possible, so I've been reluctant to hit it with
> steel
> > > wool. Or can I do that with say 4-0 or finer?
> > >
> > > FWIW, plane is not collectible, just a nice classic bench plane which
I
> > will
> > > actually use.
> > > a
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 15:29:36 -0500, "AMG" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Having just picked up and old plane, I'm curious what methods are
>recommended for cleaning up
Electrolysis to de-rust it. After a day, solvent or scrape any paint
that remains, then electrolyse again.
It'll loosen japanning after a week or two, but only if it was already
dodgy.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Andy Dingley wrote:
>>If I ever come by such a plane, I'll probably say screw the japanning,
>>whatever japanning even is. I have no idea.
>
> Paint.
> I haven't seen retail paint on sale as "Japan" since the '60s, but
> it's still sometimes used as a term in obscure trades.
Very interesting. I had no idea.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
"Kevin French" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> AMG wrote:
> > Having just picked up and old plane, I'm curious what methods are
> > recommended for cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge, surface
rust
> > and even a spot or two of paint splatter. Mostly I'd like to preserve
the
> > Japanning as best as possible, so I've been reluctant to hit it with
steel
> > wool. Or can I do that with say 4-0 or finer?
> >
> > FWIW, plane is not collectible, just a nice classic bench plane which I
will
> > actually use.
> > a
> >
> >
>
>
> Start here -DAGS
>
> http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&safe=off&group=rec.woodworking
>
> Some other sites for you
>
> http://www.yesterdaystools.com/tuninga1.htm
>
> http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1020
>
> http://www.geocities.com/plybench/flatten.html
>
> Finish here
>
> http://www.hocktools.com/
>
> Kevin
Thanks! Actually, I'd done a couple of searches, but mostly for 'restoring
old tools' etc. All came up fairly thin, or pointed to books avail.
a
"T." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Wed, Oct 29, 2003, 3:29pm [email protected] (AMG) says:
> <snip> cleaning up what appears to be a lot of grunge <snip>
>
> Surprised no one else mentioned it; but, depending on what the
> grunge is, you might want to start with a bit of warm water and soap.
>
> JOAT
> My aim is to get through life peacefully, with as little interferrnce
> from human beings as possible.
>
> Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
> Web Page Update 30 Oct 2003.
> Some tunes I like.
> http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
that's funny actually. the first thing I did was scrub it with a toothbrush
and some warm detergent. amazing to see how much crap came off, revealing
original finishes! this weekend i'm going to try the electrolytic removal
of some of the rust. unfortunately the japanning is a bit flaky at both
ends of the body. we'll see what happens to it when i hit it w/12v...