What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be m=
ost relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide.
I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off.=
.. I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I want=
to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gav=
e it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the=
rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
On Oct 11, 1:29=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be=
most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide.
>
> I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some of=
f... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
>
> It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I wa=
nt to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I g=
ave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down t=
he rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
In SE Kansas I have a source selling it for $1.75/BF. He is usually
limited and it is not of the stellar grain quality I have seen at
other places. At other western MO dealers I see it in the $4 range
and, again, not in large quantity.
On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 10:27:17 AM UTC-7, Jim Weisgram wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 11:29:23 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" <bwx200@ya=
hoo.com> wrote: >What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West=
coast would be most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide. > >I have s=
ome huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I nee=
d the space sooner than I can consume the wood. > >It is not top notch stuf=
f, some knots and some checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2=
S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM j=
ointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then st=
art surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough. I don't know this for cer=
tain, but I think s2s wood is normally planed, not jointed, on both faces. =
I don't think I would bother jointing wood until just before I was going to=
use it in a project.
Yes, I am of the same impression but I also believe they do what they call =
skip planing with a two sided planer and the feed rollers are farther away =
and you don't have as much effect of pushing the board flat to a table.
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 1:03:29 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
> On 10/11/2012 1:29 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > What is anybody paying=
for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be most relevant. 8 footer=
s mostly 6+ inches wide. > > I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and=
might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner than I can consume =
the wood. > > It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in th=
e stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 fo=
oters so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually =
break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather se=
ll it rough. > Use a 12" wide piece of 8' long 3/4" plywood as a rip sled o=
n your TS, clamp the cherry to the sled and rip straight one edge of the ch=
erry. Or as i do, rip straight with a track saw.
No prob doing the edge. The difficulty is making the first face flat on the=
jointer.=20
I learned proper method for squaring up rough lumber is first joint one fac=
e to make flat, joint one edge by putting flattened face against fence so y=
ou have face and egde at 90, plane other face in planer so now 3 sides corr=
ect, rip to width for 4th edge.=20
Easier done with a 2 or 3 foot piece than an 8 footer for that first face.
On 10/11/2012 1:29 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide.
>
> I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
>
> It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
>
Use a 12" wide piece of 8' long 3/4" plywood as a rip sled on your TS,
clamp the cherry to the sled and rip straight one edge of the cherry.
Or as i do, rip straight with a track saw.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would
> be most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide.
>
> I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some
> off... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
>
> It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I
> want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers
> so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually
> break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood)
> rather sell it rough.
Here in San Diego it goes for $8.50 rough at the most expensive source.
Hope this helps.
Steve
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 11:29:23 AM UTC-7, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be=
most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide. I have some huge stacks in=
the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner=
than I can consume the wood. It is not top notch stuff, some knots and som=
e checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I r=
arely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not=
fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would =
(wood) rather sell it rough.
Thanks all. This adds some sanity. The local Rockler had some OK looking 4/=
4 in 5 to 8" widths by 8 feet. They had the boards marked with bf and total=
price. It seemed expensive so I asked what was the price per bf. They were=
asking $12 per bf!!!
The $7-$8 range is more in line with what I was seeing a few years back whe=
n I was buying more wood than I do nowdays.=20
I spoke with my local Woodcraft guy and he is going to let me put some in h=
is rack on consignment and we'll work out some equitable price and deal. I =
am thinking maybe $5 per bf and and seeing if he'll give me $3. I will be m=
ore than doubling my original cost so maybe not such a bad deal.
I think I will also put a recently finished little stickley nightstand next=
to the lumber as an example of what finished material looks like. Or maybe=
just a few short finished pieces.
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 11:29:23 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide.
>
>I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
>
>It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
I don't know this for certain, but I think s2s wood is normally
planed, not jointed, on both faces. I don't think I would bother
jointing wood until just before I was going to use it in a project.
On 10/11/2012 3:47 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Thursday, October 11, 2012 1:03:29 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
>> On 10/11/2012 1:29 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide. > > I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood. > > It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough. > Use a 12" wide piece of 8' long 3/4" plywood as a rip sled on your TS, clamp the cherry to the sled and rip straight one edge of the cherry. Or as i do, rip straight with a track saw.
>
> No prob doing the edge. The difficulty is making the first face flat on the jointer.
O(K, sorry, I must have misunderstood.
>
> I learned proper method for squaring up rough lumber is first joint one face to make flat, joint one edge by putting flattened face against fence so you have face and egde at 90, plane other face in planer so now 3 sides correct, rip to width for 4th edge.
Yeah me too. ;~) And I learned to never, never ever use the jointer to
clean up a final cut. When I was a Kid I never quite understood the
logic. Many years ago I finally realized that it is extremely difficult
to produce a board of "exact" width if you use a jointer to produce both
finished edges.
> Easier done with a 2 or 3 foot piece than an 8 footer for that first face.
>
Absolutely