The only room I've got to play with is a 10x12 shed whose doors don't seal
very well. Except for my bicycle, I've ejected everything that isn't
shop-related, though I still tell the kids to "take this to the shed" about
half the time. :)
My spanking new (March-ish) drill press is starting to rust already. The
upper bit of the column is getting a light speckling, there are a few dots
on the chuck, and the moving bit of the, um, quill? is getting quite
disturbingly rusty.
I oiled everything down and used 0000 steel wool to buff out the rust, but
it's an on-going battle. Everything in my shop that isn't in the tool
cabinet wants to rust. Not fast rust, but I keep an old metal toolbox full
of clean motor oil and dunk/buff most of my tools periodically to stay on
top of things. (The cabinet isn't big enough to hold everything.)
So how do I put my drill press in a cabinet? Would a tarp help, or make
things worse? A wool blanket? Build a plywood box for the thing? :)
I seem to recall that this problem stems from moisture condensing out of the
air onto the cool metal surfaces....
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16397 Approximate word count: 1639700
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
The thing I did while I lived in a mobile home with no shop was to rent a
storage unit (several in my case) to store stuff until I had a place to put
it again. It was the best solution I had at the time. If you rent a large
enough storage unit, there could be some work done in it with the machines.
I even rented an additional one for a month while my wife and I swapped
engines in several cars to get me back mobiling again. Again, not the best
solution, but was the best at the time.
John from SC
<snip> <snip> etc.
> Thorny
> problem though what to do with all my stuff while I work on it or build a
> new one.
George wrote:
> That would rot the floor in good order, speeding the day you replace the
> shed.
Yes, of course it would. That was a stupid idea. :)
> You could just be SOL, though I think I'd get some friends and a railroad
> bar and explore other possibilities first.
Don't have any friends, and there really isn't any access to the bottom of
this thing. I'd have to excavate a lot of dirt. The people who built it
were seriously brain damaged. One side of it is a foot below ground. I
already cut the rotten wood off the bottom of that side and replaced it
with bricks and expanding foam, but the 4x4s that the thing sits on are
half buried, and probably half gone.
Even if I had some friends, it would probably disintegrate if picked it up.
Gonna need a new shed soon.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16450 Approximate word count: 1645000
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Silvan asks:
>The only room I've got to play with is a 10x12 shed whose doors don't seal
>very well. Except for my bicycle, I've ejected everything that isn't
>shop-related, though I still tell the kids to "take this to the shed" about
>half the time. :)
>
>My spanking new (March-ish) drill press is starting to rust already. The
>upper bit of the column is getting a light speckling, there are a few dots
>on the chuck, and the moving bit of the, um, quill? is getting quite
>disturbingly rusty.
>
>I oiled everything down and used 0000 steel wool to buff out the rust, but
>it's an on-going battle. Everything in my shop that isn't in the tool
>cabinet wants to rust. Not fast rust, but I keep an old metal toolbox full
>of clean motor oil and dunk/buff most of my tools periodically to stay on
>top of things. (The cabinet isn't big enough to hold everything.)
>
>So how do I put my drill press in a cabinet? Would a tarp help, or make
>things worse? A wool blanket? Build a plywood box for the thing? :)
>
>I seem to recall that this problem stems from moisture condensing out of the
>air onto the cool metal surfaces.
You're forgetting one step. Remove the oil, coat with non-silicone paste wax,
and buff it out. Do this at least twice if you've really got rust problems.
Then keep fairly good track of use, and when the wax starts to wear off,
re-coat.
Or you can try TopCote or Boeshield T-9. Both are more expensive than paste
wax, but you really don't need all that much unless you've got dozens updon
dozens of cast iron tools.
HTC makes a cover specifically targeted at tools. I've found mine to work
exceptionally well.
Charlie Self
Facts are stupid things.
Ronald Reagan
Silvan <[email protected]> wrote:
> The only room I've got to play with is a 10x12 shed whose doors don't seal
> very well. Except for my bicycle, I've ejected everything that isn't
> shop-related, though I still tell the kids to "take this to the shed" about
> half the time. :)
> My spanking new (March-ish) drill press is starting to rust already. The
> upper bit of the column is getting a light speckling, there are a few dots
> on the chuck, and the moving bit of the, um, quill? is getting quite
> disturbingly rusty.
> I oiled everything down and used 0000 steel wool to buff out the rust, but
> it's an on-going battle. Everything in my shop that isn't in the tool
> cabinet wants to rust. Not fast rust, but I keep an old metal toolbox full
> of clean motor oil and dunk/buff most of my tools periodically to stay on
> top of things. (The cabinet isn't big enough to hold everything.)
> So how do I put my drill press in a cabinet? Would a tarp help, or make
> things worse? A wool blanket? Build a plywood box for the thing? :)
> I seem to recall that this problem stems from moisture condensing out of the
> air onto the cool metal surfaces....
> --
> Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
> Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
> Confirmed post number: 16397 Approximate word count: 1639700
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
I use moving blankets to cover all my tools when I'm not in the shop. They
work great and were pretty cheap (~$7 each at Harbor Freight).
Lance
"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> (Meanwhile there's a gigantic industrial building across the street from
my
> house with 22,000 sq. ft. standing empty. Oh, if only I were better
> friends with that guy...)
Talk to him. It may be in his best interest to have your shop in there.
Insurance rates for a vacant building can be higher than one occupied.
Having some activity in the building can be a deterrent to vandalism.
Our company bought a 180,000 ft building. We let a few people use a
portion of it for that reason.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Could be he's forgetting his eighth grade Earth Science. When the tools are
cooler than the dewpoint, condensation forms. In order for this to happen,
there must be a source of warmer, saturated air. Dollars to dogturds it
comes from the ground underneath the shed. If you don't have one, get a
good vapor barrier.
Next is to attempt to minimize temperature differences by:
Circulation. If the air is kept in motion, it'll warm the tools faster.
Vents on the roof, maybe a fan might help.
Insulation. If the tools are contained in quiet air, they won't cool as
readily. Of course, if this air gets really moist, it makes things worse.
Just some stupid facts.
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >So how do I put my drill press in a cabinet? Would a tarp help, or make
> >things worse? A wool blanket? Build a plywood box for the thing? :)
> >
> >I seem to recall that this problem stems from moisture condensing out of
the
> >air onto the cool metal surfaces.
>
> You're forgetting one step. Remove the oil, coat with non-silicone paste
wax,
> and buff it out. Do this at least twice if you've really got rust
problems.
> Then keep fairly good track of use, and when the wax starts to wear off,
> re-coat.
>
> Or you can try TopCote or Boeshield T-9. Both are more expensive than
paste
> wax, but you really don't need all that much unless you've got dozens
updon
> dozens of cast iron tools.
>
> HTC makes a cover specifically targeted at tools. I've found mine to work
> exceptionally well.
>
> Charlie Self
>
> Facts are stupid things.
> Ronald Reagan
Silvan spaketh...
> The only room I've got to play with is a 10x12 shed whose doors don't
> seal very well.
> My spanking new (March-ish) drill press is starting to rust already.
I have a tool shed about the same size and it was always like a sauna. I
finally installed two small soffit vents ($1.50 each at the borg) vents on
either end of the gable, near the roof. The temperature stays 20 degrees
cooler and the humidity level is much lower.
The building is trapping moisture from the ground. Put down the vapor
barrier first, just 6 mil plastic on the ground is better than nothing, put
bricks or sand over it. Add the vents to allow any built up moisture to
escape. Good luck
--
McQualude
Silvan <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> The only room I've got to play with is a 10x12 shed whose doors don't
> seal very well. Except for my bicycle, I've ejected everything that
> isn't shop-related, though I still tell the kids to "take this to the
> shed" about half the time. :)
>
> My spanking new (March-ish) drill press is starting to rust already.
> The upper bit of the column is getting a light speckling, there are a
> few dots on the chuck, and the moving bit of the, um, quill? is
> getting quite disturbingly rusty.
>
> I oiled everything down and used 0000 steel wool to buff out the rust,
> but it's an on-going battle. Everything in my shop that isn't in the
> tool cabinet wants to rust. Not fast rust, but I keep an old metal
> toolbox full of clean motor oil and dunk/buff most of my tools
> periodically to stay on top of things. (The cabinet isn't big enough
> to hold everything.)
>
> So how do I put my drill press in a cabinet? Would a tarp help, or
> make things worse? A wool blanket? Build a plywood box for the
> thing? :)
>
> I seem to recall that this problem stems from moisture condensing out
> of the air onto the cool metal surfaces....
>
Camphor blocks. Most effective on tools in drawers/cabinets. But I
suppose you could use plastic sheeting/bags around the areas with a
block inside where other rust inhibitors dont last. Cheap to try...
http://www.camphorblocks.com/securestore/c154099.2.html
--
Dave W a.a.#1967
Silvan <[email protected]> wrote in news:aupiu-7s4.ln1
@giganator.family.lan:
> Dave W wrote:
>
>> Camphor blocks. Most effective on tools in drawers/cabinets. But I
>
> Hey, yeah! I knew about that, but had forgotten.
>
>> block inside where other rust inhibitors dont last. Cheap to try...
>
> Cheap indeed. Worth a shot. Thanks for jogging my memory!
>
Glad to help.
--
Dave W a.a.#1967
Lance Spaulding wrote:
> I use moving blankets to cover all my tools when I'm not in the shop.
> They work great and were pretty cheap (~$7 each at Harbor Freight).
That's a good idea. I work in the furniture business (delivering furniture
to stores by truck), so maybe I can shake my money maker at some horny old
funiture store owner and get her to give me some free moving blankes. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16468 Approximate word count: 494040
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Dave W wrote:
> Camphor blocks. Most effective on tools in drawers/cabinets. But I
Hey, yeah! I knew about that, but had forgotten.
> block inside where other rust inhibitors dont last. Cheap to try...
Cheap indeed. Worth a shot. Thanks for jogging my memory!
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16503 Approximate word count: 495090
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 01:31:37 -0400, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>The only room I've got to play with is a 10x12 shed whose doors don't seal
>very well. Except for my bicycle, I've ejected everything that isn't
>shop-related, though I still tell the kids to "take this to the shed" about
>half the time. :)
>
>My spanking new (March-ish) drill press is starting to rust already. The
>upper bit of the column is getting a light speckling, there are a few dots
>on the chuck, and the moving bit of the, um, quill? is getting quite
>disturbingly rusty.
>
>I oiled everything down and used 0000 steel wool to buff out the rust, but
>it's an on-going battle. Everything in my shop that isn't in the tool
>cabinet wants to rust. Not fast rust, but I keep an old metal toolbox full
>of clean motor oil and dunk/buff most of my tools periodically to stay on
>top of things. (The cabinet isn't big enough to hold everything.)
I get pretty good (and cheap) protection with Dexron ATF. Just slobber
it on with a rag. For some reason, I find it's several times more
effective than oil. Worth a try.
Barry lennox
Dave W wrote:
>> My spanking new (March-ish) drill press is starting to rust already.
>> The upper bit of the column is getting a light speckling, there are a
>> few dots on the chuck, and the moving bit of the, um, quill? is
>> getting quite disturbingly rusty.
Back in the days before stainless steel pistols were common, I used to keep a
blued .45 auto in my car under the seat. Even though the car was dry, rust used
to form on the heelstrap of my pistol unless I cleaned and reoiled it every few
days. That is, until I discovered Rig Grease.
Rig Grease is applied with a sheepskin pad *very* sparingly, and it leaves a
nice shine on metal. Once I started using it, I could leave my pistol under the
seat for many weeks before I needed to wipe it down again. Rust became a thing
of the past. Wonderful stuff.
Here it is 20 years later and I'm still using my original container of Rig
Grease. A little goes a long way...
To order a Rig Rag:
http://www.silencio.com/htfiles/accessories.html
To order Rig Universal Grease:
http://www.silencio.com/htfiles/chemicals.html
I see no reason why it wouldn't work on a drill press.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com
Chris Merrill wrote:
> Silvan wrote:
>> No permanent power either. I'm looking to remedy that RSN though.
>
> you can get solar-powered attic vent fans...
That's a good idea. For a space this small, one should do it.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16442 Approximate word count: 1644200
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
George wrote:
> One word - plastics.
>
> Even if you just lay it over the ground and hold it down with a bit of
> sand, it's a vapor barrier. I've got visqueen with boards on top, and a
well hole underneath. Steel is still in good shape.
I could put it on top of the floor, under all the tools maybe. No access to
the bottom of this thing.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16443 Approximate word count: 1644300
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
George wrote:
> Could be he's forgetting his eighth grade Earth Science. When the tools
I hated 8th grade earth science. Bad teacher. He was both creepy and
boring. I loved just about every other science class, but 8th grade earth
science is a black hole. I barely remember a thing about it.
I remember more from Dr. Mah's Biology 101 class, and that one was almost as
bad. "Ze subatomicaw pawticaw have sothing not doing wif ze hyedwofiwic
tawel of ze mowecuwes."
> there must be a source of warmer, saturated air. Dollars to dogturds it
> comes from the ground underneath the shed. If you don't have one, get a
> good vapor barrier.
Good idea. Also completely impossible. They built this stupid thing
straight on the ground. Eventually termites will finish it off, and then
I'll be able to justify buying a newer, bigger shed... um.... workshop.
> Next is to attempt to minimize temperature differences by:
> Circulation. If the air is kept in motion, it'll warm the tools faster.
> Vents on the roof, maybe a fan might help.
No permanent power either. I'm looking to remedy that RSN though.
> Insulation. If the tools are contained in quiet air, they won't cool as
> readily. Of course, if this air gets really moist, it makes things worse.
Insulation might help. The air inside stays at pretty much the same
relative humidity as the air outside though, and it has rained or snowed or
sleeted almost every day this year.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16426 Approximate word count: 1642600
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
: Silvan asks:
:
: >The only room I've got to play with is a 10x12 shed whose doors don't seal
: >very well. Except for my bicycle, I've ejected everything that isn't
: >shop-related, though I still tell the kids to "take this to the shed" about
: >half the time. :)
: >
: >My spanking new (March-ish) drill press is starting to rust already. The
: >upper bit of the column is getting a light speckling, there are a few dots
: >on the chuck, and the moving bit of the, um, quill? is getting quite
: >disturbingly rusty.
: >
: >I oiled everything down and used 0000 steel wool to buff out the rust, but
: >it's an on-going battle. Everything in my shop that isn't in the tool
: >cabinet wants to rust. Not fast rust, but I keep an old metal toolbox full
: >of clean motor oil and dunk/buff most of my tools periodically to stay on
: >top of things. (The cabinet isn't big enough to hold everything.)
: >
: >So how do I put my drill press in a cabinet? Would a tarp help, or make
: >things worse? A wool blanket? Build a plywood box for the thing? :)
: >
: >I seem to recall that this problem stems from moisture condensing out of the
: >air onto the cool metal surfaces.
:
: You're forgetting one step. Remove the oil, coat with non-silicone paste wax,
: and buff it out. Do this at least twice if you've really got rust problems.
: Then keep fairly good track of use, and when the wax starts to wear off,
: re-coat.
:
: Or you can try TopCote or Boeshield T-9. Both are more expensive than paste
: wax, but you really don't need all that much unless you've got dozens updon
: dozens of cast iron tools.
:
: HTC makes a cover specifically targeted at tools. I've found mine to work
: exceptionally well.
:
: Charlie Self
:
: Facts are stupid things.
: Ronald Reagan
:
:
:
:
:
:
Charlie I am glad you mentioned the HTC covers. I was looking at them and couldn't decide if they
were worth it or not.
Charlie Self wrote:
> You're forgetting one step. Remove the oil, coat with non-silicone paste
> wax, and buff it out. Do this at least twice if you've really got rust
> problems. Then keep fairly good track of use, and when the wax starts to
> wear off, re-coat.
I didn't mention it, but I do use wax. I keep a can of Johnson's and apply
it with steel wool. It wears off fast on anything that gets handled
though, like the drill press chuck, or its table.
> Or you can try TopCote or Boeshield T-9. Both are more expensive than
> paste wax, but you really don't need all that much unless you've got
> dozens updon dozens of cast iron tools.
I should look into something like that.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16427 Approximate word count: 1642700
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Silvan wrote:
> No permanent power either. I'm looking to remedy that RSN though.
you can get solar-powered attic vent fans...
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:uekdu-
> > Or you can try TopCote or Boeshield T-9. Both are more expensive than
> > paste wax, but you really don't need all that much unless you've got
> > dozens updon dozens of cast iron tools.
>
> I should look into something like that.
I used to use wax. One day the weather changed and the warm, damp air moved
into the garage. I could actually see the rust forming on the table saw top
over about 15 minutes. I dried it, waxed it, and it was better.
I switched to Top Cote and have not had a problem since. Best price for it
was Lee Valley.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome