I've never made a food idem before, so I've never really looked into this, I
have always been told that you use mineral oil on cutting boards, I was
recently told that butcher block/spoon oil lasts longer, and someone today
told me that there the same thing, if there not is there is diff in
preformace? anyone know the answer?
Hi Richard,
I am still using mineral oil. It is so easy to reapply. I have used a butcher
block product (actually a wax) which looked good but took a while to apply and
spread evenly. As to longevity, I did not notice a difference. JG
Richard Clements wrote:
> I've never made a food idem before, so I've never really looked into this, I
> have always been told that you use mineral oil on cutting boards, I was
> recently told that butcher block/spoon oil lasts longer, and someone today
> told me that there the same thing, if there not is there is diff in
> preformace? anyone know the answer?
Could be. But you don't use either if you want best results. Mineral oil
doesn't cure, so it sequesters oil-soluble inorganic soil and oil-loving
organic creatures (like bacteria) from the depredations of detergents.
Until, of course, the detergent finally emulsifies all the oil, at which
point the piece "looks dull" and needs to be reoiled....
Go bare or go cure.
"Richard Clements" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've never made a food idem before, so I've never really looked into this,
I
> have always been told that you use mineral oil on cutting boards, I was
> recently told that butcher block/spoon oil lasts longer, and someone today
> told me that there the same thing, if there not is there is diff in
> preformace? anyone know the answer?
You've got a bad choice to make. It's not good policy at all to use the
same board or area for meat prep and then for food which will not be cooked.
Cross-contamination is a certainty.
I would have boards for trimming and cutting meat made up to place on areas
of the counter where I can wipe with bleach or detergent and feel certain
they were not hiding just out of reach. Use the open area to prepare foods
which will not be cooked. I would go a drying (curing) oil to help shed
moisture, though it will darken the counter a bit. Check walnut oil as a
possibility, or one of the oil/wax mixes. Keep some bleach, cut 10:1 in a
spray bottle nearby for wiping.
I would also make sure I could replace the entire area relatively easily in
case someone left a glass too cold or a pot too hot on it to discolor it.
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Could be. But you don't use either if you want best results. Mineral
oil
> > doesn't cure, so it sequesters oil-soluble inorganic soil and oil-loving
> > organic creatures (like bacteria) from the depredations of detergents.
> > Until, of course, the detergent finally emulsifies all the oil, at which
> > point the piece "looks dull" and needs to be reoiled....
> >
> > Go bare or go cure.
>
> George - I have a vested interest in this topic as about 18 sf of my
counter
> space is being left au natural for a mineral oil treatment rather than
poly.
> This 18 sf area is for food prep. Everyone else just about everywhere has
> said that some kind of oil is the best treatment for such a use. I have a
> feeling that either way (bare or mineral oil) has pluses and minuses. Is
it
> possible that the wood is protected from moisture and possible
delamination
> better with mineral oil than with nothing? Maybe this is enough reason to
> go with the oil if so.
>
> dwhite
>
>
> >
> > "Richard Clements" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I've never made a food idem before, so I've never really looked into
> this,
> > I
> > > have always been told that you use mineral oil on cutting boards, I
was
> > > recently told that butcher block/spoon oil lasts longer, and someone
> today
> > > told me that there the same thing, if there not is there is diff in
> > > preformace? anyone know the answer?
> >
> >
>
>
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You've got a bad choice to make. It's not good policy at all to use the
> same board or area for meat prep and then for food which will not be
cooked.
> Cross-contamination is a certainty.
Well, I didn't get into details but strictly speaking this isn't a prep
table. There won't be any uncooked meat near this counter... all that is in
the back kitchen area. The use here is mainly for sandwich prep. The only
thing that will typically contact the board is rolls and subs, probably some
produce here and there. I'm probably going to poly the counter under the
slicer as there won't be any knife work there and the poly will repel any
juices you get typically from roast beef in the slicer. On the unfinished
part, I will have sandwiches cut and frill picked before they go onto a
catering tray, so that is where some knife marks can come into play. It is
hard rock maple so I'm told it will hold up.
> I would go a drying (curing) oil to help shed
> moisture, though it will darken the counter a bit. Check walnut oil as a
> possibility, or one of the oil/wax mixes. Keep some bleach, cut 10:1 in a
> spray bottle nearby for wiping.
I probably need some darkening as it would be nice for the unfinished part
to somewhat match the parts with poly, which turn a bit yellow. I'll have
to check into the drying oils and see.
> I would also make sure I could replace the entire area relatively easily
in
> case someone left a glass too cold or a pot too hot on it to discolor it.
That's not going to happen with this countertop. The main counter is 3'
wide and 13' long. It ain't goin' nowhere! The worn in rustic look is
going to have to do in the unfinished section.
thanks again,
dwhite
>
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Could be. But you don't use either if you want best results. Mineral
> oil
> > > doesn't cure, so it sequesters oil-soluble inorganic soil and
oil-loving
> > > organic creatures (like bacteria) from the depredations of detergents.
> > > Until, of course, the detergent finally emulsifies all the oil, at
which
> > > point the piece "looks dull" and needs to be reoiled....
> > >
> > > Go bare or go cure.
> >
> > George - I have a vested interest in this topic as about 18 sf of my
> counter
> > space is being left au natural for a mineral oil treatment rather than
> poly.
> > This 18 sf area is for food prep. Everyone else just about everywhere
has
> > said that some kind of oil is the best treatment for such a use. I have
a
> > feeling that either way (bare or mineral oil) has pluses and minuses.
Is
> it
> > possible that the wood is protected from moisture and possible
> delamination
> > better with mineral oil than with nothing? Maybe this is enough reason
to
> > go with the oil if so.
> >
> > dwhite
> >
> >
> > >
> > > "Richard Clements" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > I've never made a food idem before, so I've never really looked into
> > this,
> > > I
> > > > have always been told that you use mineral oil on cutting boards, I
> was
> > > > recently told that butcher block/spoon oil lasts longer, and someone
> > today
> > > > told me that there the same thing, if there not is there is diff in
> > > > preformace? anyone know the answer?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Could be. But you don't use either if you want best results. Mineral oil
> doesn't cure, so it sequesters oil-soluble inorganic soil and oil-loving
> organic creatures (like bacteria) from the depredations of detergents.
> Until, of course, the detergent finally emulsifies all the oil, at which
> point the piece "looks dull" and needs to be reoiled....
>
> Go bare or go cure.
George - I have a vested interest in this topic as about 18 sf of my counter
space is being left au natural for a mineral oil treatment rather than poly.
This 18 sf area is for food prep. Everyone else just about everywhere has
said that some kind of oil is the best treatment for such a use. I have a
feeling that either way (bare or mineral oil) has pluses and minuses. Is it
possible that the wood is protected from moisture and possible delamination
better with mineral oil than with nothing? Maybe this is enough reason to
go with the oil if so.
dwhite
>
> "Richard Clements" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've never made a food idem before, so I've never really looked into
this,
> I
> > have always been told that you use mineral oil on cutting boards, I was
> > recently told that butcher block/spoon oil lasts longer, and someone
today
> > told me that there the same thing, if there not is there is diff in
> > preformace? anyone know the answer?
>
>