I have a work surface of 1" particle board top. It's fine for my use
as I do electronics and light mechanical work on it. But, dirt and
grease from parts would tend to get on the top and impossible to get
out, which would make my hands and other objects dirty next time.
So I would like to look into painting few coats of polyurethane to
provide a easier to clean surface.
What product do you recommend for this? It would be nice if it have
temporary resistance to engine oil or maybe brake cleaner as well.
I have heard of the duraseal polyurethane (for floors) any experience
with using this on particle board?
Thanks
[email protected] wrote:
> I have a work surface of 1" particle board top. It's fine for my use
> as I do electronics and light mechanical work on it. But, dirt and
> grease from parts would tend to get on the top and impossible to get
> out, which would make my hands and other objects dirty next time.
>
> So I would like to look into painting few coats of polyurethane to
> provide a easier to clean surface.
>
> What product do you recommend for this? It would be nice if it have
> temporary resistance to engine oil or maybe brake cleaner as well.
>
> I have heard of the duraseal polyurethane (for floors) any experience
> with using this on particle board?
>
> Thanks
MDF is a better choice (maybe that's what you mean ...( Medium Density
Fiber Board) Chip board is a rough finish -- you can see the larger
particles or chips -- and quite soft. Maybe you should get a MDF board
and lay it on top -- glue it, screw it or whatever -- then finish it
wiht a "floor" style varnish finish.
It worked for me.
willr
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
A piece of hard board screwed to the top of the board works well. I
imagine it would be great for electronics. You would not need to finish
it and if it gets damaged from the fire you started working on the
PM78749898 integrated circuit, you could just pull the screws out,
replace the top and keep geeken away(no offense woodworkers are geeks
too) . Particle board really soaks up the finish without much surface
improvement.
My router table top is MDF. I followed Pat Warner's advice and
"dunked" it in Watco. The MDF sucks up Watco like crazy. Once it
dries, you have a pretty wear resistant surface. The top has been used
for several years with no obvious signs of wear.
I would rather use Watco than paint because it is much easier to make
the top have a smooth surface.
Mark
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a work surface of 1" particle board top. It's fine for my use
> as I do electronics and light mechanical work on it. But, dirt and
> grease from parts would tend to get on the top and impossible to get
> out, which would make my hands and other objects dirty next time.
>
> So I would like to look into painting few coats of polyurethane to
> provide a easier to clean surface.
>
> What product do you recommend for this? It would be nice if it have
> temporary resistance to engine oil or maybe brake cleaner as well.
>
> I have heard of the duraseal polyurethane (for floors) any experience
> with using this on particle board?
>
> Thanks
=====>My answer to this problem is to have two workbenches. I have my
"dirty" one in the garage for mechanicing and a sheet of 1/4" ply over my
woodworking bench. If I have something to work on that sorta falls
inbetween, I'll just set up some sawhorses with a piece of 3/4" plywood as a
temporary top. TS top makes a handy workbench and storage area!*G*
Leif
[email protected] wrote:
> I have a work surface of 1" particle board top. It's fine for my use
> as I do electronics and light mechanical work on it. But, dirt and
> grease from parts would tend to get on the top and impossible to get
> out, which would make my hands and other objects dirty next time.
>
> So I would like to look into painting few coats of polyurethane to
> provide a easier to clean surface.
>
> What product do you recommend for this? It would be nice if it have
> temporary resistance to engine oil or maybe brake cleaner as well.
Tile board...cheap, easy and replaceable.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
> Thanks for the reply,
>
> I did not make the top myself, but it is called "engineered wood".. is
> that another word for MDF? It is a rather smooth finish.
Probably. MDF is the same color as cardboard FWIW.
Since there is no point in looking at MDF, particle board or Oriented strand
board, why not just paint it? Not that latex stuff, good old-fasioned
oil-based paint. Not unlike Oil-based poly, it will take a week or more to
approach its final hardness. If it gets beat-up and crappy looking, just
recoat it. White may even make it easier to see what you are working on.
-Steve
On 29 Dec 2005 11:17:22 -0800, "rickluce" <[email protected]> wrote:
>A piece of hard board screwed to the top of the board works well. I
>imagine it would be great for electronics. You would not need to finish
>it and if it gets damaged from the fire you started working on the
>PM78749898 integrated circuit, you could just pull the screws out,
>replace the top and keep geeken away(no offense woodworkers are geeks
>too) . Particle board really soaks up the finish without much surface
>improvement.
yep.... except after changing 1/4" hardboard ( "masonite" to us old timers)
tops on a bench and RAS table, I use double-sided tape to lay it down now... it
holds it flat and is easy to pull up and flip (if double sided HB) or replace..
I like to have a light reflective surface so I spray white semi-gloss enamel on
the HB before putting it over the MDF..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 13:57:13 -0500, "Stephen M"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Thanks for the reply,
>>
>> I did not make the top myself, but it is called "engineered wood".. is
>> that another word for MDF? It is a rather smooth finish.
>
>Probably. MDF is the same color as cardboard FWIW.
>
>Since there is no point in looking at MDF, particle board or Oriented strand
>board, why not just paint it? Not that latex stuff, good old-fasioned
>oil-based paint. Not unlike Oil-based poly, it will take a week or more to
>approach its final hardness. If it gets beat-up and crappy looking, just
>recoat it. White may even make it easier to see what you are working on.
>
>-Steve
>
I have found that Zinzer's white primers oil or water based coat very
well dry fast and are almost like melamine when cured. I will use
this stuff for final coats to outdoor based wood/mdf cabinets also, it
is almost bullet proof and is easy to wash off if it gets smudged on
the white surface. Joe.
On 29 Dec 2005 10:26:14 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Thanks for the reply,
>
>I did not make the top myself, but it is called "engineered wood".. is
>that another word for MDF? It is a rather smooth finish.
I use Minwax Helmsman Urethane Spar Varnish to coat the tops of my
work benches. I specifically use the clear gloss and sand with 220,
first coat, 320 second coat and 400 or 600 for the third and any
successive coats required to have a hard shiny surface that is very
durable and resists UV damage from exposure to the sun effectively as
well.
Sometimes I use a thinned wash coat that is thinned 30 percent to
allow for the first coat to penetrate the raw unfinished mdf, it seems
like it makes the whole top stronger and resistant to chipping if a
hand tool accidentally gets dropped on the surface. If the surface
gets scratched up over time you just lightly sand it with 220 grit on
a orbital or a jitterbug sander, wipe down with rag wet with mineral
spirits, let dry and coat it again using the process above one or two
coats will make it look new. The urethane spar varnish I use drys
pretty fast so you need to flow it on fast with a fine brush or a foam
pad or else it will leave brush marks if you don't hurry fast enough.
regards, Joe.