We've been needing pull-out shelves for pots and pans, well, since I
installed the cabinets a dozen or so years ago. And I could use a
relatively simple woodworking project after I'm finally done with what
I'm working on now.
The ones in your kitchen refresh pictures look like they'd fit the bill
nicely. I'm wondering what blunders you might be able to help me steer
clear of.
From what I can see in the pictures, it looks like the sliding shelves
are maybe 1/2" ply bottoms with some sort of solid wood sides (maple?).
How did you fasten the sides to the bottom, and to each other? I can
imagine a few ways to do it. And do you have a recommended source for
the slides?
Greg - I have put this type of storage solution in three kitchens, all of t=
he hardware from Lowe's. I can't take credit for it; when I was working on=
a kitchen my client found these storage baskets. She liked them, but had =
only seen them at IKEA or some place like that, and they were literally 2 1=
/2 to 3 times more. When she saw them at Lowe's, she brought a bunch of th=
em home and had me install the ones she liked. She liked all of them.
http://www.lowes.com/Search=3Dcabinet+basket?storeId=3D10151&langId=3D-1&ca=
talogId=3D10051&N=3D0&newSearch=3Dtrue&Ntt=3Dcabinet+basket#!
or=20
http://goo.gl/hXay4o
I suggested them to other clients as I was working and they bought a few se=
ts and they loved them as well. They are easy to put in, and the models I =
installed came with a template. to locate the screw correctly. They take a=
small amount of fiddling to get them right, but when they are in correctly=
they are a great add on to the cabinets that really, truly increase their =
storage space and utility value.
Best of all, they work! They are sturdy, and when installed correctly the =
trays, shelves and baskets all slide smoothly when loaded.
And they aren't that much more than the purpose made hardware.
Robert
On 12/11/2014 10:37 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> Would that need to be adjusted to clear the hinge mechanisms? I have a
> feeling that 1/2" clearance on each side might be tight with the typical
> Blum-style hinges we have.
Drill the center of your 35mm door hinge holes for the hinge cup at
least 4 1/2" from the top and bottom door edges.
Use a "zero clearance" door hinge so that the door opens to the outside
of the face frame or cabinet side.
I use Salice "Excen-Three" Hinges for this purpose on face frame cabs.
They are expensive at most retail outlets, unless you buy them at a
cabinetmaker's price, +/- $7/pair at Rockler, versus +/- $1.50/pair, at
a place like Cornerstone Hardware that caters to the trades here in Houston.
> I'm wondering if I might want to make the
> backs taller, to prevent things from falling off the back of the shelf.
Make'm like you want, but never had a problem with anything falling off
using the dimensions in the drawing; and it was a question I asked many
customers before I just shut up and quit worrying. ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 12/10/2014 9:12 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> The ones in your kitchen refresh pictures look like they'd fit the bill
> nicely. I'm wondering what blunders you might be able to help me steer
> clear of.
For some reason women love these damned things and although I find them
to be a boring pain in the ass to make and install, it seems I'm always
being forced to add them to kitchens ... women apparently do not require
anything but drums, or something to beat on, to communicate with each
other, whether they are acquainted each other or not.
Use at least 100lb rated, full extension, drawer slides.
I use KV8400's (100lb) for the smaller, and KV8800s (200lb) for the wider.
For the 8400's, make your sliding shelves 1" less in width than the
cabinet opening.
For the 8800's, make your sliding shelves 1 1/2" less in width than the
cabinet opening.
I generally use 22" length where I can.
> From what I can see in the pictures, it looks like the sliding shelves
> are maybe 1/2" ply bottoms with some sort of solid wood sides (maple?).
3/4" plywood bottoms, 3/4 sides using any appropriate hardwood:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#6091600456232551442
> How did you fasten the sides to the bottom, and to each other? I can
> imagine a few ways to do it. And do you have a recommended source for
> the slides?
Finish nails and glue. No need to get fancy as the drawer slides will
cover up any nails holes.
There are only shelves on drawer slides, not drawers, Leon! <g,d & r>
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> We've been needing pull-out shelves for pots and pans, well, since I
> installed the cabinets a dozen or so years ago. And I could use a
> relatively simple woodworking project after I'm finally done with what
> I'm working on now.
>
> The ones in your kitchen refresh pictures look like they'd fit the bill
> nicely. I'm wondering what blunders you might be able to help me steer
> clear of.
>
> From what I can see in the pictures, it looks like the sliding shelves
> are maybe 1/2" ply bottoms with some sort of solid wood sides (maple?).
> How did you fasten the sides to the bottom, and to each other? I can
> imagine a few ways to do it. And do you have a recommended source for
> the slides?
I made a bunch - eight - of them when I made our kitchen. They are used
for storing dishes in some of the lower cabinets, much handier than on
shelves in the upper ones.
Bottoms are 3/4 mel board, verticals are butternut. Both were chosen
because that's what was used for the boxes, face frames and doors in the
rest of the kitchen.
They are really just big shallow drawers and you build them in whatever
way you like to build drawers. In my case, that is a front on sliding
dovetail pins on the sides, back with a tongue into a groove on the sides
and bottoms with a 3/8 tongue into grooves all around. All hooked together
with yellow glue.
The slides are the HD/Lowes cheapo versions...the kind with an acetal
roller, not ball bearing, 3/4 extension, around $6.00 per pair.
Everything in the lower cabinets pulls out...some are drawers, some are
pullouts; some are behind doors (like the dish trays above), some are not.
For most of the others I used KV full extension ball bearing slides. I
like the cheap ones just as well.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 12/10/2014 9:12 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> We've been needing pull-out shelves for pots and pans, well, since I
> installed the cabinets a dozen or so years ago. And I could use a
> relatively simple woodworking project after I'm finally done with what
> I'm working on now.
>
> The ones in your kitchen refresh pictures look like they'd fit the bill
> nicely. I'm wondering what blunders you might be able to help me steer
> clear of.
>
> From what I can see in the pictures, it looks like the sliding shelves
> are maybe 1/2" ply bottoms with some sort of solid wood sides (maple?).
> How did you fasten the sides to the bottom, and to each other? I can
> imagine a few ways to do it. And do you have a recommended source for
> the slides?
For pullout lower shelves where don't want to sacrifice any more height
than the bare minimum and loading isn't critical I've used the KV
ball-bearing glides but mounted them flat instead of vertical
underneath. I'm still in dark ages and my cell doesn't have a camera so
uploadable pictures are more of a pita but I'll try to take a shot of
the desk here with that as the slide out for the printer/copier...works
quite nicely for the purpose...
I'm about to begin the same kind of thing for our kitchen cabinets --
did the counter top replacement of original Formica from late 70s with
solid surface a couple of years ago and have replaced drawer slides;
next will be new doors and drawer fronts to replace the slab-type--mom
wanted "plain" so that's what she got :) back then-- Figure I'll do the
same thing there for the bottom pans. These are all stick-built in
place and nothing is a standard width. For the disk I didn't use sides
on the pullout and not sure for pans and such will on the kitchen
cabinets, either; big stuff like that can't go anywhere, anyway so the
drawers don't really make any benefit.
Dad and I built a full lazy susan into the corner cabinet with the
90-deg pie cutout for the door access using the thrust bearings from a
one-way plow disc. They'll support several hundred pounds; you can
stand on a shelf w/o it giving... :) After almost 40 yr now it still
functions as smoothly as ever...
The kitchen is tiny; the dishwasher replacement would be a good thing
for storage room but don't think Lynda will give it up willingly. There
is a large pantry that has storage but it needs a full reorgainzation
and cabinetry that is more functional so that's a longer-term goal...
Anyway, this got off-track; the idea was to post the thought of turning
the slides flat for the clearance...
--
On 12/11/2014 10:28 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 12/10/2014 9:12 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>> The ones in your kitchen refresh pictures look like they'd fit the bill
>> nicely. I'm wondering what blunders you might be able to help me steer
>> clear of.
>
> For some reason women love these damned things and although I find them
> to be a boring pain in the ass to make and install, it seems I'm always
> being forced to add them to kitchens ... women apparently do not require
> anything but drums, or something to beat on, to communicate with each
> other, whether they are acquainted each other or not.
As I imagine is common, we've got lots of cookware that is seldom used
because it's in the back of the shelves, blocked in by other stuff. In
addition, I was never very flexible, and that hasn't improved with age.
So unless there's a sack of Krugerrands back there, I'm not contorting
myself to get to the back of the bottom shelves.
Even then I'd probably get my daughter to retrieve it.
>
> Use at least 100lb rated, full extension, drawer slides.
>
> I use KV8400's (100lb) for the smaller, and KV8800s (200lb) for the wider.
>
> For the 8400's, make your sliding shelves 1" less in width than the
> cabinet opening.
>
> For the 8800's, make your sliding shelves 1 1/2" less in width than the
> cabinet opening.
>
Would that need to be adjusted to clear the hinge mechanisms? I have a
feeling that 1/2" clearance on each side might be tight with the typical
Blum-style hinges we have.
> I generally use 22" length where I can.
>
>> From what I can see in the pictures, it looks like the sliding shelves
>> are maybe 1/2" ply bottoms with some sort of solid wood sides (maple?).
>
> 3/4" plywood bottoms, 3/4 sides using any appropriate hardwood:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#6091600456232551442
>
>
>> How did you fasten the sides to the bottom, and to each other? I can
>> imagine a few ways to do it. And do you have a recommended source for
>> the slides?
>
> Finish nails and glue. No need to get fancy as the drawer slides will
> cover up any nails holes.
I'm wondering if I might want to make the backs taller, to prevent
things from falling off the back of the shelf.
> There are only shelves on drawer slides, not drawers, Leon! <g,d & r>
Don't worry, I wasn't considering dovetails.
>