Hello all,
I have been making things out of wood for profit for about 15 years.
I've just started making various wooden parts to use in woven baskets. Such
as handles, lids, bases, and legs. I make a lot of custom parts, where some
one will come in with a sample, and want something similar but with some
changes.
Two weeks ago, I made a handle out of 3/4 thk. oak. It was for in a wine
basket and had some very very very intricate scroll work in portions of the
handle. By intricate I mean the width of the remaining wood in some places
was as thin as 1/16th. I've done this quite frequently, but I am always
concerned that the oak will dry out, or get damp, expand or contract and the
1/16th. thk. scroll work will begin to crack. So immediately after I get it
finished, I spray on a couple coats of clear poly over it. Thus far I
haven't had any problems with cracking.
Anyway, the lady came and picked up her handles, and about an hour later
I get a call from her husband. He would like me to make a dozen more but he
doesn't want them to have poly. He said he would prefer shellac. Although
I've been doing this for a long time, I have never used any finish other
than - paint, a stain then poly, or just straight poly. I would like to
know if another finished would work in this application, and if so how do I
use it. Or at least lead me to a place where I can get information on the
process. I really don't have time to experiment with finishes that I never
used, but I would like to keep my customers happy.
And not to lead anyone into thinking I am a large company, when I say
customers I mean about 30 basket makers. Most of which do this as a hobby.
Thanks for your help.
Canned stuff isn't dewaxed which limits topcoating finishes. Some can
but many can't.
On Thu, 24 Jun 2004 22:24:47 GMT, "patrick conroy"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Robert Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> doesn't want them to have poly. He said he would prefer shellac. Although
>I'm a novice too - but I picked up a small can of Bulls Eye shellac
>(commonly found).
>[See http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=31]
>
>And played with it...
>I think you'll like it if you give it a quick try.
>
"Robert Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> doesn't want them to have poly. He said he would prefer shellac. Although
I'm a novice too - but I picked up a small can of Bulls Eye shellac
(commonly found).
[See http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=31]
And played with it...
I think you'll like it if you give it a quick try.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Canned stuff isn't dewaxed which limits topcoating finishes. Some can
> but many can't.
Really? I didn't know that - I thought Bulls Eye was dewaxed.
I'll re-read the label. Thx
On Fri, 25 Jun 2004 12:00:44 -0400, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Canned stuff isn't dewaxed which limits topcoating finishes.
Spray canned IS dewaxed.
Barry
On Thu, 24 Jun 2004 14:04:49 -0400, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Since it is a rather broad subject I'd suggest Bob Flexner's book
>"understanding wood finishes".
>
>Easy to read, easy to understand.
I've recommended the same book hundreds of times.
However! I think Jewitt's new book is better.
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561585920/qid=1088107786/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i1_xgl14/002-0339244-1032872?v=glance&s=books&n=507846>
Barry
Since it is a rather broad subject I'd suggest Bob Flexner's book
"understanding wood finishes".
Easy to read, easy to understand.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
[email protected]
www.heirloom-woods.net
Why does the Customer want shellac? If it is the look, you could
simulate the look with something that will stand up to wine better than
shellac. As for spraying, use what you like, thin it accordingly, and spray
it with something like a Preval aerosol sprayer. If you are really into it,
you can move up to some real spray equipment.
Good Luck.
"Robert Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello all,
> I have been making things out of wood for profit for about 15 years.
> I've just started making various wooden parts to use in woven baskets.
Such
> as handles, lids, bases, and legs. I make a lot of custom parts, where
some
> one will come in with a sample, and want something similar but with some
> changes.
> Two weeks ago, I made a handle out of 3/4 thk. oak. It was for in a
wine
> basket and had some very very very intricate scroll work in portions of
the
> handle. By intricate I mean the width of the remaining wood in some places
> was as thin as 1/16th. I've done this quite frequently, but I am always
> concerned that the oak will dry out, or get damp, expand or contract and
the
> 1/16th. thk. scroll work will begin to crack. So immediately after I get
it
> finished, I spray on a couple coats of clear poly over it. Thus far I
> haven't had any problems with cracking.
> Anyway, the lady came and picked up her handles, and about an hour
later
> I get a call from her husband. He would like me to make a dozen more but
he
> doesn't want them to have poly. He said he would prefer shellac. Although
> I've been doing this for a long time, I have never used any finish other
> than - paint, a stain then poly, or just straight poly. I would like to
> know if another finished would work in this application, and if so how do
I
> use it. Or at least lead me to a place where I can get information on the
> process. I really don't have time to experiment with finishes that I never
> used, but I would like to keep my customers happy.
> And not to lead anyone into thinking I am a large company, when I say
> customers I mean about 30 basket makers. Most of which do this as a hobby.
> Thanks for your help.
>
>
>
As is Zinssers Seal Coat and it is canned. Thanks for catching.
On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 01:54:49 GMT, B a r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 25 Jun 2004 12:00:44 -0400, "[email protected]"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Canned stuff isn't dewaxed which limits topcoating finishes.
>
>Spray canned IS dewaxed.
>
>Barry
www.homesteadfinishing.com has a discussion on selecting a finish, do
a search for the topic.
On Thu, 24 Jun 2004 17:32:53 GMT, "Robert Smith"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I get a call from her husband. He would like me to make a dozen more but he
>doesn't want them to have poly. He said he would prefer shellac. Although
>I've been doing this for a long time, I have never used any finish other
>than - paint, a stain then poly, or just straight poly. I would like to
>know if another finished would work in this application, and if so how do I
>use it. Or at least lead me to a place where I can get information on the
>process. I really don't have time to experiment with finishes that I never
>used, but I would like to keep my customers happy.
"Robert Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I really don't have time to experiment with finishes that I never
> used, but I would like to keep my customers happy.
Mr. Smith, your life is about to change. For many years I used poly because
it was easy, available, worked. This group turned me on to things like
shellac, Danish, Tung, varnish and boiled linseed oils. My use of Poly went
down about 90%. Try them and I'm betting you'll take some time to
experiment because your finished items will be so much nicer.
Check out what others have already told you.
Ed