True 1/4" Plywood - From Drawer Bottoms Come Zero Clearance Inserts

On Sunday, January 25, 2015 at 10:54:25 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 1/25/2015 8:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > As I was demo'ing the old drawers from my kitchen, I found this sticker=
on the bottom of one of them:
> >
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/100463384764110468606/2015Kitchen?authkey=
=3DGv1sRgCLHIn93zr-n3Ow#6108462600246046802
> >
> > The plywood is a true 1/4" and made of hardwoods. I did a Google search=
on Weldwood Plywood and found this brochure from 1944:
> >
> > https://archive.org/details/BeautifulWoodForBeautifulHomes--WithWeldwoo=
dPlywood1944
>=20
> LOL, that is where 1/4" plywood got its name, 1/4".
>=20
>=20
> >
> > That's a blast from beyond my past!
> >
> > I've already started to recycle the panels. Since I've got a bunch of g=
rooves to cut in 3/4" stock for my kitchen doors, I made a zero clearance i=
nsert for my table saw. The extra blank in the photo will be used to make a=
n insert for my dado blade.
> >
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/100463384764110468606/2015Kitchen?authkey=
=3DGv1sRgCLHIn93zr-n3Ow#6108463293154716578
> >
> > The original metal insert uses a screw at the front and a "spring tab" =
at the rear to hold it secure to the table. I chose to drill and tap the re=
ar ledge that the insert sits on and use screws to secure both the front an=
d rear of the plywood insert(s). My table saw has a 3/8" ledge all around t=
he insert opening so I don't expect any sag in the insert. If I notice any,=
I'll laminate another piece onto the bottom of it to stiffen it up.
> >
> I might suggest that you put some short wood screws into the bottom of=20
> the inserts, in the same locations as the setscrews in the steel plate,=
=20
> in the event your new inserts need a touch of tweaking to be even with=20
> the table top.

Thanks for the suggestion, but the plywood was actually just slightly proud=
of the table top and had to be sanded to be brought level with the table t=
op. Besides being made of hardwoods, it also sits flat on the perimeter she=
lf so it's very well supported, thus no sag.

On 1/25/2015 8:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> As I was demo'ing the old drawers from my kitchen, I found this sticker on the bottom of one of them:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/100463384764110468606/2015Kitchen?authkey=Gv1sRgCLHIn93zr-n3Ow#6108462600246046802
>
> The plywood is a true 1/4" and made of hardwoods. I did a Google search on Weldwood Plywood and found this brochure from 1944:
>
> https://archive.org/details/BeautifulWoodForBeautifulHomes--WithWeldwoodPlywood1944

LOL, that is where 1/4" plywood got its name, 1/4".




>
> That's a blast from beyond my past!
>
> I've already started to recycle the panels. Since I've got a bunch of grooves to cut in 3/4" stock for my kitchen doors, I made a zero clearance insert for my table saw. The extra blank in the photo will be used to make an insert for my dado blade.
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/100463384764110468606/2015Kitchen?authkey=Gv1sRgCLHIn93zr-n3Ow#6108463293154716578
>
> The original metal insert uses a screw at the front and a "spring tab" at the rear to hold it secure to the table. I chose to drill and tap the rear ledge that the insert sits on and use screws to secure both the front and rear of the plywood insert(s). My table saw has a 3/8" ledge all around the insert opening so I don't expect any sag in the insert. If I notice any, I'll laminate another piece onto the bottom of it to stiffen it up.
>
I might suggest that you put some short wood screws into the bottom of
the inserts, in the same locations as the setscrews in the steel plate,
in the event your new inserts need a touch of tweaking to be even with
the table top.

On 1/26/15, 1:02 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, January 25, 2015 at 10:54:25 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

>> I might suggest that you put some short wood screws into the bottom of
>> the inserts, in the same locations as the setscrews in the steel plate,
>> in the event your new inserts need a touch of tweaking to be even with
>> the table top.
>
> Thanks for the suggestion, but the plywood was actually just slightly proud of the table top and had to be sanded to be brought level with the table top. Besides being made of hardwoods, it also sits flat on the perimeter shelf so it's very well supported, thus no sag.
>

So what you really need is "1/4" plywood manufactured recently, slightly
thinner than 1/4" 8^)

I do a fair amount of wood salvaging from old cabinets and furniture and
a find like yours makes it all worthwhile. At least you have the
incentive to use it, I just hoard it.

-BR

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