I designated tomorrow as my day to paint the shop (using Zinnser 123
(interior) White).
As I was doing my final prep tonight, cleaning and covering, I realized
I wanted to paint the inside of the door leading outside too
Aside from its 3x3 panel window (really a single pane of glass, 1/4" I
think), it's a pretty plain door, previously painted.
I am thinking of getting a 1" nylon trim brush for the panels, but I
assume that the rest of the door should be painted with my 3" brush like
it was a faceframe of a cabinet.
I am also planning to put the Zinnser on my door moldings (previously
painted).
Does all of this sound appropriate? The door above has a screen door,
but I assume it would be more appropriate to use an "exterior" paint for
it. Still correct?
Thank you,
Bill
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>>
>> Yes once the ceiling is done and the cut-in of the walls is done it's
>> smooth sailing until you kick the paint tray. ;~)
>
> I bought a Purdy 4.5" mini-roller today to help cut-in the ceiling for
> the second coat. I expect to have to use a brush too, but it should
> be easier after I get some paint on the stiple! The largest knap I was
> able to get for the mini-roller was 1/2", but I am hopeful (I am using
> 3/4" knap roller to roll the ceiling). It will save hours of tedious work
> if it works as well as I hope it does.
>
> BTW, the Zinnster dries darn nice! Maybe nicer than I deserve! : )
> All of my drywall and ceiling has one coat now, though there are still
> other places to paint (door frames, door, attic door, etc.).
>
> The following is my main question for today though:
>
> I was picking at some dried paint runs, and produced
> "holes"--even deeper than I may have expected. Then I tried some 600 grit Wet or Dry,
> and observed that I could sand away paint runs without making holes. I
> rolled some more Zinnser over the area involved to cover my deeds.
>
> I intend to pursue whatever might need a little sanding, before I put on the 2nd coat.
>
> I noticed that some painters boast that they "sand before putting on a
> 2nd coat". Do they mean that they sand everything? Or do they mean that
> they sand imperfections like I described above?
>
> I never saw my dad sand any paint (expect varnish). I guess we didn't know any better.
>
> Bill
It is not necessary to sand a primer coat except to smooth out
imperfections. The closer to glossy your finish the more imperfections
show. This might be the primary reasons that walls are normally painted
with a flat finish coat.
On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 8:39:29 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> Yes once the ceiling is done and the cut-in of the walls is done it's smooth sailing until you kick the paint tray. ;~)
Reminds me, long ago - summer job between semesters of school-, I once stepped off the ladder and into the gallon of paint.... Chagrinned! Funny as hell for others, though.
Sonny
On Wed, 10 Jul 2013 03:22:09 -0400, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
> >
> > Yes once the ceiling is done and the cut-in of the walls is done it's
> smooth sailing until you kick the paint tray. ;~)
>
> I bought a Purdy 4.5" mini-roller today to help cut-in the ceiling for
> the second coat. I expect to have to use a brush too, but it should
> be easier after I get some paint on the stiple! The largest knap I was
> able to get for the mini-roller was 1/2", but I am hopeful (I am using
> 3/4" knap roller to roll the ceiling). It will save hours of tedious
> work if it works as well as I hope it does.
>
> BTW, the Zinnster dries darn nice! Maybe nicer than I deserve! : )
> All of my drywall and ceiling has one coat now, though there are still
> other places to paint (door frames, door, attic door, etc.).
>
> The following is my main question for today though:
>
> I was picking at some dried paint runs, and produced
> "holes"--even deeper than I may have expected. Then I tried some 600
> grit Wet or Dry,
> and observed that I could sand away paint runs without making holes. I
> rolled some more Zinnser over the area involved to cover my deeds.
>
> I intend to pursue whatever might need a little sanding, before I put on
> the 2nd coat.
>
> I noticed that some painters boast that they "sand before putting on a
> 2nd coat". Do they mean that they sand everything? Or do they mean
> that they sand imperfections like I described above?
Depends entirely on what I'm doing, on a workshop ceiling, fix the obvious
defects and move on. On a bath vanity, I would sand all over.
On ceilings and walls you can quickly get to the point of heavily
diminishing returns.
>
basilisk
Bill wrote:
> I haven't painted the back door yet, and for the last 10 minutes
> have been considering painting it a pale green (Color_F10 in
> SketchUp).
>
> I assume a "semi-gloss" sheen paint would look appropriate against
> the Zinsser white. Is there an easy way to tint the Zinsser 123 I
> have on hand or should I just go buy a quart of the color I want off
> the shelf (provided I can find it)?
--------------------------------------------
Why do you want to tint a primer?
The finish coat(s) are going to cover the primer anyway.
Lew
Tinting an undercoat helps protect the surface color.
Ever painted a color over pure white ? - or Black ?
it shows through.
They have dark sealers for dark paints.
Martin
On 7/29/2013 12:02 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> I haven't painted the back door yet, and for the last 10 minutes
>> have been considering painting it a pale green (Color_F10 in
>> SketchUp).
>>
>> I assume a "semi-gloss" sheen paint would look appropriate against
>> the Zinsser white. Is there an easy way to tint the Zinsser 123 I
>> have on hand or should I just go buy a quart of the color I want off
>> the shelf (provided I can find it)?
> --------------------------------------------
> Why do you want to tint a primer?
>
> The finish coat(s) are going to cover the primer anyway.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
On 7/6/2013 10:44 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> I designated tomorrow as my day to paint the shop (using Zinnser 123
> (interior) White).
>
> As I was doing my final prep tonight, cleaning and covering, I realized
> I wanted to paint the inside of the door leading outside too
>
> Aside from its 3x3 panel window (really a single pane of glass, 1/4" I
> think), it's a pretty plain door, previously painted.
>
> I am thinking of getting a 1" nylon trim brush for the panels, but I
> assume that the rest of the door should be painted with my 3" brush like
> it was a faceframe of a cabinet.
>
> I am also planning to put the Zinnser on my door moldings (previously
> painted).
>
> Does all of this sound appropriate? The door above has a screen door,
> but I assume it would be more appropriate to use an "exterior" paint for
> it. Still correct?
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
Bill I have painted a lot of houses and I am the guy that does all the
trim and detail work.
Use as big of a brush that will fit. I used to use small brushes and
very quickly learned that they don't hold enough paint to do squat.
If you simply use the 3~4" brush in a side ways motion you end up with a
3/4~1" wide brush that is 3~4" thick.
On 7/7/2013 10:02 AM, dpb wrote:
> On 7/7/2013 9:57 AM, Leon wrote:
> ...
>
>> Bill I have painted a lot of houses and I am the guy that does all the
>> trim and detail work.
>>
>> Use as big of a brush that will fit. I used to use small brushes and
>> very quickly learned that they don't hold enough paint to do squat.
>>
>> If you simply use the 3~4" brush in a side ways motion you end up with a
>> 3/4~1" wide brush that is 3~4" thick.
>
> But the keys imo for trim are twofold --
>
> a) It _has_ to be a high-quality brush, and
> b) It needs to be angle-cut, not straight.
>
Yes a good brush is essential.
It can be a straight brush, angle cut is better but certainly not necessary.
Straight cut will need to be cleaned a little more often if you are
doing a lot of cutting into corners.
It all sounds reasonable. Use whichever brushes are comfortable for you for the task at hand.
I would consider popping the hinge pins, removing the door and paint the bottom edge of the door, also. You want to make sure that bottom edge is sealed against moisture. Some folks like to paint behind the hinge plates, also.
Sonny
On 7/7/2013 10:37 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Thanks guys! I'm going to open the first can now. It's only been 30
>> years since I opened my last one.
>> They don't appear to have changed much, except the price! : ) Also,
>> more "spraying paraphernalia" in the stores.
>>
>
> Make sure to post some pictures Bill - preferably before and after. Always
> good to see how things move along. I'm that worst at that - I always think
> to take pictures after the fact...
>
Same here. I always rebuild tools and rarely have the before and
after... only the after. Wish I could remember to take interim pics too.
--
Jeff
On 7/7/2013 9:57 AM, Leon wrote:
...
> Bill I have painted a lot of houses and I am the guy that does all the
> trim and detail work.
>
> Use as big of a brush that will fit. I used to use small brushes and
> very quickly learned that they don't hold enough paint to do squat.
>
> If you simply use the 3~4" brush in a side ways motion you end up with a
> 3/4~1" wide brush that is 3~4" thick.
But the keys imo for trim are twofold --
a) It _has_ to be a high-quality brush, and
b) It needs to be angle-cut, not straight.
--
On 7/7/2013 10:11 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 7/7/2013 10:02 AM, dpb wrote:
>> On 7/7/2013 9:57 AM, Leon wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> Bill I have painted a lot of houses and I am the guy that does all the
>>> trim and detail work.
>>>
>>> Use as big of a brush that will fit. I used to use small brushes and
>>> very quickly learned that they don't hold enough paint to do squat.
>>>
>>> If you simply use the 3~4" brush in a side ways motion you end up with a
>>> 3/4~1" wide brush that is 3~4" thick.
>>
>> But the keys imo for trim are twofold --
>>
>> a) It _has_ to be a high-quality brush, and
>> b) It needs to be angle-cut, not straight.
>>
>
>
> Yes a good brush is essential.
>
> It can be a straight brush, angle cut is better but certainly not
> necessary.
...
It'll cut the time req'd down immeasurably, though. (Then again, all
the trim that's painted that I paint is nothing but either windows or
panel doors w/ a two-color pattern so there's very little that isn't
cutting in.)
If not doing windows (and/or you're one who just paints the glass then
cleans :) ) or if just single color on doors and frames it makes it much
less of an issue.
--
--
dpb wrote:
> On 7/7/2013 10:11 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 7/7/2013 10:02 AM, dpb wrote:
>>> On 7/7/2013 9:57 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> ...
>>>
>>>> Bill I have painted a lot of houses and I am the guy that does all the
>>>> trim and detail work.
>>>>
>>>> Use as big of a brush that will fit. I used to use small brushes and
>>>> very quickly learned that they don't hold enough paint to do squat.
>>>>
>>>> If you simply use the 3~4" brush in a side ways motion you end up
>>>> with a
>>>> 3/4~1" wide brush that is 3~4" thick.
>>>
>>> But the keys imo for trim are twofold --
>>>
>>> a) It _has_ to be a high-quality brush, and
>>> b) It needs to be angle-cut, not straight.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Yes a good brush is essential.
>>
>> It can be a straight brush, angle cut is better but certainly not
>> necessary.
> ...
>
> It'll cut the time req'd down immeasurably, though. (Then again, all
> the trim that's painted that I paint is nothing but either windows or
> panel doors w/ a two-color pattern so there's very little that isn't
> cutting in.)
>
> If not doing windows (and/or you're one who just paints the glass then
> cleans :) ) or if just single color on doors and frames it makes it
> much less of an issue.
>
I scraped the paint off of the window with a razor blade last night
after the person who painted it last!
Thanks guys! I'm going to open the first can now. It's only been 30
years since I opened my last one.
They don't appear to have changed much, except the price! : ) Also,
more "spraying paraphernalia" in the stores.
Bill
> --
>
> --
Bill wrote:
> Thanks guys! I'm going to open the first can now. It's only been 30
> years since I opened my last one.
> They don't appear to have changed much, except the price! : ) Also,
> more "spraying paraphernalia" in the stores.
>
Make sure to post some pictures Bill - preferably before and after. Always
good to see how things move along. I'm that worst at that - I always think
to take pictures after the fact...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Thanks guys! I'm going to open the first can now. It's only been 30
>> years since I opened my last one.
>> They don't appear to have changed much, except the price! : ) Also,
>> more "spraying paraphernalia" in the stores.
>>
> Make sure to post some pictures Bill - preferably before and after. Always
> good to see how things move along. I'm that worst at that - I always think
> to take pictures after the fact...
>
Thank you for your interest. I'll definitely post something. A picture
of me, after I came in today, would have been sort of interesting. I
only painted 4/5 of the ceiling today because "cutting-in" the paint on
the stiple ceiling is really time consuming. Most of the time seemed to
get eaten-up painting around 2 light fixtures and electric garage door
opener related hardware. Everything wasn't necessarily "easy to reach".
3 Comments:
-heavier milk gallon plastic jugs make handy containers for holding
paint while you're standing on a chair or ladder. Basically you cut
out the front 2/5 of it or so. Thanks dad.
-soaking the brush in water before use DOES prevent the capillary (right
word?)
action of the brush soaking up paint where it is impossible to get to
and makes
it easier to clean. This was the first time I tried it.
-The 2 feet on the paint tray are to keep it level--not to attach to my
ladder. The Internet helped set me straight on this one.
Compared to the ceiling the walls should be a joy to paint. More
exciting too, since that's where my new work is. 80-90% of the ceiling
looks pretty good after 1 coat of Zinnser. I'm getting about 250 ft^2
/gal. on the stiple ceiling including waste.
Bill
Leon wrote:
>
> Yes once the ceiling is done and the cut-in of the walls is done it's
smooth sailing until you kick the paint tray. ;~)
I bought a Purdy 4.5" mini-roller today to help cut-in the ceiling for
the second coat. I expect to have to use a brush too, but it should
be easier after I get some paint on the stiple! The largest knap I was
able to get for the mini-roller was 1/2", but I am hopeful (I am using
3/4" knap roller to roll the ceiling). It will save hours of tedious
work if it works as well as I hope it does.
BTW, the Zinnster dries darn nice! Maybe nicer than I deserve! : )
All of my drywall and ceiling has one coat now, though there are still
other places to paint (door frames, door, attic door, etc.).
The following is my main question for today though:
I was picking at some dried paint runs, and produced
"holes"--even deeper than I may have expected. Then I tried some 600
grit Wet or Dry,
and observed that I could sand away paint runs without making holes. I
rolled some more Zinnser over the area involved to cover my deeds.
I intend to pursue whatever might need a little sanding, before I put on
the 2nd coat.
I noticed that some painters boast that they "sand before putting on a
2nd coat". Do they mean that they sand everything? Or do they mean
that they sand imperfections like I described above?
I never saw my dad sand any paint (expect varnish). I guess we didn't
know any better.
Bill
basilisk wrote:
> On Wed, 10 Jul 2013 03:22:09 -0400, Bill wrote:
>
> I noticed that some painters boast that they "sand before putting on a
> 2nd coat". Do they mean that they sand everything? Or do they mean
> that they sand imperfections like I described above?
> Depends entirely on what I'm doing, on a workshop ceiling, fix the obvious
> defects and move on. On a bath vanity, I would sand all over.
Good example. Thank you for the lesson!
Bill
>
> On ceilings and walls you can quickly get to the point of heavily
> diminishing returns.
> basilisk
Bill wrote:
>
> I designated tomorrow as my day to paint the shop (using Zinsser 123
> (interior) White).
> <snip>
> Thank you,
> Bill
With a few minor exceptions, I've painted everything with 2 coats of
Zinsser 123 paint and am extremely satisfied with its coverage.
I haven't painted the back door yet, and for the last 10 minutes have
been considering painting it a pale green (Color_F10 in SketchUp).
I assume a "semi-gloss" sheen paint would look appropriate against the
Zinsser white. Is there an easy way to tint the Zinsser 123 I have on
hand or should I just go buy a quart of the color I want off the shelf
(provided I can find it)?
I assume one coat of Zinsser (primer), so that would amount to 3 more
coats on the (inside of the ) door.
Please correct me wherever necessary! : )
Thank you,
Bill
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> I haven't painted the back door yet, and for the last 10 minutes
>> have been considering painting it a pale green (Color_F10 in
>> SketchUp).
>>
>> I assume a "semi-gloss" sheen paint would look appropriate against
>> the Zinsser white. Is there an easy way to tint the Zinsser 123 I
>> have on hand or should I just go buy a quart of the color I want off
>> the shelf (provided I can find it)?
> --------------------------------------------
> Why do you want to tint a primer?
>
> The finish coat(s) are going to cover the primer anyway.
>
> Lew
>
It was recommended here to try the Zinsser 123 as both a primer and a
finish coat, and I can't complain about the result. 2 coats covered
every one of my many pencil marks (1 coat didn't).
As for the door, at this point I'm seeking "pale green". I've been
browsing online and I'm not sure which particular paint to use yet. I
never bought "custom" paint before and I doubt anyone will be excited to
sell me a quart.
Thanks,
Bill
>
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> I haven't painted the back door yet, and for the last 10 minutes
>>> have been considering painting it a pale green (Color_F10 in
>>> SketchUp).
>>>
>>> I assume a "semi-gloss" sheen paint would look appropriate against
>>> the Zinsser white. Is there an easy way to tint the Zinsser 123 I
>>> have on hand or should I just go buy a quart of the color I want off
>>> the shelf (provided I can find it)?
>> --------------------------------------------
>> Why do you want to tint a primer?
>>
>> The finish coat(s) are going to cover the primer anyway.
>>
>> Lew
>>
> It was recommended here to try the Zinsser 123 as both a primer and a finish coat, and I can't
> complain about the result. 2 coats covered every one of my many pencil marks (1 coat didn't).
>
> As for the door, at this point I'm seeking "pale green". I've been browsing online and I'm not
> sure which particular paint to use yet. I never bought "custom" paint before and I doubt anyone
> will be excited to sell me a quart.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
Have you checked with Ace HW? My local one sells custom colors in
quarts for about 1/3 the price of a gallon.
Art
Artemus wrote:
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> I haven't painted the back door yet, and for the last 10 minutes
>>>> have been considering painting it a pale green (Color_F10 in
>>>> SketchUp).
>>>>
>>>> I assume a "semi-gloss" sheen paint would look appropriate against
>>>> the Zinsser white. Is there an easy way to tint the Zinsser 123 I
>>>> have on hand or should I just go buy a quart of the color I want off
>>>> the shelf (provided I can find it)?
>>> --------------------------------------------
>>> Why do you want to tint a primer?
>>>
>>> The finish coat(s) are going to cover the primer anyway.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>>
>> It was recommended here to try the Zinsser 123 as both a primer and a finish coat, and I can't
>> complain about the result. 2 coats covered every one of my many pencil marks (1 coat didn't).
>>
>> As for the door, at this point I'm seeking "pale green". I've been browsing online and I'm not
>> sure which particular paint to use yet. I never bought "custom" paint before and I doubt anyone
>> will be excited to sell me a quart.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>>
> Have you checked with Ace HW? My local one sells custom colors in
> quarts for about 1/3 the price of a gallon.
> Art
>
>
Thank you for that information. I have an Ace Hardware not to far out
of my local zone. The other one we had closed 4 years ago--perhaps
competition from Home Depot, Menards, and Lowes was too much. The small
True Value is still (somehow) hanging in there.
Bill
woodchucker wrote:
> On 7/29/2013 1:19 AM, Bill wrote:
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> I haven't painted the back door yet, and for the last 10 minutes
>>>> have been considering painting it a pale green (Color_F10 in
>>>> SketchUp).
>>>>
>>>> I assume a "semi-gloss" sheen paint would look appropriate against
>>>> the Zinsser white. Is there an easy way to tint the Zinsser 123 I
>>>> have on hand or should I just go buy a quart of the color I want off
>>>> the shelf (provided I can find it)?
>>> --------------------------------------------
>>> Why do you want to tint a primer?
>>>
>>> The finish coat(s) are going to cover the primer anyway.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>>
>> It was recommended here to try the Zinsser 123 as both a primer and a
>> finish coat, and I can't complain about the result. 2 coats covered
>> every one of my many pencil marks (1 coat didn't).
>>
>> As for the door, at this point I'm seeking "pale green". I've been
>> browsing online and I'm not sure which particular paint to use yet. I
>> never bought "custom" paint before and I doubt anyone will be excited to
>> sell me a quart.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>>
>>>
>>
> Bill you goto any store and they will mix 1 quart.
>
> You've led a cloistered life..
>
I only said I didn't expect them to be excited about it--not that I
couldn't get someone to do it. : )
Yes, I've went from state-to-state and from one 1-bedroom apartment to
another
until I joined this newsgroup and got married. But before today, in all
that time, I never ran into the word "cloistered".
Being somewhat of a R.S. fan, part of me wants to "paint it black". If
only it were red.
Bill
On 7/29/2013 1:19 AM, Bill wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> I haven't painted the back door yet, and for the last 10 minutes
>>> have been considering painting it a pale green (Color_F10 in
>>> SketchUp).
>>>
>>> I assume a "semi-gloss" sheen paint would look appropriate against
>>> the Zinsser white. Is there an easy way to tint the Zinsser 123 I
>>> have on hand or should I just go buy a quart of the color I want off
>>> the shelf (provided I can find it)?
>> --------------------------------------------
>> Why do you want to tint a primer?
>>
>> The finish coat(s) are going to cover the primer anyway.
>>
>> Lew
>>
> It was recommended here to try the Zinsser 123 as both a primer and a
> finish coat, and I can't complain about the result. 2 coats covered
> every one of my many pencil marks (1 coat didn't).
>
> As for the door, at this point I'm seeking "pale green". I've been
> browsing online and I'm not sure which particular paint to use yet. I
> never bought "custom" paint before and I doubt anyone will be excited to
> sell me a quart.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
>>
>
Bill you goto any store and they will mix 1 quart.
You've led a cloistered life..
--
Jeff
On 7/7/2013 10:44 PM, Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks guys! I'm going to open the first can now. It's only been 30
>>> years since I opened my last one.
>>> They don't appear to have changed much, except the price! : ) Also,
>>> more "spraying paraphernalia" in the stores.
>>>
>> Make sure to post some pictures Bill - preferably before and after.
>> Always
>> good to see how things move along. I'm that worst at that - I always
>> think
>> to take pictures after the fact...
>>
> Thank you for your interest. I'll definitely post something. A picture
> of me, after I came in today, would have been sort of interesting. I
> only painted 4/5 of the ceiling today because "cutting-in" the paint on
> the stiple ceiling is really time consuming. Most of the time seemed to
> get eaten-up painting around 2 light fixtures and electric garage door
> opener related hardware. Everything wasn't necessarily "easy to reach".
>
> 3 Comments:
>
> -heavier milk gallon plastic jugs make handy containers for holding
> paint while you're standing on a chair or ladder. Basically you cut
> out the front 2/5 of it or so. Thanks dad.
>
> -soaking the brush in water before use DOES prevent the capillary (right
> word?)
> action of the brush soaking up paint where it is impossible to get to
> and makes
> it easier to clean. This was the first time I tried it.
That is true with any type paint, oil or water based.
Now if you are really looking for easy brush clean up use OIL based
paint. Soap and water take 10 times longer than paint thinner/mineral
spirits to clean a brush.
>
> -The 2 feet on the paint tray are to keep it level--not to attach to my
> ladder. The Internet helped set me straight on this one.
Well actually some trays are meant for both if the feet have notches to
catch the ladder paint tray.
Now if you really want to speed things up, there are roller trays that
look like waste baskets. You can put a whole gallons of paint in those
instead of a quart or so. With the smaller trays you tend to spend half
your time refilling the tray. The larger paint bucket trays have
handles and are easily carried around as you progress down the wall.
>
> Compared to the ceiling the walls should be a joy to paint. More
> exciting too, since that's where my new work is. 80-90% of the ceiling
> looks pretty good after 1 coat of Zinnser. I'm getting about 250 ft^2
> /gal. on the stiple ceiling including waste.
>
> Bill
>
Yes once the ceiling is done and the cut-in of the walls is done it's
smooth sailing until you kick the paint tray. ;~)