It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more than
1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went searching
online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to the studs in
walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm
focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic version from
about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as
strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would anticipate also
using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench
on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that the
workbench and vise should be level! I expect that a Starrett combination
square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too in this regard--at
least I should be able to see to it that the top of the bench and the top of
the vise are coplanar. So based on the installations I have suggested
above, what else do you think I need to know about selecting a level?
Reliability is important, of course. I read somewhere that those with
"caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I mentioned) have the
potential to be less reliable.
Thank you,
Bill
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
snip
> Having a level bench is a very good idea if you are fabricating on it
> - you KNOW the bench is level, so if the assembly is level you also
> know it is parrallel, and using a square with it, you also know if it
> is square.
I think you are wanting flat, you can build level and square on a non level
surface, I have been doing it that way for 30 years.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> HeyBub wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>
>
>>
>> My tub had a slope the wrong way when I bought the house. Rotted out
>> quite
>> a lot before I finally figured out what the problem was and fixed it.
>>
>
> Your tub rotted?
>
They just don't make them like they used to. LOL
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 16:37:11 -0600, "HeyBub" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>>
>> It seems if you were installing anything that has to do with water
>> (bath, kitchen, a boat)
>> then you would desire certain surfaces to be level. (To me), it
>> seems that anything
>> else should follow the wall or ceiling lines or be balanced in
>> between them.
>
>Not always. If a bathtub or shower pan or drainboard (do they call them that
>any more?) should or could have a slope to facilitate run-off.
Don't all bathtubs and shower pans have the slope built into the
design such that when the fixture is installed correctly (level) they
drain properly?
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 08:35:13 -0500, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
>> more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just
>> the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So,
>> tonight I went searching online for a level. I assume that levels
>> with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?).
>
>Uhhh...no. Unless they are steel studs. Wood isn't magnetic.
>___________
>
>
>> I know that the workbench and vise should be level!
>
>What for? The only possible reason I can think of is if you intend to buy
>HeyBub's bag of marbles, pour them out on the table and want them to stay
>there (they'll stay in the vise, level or not, if you close the jaws on
>them).
Having a level bench is a very good idea if you are fabricating on it
- you KNOW the bench is level, so if the assembly is level you also
know it is parrallel, and using a square with it, you also know if it
is square.
> A level is a dirt-simple device. Even the ancient Egyptians used them.
>
> Unless you have need for some exotic attachement - perhaps you're a
> surveyor - a fully functional level shouldn't cost more than about three
> bucks.
Surveyors did fine with bubbles in a glass tube or dome until about
25-30 years ago.
I got a laser from my daughter's family for Christmas a few years
ago. Neat toy and it does have some practical use around the house
use. But for most things, the setup time is a lot longer than walking
to the garage and grabbing one of my bubble devices.
Probably just me. I'm kind lazy that way.
RonB
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 22:35:26 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>> "Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>> Swingman wrote:
>>>>>>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
>>>>>>>> reasonably well.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>>>>>>>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
>>>>>>>> fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
>>>>>>>> next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
>>>>>>>> the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
>>>>>>> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
>>>>>>> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
>>>>>>> wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yep
>>>>>
>>>>> Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
>>>>> instance if you were
>>>>> building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
>>>>> when it's time for
>>>>> one of those laser levels, no?
>>>>
>>>> String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
>>>> accurate as a cheap laser level
>>>
>>> Good idea!
>>>
>>> --if you want to be precise use a garden hose
>>>> and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it
>>>
>>> Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
>>> Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end
>>> will always match! : )
>>> A lot of potential there: Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
>>> ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
>>> and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn
>>> that trick?
>>
>> Water levels have been around for ever.
>
>I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...
>
Actually used to be VERY common for installing suspended ceiling
grids.
Bill wrote:
> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
> more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just
> the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So,
> tonight I went searching online for a level. I assume that levels
> with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?). Any
> other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm focusing now on the 24" size.
> Stanley makes several, basic version from about $16 up to a FatMax
> Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as strong and accurate to
> .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would anticipate also using the level
> to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench on a
> concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that
> the workbench and vise should be level! I expect that a Starrett
> combination square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too
> in this regard--at least I should be able to see to it that the top
> of the bench and the top of the vise are coplanar. So based on the
> installations I have suggested above, what else do you think I need
> to know about selecting a level? Reliability is important, of course.
> I read somewhere that those with "caps" on the ends (which may
> include the ones I mentioned) have the potential to be less reliable.
A level is a dirt-simple device. Even the ancient Egyptians used them.
Unless you have need for some exotic attachement - perhaps you're a
surveyor - a fully functional level shouldn't cost more than about three
bucks.
Here's a bag of marbles for 20¢ each.
http://www.landofmarbles.com/sup346.html
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> HeyBub wrote:
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>
>>
>>>
>>> My tub had a slope the wrong way when I bought the house. Rotted out
>>> quite
>>> a lot before I finally figured out what the problem was and fixed it.
>>>
>>
>> Your tub rotted?
>
> Nope. The wall, the floor, the joists, . . .
So was that water that leaked between the tub and wall?
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>
>>> Water levels have been around for ever.
>>
>> I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...
>>
>
> They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.
Hard to find? Vinyl tubing is everywhere. Water is quite common.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 15:40:21 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Water levels have been around for ever.
>>>>
>>>> I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...
>>>>
>>>
>>> They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.
>>
>> Hard to find? Vinyl tubing is everywhere. Water is quite common.
>
>Let me know the next time a salesman informs you about one of these water
>levels...
>That's the job of a salesman, to inform, right? ; )
>
I've seen water levels for sale in stores. Ok, it was a little thingy
with a buzzer when the water at the other end was at the mark. I
supposed it would be somewhat useful. I always found a couple of
nails and a measure worked fine.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Bill wrote:
>>> "Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> Swingman wrote:
>>>>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>>>>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
>>>>>> reasonably well.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>>>>>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
>>>>>> fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
>>>>>> next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
>>>>>> the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>>>>>
>>>>> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
>>>>> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
>>>>> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
>>>>> wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yep
>>>
>>> Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
>>> instance if you were
>>> building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
>>> when it's time for
>>> one of those laser levels, no?
>>
>> String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
>> accurate as a cheap laser level
>
> Good idea!
>
> --if you want to be precise use a garden hose
>> and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it
>
> Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
> Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end will
> always match! : )
> A lot of potential there: Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
> ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
> and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn that
> trick?
Water levels have been around for ever.
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>>
>> So was that water that leaked between the tub and wall?
>
> Actually went on the floor and under the tub. Tubs have a lip that is
> intended to catch water on three sides--you want it sloped so that water
> runs toward the lip on the back of the tub so most of it stays in the tub.
Yeah and the fact that water is normally clear makes it hard to notice.
> Mine was sloped the other way A bad seal around the valves let water run
> behind the wall, down into the gap between that lip and the wall, it then
> ran down the open side of the tub, behind the wall, and out onto the floor
> under the vinyl. First sign that there was a problem was when I put my
> foot
> through the floor. When I got into it I found that the floor was rotted
> out
> from above, and water had run down alongside the nails onto the tops of
> the
> joists and rotted them between the joist and subfloor. Huge mess. Didn't
> help that the previous owner had had the same thing happen, done a
> half-assed job of fixing it and not bothered to check the levelling of the
> tub.
Sounds like a real mess you had.
On Dec 16, 11:09=A0am, Hoosierpopi <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Dec 14, 2:56=A0am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
> well.
I like mine too. It's great for hanging pictures or towel rods. The
pin is enough to hang the thing and doesn't completely mess up the
sheetrock.
> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
> and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
> repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
> marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
Since I got the B&D laser thingy I haven't used a level on finished
walls.
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 11:17:55 -0800, the infamous Mike M
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 02:56:31 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more than
>>1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>>without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went searching
>>online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to the studs in
>>walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm
>>focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic version from
>>about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as
>>strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would anticipate also
>>using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench
>>on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that the
>>workbench and vise should be level! I expect that a Starrett combination
>>square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too in this regard--at
>>least I should be able to see to it that the top of the bench and the top of
>>the vise are coplanar. So based on the installations I have suggested
>>above, what else do you think I need to know about selecting a level?
>>Reliability is important, of course. I read somewhere that those with
>>"caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I mentioned) have the
>>potential to be less reliable.
>>
>>Thank you,
>>Bill
>>
>I keep waiting for the sound of the reel letting out line.
I distinctly heard the click. The line feeding out is probably too
quiet to hear over the Internet.
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
On Dec 14, 2:56=A0am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
well.
Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
Bill wrote:
> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
> more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just
> the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So,
> tonight I went searching online for a level. I assume that levels
> with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?).
Uhhh...no. Unless they are steel studs. Wood isn't magnetic.
___________
> I know that the workbench and vise should be level!
What for? The only possible reason I can think of is if you intend to buy
HeyBub's bag of marbles, pour them out on the table and want them to stay
there (they'll stay in the vise, level or not, if you close the jaws on
them).
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Bill wrote:
>
> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
> than
> 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
> without one, which I ended up doing twice.
... snip
While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are other
times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel to
the ceiling (for a flat ceiling). A good example is drapery rods --
installing them level when the ceiling is not will make them look funny --
you want them an equal distance from the ceiling. Same is true of long
pictures or other frames that can be referenced by eye to the ceiling.
(DAMHIKT).
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
Bill wrote:
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>> "Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>> Swingman wrote:
>>>>>>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
>>>>>>>> reasonably well.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>>>>>>>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
>>>>>>>> fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
>>>>>>>> next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
>>>>>>>> the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>>>>>>> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
>>>>>>> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
>>>>>>> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
>>>>>>> wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yep
>>>>> Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
>>>>> instance if you were
>>>>> building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
>>>>> when it's time for
>>>>> one of those laser levels, no?
>>>> String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
>>>> accurate as a cheap laser level
>>> Good idea!
>>>
>>> --if you want to be precise use a garden hose
>>>> and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it
>>> Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
>>> Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end
>>> will always match! : )
>>> A lot of potential there: Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
>>> ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
>>> and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn
>>> that trick?
>> Water levels have been around for ever.
>
> I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...
Too easy to make ... all you need is some clear plastic tubing and
water. Still, they are more accurate than any other level, including lasers.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
J. Clarke wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
>>> more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just
>>> the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So,
>>> tonight I went searching online for a level. I assume that levels
>>> with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?).
>>
>> Uhhh...no. Unless they are steel studs. Wood isn't magnetic.
>> ___________
>>
>>
>>> I know that the workbench and vise should be level!
>>
>> What for? The only possible reason I can think of is if you intend
>> to buy HeyBub's bag of marbles, pour them out on the table and want
>> them to stay there (they'll stay in the vise, level or not, if you
>> close the jaws on them).
>
> Stuff in the vise will stay put. A 1/4" chisel laid on the benchtop
> not so much. And when it finishes rolling off it's even money
> whether it's going to come down point first on one's foot or the
> concrete floor.
>
> It's convenient that the bench be level enough that round tools don't
> roll off of it.
I don't have round tools, I sand a flat on them.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
[email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 08:35:13 -0500, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Bill wrote:
>>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
>>> more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just
>>> the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So,
>>> tonight I went searching online for a level. I assume that levels
>>> with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?).
>>
>> Uhhh...no. Unless they are steel studs. Wood isn't magnetic.
>> ___________
>>
>>
>>> I know that the workbench and vise should be level!
>>
>> What for? The only possible reason I can think of is if you intend
>> to buy HeyBub's bag of marbles, pour them out on the table and want
>> them to stay there (they'll stay in the vise, level or not, if you
>> close the jaws on them).
> Having a level bench is a very good idea if you are fabricating on it
> - you KNOW the bench is level, so if the assembly is level you also
> know it is parrallel, and using a square with it, you also know if it
> is square.
Flat I can see, but level?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> HeyBub wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>
> My tub had a slope the wrong way when I bought the house. Rotted out
> quite
> a lot before I finally figured out what the problem was and fixed it.
>
Your tub rotted?
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
> than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other
> day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went
> searching online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to
> the studs in walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic
> level"? I'm focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic
> version from about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to
> be 5x as strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would
> anticipate also using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a
> homemade workbench on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not
> level). I know that the workbench and vise should be level! I expect
> that a Starrett combination square that I expect to have by then will be
> helpful too in this regard--at least I should be able to see to it that
> the top of the bench and the top of the vise are coplanar. So based on
> the installations I have suggested above, what else do you think I need to
> know about selecting a level? Reliability is important, of course. I read
> somewhere that those with "caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I
> mentioned) have the potential to be less reliable.
>
You will know to check that the level reads correctly by turning it around.
A suprising number of levels are slightly wrong. No quantity of lasers,
tripods, magnets or carry cases are any use at all unless the bubble is
precisely set. You may find an issue with the sensitivity of the level, eg
how far out of level it has to be to read out of level. You may not even
want the level to be very sensitive, but that is down to your work and your
experience to judge.
I used to use a level but now I work in old buildings I don't touch one from
one week to the next.
Tim W
Bill wrote:
>
> It seems if you were installing anything that has to do with water
> (bath, kitchen, a boat)
> then you would desire certain surfaces to be level. (To me), it
> seems that anything
> else should follow the wall or ceiling lines or be balanced in
> between them.
Not always. If a bathtub or shower pan or drainboard (do they call them that
any more?) should or could have a slope to facilitate run-off.
Bill wrote:
> "Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Swingman wrote:
>>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
>>>> well.
>>>>
>>>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>>>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
>>>> and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
>>>> repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
>>>> marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>>> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
>>> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
>>> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the wall,
>>> transfer marks off board to wall.
>>>
>> Yep
>
> Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
> instance if you were building two structures that you wanted to "match")?
> Guess that's when it's time for one of those laser levels, no?
I have three laser levels, none of which I would usually bother to take
out to "hang something" on the wall, unless, of course, it was a row of
kitchen cabinets ...
So yep ... they do come in handy. :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
> than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other
> day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went
> searching online for a level.
With pictures I have found that typically what a level indicates may not be
what your eyes perceive as level. Basically other objects near the picture
or a curved archway may in fact make a level picture look unlevel. I always
depend on my eyes to make a picture look level.
I assume that levels with magnets stick to the studs in
> walls (is that correct?).
Probably not correct, they "might" stick to steel studs that are in some
more modern homes but mostly to stick to iron work. The magnets may in fact
distort the level if most of the area you are working is non-ferrous and you
have an odd object that the level is attracted to. I doubt that magnets on
a level will pull through sheet rock.
That said, there are "Gecko" spelling? levels by B&D IIRC. They have a
super surface that will almost stick to a vertical wall. Not totally unlike
the material used on the guide rails on the new style circular saws that
require no clamps to stay in place.
Any other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm
> focusing now on the 24" size.
Are you working with steel pipe or steel beams?
Stanley makes several, basic version from
> about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as
> strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35.
Do you think you can see the tilt in a picture that is only .1 degrees out
of level?
I would anticipate also
> using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench
> on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that
> the workbench and vise should be level!
Nothing in my shop, 7' long TS, drill press, planer, router table work
bench, drum sander, lathe, band saw, etc is level nor do any of them need to
be level. Why would you need for them to be level?
I expect that a Starrett combination
> square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too in this
> regard--at least I should be able to see to it that the top of the bench
> and the top of the vise are coplanar. So based on the installations I
> have suggested above, what else do you think I need to know about
> selecting a level?
The longer the level, the more accurate the results. The shorter levels are
good for ball park settings but for larger objects like cabinets or doors yo
want longer. Irregular surfaces on what you are trying to make level or
plumb have less adverse results when using a longer level.
> Reliability is important, of course. I read somewhere that those with
> "caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I mentioned) have the
> potential to be less reliable.
Reliability is important, if the level is calibrated correctly to begin with
and you don't drop it very much there is not much that can go wrong with a
liquid in a tube.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Let me know the next time a salesman informs you about one of these water
> levels...
> That's the job of a salesman, to inform, right? ; )
>
You don't buy a water level, you build one.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Dec 14, 8:05=A0am, "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Bill wrote:
> > It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
> > more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. =A0I did a project just
> > the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. =A0 So,
> > tonight I went searching online for a level. =A0I assume that levels
> > with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?). =A0Any
> > other uses for a "magnetic level"? =A0I'm focusing now on the 24" size.
> > Stanley makes several, basic version from about $16 up to a FatMax
> > Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as strong and accurate to
> > .0005"/inch. for about $35. =A0I would anticipate also using the level
> > to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench on a
> > concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). =A0I know that
> > the workbench and vise should be level! =A0I expect that a Starrett
> > combination square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too
> > in this regard--at least I should be able to see to it that the top
> > of the bench and the top of the vise are coplanar. =A0So based on the
> > installations I have suggested above, what else do you think I need
> > to know about selecting a level? Reliability is important, of course.
> > I read somewhere that those with "caps" on the ends (which may
> > include the ones I mentioned) have the potential to be less reliable.
>
> A level is a dirt-simple device. Even the ancient Egyptians used them.
>
> Unless you have need for some exotic attachement - perhaps you're a
> surveyor - a fully functional level shouldn't cost more than about three
> bucks.
>
> Here's a bag of marbles for 20=A2 each.http://www.landofmarbles.com/sup34=
6.html
You're going to replace those you've lost? <G>
On Dec 15, 9:23=A0am, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon wrote:
> > "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Leon wrote:
> >>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>>news:[email protected]...
> >>>> HeyBub wrote:
> >>>>> Bill wrote:
>
> >>>> My tub had a slope the wrong way when I bought the house. =A0Rotted
> >>>> out quite
> >>>> a lot before I finally figured out what the problem was and fixed
> >>>> it.
>
> >>> Your tub rotted?
>
> >> Nope. =A0The wall, the floor, the joists, . . .
>
> > So was that water that leaked between the tub and wall?
>
> Actually went on the floor and under the tub. =A0Tubs have a lip that is
> intended to catch water on three sides--you want it sloped so that water
> runs toward the lip on the back of the tub so most of it stays in the tub=
.
> Mine was sloped the other way =A0 A bad seal around the valves let water =
run
> behind the wall, down into the gap between that lip and the wall, it then
> ran down the open side of the tub, behind the wall, and out onto the floo=
r
> under the vinyl. =A0First sign that there was a problem was when I put my=
foot
> through the floor. =A0When I got into it I found that the floor was rotte=
d out
> from above, and water had run down alongside the nails onto the tops of t=
he
> joists and rotted them between the joist and subfloor. =A0Huge mess. =A0D=
idn't
> help that the previous owner had =A0had the same thing happen, done a
> half-assed job of fixing it and not bothered to check the levelling of th=
e
> tub.
I had the subfloor in a half-bath rot out without me knowing it. I
discovered the problem when I was pulling the fixtures out preparing
to tile the floor. I first noticed the strange aluminum flashing and
caulking under the baseboard. Then when I removed the vanity I
discovered the subflooring under it had turned to dust. Evidently the
previous owners knew about the leak but perhaps thought it was their
kid taking a bath on the floor and tried to dam up the walls. The
problem was a pin hole in the hot water supply pipe in the wall. I
found it by feel; a nail had worked its way from the inside out.
Amazingly, it never leaked enough to get to the kitchen ceiling,
below.
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 02:56:31 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
I use a level once in a while, but usually do it with a laser line projector..
I think I paid $10 for it at Harbor Freight..
Just set it on a surface with it projecting a line, set the screws until it's
level and line the shelf or whatever up with it..
Very handy as a "3rd hand"..
>
>It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more than
>1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went searching
>online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to the studs in
>walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm
>focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic version from
>about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as
>strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would anticipate also
>using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench
>on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that the
>workbench and vise should be level! I expect that a Starrett combination
>square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too in this regard--at
>least I should be able to see to it that the top of the bench and the top of
>the vise are coplanar. So based on the installations I have suggested
>above, what else do you think I need to know about selecting a level?
>Reliability is important, of course. I read somewhere that those with
>"caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I mentioned) have the
>potential to be less reliable.
>
>Thank you,
>Bill
>
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 14:51:30 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
>>> than
>>> 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>>> without one, which I ended up doing twice.
>> ... snip
>>
>> While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are other
>> times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel to
>> the ceiling (for a flat ceiling). A good example is drapery rods --
>> installing them level when the ceiling is not will make them look funny --
>> you want them an equal distance from the ceiling.
>
>Thank you for mentioning this Rob. I've got a set of drapery rods and
>curtains I need to install.
>Surprisingly, it has been an intimidating project I have put off (lots of
>strings, hooks, pleats, etc).
>I started it one day and, based on unexcusably-poor directions, put it away
>until I felt more enthusiastic.
>
>Bill
>
For stuff close to the ceiling I just use a tape measure unless it
needs to work with gravity.
Swingman wrote:
> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
> wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
Or mark on the level if you can ...
First rule of accuracy and efficiency in hanging "stuff" on walls is to
never measure when you can mark.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
> than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other
> day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went
> searching online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to
> the studs in walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic
> level"? I'm focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic
> version from about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to
> be 5x as strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would
> anticipate also using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a
> homemade workbench on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not
> level). I know that the workbench and vise should be level! I expect
> that a Starrett combination square that I expect to have by then will be
> helpful too in this regard--at least I should be able to see to it that
> the top of the bench and the top of the vise are coplanar. So based on
> the installations I have suggested above, what else do you think I need to
> know about selecting a level? Reliability is important, of course. I read
> somewhere that those with "caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I
> mentioned) have the potential to be less reliable.
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
>
Look at this one (9" Digital Level w/Laser)!
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22206&utm_source=NL&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=V0717&cookietest=1
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
>> than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other
>> day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went
>> searching online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to
>> the studs in walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic
>> level"? I'm focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic
>> version from about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed
>> to be 5x as strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would
>> anticipate also using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a
>> homemade workbench on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not
>> level). I know that the workbench and vise should be level! I expect
>> that a Starrett combination square that I expect to have by then will be
>> helpful too in this regard--at least I should be able to see to it that
>> the top of the bench and the top of the vise are coplanar. So based on
>> the installations I have suggested above, what else do you think I need
>> to know about selecting a level? Reliability is important, of course. I
>> read somewhere that those with "caps" on the ends (which may include the
>> ones I mentioned) have the potential to be less reliable.
>>
>> Thank you,
>> Bill
>>
>
> Look at this one (9" Digital Level w/Laser)!
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22206&utm_source=NL&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=V0717&cookietest=1
Here's another that shows degrees:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jspStoreDir=hdus&catalogId=10053&productId=100654151&navFlow=3&keyword=24+inch+level&langId=-1&searchRedirect=24+inch+level&storeId=10051&endecaDataBean=com.homedepot.sa.el.wc.catalog.beans.EndecaDataBean%4063613b00&ddkey=Search
dadiOH wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
>> more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just
>> the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So,
>> tonight I went searching online for a level. I assume that levels
>> with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?).
>
> Uhhh...no. Unless they are steel studs. Wood isn't magnetic.
> ___________
>
>
>> I know that the workbench and vise should be level!
>
> What for? The only possible reason I can think of is if you intend
> to buy HeyBub's bag of marbles, pour them out on the table and want
> them to stay there (they'll stay in the vise, level or not, if you
> close the jaws on them).
Stuff in the vise will stay put. A 1/4" chisel laid on the benchtop not so
much. And when it finishes rolling off it's even money whether it's going
to come down point first on one's foot or the concrete floor.
It's convenient that the bench be level enough that round tools don't roll
off of it.
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>
>>
>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
>> than
>> 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>> without one, which I ended up doing twice.
> ... snip
>
> While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are other
> times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel to
> the ceiling (for a flat ceiling). A good example is drapery rods --
> installing them level when the ceiling is not will make them look funny --
> you want them an equal distance from the ceiling.
Thank you for mentioning this Rob. I've got a set of drapery rods and
curtains I need to install.
Surprisingly, it has been an intimidating project I have put off (lots of
strings, hooks, pleats, etc).
I started it one day and, based on unexcusably-poor directions, put it away
until I felt more enthusiastic.
Bill
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>
>>
>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
>> than
>> 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>> without one, which I ended up doing twice.
> ... snip
>
> While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are other
> times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel to
> the ceiling (for a flat ceiling).
I was thinking about using my jointer plane (and others) on work in a vise
(or on the workbench). I thought I read that it was important that the work
be level,
and this makes sense to me for several reasons. One may be so that one may
use ones internal sense of "down" (i.e. gravity) to guide the cut. I speak
without
much experience; comments always welcome.
Bill
"Mike M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 02:56:31 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
>>than
>>1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>>without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went searching
>>online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to the studs
>>in
>>walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm
>>focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic version from
>>about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as
>>strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would anticipate
>>also
>>using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench
>>on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that
>>the
>>workbench and vise should be level! I expect that a Starrett combination
>>square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too in this
>>regard--at
>>least I should be able to see to it that the top of the bench and the top
>>of
>>the vise are coplanar. So based on the installations I have suggested
>>above, what else do you think I need to know about selecting a level?
>>Reliability is important, of course. I read somewhere that those with
>>"caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I mentioned) have the
>>potential to be less reliable.
>>
>>Thank you,
>>Bill
>>
> I keep waiting for the sound of the reel letting out line.
>
> Mike M
Yes, yes, yes...your comment is well-taken. But appropriate use of a level
may make or break your project.
I was watching a YouTube video on woodworking where someone had built
a very large big "wall (storage) unit" and went out of the way to shim it
this way and
that to make it level--and that seemed counter-intuitive to me, I was
thinking
it should "fit the room". Frankly, that left me in a confused state.
It seems if you were installing anything that has to do with water (bath,
kitchen, a boat)
then you would desire certain surfaces to be level. (To me), it seems that
anything
else should follow the wall or ceiling lines or be balanced in between them.
Bill
"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
>> more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just
>> the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So,
>> tonight I went searching online for a level. I assume that levels
>> with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?). Any
>> other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm focusing now on the 24" size.
>> Stanley makes several, basic version from about $16 up to a FatMax
>> Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as strong and accurate to
>> .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would anticipate also using the level
>> to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench on a
>> concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that
>> the workbench and vise should be level! I expect that a Starrett
>> combination square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too
>> in this regard--at least I should be able to see to it that the top
>> of the bench and the top of the vise are coplanar. So based on the
>> installations I have suggested above, what else do you think I need
>> to know about selecting a level? Reliability is important, of course.
>> I read somewhere that those with "caps" on the ends (which may
>> include the ones I mentioned) have the potential to be less reliable.
>
> A level is a dirt-simple device. Even the ancient Egyptians used them.
>
> Unless you have need for some exotic attachement - perhaps you're a
> surveyor - a fully functional level shouldn't cost more than about three
> bucks.
I think one can almost fill a glass pill bottle with water, attach it on its
side to a board,
and having a working level and 3 bucks. (I belive I first saw this in the
book
"Hand Tools: There Ways and Workings", by Aldren Watson). If one doesnt have
a flat board, he or she may have to spend the 3 bucks--or possibly do prison
time.
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> dadiOH wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
>>> more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just
>>> the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So,
>>> tonight I went searching online for a level. I assume that levels
>>> with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?).
>>
>> Uhhh...no. Unless they are steel studs. Wood isn't magnetic.
>> ___________
>>
>>
>>> I know that the workbench and vise should be level!
>>
>> What for?
The main reason I was thinking of was to reinforce accurate planing.
Not sure to the extent this is valid.
Bill
> Stuff in the vise will stay put. A 1/4" chisel laid on the benchtop not
> so
> much. And when it finishes rolling off it's even money whether it's going
> to come down point first on one's foot or the concrete floor.
>
> It's convenient that the bench be level enough that round tools don't roll
> off of it.
>
"Gerald Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
>> than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other
>> day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went
>> searching online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to
>> the studs in walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic
>> level"? I'm focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic
>> version from about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed
>> to be 5x as strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would
>> anticipate also using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a
>> homemade workbench on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not
>> level). I know that the workbench and vise should be level! I expect
>> that a Starrett combination square that I expect to have by then will be
>> helpful too in this regard--at least I should be able to see to it that
>> the top of the bench and the top of the vise are coplanar. So based on
>> the installations I have suggested above, what else do you think I need
>> to know about selecting a level? Reliability is important, of course. I
>> read somewhere that those with "caps" on the ends (which may include the
>> ones I mentioned) have the potential to be less reliable.
>>
>> Thank you,
>> Bill
> Can't decide if you're asking or telling.
Mostly, I'm learning (which is closer to "asking")! : )
I am definitely NOT "telling".
Bill
> Gerald Ross
> Cochran, GA
>
> Pobody's Nerfect!
>
>
>
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Having a level bench is a very good idea if you are fabricating on it
> - you KNOW the bench is level, so if the assembly is level you also
> know it is parrallel, and using a square with it, you also know if it
> is square.
Very nice. Thank you for sharing this.
Bill
HeyBub wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>>
>> It seems if you were installing anything that has to do with water
>> (bath, kitchen, a boat)
>> then you would desire certain surfaces to be level. (To me), it
>> seems that anything
>> else should follow the wall or ceiling lines or be balanced in
>> between them.
>
> Not always. If a bathtub or shower pan or drainboard (do they call
> them that any more?) should or could have a slope to facilitate
> run-off.
My tub had a slope the wrong way when I bought the house. Rotted out quite
a lot before I finally figured out what the problem was and fixed it.
"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>>
>> It seems if you were installing anything that has to do with water
>> (bath, kitchen, a boat)
>> then you would desire certain surfaces to be level. (To me), it
>> seems that anything
>> else should follow the wall or ceiling lines or be balanced in
>> between them.
>
> Not always. If a bathtub or shower pan or drainboard (do they call them
> that any more?) should or could have a slope to facilitate run-off.
Good point. An unlevel toilet would be bothersome though... the reasons why
could probably make David Letterman's top 10 list... : )
<not even going to sign my name>
Leon wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> HeyBub wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>
>
>>
>> My tub had a slope the wrong way when I bought the house. Rotted out
>> quite
>> a lot before I finally figured out what the problem was and fixed it.
>>
>
> Your tub rotted?
Nope. The wall, the floor, the joists, . . .
Leon wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Leon wrote:
>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> HeyBub wrote:
>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> My tub had a slope the wrong way when I bought the house. Rotted
>>>> out quite
>>>> a lot before I finally figured out what the problem was and fixed
>>>> it.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Your tub rotted?
>>
>> Nope. The wall, the floor, the joists, . . .
>
> So was that water that leaked between the tub and wall?
Actually went on the floor and under the tub. Tubs have a lip that is
intended to catch water on three sides--you want it sloped so that water
runs toward the lip on the back of the tub so most of it stays in the tub.
Mine was sloped the other way A bad seal around the valves let water run
behind the wall, down into the gap between that lip and the wall, it then
ran down the open side of the tub, behind the wall, and out onto the floor
under the vinyl. First sign that there was a problem was when I put my foot
through the floor. When I got into it I found that the floor was rotted out
from above, and water had run down alongside the nails onto the tops of the
joists and rotted them between the joist and subfloor. Huge mess. Didn't
help that the previous owner had had the same thing happen, done a
half-assed job of fixing it and not bothered to check the levelling of the
tub.
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>I keep waiting for the sound of the reel letting out line.
>
> I distinctly heard the click. The line feeding out is probably too
> quiet to hear over the Internet.
Out of all of the posts to this tread, this is the one you chose to reply
to?
I was hoping to read something interesting. If you want to chase the fish,
you should probably choose one less piscatorially-oriented who can't
tie a royal coachman with the same ease with which you tie your shoes....
Maybe you should stick to music? Repeat at Cod(a)?
Bill
>
> --
> Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
> -----------
Bill wrote:
> "Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
>>> than
>>> 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>>> without one, which I ended up doing twice.
>> ... snip
>>
>> While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are other
>> times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel to
>> the ceiling (for a flat ceiling).
>
> I was thinking about using my jointer plane (and others) on work in a vise
> (or on the workbench). I thought I read that it was important that the work
> be level,
> and this makes sense to me for several reasons. One may be so that one may
> use ones internal sense of "down" (i.e. gravity) to guide the cut. I speak
> without
> much experience; comments always welcome.
>
> Bill
>
>
The bench that my large vise is mounted to is "sorta" level. Depending
on how much of a hurry I'm in, the piece to be planed may or may not be
even with the jaws of the vise.
And you're right. The piece you're working on should be close to being
level or at least parallel (kinda) to the floor.
But it's like Leon was saying about the curtain rods. If you mount a
piece of wood into the vise and it looks ok, it likely is. When you're
pushing through on a plane stroke, the plane sole will follow the edge
of the wood by itself. And your push stroke will follow the lead of the
plane, within reason.
There are quite a number of things to think about when you're planing a
piece of wood, and when you're new at it, some of them are critical if
you want a smooth surface. Having the piece dead-nuts level to the floor
or the bench isn't one of them.
I'm not trying to talk you out of getting a level. I've had one for
years, and if I lost it, I'd immediately get another one. I just never
use it inside the shop.
YMMV
Tanus
"Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> "Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
>>>> than
>>>> 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>>>> without one, which I ended up doing twice.
>>> ... snip
>>>
>>> While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are other
>>> times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel
>>> to
>>> the ceiling (for a flat ceiling).
>>
>> I was thinking about using my jointer plane (and others) on work in a
>> vise
>> (or on the workbench). I thought I read that it was important that the
>> work be level,
>> and this makes sense to me for several reasons. One may be so that one
>> may
>> use ones internal sense of "down" (i.e. gravity) to guide the cut. I
>> speak without
>> much experience; comments always welcome.
>>
>> Bill
>
> The bench that my large vise is mounted to is "sorta" level. Depending on
> how much of a hurry I'm in, the piece to be planed may or may not be even
> with the jaws of the vise.
>
> And you're right. The piece you're working on should be close to being
> level or at least parallel (kinda) to the floor.
>
> But it's like Leon was saying about the curtain rods. If you mount a piece
> of wood into the vise and it looks ok, it likely is. When you're pushing
> through on a plane stroke, the plane sole will follow the edge of the wood
> by itself. And your push stroke will follow the lead of the plane, within
> reason.
>
> There are quite a number of things to think about when you're planing a
> piece of wood, and when you're new at it, some of them are critical if you
> want a smooth surface. Having the piece dead-nuts level to the floor or
> the bench isn't one of them.
>
> I'm not trying to talk you out of getting a level. I've had one for years,
> and if I lost it, I'd immediately get another one. I just never use it
> inside the shop.
>
> YMMV
>
> Tanus
Nice post. One thing I've learned from this thread is that one doesn't
alway
want things to be level, necessarily. I was thinking about arranging some
chunks of broken concrete to create curved walls encompassing a tree or
flower bed (or both). Is a level good for that or do I need a transit
(too)? ; )
Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Bill wrote:
>>> "Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
>>>>> more
>>>>> than
>>>>> 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>>>>> without one, which I ended up doing twice.
>>>> ... snip
>>>>
>>>> While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are
>>>> other
>>>> times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel
>>>> to
>>>> the ceiling (for a flat ceiling).
>>>
>>> I was thinking about using my jointer plane (and others) on work in a
>>> vise
>>> (or on the workbench). I thought I read that it was important that the
>>> work be level,
>>> and this makes sense to me for several reasons. One may be so that one
>>> may
>>> use ones internal sense of "down" (i.e. gravity) to guide the cut. I
>>> speak without
>>> much experience; comments always welcome.
>>>
>>> Bill
>>
>> The bench that my large vise is mounted to is "sorta" level. Depending on
>> how much of a hurry I'm in, the piece to be planed may or may not be even
>> with the jaws of the vise.
>>
>> And you're right. The piece you're working on should be close to being
>> level or at least parallel (kinda) to the floor.
>>
>> But it's like Leon was saying about the curtain rods. If you mount a
>> piece of wood into the vise and it looks ok, it likely is. When you're
>> pushing through on a plane stroke, the plane sole will follow the edge of
>> the wood by itself. And your push stroke will follow the lead of the
>> plane, within reason.
>>
>> There are quite a number of things to think about when you're planing a
>> piece of wood, and when you're new at it, some of them are critical if
>> you want a smooth surface. Having the piece dead-nuts level to the floor
>> or the bench isn't one of them.
>>
>> I'm not trying to talk you out of getting a level. I've had one for
>> years, and if I lost it, I'd immediately get another one. I just never
>> use it inside the shop.
>>
>> YMMV
>>
>> Tanus
>
> Nice post. One thing I've learned from this thread is that one doesn't
> alway
> want things to be level, necessarily. I was thinking about arranging some
> chunks of broken concrete to create curved walls encompassing a tree or
> flower bed (or both). Is a level good for that or do I need a transit
> (too)? ; )
>
> Bill
I don't want to make it seem like I want to post replies to my own post, but
the
following laser level seems like an easy way of making all of one's "flower
beds"
are the same height--or at least the same elevation... Not sure which of
these is better.
My dad, RIP, would have liked to tell me. He was a civil engineer and
outstanding at landscaping.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=236983-16878-60208&lpage=none
Bill
Swingman wrote:
> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
>> well.
>>
>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
>> and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
>> repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
>> marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>
> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
> wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
>
Yep
"Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Swingman wrote:
>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
>>> well.
>>>
>>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
>>> and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
>>> repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
>>> marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>>
>> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
>> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
>> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the wall,
>> transfer marks off board to wall.
>>
>
> Yep
Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were
building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's when it's
time for
one of those laser levels, no?
Bill
Bill wrote:
> "Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Swingman wrote:
>>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
>>>> reasonably well.
>>>>
>>>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>>>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
>>>> fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
>>>> next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
>>>> the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>>>
>>> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
>>> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
>>> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
>>> wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
>>>
>>
>> Yep
>
> Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
> instance if you were
> building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
> when it's time for
> one of those laser levels, no?
String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
accurate as a cheap laser level--if you want to be precise use a garden hose
and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it
>
> Bill
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> "Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Swingman wrote:
>>>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>>>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
>>>>> reasonably well.
>>>>>
>>>>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>>>>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
>>>>> fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
>>>>> next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
>>>>> the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>>>>
>>>> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
>>>> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
>>>> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
>>>> wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Yep
>>
>> Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
>> instance if you were
>> building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
>> when it's time for
>> one of those laser levels, no?
>
> String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
> accurate as a cheap laser level
Good idea!
--if you want to be precise use a garden hose
> and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it
Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end will
always match! : )
A lot of potential there: Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the ends
of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn that
trick?
Bill
>>
>> Bill
>
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> "Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> Swingman wrote:
>>>>>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>>>>>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
>>>>>>> reasonably well.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>>>>>>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
>>>>>>> fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
>>>>>>> next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
>>>>>>> the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
>>>>>> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
>>>>>> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
>>>>>> wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Yep
>>>>
>>>> Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
>>>> instance if you were
>>>> building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
>>>> when it's time for
>>>> one of those laser levels, no?
>>>
>>> String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
>>> accurate as a cheap laser level
>>
>> Good idea!
>>
>> --if you want to be precise use a garden hose
>>> and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it
>>
>> Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
>> Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end
>> will always match! : )
>> A lot of potential there: Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
>> ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
>> and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn
>> that trick?
>
> Water levels have been around for ever.
I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>
>>>>
>>>> Water levels have been around for ever.
>>>
>>> I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...
>>>
>>
>> They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.
>
> Hard to find? Vinyl tubing is everywhere. Water is quite common.
Let me know the next time a salesman informs you about one of these water
levels...
That's the job of a salesman, to inform, right? ; )
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 18:34:30 -0500, the infamous "Bill"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>>>I keep waiting for the sound of the reel letting out line.
>>
>> I distinctly heard the click. The line feeding out is probably too
>> quiet to hear over the Internet.
>
>
>Out of all of the posts to this tread, this is the one you chose to reply
>to?
Y'mean "thread"?
>I was hoping to read something interesting. If you want to chase the fish,
>you should probably choose one less piscatorially-oriented who can't
>tie a royal coachman with the same ease with which you tie your shoes....
>Maybe you should stick to music? Repeat at Cod(a)?
Actually, we weren't referring to fish. Clues are for sale at...Oh,
never mind.
P.S: I tie my tennies loosely so I can don them like slip-ons. My
laces are stitched so they don't come undone, as they were wont to.
Ta!
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 15:40:21 -0500, the infamous "Bill"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Water levels have been around for ever.
>>>>
>>>> I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...
>>>>
>>>
>>> They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.
>>
>> Hard to find? Vinyl tubing is everywhere. Water is quite common.
>
>Let me know the next time a salesman informs you about one of these water
>levels...
>That's the job of a salesman, to inform, right? ; )
I picked up 4' of 1/2" vinyl tubing and two hose end adapters so I
could make a water level out of any garden hose. About $8 at bLowes.
Fill with water, mark lines, quickclamp to the posts, and go!
--
Indifference to evidence: Climate alarmists have become brilliantly
adept at changing their terms to suit their convenience. So it's
"global warming" when there's a heat wave, but it's "climate change"
when there's a cold snap. The earth has registered no discernable
warming in the past 10 years: Very well then, they say, natural
variability must be the cause. But as for the warming that did occur
in the 1980s and 1990s, that plainly was evidence of man-made warming.
Am I missing something here? --Brett Stephens, WSJ Opinion 12/09/09
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 23:49:23 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>Leon wrote:
>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> HeyBub wrote:
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>
>>
>>>
>>> My tub had a slope the wrong way when I bought the house. Rotted out
>>> quite
>>> a lot before I finally figured out what the problem was and fixed it.
>>>
>>
>> Your tub rotted?
>
>Nope. The wall, the floor, the joists, . . .
Gee, I'd have put the water in the TUB, not on the floor, J. No wonder
things went wonky on ya.
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 02:56:31 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more than
>1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went searching
>online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to the studs in
>walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm
>focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic version from
>about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as
>strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would anticipate also
>using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench
>on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that the
>workbench and vise should be level! I expect that a Starrett combination
>square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too in this regard--at
>least I should be able to see to it that the top of the bench and the top of
>the vise are coplanar. So based on the installations I have suggested
>above, what else do you think I need to know about selecting a level?
>Reliability is important, of course. I read somewhere that those with
>"caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I mentioned) have the
>potential to be less reliable.
>
>Thank you,
>Bill
>
I keep waiting for the sound of the reel letting out line.
Mike M
Robatoy wrote:
>>
>> A level is a dirt-simple device. Even the ancient Egyptians used
>> them.
>>
>> Unless you have need for some exotic attachement - perhaps you're a
>> surveyor - a fully functional level shouldn't cost more than about
>> three bucks.
>>
>> Here's a bag of marbles for 20¢
>> each.http://www.landofmarbles.com/sup346.html
>
> You're going to replace those you've lost? <G>
I lose 'em when things are not on the level.
I tried using half of a pair of dice.
That didn't work either.
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 23:13:15 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
scrawled the following:
>On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 14:51:30 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
>>>> than
>>>> 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
>>>> without one, which I ended up doing twice.
>>> ... snip
>>>
>>> While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are other
>>> times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel to
>>> the ceiling (for a flat ceiling). A good example is drapery rods --
>>> installing them level when the ceiling is not will make them look funny --
>>> you want them an equal distance from the ceiling.
>>
>>Thank you for mentioning this Rob. I've got a set of drapery rods and
>>curtains I need to install.
>>Surprisingly, it has been an intimidating project I have put off (lots of
>>strings, hooks, pleats, etc).
>>I started it one day and, based on unexcusably-poor directions, put it away
>>until I felt more enthusiastic.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>For stuff close to the ceiling I just use a tape measure unless it
>needs to work with gravity.
Ditto here, and I always verify that the window was installed level
before putting anything up. Working with old, homebuilt houses, I've
experienced a few "Mrs. Client, would you prefer that I hang the
drapes parallel to the window opening level -or- the ceiling level?"
and another one, "parallel with the closet frame or the closet door?"
when there was a 1" gap and the door was level and square, and the
frame was mudded and painted, no trim to hide it behind. <g> That last
one was a 1970s tract home in LoCal.
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
Bill wrote:
> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more than
> 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
> without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went searching
> online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to the studs in
> walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm
> focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic version from
> about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as
> strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would anticipate also
> using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench
> on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that the
> workbench and vise should be level! I expect that a Starrett combination
> square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too in this regard--at
> least I should be able to see to it that the top of the bench and the top of
> the vise are coplanar. So based on the installations I have suggested
> above, what else do you think I need to know about selecting a level?
> Reliability is important, of course. I read somewhere that those with
> "caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I mentioned) have the
> potential to be less reliable.
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
>
>
Can't decide if you're asking or telling. I have noticed that nearly
all the studs around here are non-magnetic or non-ferrous, being wood.
I am sure that a level with magnets, laser, ultrasonic rangefinder,
GPS and digital readout is more accurate than a wife looking over your
shoulder. And cheaper. But it will require those strange little child
choker batteries that go dead between projects
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
Pobody's Nerfect!
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 15:21:48 -0500, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 08:35:13 -0500, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
>>>> more than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just
>>>> the other day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So,
>>>> tonight I went searching online for a level. I assume that levels
>>>> with magnets stick to the studs in walls (is that correct?).
>>>
>>> Uhhh...no. Unless they are steel studs. Wood isn't magnetic.
>>> ___________
>>>
>>>
>>>> I know that the workbench and vise should be level!
>>>
>>> What for? The only possible reason I can think of is if you intend
>>> to buy HeyBub's bag of marbles, pour them out on the table and want
>>> them to stay there (they'll stay in the vise, level or not, if you
>>> close the jaws on them).
>
>> Having a level bench is a very good idea if you are fabricating on it
>> - you KNOW the bench is level, so if the assembly is level you also
>> know it is parrallel, and using a square with it, you also know if it
>> is square.
>
>Flat I can see, but level?
If it is not level, you can't check parallel with a level. To be
accurate you still nead to measure with a vernier, but for many
applications a level base, and a level to check the assembly, is
quick, easy, and effective.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>> "Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>> Swingman wrote:
>>>>>>> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
>>>>>>>> reasonably well.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
>>>>>>>> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
>>>>>>>> fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
>>>>>>>> next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
>>>>>>>> the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
>>>>>>> distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
>>>>>>> hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
>>>>>>> wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yep
>>>>>
>>>>> Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
>>>>> instance if you were
>>>>> building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
>>>>> when it's time for
>>>>> one of those laser levels, no?
>>>>
>>>> String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
>>>> accurate as a cheap laser level
>>>
>>> Good idea!
>>>
>>> --if you want to be precise use a garden hose
>>>> and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it
>>>
>>> Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
>>> Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end
>>> will always match! : )
>>> A lot of potential there: Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
>>> ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
>>> and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn
>>> that trick?
>>
>> Water levels have been around for ever.
>
> I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...
>
They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.
Hoosierpopi wrote:
> On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
> well.
>
> Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
> (and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
> and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
> repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
> marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.
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Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)