Applying dye as toner

On 1/5/2017 3:08 PM, Len wrote:
> I need to spray some interior doors. 2x6 Wood frame and glass center. The
> grain on the wood portion is objectionable. really In the past:
>
> I put a light coat of shellac on first to seal the wood and
> objectional grain.
> Sanded it until smooth.
> Applied 2 coats of water borne analine dye and allowed it
> dry for 2 days. No touching because it just sits on top
> of the shellac.
> Mixed some dye into Hoods water based lacquer and sprayed
> enough coats to get my final color.
> Applied 3 coats of clear lacquer so that I could
> "finish the finish" using steel wool without
> taking off some of the color.
> Waxed the surface so that it is as smooth as a baby's bottom.
> The result is very good - BUT I still have a bunch more to
> do. There has got to be an easier way!
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Len
>

New doors with a grain you like?

On 1/5/2017 5:01 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/5/2017 3:08 PM, Len wrote:
>> I need to spray some interior doors. 2x6 Wood frame and glass center.
>> The
>> grain on the wood portion is objectionable. really In the past:
>>
>> I put a light coat of shellac on first to seal the
>> wood and
>> objectional grain.
>> Sanded it until smooth.
>> Applied 2 coats of water borne analine dye and allowed it
>> dry for 2 days. No touching because it just sits on
>> top
>> of the shellac.
>> Mixed some dye into Hoods water based lacquer and sprayed
>> enough coats to get my final color.
>> Applied 3 coats of clear lacquer so that I could
>> "finish the finish" using steel wool without
>> taking off some of the color.
>> Waxed the surface so that it is as smooth as a baby's
>> bottom.
>> The result is very good - BUT I still have a bunch
>> more to
>> do. There has got to be an easier way!
>>
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Len
>>
>
> New doors with a grain you like?

There's always that too.

--
Jeff

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On 1/5/2017 4:08 PM, Len wrote:
> I need to spray some interior doors. 2x6 Wood frame and glass center. The
> grain on the wood portion is objectionable. really In the past:
>
> I put a light coat of shellac on first to seal the wood and
> objectional grain.
> Sanded it until smooth.
> Applied 2 coats of water borne analine dye and allowed it
> dry for 2 days. No touching because it just sits on top
> of the shellac.
> Mixed some dye into Hoods water based lacquer and sprayed
> enough coats to get my final color.
> Applied 3 coats of clear lacquer so that I could
> "finish the finish" using steel wool without
> taking off some of the color.
> Waxed the surface so that it is as smooth as a baby's bottom.
> The result is very good - BUT I still have a bunch more to
> do. There has got to be an easier way!
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Len
>

So I work with dyes quite a bit.
I add my dye to the shellac or lacquer.
In shellac it allows building it nicely as a toner.

I have stained first then used it as a toner on top since it's
transparent and will allow the grain to show through.

I think water based with water based might be your problem. Water is a
solvent for water based.. So water based topcoat is a solvent for water
based dye.

But do understand that dye is just that dye, it's not a solid and won't
get fully dark unless you use a lot of dye. I use dye alone on highly
figured woods, but it takes quite a bit to get it where I want.

So I think I answered what you are looking for, but it was an open ended
question.

--
Jeff

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I have powder aniline dye that is normally mixed with hot water. If I do that, there is a lot of water being put into the Hydrocote lacquer. What is your prescription for making the mix?