Stair rail

Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> I made a miss step and made rolled down the stairs. Physically nothing
> happens to me except a couple of mild bruises.
>
> The stairs makes a right angle turn with the lower section open to the
> foyer. I took out two spindles at the bottom on the lower stairs.
>
> In the fall I also pulled the rail on the outside of the landing (The
> stairs not mine) away from the wall. So now I have to fix it.
>
> I believe the correct installation is to attach this upper rail to the
> wall with a 2X4 at the are of attachment, or at least a cross 2x4 between the studs.
>
> This is a 5 year old home and instead of this up rail properly attached
> it is attached to the dry wall, with toggle bolts. Where the oak rail
> meets the wall There is about a 6" diameter oak pad.dd
>
> My question: Rather that take out the dry wall and place the cross 2X4
> and then properly attach the rail to it, would I get similar results by
> gluing the pad to the wall. (The original attachment screws are still in
> place just pulled from the wall.) I was think on using some thing Like Gorilla Glue.
>
> Is this a good idea, or can some one suggest a solution with out tearing into the wall

Don't glue. Take off the hand rail and attach a 3/4" thick, approx 4" wide
board running the entire length of the handrail, on top of the drywall and
attached to the studs. Then attach the handrail to the new board. Decorate
and finish the board to match the stairs to make it look like it is part of
the design.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On 11/10/2013 1:41 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> My question: Rather that take out the dry wall and place the cross 2X4
> and then properly attach the rail to it, would I get similar results by
> gluing the pad to the wall. (The original attachment screws are still in
> place just pulled from the wall.) I was think on using some thing Like
> Gorilla Glue.
>
> Is this a good idea, or can some one suggest a solution with out tearing
> into the wall

Clearly a cross piece is the way to go. No the wall will not offer
enough strength.

--
Jeff

On 11/10/2013 10:53 AM, Swingman wrote:
> Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I made a miss step and made rolled down the stairs. Physically nothing
>> happens to me except a couple of mild bruises.
>>
>> The stairs makes a right angle turn with the lower section open to the
>> foyer. I took out two spindles at the bottom on the lower stairs.
>>
>> In the fall I also pulled the rail on the outside of the landing (The
>> stairs not mine) away from the wall. So now I have to fix it.
>>
>> I believe the correct installation is to attach this upper rail to the
>> wall with a 2X4 at the are of attachment, or at least a cross 2x4 between the studs.
>>
>> This is a 5 year old home and instead of this up rail properly attached
>> it is attached to the dry wall, with toggle bolts. Where the oak rail
>> meets the wall There is about a 6" diameter oak pad.dd
>>
>> My question: Rather that take out the dry wall and place the cross 2X4
>> and then properly attach the rail to it, would I get similar results by
>> gluing the pad to the wall. (The original attachment screws are still in
>> place just pulled from the wall.) I was think on using some thing Like Gorilla Glue.
>>
>> Is this a good idea, or can some one suggest a solution with out tearing into the wall
>
> Don't glue. Take off the hand rail and attach a 3/4" thick, approx 4" wide
> board running the entire length of the handrail, on top of the drywall and
> attached to the studs. Then attach the handrail to the new board. Decorate
> and finish the board to match the stairs to make it look like it is part of
> the design.
>

Right! Drywall is just paper glued to chalk. Not much tensile
strength. A strong mechanical connection to the studs is what you need.
Follow the previous suggestion.

Can you attach the hand rail brackets to the studs?
I like the idea of the long running board that the railing can attach to
also.
It just adds more material to the wall.
john

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

I made a miss step and made rolled down the stairs. Physically nothing
happens to me except a couple of mild bruises.

The stairs makes a right angle turn with the lower section open to the
foyer. I took out two spindles at the bottom on the lower stairs.

In the fall I also pulled the rail on the outside of the landing (The
stairs not mine) away from the wall. So now I have to fix it.

I believe the correct installation is to attach this upper rail to the
wall with a 2X4 at the are of attachment, or at least a cross 2x4
between the studs.

This is a 5 year old home and instead of this up rail properly attached
it is attached to the dry wall, with toggle bolts. Where the oak rail
meets the wall There is about a 6" diameter oak pad.dd

My question: Rather that take out the dry wall and place the cross 2X4
and then properly attach the rail to it, would I get similar results by
gluing the pad to the wall. (The original attachment screws are still in
place just pulled from the wall.) I was think on using some thing Like
Gorilla Glue.

Is this a good idea, or can some one suggest a solution with out tearing
into the wall

On 11/10/2013 8:01 PM, jloomis wrote:
> Can you attach the hand rail brackets to the studs?
> I like the idea of the long running board that the railing can attach to
> also.
> It just adds more material to the wall.
> john
>
> "Keith Nuttle" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> I made a miss step and made rolled down the stairs. Physically nothing
> happens to me except a couple of mild bruises.
>
> The stairs makes a right angle turn with the lower section open to the
> foyer. I took out two spindles at the bottom on the lower stairs.
>
> In the fall I also pulled the rail on the outside of the landing (The
> stairs not mine) away from the wall. So now I have to fix it.
>
> I believe the correct installation is to attach this upper rail to the
> wall with a 2X4 at the are of attachment, or at least a cross 2x4
> between the studs.
>
> This is a 5 year old home and instead of this up rail properly attached
> it is attached to the dry wall, with toggle bolts. Where the oak rail
> meets the wall There is about a 6" diameter oak pad.dd
>
> My question: Rather that take out the dry wall and place the cross 2X4
> and then properly attach the rail to it, would I get similar results by
> gluing the pad to the wall. (The original attachment screws are still in
> place just pulled from the wall.) I was think on using some thing Like
> Gorilla Glue.
>
> Is this a good idea, or can some one suggest a solution with out tearing
> into the wall


OP This would be a simple problem it the builder had put is a stud
where the stair rail hit he wall. Unfortunately he did not so now I
have to resolve the problem. YES the correct way to go would be to cut
out the wall install a 2x4 to connect the rail to.

This is not a season you want the house torn up.

Also unless I can get a exact match, it would mean repainting the stair
well, the foyer, and the upper hall. I only have two weeks before
Thanksgiving and we are having company.

"Keith Nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]

> Also unless I can get a exact match, it would mean
> repainting the stair well, the foyer, and the upper hall.

Learn to love contrast.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 08:10:46 -0500, Keith Nuttle
>Also unless I can get a exact match, it would mean repainting the stair
>well, the foyer, and the upper hall. I only have two weeks before
>Thanksgiving and we are having company.

Then you're right, it's not the time to tear anything up. Make your
plans now how you're going to attack this problem and then go at it
when the time is right.