I've had my dovetail jig for several months now. I feel comfortable
with through dovetails. Half blinds are more of an issue for me.
Other than trial and erro, how can the half-blind router bit be
adjusted to the correct depth? I'm trying to use the
mini half-blind jig and the depth gauge on the jig is setup, as
it had to be assembled from its packaging.
Also, when is the right side of the jig used? So far, all my
cutting has been from the left side and seems to me
the left side may have a purpose as it has dovetail
spaces for both sides. I suspect there may be a
use that would help make drawers earier than what
I'm doing.
Any other tips using a dovetail jig will be appreciated.
So far, I haven't made the perfect joint with it yet.
Something different seems to be off a bit with each
usage.
Otoe
On Thu, 31 Jul 2008 17:43:51 GMT, Pat Barber
<[email protected]> wrote:
>That's how dovetail jigs work.
>I have one like yours and my very first
>recommendation is to go buy a Freud
>dovetail bit.
>
>I must have cut a thousand samples not
>getting a decent joint when i first got
>the jig.
>
>Bought the Freud bit and my problems
>went away.
>
>The half blind joint requires
>several things to make a decent
>joint.
>
>(a) stock must be flat and correct
> thickness.
>
>(b) stock must be inserted in jig
> perfectly straight and flat.
>
>(c) depth of template must be perfect
>
>(d) depth of router bit must be perfect.
>
>(e) router bit must correct size for
> template.(PC bits are not)
>
>Oh....and you need a LOT of stock to
>practice on.
>
>PS: ALL stock for setup and final use
> MUST be the exact same thickness.
>
>You need the optional manual for uses
>of the other side.
>
>http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/
>
>Download Advanced Joint manual.
Thanks for the pointer to the advanced manual. I've started
reading it already.
Otoe
On Jul 31, 1:43=A0pm, Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
> That's how dovetail jigs work.
> I have one like yours and my very first
> recommendation is to go buy a Freud
> dovetail bit.
>
> I must have cut a thousand samples not
> getting a decent joint when i first got
> the jig.
>
> Bought the Freud bit and my problems
> went away.
>
> The half blind joint requires
> several things to make a decent
> joint.
>
> (a) stock must be flat and correct
> =A0 =A0 =A0thickness.
>
> (b) stock must be inserted in jig
> =A0 =A0 =A0perfectly straight and flat.
>
> (c) depth of template must be perfect
>
> (d) depth of router bit must be perfect.
>
> (e) router bit must correct size for
> =A0 =A0 =A0template.(PC bits are not)
>
> Oh....and you need a LOT of stock to
> practice on.
>
> PS: ALL stock for setup and final use
> =A0 =A0 =A0MUST be the exact same thickness.
>
> You need the optional manual for uses
> of the other side.
>
> http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/
>
> Download Advanced Joint manual.
>
>
>
> Otoe wrote:
> > I've had my dovetail jig for several months now. =A0I feel comfortable
> > with through dovetails. =A0Half blinds are more of an issue for me.- Hi=
de quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I agree with all of what Pat said but the router bit. I use the PC
bit but from what I've read on the wreck and elsewhere I'm lucky that
my PC bit is the right size. I'm actually typing and looking at a
monitor that is sitting on a stand made with the 4212. Half-blind
joints that fit tight on the first try. Again, lucky. Both my TS and
CMS needed adjustment 'out of the box' so maybe your jig does.
Set the bit depth via the instructions using the guide on the left
hand side.
test your joint
adjust bit height up or down as needed
cut another
once it fits use your bit to adjust the bit height guage for next time
don't give up! It is a great jig and *will* make nice tight fitting
joints.
If need be call PC
I recommended the Freud because the PC support
guy admitted that they did ship a batch of bits
out that were NOT the correct size by a couple
of thousands.(PC bits are Chinese made)
I'm not the only person who has run into this
problem.
> I agree with all of what Pat said but the router bit. I use the PC
> bit but from what I've read on the wreck and elsewhere I'm lucky that
> my PC bit is the right size.
>
That's how dovetail jigs work.
I have one like yours and my very first
recommendation is to go buy a Freud
dovetail bit.
I must have cut a thousand samples not
getting a decent joint when i first got
the jig.
Bought the Freud bit and my problems
went away.
The half blind joint requires
several things to make a decent
joint.
(a) stock must be flat and correct
thickness.
(b) stock must be inserted in jig
perfectly straight and flat.
(c) depth of template must be perfect
(d) depth of router bit must be perfect.
(e) router bit must correct size for
template.(PC bits are not)
Oh....and you need a LOT of stock to
practice on.
PS: ALL stock for setup and final use
MUST be the exact same thickness.
You need the optional manual for uses
of the other side.
http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/
Download Advanced Joint manual.
Otoe wrote:
> I've had my dovetail jig for several months now. I feel comfortable
> with through dovetails. Half blinds are more of an issue for me.
"Otoe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had my dovetail jig for several months now. I feel comfortable
> with through dovetails. Half blinds are more of an issue for me.
>
> Other than trial and erro, how can the half-blind router bit be
> adjusted to the correct depth? I'm trying to use the
> mini half-blind jig and the depth gauge on the jig is setup, as
> it had to be assembled from its packaging.
The PC jig may be a little different but for the most part blind DT's have
to use the same bit dept setting all the time. Each bit, even the same
sized, will have its "sweet spot" Trial and error is typically the only way
to find that sweet spot depth. Once you find that setting start at theat
dept every time. Hard woods will require a slightly different setting than
softer woods. To make a joint tighter, increase the depth of cut. To
loosen the fit, decrease the cutting depth. Additionally do not rotate the
router when cutting the joints. If you bit is not perfectly centered in the
guide bushing it will make wider and narrower cuts if you rotate
"Otoe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had my dovetail jig for several months now. I feel comfortable
> with through dovetails. Half blinds are more of an issue for me.
>
> Other than trial and erro, how can the half-blind router bit be
> adjusted to the correct depth? I'm trying to use the
> mini half-blind jig and the depth gauge on the jig is setup, as
> it had to be assembled from its packaging.
The PC jig may be a little different but for the most part blind DT's have
to use the same bit dept setting all the time. Each bit, even the same
sized, will have its "sweet spot" Trial and error is typically the only way
to find that sweet spot depth. Once you find that setting start at theat
dept every time. Hard woods will require a slightly different setting than
softer woods. To make a joint tighter, increase the depth of cut. To
loosen the fit, decrease the cutting depth. Additionally do not rotate the
router when cutting the joints. If you bit is not perfectly centered in the
guide bushing it will make wider and narrower cuts if you rotat the router
during the cutting operation.
>
> Also, when is the right side of the jig used? So far, all my
> cutting has been from the left side and seems to me
> the left side may have a purpose as it has dovetail
> spaces for both sides. I suspect there may be a
> use that would help make drawers earier than what
> I'm doing.
You use the other end of the jig to mirror the settings on the left side of
the jig. This is handy when cutting asymetrical joints.
"Otoe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had my dovetail jig for several months now. I feel comfortable
> with through dovetails. Half blinds are more of an issue for me.
>
> Other than trial and erro, how can the half-blind router bit be
> adjusted to the correct depth? I'm trying to use the
> mini half-blind jig and the depth gauge on the jig is setup, as
> it had to be assembled from its packaging.
The PC jig may be a little different but for the most part blind DT's have
to use the same bit dept setting all the time. Each bit, even the same
sized, will have its "sweet spot" Trial and error is typically the only way
to find that sweet spot depth. Once you find that setting start at theat
dept every time. Hard woods will require a slightly different setting than
softer woods. To make a joint tighter, increase the depth of cut. To
loosen the fit, decrease the cutting depth. Additionally do not rotate the
router when cutting the joints. If you bit is not perfectly centered in the
guide bushing it will make wider and narrower cuts if you rotat the router
during the cutting operation.
>
> Also, when is the right side of the jig used? So far, all my
> cutting has been from the left side and seems to me
> the left side may have a purpose as it has dovetail
> spaces for both sides. I suspect there may be a
> use that would help make drawers earier than what
> I'm doing.
You use the other end of the jig to mirror the settings on the left side of
the jig. This is handy when cutting asymetrical joints.
the router during the cutting operation.
>
> Also, when is the right side of the jig used? So far, all my
> cutting has been from the left side and seems to me
> the left side may have a purpose as it has dovetail
> spaces for both sides. I suspect there may be a
> use that would help make drawers earier than what
> I'm doing.
You use the other end of the jig to mirror the settings on the left side of
the jig. This is handy when cutting asymetrical joints.