I've just bought my first couple of hundred feet of rough lumber
(great price, far far better than what I've been paying for S4S
stuff). I have a table saw, but I don't (yet) own a planer,
jointer, or bandsaw.
I can probably afford one of those three tools in the next month
or so...so which one should I go for? I was planning on getting
a bandsaw next, but given the sudden influx of rough lumber,
would I be wiser to put that off until next year and buy a
planer instead?
Thanks!
Nicholas
Nicholas,
Before you run off and buy another power tool you might want to
consider some neander methods. I know, I know -- power tools are
cool, right?! Well, they are -- I have a bunch of them and I love to
use them. But I still have a few left to buy. And quite frankly I
wish I would have run into the "power" of hand tools before hand.
Consider how much you can get in hand tools for the price of 1 power
tool! You'll need a scrub plane for high spots (takes wood off fast),
then a jack plane to get it flat, and a jointer to do the edges (and
top). If it were me, rather than buying a jointer "and" a planer
(you'll need both by the way), I'd spend my money on a few planes and
get just the planer. Just a thought anyway. Check out Steve Knight's
wood planes -- they're sweet (www.knight-toolworks.com). He even
might let you in on the 2day 1/2 price sale he just had this week (his
email is on his web site). You'll also want a sharpening setup (try
Lee Valley -- www.leevalley.com -- and look for the stone/guide combo
set for ~$50). You'll also need to build/buy a workbench with bench
dogs and vice(s) plans are everywhere) to hold the wood down.
Sounds complicated -- well, it is, I'll admit -- but for the money
(and the joy!) you'll be better off in my opinion (but that's all it
is -- and my favorite advice is "do what you want" ;)
Good luck, let us know what you do...
Mike
Nicholas Russon <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've just bought my first couple of hundred feet of rough lumber
> (great price, far far better than what I've been paying for S4S
> stuff). I have a table saw, but I don't (yet) own a planer,
> jointer, or bandsaw.
>
> I can probably afford one of those three tools in the next month
> or so...so which one should I go for? I was planning on getting
> a bandsaw next, but given the sudden influx of rough lumber,
> would I be wiser to put that off until next year and buy a
> planer instead?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Nicholas
Since these tools usually mean that you end up with a 12" jointer they would
be worth some serious consideration if they didn't cost as much as my
cabinet saw and any two other power tools in my shop.
Well, maybe someday.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> writes:
> [...]
>
> > The jointer performs the two most critical steps in the process (the
> > reference face and edge) but, with sufficient dicking around, there are
work
> > arounds. but, without the dicking around, the planer will not perform
the
> > functions of a jointer and the jointer will not perform the functions of
a
> > planer.
>
> There exist very useful combination machines that use the same cutter
> drum for jointing and planing, very useful if you want to process raw
> lumber without needing lots of shopspace and money. I used a Metabo
> machine with very satisfying effects, but a dust (ur rather chip)
> collection is very advisable, a simple small vacuum cleaner chokes
> immediately if the huge amount of chips comes in.
> --
> Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
> mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
> Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
> CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
I'll play your silly game, which tool is next?
Steps for truing stock.
Absolutely necessary. A flat face to work from, a reference face..
Joint (make flat and straight) one face (reference face) so you have
something to true (reference) the remaining three sides to. Not to be done
on a planer because the feed rollers will push out any warp and it will
reappear as the stock exits the planer. For the same reason use very little
down force when jointing.
Joint one edge with the reference face against the jointers fence. This will
give you a straight edge that is at 90 degrees to the reference face. Also
an edge to reference the next edge.,
Rip a second edge on the table saw with the reference face against the table
and the reference edge against the fence. Try to do it on the jointer and it
will give you a straight edge but not one necessarily parallel to the first
edge.
Now you can plane the piece to a proper thickness with the reference face
flat down on the planers feed table. Since the reference face is flat the
planer has no warp to press out so the face being planed will be not only be
flat but parallel to the reference face.
The jointer performs the two most critical steps in the process (the
reference face and edge) but, with sufficient dicking around, there are work
arounds. but, without the dicking around, the planer will not perform the
functions of a jointer and the jointer will not perform the functions of a
planer.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Nicholas Russon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've just bought my first couple of hundred feet of rough lumber
> (great price, far far better than what I've been paying for S4S
> stuff). I have a table saw, but I don't (yet) own a planer,
> jointer, or bandsaw.
>
> I can probably afford one of those three tools in the next month
> or so...so which one should I go for? I was planning on getting
> a bandsaw next, but given the sudden influx of rough lumber,
> would I be wiser to put that off until next year and buy a
> planer instead?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Nicholas
[email protected] (vmtw) wrote:
> I just paid $.40 a bf for some air dried cherry. It had
> dried for around 3-4 months. Will have to dry a few more
> months before I can use it, was your stuff dried? You will
> need a planer and a joiner unless you can find someone else
> to do it for you.
I paid Cdn$2.00 a bf for my cherry, which was significantly
cheaper than I'd ever seen it before. It's certainly been drying
for longer than 3-4 months, but I don't know whether it was air-
or kiln-dried (I didn't know enough to ask when I bought it).
I need to get some racking up in my basement and get the wood up
off the garage floor this weekend.
Nicholas Russon <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've just bought my first couple of hundred feet of rough lumber
> (great price, far far better than what I've been paying for S4S
> stuff). I have a table saw, but I don't (yet) own a planer,
> jointer, or bandsaw.
>
> I can probably afford one of those three tools in the next month
> or so...so which one should I go for? I was planning on getting
> a bandsaw next, but given the sudden influx of rough lumber,
> would I be wiser to put that off until next year and buy a
> planer instead?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Nicholas
I just paid $.40 a bf for some air dried cherry. It had dried for
around 3-4 months. Will have to dry a few more months before I can
use it, was your stuff dried? You will need a planer and a joiner
unless you can find someone else to do it for you.
Scott
O
>I can probably afford one of those three tools in the next month
>or so...so which one should I go for? I was planning on getting
>a bandsaw next, but given the sudden influx of rough lumber,
>would I be wiser to put that off until next year and buy a
>planer instead?
well if your low on money I would get a planer and a hand plane a jointer
planer. maybe a scrub plane too. with these you can true up the first side good
enough for the planer and then finish both sides.
got a twisted board us a scrub to flatten those twists and run the opposite
side through the planer. then run the second side through.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
"Nicholas Russon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've just bought my first couple of hundred feet of rough lumber
> (great price, far far better than what I've been paying for S4S
> stuff). I have a table saw, but I don't (yet) own a planer,
> jointer, or bandsaw.
>
> I can probably afford one of those three tools in the next month
> or so...so which one should I go for? I was planning on getting
> a bandsaw next, but given the sudden influx of rough lumber,
> would I be wiser to put that off until next year and buy a
> planer instead?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Nicholas
Yes.
The method I use to figure out the next tool is to do a project. I look at
what took the longest or the most effort, and get a tool which will take
care of that task. I don't like having a half a grand of tool that I won't
ever use. I also get a fine appreciation for what the tool is doing for me.
Michael
"Steve Knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> O
> >I can probably afford one of those three tools in the next month
> >or so...so which one should I go for? I was planning on getting
> >a bandsaw next, but given the sudden influx of rough lumber,
> >would I be wiser to put that off until next year and buy a
> >planer instead?
>
> well if your low on money I would get a planer and a hand plane a jointer
> planer. maybe a scrub plane too. with these you can true up the first side
good
> enough for the planer and then finish both sides.
> got a twisted board us a scrub to flatten those twists and run the
opposite
> side through the planer. then run the second side through.
>
> --
> Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
> Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
> See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
"Mike G" <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
> The jointer performs the two most critical steps in the process (the
> reference face and edge) but, with sufficient dicking around, there are work
> arounds. but, without the dicking around, the planer will not perform the
> functions of a jointer and the jointer will not perform the functions of a
> planer.
There exist very useful combination machines that use the same cutter
drum for jointing and planing, very useful if you want to process raw
lumber without needing lots of shopspace and money. I used a Metabo
machine with very satisfying effects, but a dust (ur rather chip)
collection is very advisable, a simple small vacuum cleaner chokes
immediately if the huge amount of chips comes in.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23