Folks -
Santa's elf needs to distress some redwood for keepsake boxes, and doing it
with a wire wheel mounted on the lathe headstock to "sandblast" it seemed
like a good idea... but there are some hazards..
I got to thinking, could I mount the wire wheel on the tablesaw arbor, with
an appropriate zero or nearly zero clearance plate and "rip" my lengths of
stock with the wheel projecting say, 1/4" above the table? I have board
buddies to use for hold downs and I think I'd get a more consistent texture
on the boards.
If the wheel is covered by the board, I'm using board buddies to hold the
board firmly, and am wearing safety equipment, what might I be missing,
other than the grey matter that I've been after for years?
The wheel is rated for 6000 rpm, the arbor runs about 4,000. Does this seem
like an okay idea or will my last words be "hey y'all, watch this!"?
John Moorhead
but you can bet that the clearance plate will be REAL clean.
martin caskey
millers island, maryland
Roy Smith wrote:
> John Moorhead <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Folks -
...
> >I got to thinking, could I mount the wire wheel on the tablesaw
arbor, with
> >an appropriate zero or nearly zero clearance plate...
...
> I'm not sure about the zero clearance plate. Wires tend to spread,
> and what looked like sufficient clearance during setup may not be
when
> you get going.
Fri, Dec 10, 2004, 4:40pm (EST+5) [email protected]
(John=A0Moorhead) claims:
Folks -
Santa's elf needs to distress some redwood <snip>
Sounds like Santa's Elf still has that problem with the eggnog.
You want to distress it, let a pack of kids play with it for a day.
Personally, I don't see "distressing" something new. I would
imagine the wood was pretty well distressed already, just by being cut
down. The Woodworking Gods agree.
If you want something to look "old", I'd say use old, used,
reclaimed, wood. Or, alternately, lay some new boards out in the open,
until they get weathered enough for you. But, IF I was going to do such
a horrible thing to an innocent piece of wood, I'd probably opt to use a
variable speed drill, maybe with a wire brush. If you want to use
paint, you can try wiping the wet paint with crumpled paper. Or,
hitting it some with sandpaper, when it's dry. A short google will turn
up all sorts of ways to do it.
My mind just can't quite grasp the reasoning behind "distressing"
projects. Yeah, I could do it, and probably well; actually, I've read
quite a bit about the different techniques used; but, I want whatever I
make to look nice; after all, it isn't an antique, so I don't want to
even try to make it look old. Over time it'll get beaten up a bit,
sure, but it'll have earned it's old look by then.
JOAT
Remember: Nova is Avon, spelled backwards.
On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 17:25:44 GMT, Searcher <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Before you start could you set up a video cam, Oh Just in case of course.
Yup, please have your survivors post the video.
> My opinion: Those wire wheels come apart awfully damn fast, I am constantly
> cleaning up wire shards after using my bench grinder w/wire wheel. I do have
> an angle grinder that has a wire wheel attachement with it, maybe that would
> work for you. It's much safer. Got it at Martha Sears for about 30 bucks.
> Good luck and keep that camera rolling cause its all real TV
These things have a max speed rating. The grinder has a speed rating.
If A is greater than B, fine. If B is greater than A, don't do it.
Sandman <[email protected]> writes:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] (Scott Lurndal) wrote:
>
>> >
>> >Could a wire wheel in a TS be any less safe than those moulding
>> >cutters.. you know the ones...with that windy humming sound...
>> >With the safety precautions mentioned previously, I really see nothing
>> >wrong with the concept. You can even set the depth of 'cut'. Age a
>> >little, age a lot.
>> >
>> >And yet.....why does it 'feel' wrong?
>>
>> Dunno - what is the tangential velocity of an inch long steel
>> needle flying off a 5000RPM 8" diameter wire brush?
>>
>> scott
>
>Maximum 8" diam x pi x5000 /60/12 = 174 fps
>The diameter of the hub is MUCH smaller than that.
>Consider a mass , <1 gram.
>What's it going to penetrate assuming it is flying in a perfectly linear
Dunno. But I can relate seeing a piece of straw embedded half-way
through a living oak tree after a tornado, so I, personally, wouldn't
try the wire brush on a tablesaw. (If I've done my calcs correctly, 100mph
equates to 146 fps, so that 174 fps is pretty damn fast (circa 118mph)).
The hub on a 8" wire brush would be circa 5.5-6" in diameter (my 6" brush
has a 3.5" hub). Call it 130fps still in the 90+mph range.
scott
>fashion? (Of course the eye-ball could possibly be bothered by something
>like that, hence the face shield.) What are the odds of it flying off in
>one's direction as opposed to the other 359 degrees on the compass?
>
>I can't believe I'm writing all this bullshit.
>
>My apologies.
>
>*G*
"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> A am doing about a dozen boxes, and am trying to work efficiently and
> safely. As for the face shield, Lordy.... I *almost* look like the guy on
> the back of sheet sandpaper - face shield, my regular glasses, a
> respirator, hearing protection * and the excalibur guard. I have so much
> eye protection I have to *feel* around to see where the blade is! D'oH!
>
What? No cup/codpiece? Don't you know what is really important?
Frank
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 23:21:59 GMT, [email protected] (Scott Lurndal)
> wrote:
>
> >Dunno - what is the tangential velocity of an inch long steel
> >needle flying off a 5000RPM 8" diameter wire brush?
>
> Less than it is flying off my angle grinder wire brushes. Admittedly
> they _do_ penetrate flesh. So long as the shaft speed doesn't exceed
> rated wheel speed, then flung bristles aren't the problem.
>
> I wouldn't use a wire wheel in a table saw, simply because it's an
> awkward arrangement. When I use a wire wheel I like to have it
> directly under my hand, not reaching over a couple of feet towards it.
> Using it in a table saw would make it impossible to control the
> downward force properly - unlike a sawblade a wire brush's force is
> almost entirely tangential from the top surface, not the lower edge,
> and so this is almost guaranteed to start throwing timber at you.
>
I wouldn't use one on a table saw either, but that's because a drill motor
will do a better job most of the time and the bench grinder will also.
But... as to the dangers, well... pushing a piece of wood into a spinning
wire wheel on a table saw is not really any different than using the wire
wheel on a grinder. Directly under your hand would not be a good place for
a wire wheel. It's going to continually try to push the piece upwards. At
least on the table saw you have plenty of control by simply pushing down on
the workpiece.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, "John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Folks -
>
>Santa's elf needs to distress some redwood for keepsake boxes, and doing it
>with a wire wheel mounted on the lathe headstock to "sandblast" it seemed
>like a good idea... but there are some hazards..
That's a candidate for the "Understatement of the Week" award. :-)
>
>I got to thinking, could I mount the wire wheel on the tablesaw arbor, with
>an appropriate zero or nearly zero clearance plate and "rip" my lengths of
>stock with the wheel projecting say, 1/4" above the table? I have board
>buddies to use for hold downs and I think I'd get a more consistent texture
>on the boards.
Sounds a *lot* safer than using a lathe.
>
>If the wheel is covered by the board, I'm using board buddies to hold the
>board firmly, and am wearing safety equipment, what might I be missing,
>other than the grey matter that I've been after for years?
You didn't mention push blocks. I don't think I'd want my hands too close to
that. Roll up your sleeves, too, and stand off to the side.
Make sure to blow the trunnions and adjusting mechanisms clean with compressed
air after you're finished. Those wire wheels tend to lose bristles at an
alarming rate.
>
>The wheel is rated for 6000 rpm, the arbor runs about 4,000. Does this seem
>like an okay idea or will my last words be "hey y'all, watch this!"?
Or maybe, "Here, hold my beer." :-)
Sounds ok to me, given enough safety precautions.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
I have not even taken the wire cup out of the package, so THANK YOU for the
warning. I am actually using the angle grinder on a gun safe that I am
building and have had no complaints as of yet. Just by looking at the wire
cup I thinks to myself, this looks pretty tough, and put it back in the box.
The last I saw it it was still there. I really have no use for the wire cup.
But, with you post, I thinks me will look for another brand. Thanks
Searcher1
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Searcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:s_kud.2373$Zn6.1240@trnddc08...
>>
>> Before you start could you set up a video cam, Oh Just in case of course.
>> My opinion: Those wire wheels come apart awfully damn fast, I am
> constantly
>> cleaning up wire shards after using my bench grinder w/wire wheel. I do
> have
>> an angle grinder that has a wire wheel attachement with it, maybe that
> would
>> work for you. It's much safer. Got it at Martha Sears for about 30 bucks.
>> Good luck and keep that camera rolling cause its all real TV
>>
> Just a word of caution.
>
> I bought a sears angle grinder and a cup wire brush to clean up some
> metal.
> It was a small job. Just smooth off some surface discoloration. Just
> enough
> to make a dull surface shiny again, Not heavy rust or anything.
>
> That Sears cup brush totally wore away. It not only threw bristles all
> over
> the place but the bristles themselves wore down to the nub. I have used
> makita before. They lasted at least twenty time longer than the Sears
> crap.
> I paid $15 for a wire cup brush and it wore out completely in less than an
> hour. My old makita brushes literally lasted for years and years of
> occaisional use. I would say at least 60 hours. And they were still good
> for
> many more hours.
>
> I got the Sears angle grinder on a closeout and got a good price. I did
> not
> expect to use it that much. I didn't know that I was going to pay far more
> for supplies.
>
> And the Sears angle grinder was harder to hold and control than the
> makita.
> You get what you pay for. Not just in the original tool, but in the
> supplies
> as well.
>
>
>
>
"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Folks -
>
> Santa's elf needs to distress some redwood for keepsake boxes, and
> doing it with a wire wheel mounted on the lathe headstock to
> "sandblast" it seemed like a good idea... but there are some
> hazards..
>
> I got to thinking, could I mount the wire wheel on the tablesaw arbor,
> with an appropriate zero or nearly zero clearance plate and "rip" my
> lengths of stock with the wheel projecting say, 1/4" above the table?
> I have board buddies to use for hold downs and I think I'd get a more
> consistent texture on the boards.
>
> If the wheel is covered by the board, I'm using board buddies to hold
> the board firmly, and am wearing safety equipment, what might I be
> missing, other than the grey matter that I've been after for years?
>
> The wheel is rated for 6000 rpm, the arbor runs about 4,000. Does
> this seem like an okay idea or will my last words be "hey y'all, watch
> this!"?
>
> John Moorhead
>
>
You're planning to do this on that sweet General tablesaw you were gloating
on last year? What did it ever do to p@$$ you off?
Just how many keepsake boxes was Santa's elf planning on doing, anyway?
I think I'd start with a wheel chucked into a tailed handheld drill motor.
The low angle grinder idea has appeal, but my DeWalt can be pretty
aggressive, and thrilling to control.
Maybe dig out that face shield that you're 'sposed to have for the lathe
work, too.
Patriarch,
wondering if John ran this idea by Rose first...
Patriarch -
Heaven, no! The saw has done NOTHING to piss me off... Heck, it's got a
welter of new blades, excalibur guard, splitter, board buddies, dust
collection... it's had a better year than I have, almost... The way I look
at it, if I use the wire wheel on the saw, I am getting to spend MORE time
with it.
A am doing about a dozen boxes, and am trying to work efficiently and
safely. As for the face shield, Lordy.... I *almost* look like the guy on
the back of sheet sandpaper - face shield, my regular glasses, a respirator,
hearing protection * and the excalibur guard. I have so much eye protection
I have to *feel* around to see where the blade is! D'oH!
I tried the drill before the lathe. I was hoping to get these done before
Groundhog Day, hence the Lathe idea... then last night I had the idea about
using the saw...
Cheers,
John
...
"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I tried the drill before the lathe. I was hoping to get these done before
> Groundhog Day, hence the Lathe idea... then last night I had the idea
about
> using the saw...
>
Yeahbut, if you'd have just stuck with the drill you'd have been done by
now.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
You won't be blasting for long. Heck if you bought a good pancake
compressor it would work for a small project. Blast a little and wait.
No friends with bigger compressors?
"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote:
>JOAT -
>
>I am using reclaimed wood, it just isn't "old" yet... as for the pros and
>cons of distressing the wood, as with any finish, is subjective. I did one
>small mock-up of the box with smooth sides, and another with the textured
>sides with the wire wheel. I liked it, and that's good enough for me.
>Redwood is *so* soft anyway, that a fingerprint nearly dents it, so I am
>beating it to the punch.
>
>As for the earlier post about sandblasting, my compressor isn't big enough
>to run one and rental is nearly $150 a day....
>
>John Moorhead
>
John Moorhead <[email protected]> wrote:
>Folks -
>
>Santa's elf needs to distress some redwood for keepsake boxes, and doing it
>with a wire wheel mounted on the lathe headstock to "sandblast" it seemed
>like a good idea... but there are some hazards..
>
>I got to thinking, could I mount the wire wheel on the tablesaw arbor, with
>an appropriate zero or nearly zero clearance plate and "rip" my lengths of
>stock with the wheel projecting say, 1/4" above the table? I have board
>buddies to use for hold downs and I think I'd get a more consistent texture
>on the boards.
>
>If the wheel is covered by the board, I'm using board buddies to hold the
>board firmly, and am wearing safety equipment, what might I be missing,
>other than the grey matter that I've been after for years?
>
>The wheel is rated for 6000 rpm, the arbor runs about 4,000. Does this seem
>like an okay idea or will my last words be "hey y'all, watch this!"?
>
>John Moorhead
>
>
I'm not sure about the zero clearance plate. Wires tend to spread,
and what looked like sufficient clearance during setup may not be when
you get going.
John:
I'm not sure I'd want to put my table saw through such a thing, but that's
only me.
As an alternative, have you considered sandblasting? Even if you don't have
a rig, they can often be had inexpensively, or rented. Sandblasting is the
method used to make those nifty redwood "weathered" texture signs. Ofcourse
they now use a man-made board instead of the redwood, but they still
sandblast them.
Good luck.
Jim Ray, President
McFeely's Square Drive Screws
www.mcfeelys.com
"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Folks -
>
> Santa's elf needs to distress some redwood for keepsake boxes, and doing
it
> with a wire wheel mounted on the lathe headstock to "sandblast" it seemed
> like a good idea... but there are some hazards..
>
> I got to thinking, could I mount the wire wheel on the tablesaw arbor,
with
> an appropriate zero or nearly zero clearance plate and "rip" my lengths of
> stock with the wheel projecting say, 1/4" above the table? I have board
> buddies to use for hold downs and I think I'd get a more consistent
texture
> on the boards.
>
> If the wheel is covered by the board, I'm using board buddies to hold the
> board firmly, and am wearing safety equipment, what might I be missing,
> other than the grey matter that I've been after for years?
>
> The wheel is rated for 6000 rpm, the arbor runs about 4,000. Does this
seem
> like an okay idea or will my last words be "hey y'all, watch this!"?
>
> John Moorhead
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Scott Lurndal) wrote:
> >
> >Could a wire wheel in a TS be any less safe than those moulding
> >cutters.. you know the ones...with that windy humming sound...
> >With the safety precautions mentioned previously, I really see nothing
> >wrong with the concept. You can even set the depth of 'cut'. Age a
> >little, age a lot.
> >
> >And yet.....why does it 'feel' wrong?
>
> Dunno - what is the tangential velocity of an inch long steel
> needle flying off a 5000RPM 8" diameter wire brush?
>
> scott
Maximum 8" diam x pi x5000 /60/12 = 174 fps
The diameter of the hub is MUCH smaller than that.
Consider a mass , <1 gram.
What's it going to penetrate assuming it is flying in a perfectly linear
fashion? (Of course the eye-ball could possibly be bothered by something
like that, hence the face shield.) What are the odds of it flying off in
one's direction as opposed to the other 359 degrees on the compass?
I can't believe I'm writing all this bullshit.
My apologies.
*G*
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Scott Lurndal) wrote:
[major snippage]
> (If I've done my calcs correctly, 100mph
> equates to 146 fps, so that 174 fps is pretty damn fast (circa 118mph)).
>
> The hub on a 8" wire brush would be circa 5.5-6" in diameter (my 6" brush
> has a 3.5" hub). Call it 130fps still in the 90+mph range
yabbut, yabbut...there is hardly any mass. Where is the energy to
penetrate anything going to come from?
At the risk of beating this to death, I remain
sincerely yours
Rob
*grinning*
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] wrote:
> but you can bet that the clearance plate will be REAL clean.
>
> martin caskey
> millers island, maryland
>
>
> Roy Smith wrote:
> > John Moorhead <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >Folks -
> ...
>
> > >I got to thinking, could I mount the wire wheel on the tablesaw
> arbor, with
> > >an appropriate zero or nearly zero clearance plate...
> ...
> > I'm not sure about the zero clearance plate. Wires tend to spread,
> > and what looked like sufficient clearance during setup may not be
> when
> > you get going.
>
Could a wire wheel in a TS be any less safe than those moulding
cutters.. you know the ones...with that windy humming sound...
With the safety precautions mentioned previously, I really see nothing
wrong with the concept. You can even set the depth of 'cut'. Age a
little, age a lot.
And yet.....why does it 'feel' wrong?
They're kinda furry looking.. like a hairbrush...how could that hurt any
one?
Rob
JOAT -
I am using reclaimed wood, it just isn't "old" yet... as for the pros and
cons of distressing the wood, as with any finish, is subjective. I did one
small mock-up of the box with smooth sides, and another with the textured
sides with the wire wheel. I liked it, and that's good enough for me.
Redwood is *so* soft anyway, that a fingerprint nearly dents it, so I am
beating it to the punch.
As for the earlier post about sandblasting, my compressor isn't big enough
to run one and rental is nearly $150 a day....
John Moorhead
Sat, Dec 11, 2004, 1:48am (EST+5) [email protected]
(John=A0Moorhead) says:
<snip> As for the earlier post about sandblasting, my compressor isn't
big enough to run one and rental is nearly $150 a day....
Oh, I don't know. You just want to "beat up" the wood a bit, and,
as you say, redwood is pretty soft, so it shouldn't take a lot of
pressure.
I'm thinking you could make something pretty easy. All you want to
do is pick up some sand and blow it on to the wood. A couple of bent
piects of tubing should do that. Just stick the pickup end into a can
of sand, and reuse the sand. Or, you could get one of those el cheapo
little sand blaster nozzles for just a few bux.
Hmmm. Or set a vacuum to blow instead of suck. Stick a piece of
tubing over the end of the hose, with a hoe in it, then pour sand in the
hole.
Or, just find a sandbox, with a bunch of kids in it, and let them
play with the wood for a day.
JOAT
Remember: Nova is Avon, spelled backwards.
On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 23:21:59 GMT, [email protected] (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:
>Dunno - what is the tangential velocity of an inch long steel
>needle flying off a 5000RPM 8" diameter wire brush?
Less than it is flying off my angle grinder wire brushes. Admittedly
they _do_ penetrate flesh. So long as the shaft speed doesn't exceed
rated wheel speed, then flung bristles aren't the problem.
I wouldn't use a wire wheel in a table saw, simply because it's an
awkward arrangement. When I use a wire wheel I like to have it
directly under my hand, not reaching over a couple of feet towards it.
Using it in a table saw would make it impossible to control the
downward force properly - unlike a sawblade a wire brush's force is
almost entirely tangential from the top surface, not the lower edge,
and so this is almost guaranteed to start throwing timber at you.
Makita make a tool specificallty for aging timber like this. It's a
large, wide, handheld drum / brush sander.
--
Smert' spamionam
I just can't fathom myself putting an outward expanding wire wheel down into
my prissy TS.
Searcher1
"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Searcher" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> Before you start could you set up a video cam, Oh Just in case of course.
>> My opinion: Those wire wheels come apart awfully damn fast, I am
>> constantly
>> cleaning up wire shards after using my bench grinder w/wire wheel. I do
>> have
>> an angle grinder that has a wire wheel attachement with it, maybe that
>> would
>> work for you. It's much safer. Got it at Martha Sears for about 30 bucks.
>
> How can a wire wheel in an (hand-held ?) angle grinder be safer than
> in a table saw?
>
> --
> Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
> mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
> Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
> CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 12:41:32 -0500, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote:
>That Sears cup brush totally wore away.
Yeah, they do that. These days I'm _very_ fussy about the brand of
wire wheel I use on the angle grinder. I recently heard
www.ohiobrush.com very highly recommended over in the welding ng.
For aging boards, I'd definitely use a hand-held grinder and move it
over the board. I wouldn't think of using it in a tablesaw - it's just
the wrong way to bring the two components together.
I'd also be inclined not to age the boards, but to make up the carcase
and then age that.
--
Smert' spamionam
>
>Could a wire wheel in a TS be any less safe than those moulding
>cutters.. you know the ones...with that windy humming sound...
>With the safety precautions mentioned previously, I really see nothing
>wrong with the concept. You can even set the depth of 'cut'. Age a
>little, age a lot.
>
>And yet.....why does it 'feel' wrong?
Dunno - what is the tangential velocity of an inch long steel
needle flying off a 5000RPM 8" diameter wire brush?
scott
"Searcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:s_kud.2373$Zn6.1240@trnddc08...
>
> Before you start could you set up a video cam, Oh Just in case of course.
> My opinion: Those wire wheels come apart awfully damn fast, I am
constantly
> cleaning up wire shards after using my bench grinder w/wire wheel. I do
have
> an angle grinder that has a wire wheel attachement with it, maybe that
would
> work for you. It's much safer. Got it at Martha Sears for about 30 bucks.
> Good luck and keep that camera rolling cause its all real TV
>
Just a word of caution.
I bought a sears angle grinder and a cup wire brush to clean up some metal.
It was a small job. Just smooth off some surface discoloration. Just enough
to make a dull surface shiny again, Not heavy rust or anything.
That Sears cup brush totally wore away. It not only threw bristles all over
the place but the bristles themselves wore down to the nub. I have used
makita before. They lasted at least twenty time longer than the Sears crap.
I paid $15 for a wire cup brush and it wore out completely in less than an
hour. My old makita brushes literally lasted for years and years of
occaisional use. I would say at least 60 hours. And they were still good for
many more hours.
I got the Sears angle grinder on a closeout and got a good price. I did not
expect to use it that much. I didn't know that I was going to pay far more
for supplies.
And the Sears angle grinder was harder to hold and control than the makita.
You get what you pay for. Not just in the original tool, but in the supplies
as well.
Before you start could you set up a video cam, Oh Just in case of course.
My opinion: Those wire wheels come apart awfully damn fast, I am constantly
cleaning up wire shards after using my bench grinder w/wire wheel. I do have
an angle grinder that has a wire wheel attachement with it, maybe that would
work for you. It's much safer. Got it at Martha Sears for about 30 bucks.
Good luck and keep that camera rolling cause its all real TV
RICH
aka Searcher1
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "John
> Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>Folks -
>>
>>Santa's elf needs to distress some redwood for keepsake boxes, and doing
>>it
>>with a wire wheel mounted on the lathe headstock to "sandblast" it seemed
>>like a good idea... but there are some hazards..
>
> That's a candidate for the "Understatement of the Week" award. :-)
>>
>>I got to thinking, could I mount the wire wheel on the tablesaw arbor,
>>with
>>an appropriate zero or nearly zero clearance plate and "rip" my lengths of
>>stock with the wheel projecting say, 1/4" above the table? I have board
>>buddies to use for hold downs and I think I'd get a more consistent
>>texture
>>on the boards.
>
> Sounds a *lot* safer than using a lathe.
>>
>>If the wheel is covered by the board, I'm using board buddies to hold the
>>board firmly, and am wearing safety equipment, what might I be missing,
>>other than the grey matter that I've been after for years?
>
> You didn't mention push blocks. I don't think I'd want my hands too close
> to
> that. Roll up your sleeves, too, and stand off to the side.
>
> Make sure to blow the trunnions and adjusting mechanisms clean with
> compressed
> air after you're finished. Those wire wheels tend to lose bristles at an
> alarming rate.
>>
>>The wheel is rated for 6000 rpm, the arbor runs about 4,000. Does this
>>seem
>>like an okay idea or will my last words be "hey y'all, watch this!"?
>
> Or maybe, "Here, hold my beer." :-)
>
> Sounds ok to me, given enough safety precautions.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>
> Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
> by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
> You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
>
>
"Searcher" <[email protected]> writes:
> Before you start could you set up a video cam, Oh Just in case of course.
> My opinion: Those wire wheels come apart awfully damn fast, I am constantly
> cleaning up wire shards after using my bench grinder w/wire wheel. I do have
> an angle grinder that has a wire wheel attachement with it, maybe that would
> work for you. It's much safer. Got it at Martha Sears for about 30 bucks.
How can a wire wheel in an (hand-held ?) angle grinder be safer than
in a table saw?
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23